Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
2018 JD 3032E
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New 3-Series Owner here. Been mostly lurking on GTT, reading posts and learning what I can. I purchased a bone stock 2018 3032E with 121 hours, a FEL and bush-hog a few months ago. The tractor was purchased as a repo, which likely means it wasn't well maintained, but who knows? It appears to be in great shape, from what I can tell. I'm handy with autos, but never owned a diesel or a tractor. I've used this site to answer questions and fill in the knowledge gaps. I genuinely appreciate everyone's advice. Some lessons-learned thus far:
  1. Since it was a repo, it did not come with anything other than a title and a key (no manual, service records, etc). I purchased an Operators Manual and some spare keys. After reading it cover to cover, I made a plan and started a worksheet to keep track of recommended service intervals.
  2. First, I did a full service on all the fluids and filters (oil, transmission, fuel & air filters, front axle fluid, coolant and lubrication points). It looked like the factory filters were all still in place, so no previous service had been attempted. It was a great exercise and helped to familiarize me with the machine. I also learned that there are idiosyncrasies with these tractors. Just because the manual states a part number fits my tractor doesn't mean its gonna fit my tractor, particularly where the Oil and Fuel filters are concerned.
  3. The trans/hydraulic fluid that came out of the tractor had a greenish tinge to it, unlike the new oil which was clear and golden in color. Should I be worried?
  4. Now, I'm fixing some JD weaknesses and vulnerabilities to make this thing safe to operate, primarily since I live on top of a mountain and will rarely be on perfectly flat, level ground. It is amazing to me that JD sells these things as safe and ready to use when according to my research and limited time in the seat, they clearly are not. It is my opinion that this tractor is dangerously tippy as it comes from the factory. The improvements I've made thus far include:
    1. I swapped out the front axle dipstick with a vented one. Not sure why JD doesn't rectify this at the factory.
    2. Ordered 4" wheel spacers for the back wheels to widen the stance.
    3. Once the spacers are on, I will fill the front and rear tires with beet juice to lower the center of gravity and add about 500lbs of rear ballast.
    4. I will flip the front wheels, using the greater offset for a wider stance.
    5. I purchased a ballast box.
    6. That's roughly $1,400 just to make this thing safe for use.
    7. Oh, and I purchased an 18' trailer to haul my Green Machine around along with safety chains and tensioners. That was another $4,400 but sadly, just the start of the investment needed to make this tractor ready to serve its intended purpose.
  5. Implements - I intend to use this tractor to clear 8 wooded, rocky and mostly level acres on top of a ridge, for a home and a 1 acre garden and to maintain a long, sometimes steeply inclined gravel driveway. The garden will be a special challenge since I'll need to remove all of the rocks and debris from the soil before attempting to till and plant. Investments made thus far:
    1. Wicked 55 Grapple, $2k
    2. 3rd Function Kit, $1k
    3. Stump Bucket, $600
    4. Chain hook plate for the FEL bucket $175
    5. Pallet Forks, $700
    6. Heavy Duty Landscape Rake, $1k
    7. Box blade, $1k
    8. Bolt on tooth bar for loader bucket, $300
    9. iMatch Quick Hitch and bushings, $480
    10. Maintenance Fluids, filters, lubricants, Lube Shuttle grease gun, etc: $300
    11. Rear tow bar kit $156 (incredibly, this was an optional item with this tractor)
    12. Tiller ?? (yet to be purchased)
  6. Wait times for orders has been incredible, due to materials shortages. The grapple and landscape rake both have 3 month ship times.
  7. To sum it up, I had no idea what I was getting into. I know this sounds like a rant, but it isn't, its more a reflection of my experiences with the learning curve. So far, it has been a financial black hole before I even put a single implement to the ground. I hope this thing pans out and proves to be useful! And, I hope I don't kill myself with this amazing machine. Since owning it, I've put 5 hours on the tach, mostly just driving it around the neighborhood and practicing with the joystick. I'm stunned by how much torque is generated by a 31hp motor.
  8. I welcome any advice, tips, and tricks for a noob operator. I intend to voraciously read the posts on this forum, be a sponge, learn all I can, and apply it while I'm in the "operator station". I'm particularly interested in learning how to use the PTO. Thanks in advance for your help and guidance! This site has been quite a blessing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,549 Posts
Sounds like a good plan! It is a black hole of stuff. It's fun though.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,105 Posts
to save money look at TITAN pallet forks. I have had mine 5 years no problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25,638 Posts
I applaud you in finding out all you have - especially the wheel spacers and ballast. You are correct in that these small tractors are quite dangerous on hilly ground.

I have only 2 suggestions -

When operating on steep hills always go straight up and down. Avoid going cross hill for anything. Even if it takes you a couple extra moves to do it.

