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It's HEEEEEEEREEEEEE:bigthumb:

The new X739 package has arrived. After a myriad of delays - new driveway, retaining wall, and other infrastructure upgrades taking place at our home - the X739 has been delivered, and has clocked it's first hour and cut on what lawn is mowable. Some is still "in surgery", still awaiting landscape work, but for the 65ish% that is ready to mow, it has been, and it looks rather good.

Introducing the first vehicle allowed to drive up the new driveway:
 

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The first cut: I mowed one round at 3", then mowed again at 2 1/2 "against the grain" - the exact same path just in the opposite direction, and it looks pretty darn good.
 

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The accompaniments:

47" snowblower, and for those fall days when the valley pools more leaves than can be imagined, the 14bu MCS with Superior Products dump-from-seat collection unit.
 

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That lawn has made quite a comeback, having sustained a lot of damage from the prior winters' leaf packing, brought on from a Vegas Vacation of nine days where I fell behind the leaf work, then had a foot of snow sock it in. She's come a long way in two months, and this being only the third mow of the season - two with the push mower Honda, and now with the X739. We scraped the leaf cover in late March as best as we could, then just let her grow, not mowing at all until four weeks ago, then two weeks ago, and now today. We hope the new MCS setup will prevent another series of events like last fall - well, Vegas vacations excluded of course:bigbeer:
 

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I had some fun figuring out that you have to put it in park to start it, and that if you get up from the seat while it runs, it runs no more. LOL. The RIO didn't cause much issue though as I (mostly) didn't have to re-engage the PTO, although I did discover that just the slightest bump of the reverse prior to pushing the RIO would disengage. There's a few places where reverse is useful on my lawn layout, as well as just getting familiar as to how to traverse the lawn with the new beast.....

An absolute pleasure to operate, though - smooth, reassuring power in spades.
 

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The first cut: I mowed one round at 3", then mowed again at 2 1/2 "against the grain" - the exact same path just in the opposite direction, and it looks pretty darn good.
Looks very good. Congratulations on your tractor, they are great machines. You will be very happy with your new machine.

Welcome to GTT as well......:bigthumb:
 

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Make sure to hang some weight on the rear when