And I am sure you know - ROPS up and seatbelt on always.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,331 Posts
On my tractor I start pto at as low an rpm as possible and once going bring it up to operating speed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
487 Posts
Rear tow bar kit $156 (incredibly, this was an optional item with this tractor)
Yeah I think the E series tractors come pretty stripped down. I think E stands for Economy??? at least that what most say.
You have done your research well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jimmy Walker

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Whoa! you jumped in with both feet! Welcome from NE Illinois
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jimmy Walker

·
Registered
Joined
·
480 Posts
Do not flip the front wheels with a loader installed. You will damage your front axle / seals (Too much end loading on the outer bearings. There is a caution about this in the owner's manual.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I swapped out the front axle dipstick with a vented one. Not sure why JD doesn't rectify this at the factory.
Can someone please explain this one to me?I’m particularly wondering how this might help tippiness/safety. Or maybe it doesn’t and I misunderstood.
 

·
Registered
2018 JD 3032E
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can someone please explain this one to me?I’m particularly wondering how this might help tippiness/safety. Or maybe it doesn’t and I misunderstood.
It is not a safety issue, but to avoid buildup of pressure in the axle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
390 Posts
Do not flip the front wheels with a loader installed. You will damage your front axle / seals (Too much end loading on the outer bearings. There is a caution about this in the owner's manual.

Jeff
Too add to this because the front axle pivots at the center the wider stance up front really wont help much with stability since it will allow the tractor to rotate a great deal most likely beyond the point of return in many conditions.

Also 500 pounds of rear ballast even with filled tires is not up to the required ballast for the loader. So when doing heavy loader work you will still want more rear ballast not sure the exact number but i would guess it would be more than my 2 series.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
390 Posts
For the PTO - Lube, make sure to keep everything lubed, the splines, the U-joints, and seperate the shaft and lube the shafts.

If you are having issues hooking the PTO shaft up here are things I have learned.
1. If you have a Mid-PTO then you can free spin the shaft by putting the PTO selector into the position opposite of the shaft you are hooking up. I.E. hooking up the rear put the selector to Mid this will allow you to rotate the rear pto shaft by hand.
2. If you are having issues sliding the shaft on check your angles, I have found that even a small change in angle make it so much easier. Usually having the shaft as level to the spline as possible is the easiest. For the rear I like to hook up the implement first then adjust the implement so the shaft is level with the PTO.
 
  • Like
Reactions: shyoung1

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
For the PTO - Lube, make sure to keep everything lubed, the splines, the U-joints, and seperate the shaft and lube the shafts.

If you are having issues hooking the PTO shaft up here are things I have learned.
1. If you have a Mid-PTO then you can free spin the shaft by putting the PTO selector into the position opposite of the shaft you are hooking up. I.E. hooking up the rear put the selector to Mid this will allow you to rotate the rear pto shaft by hand.
2. If you are having issues sliding the shaft on check your angles, I have found that even a small change in angle make it so much easier. Usually having the shaft as level to the spline as possible is the easiest. For the rear I like to hook up the implement first then adjust the implement so the shaft is level with the PTO.
I don't think the E has or can have the mid PTO but he can get telescoping draft arms.
IMG_1421.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
390 Posts
You are correct did not notice the "E".

Also NEVER get near the PTO shaft with the engine ON, always shut the engine down when messing around the PTO shaft. Too easy for it to accidentally engage and injury around that shaft happens before you can blink!
 

·
Registered
JD 3032E, + loader, ripper, road scraper, forks, Woodmaxx, 10-wheel disc, 12" auger
Joined
·
48 Posts
You have a really good tractor in the 3032E. We use ours a lot, and the disc is a great investment for clearing/mitigating tall grass and weeds out here for wildfire reduction. No fire hazard, like a mower. Fill the R4 tires with 2gallons antifreeze and water to the top of the rims with the tire filler adapter from Goodyear. 4 gallons antifreeze total. Then 15 lbs air pressure and there you are. I used the neighbors' gannon box and rippers for removing rocks, it worked OK for a shallow rip, and removed some tree roots, too. (making a 50' pad for a barn). We cleared the Manzanita by waiting until it had rained a lot, and bashed them out of the ground with the bucket 3' high and level, and floored it in 4wd-low range. The trees bashed out roots and all! Easy job. Sorry about the long post, but the 3032E really works for us. Good tractor.
 

·
Registered
2018 JD 3032E
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update! The wheel spacers are on and in taking the rear wheels off, I discovered they were already filled with fluid. It made the spacer add-on much more difficult but it’s done! I also added some bling to the bucket and a new shifter knob. First photo below is “before” and next is “after” with the wider stance.
791072
791073
791074
791075
791076
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top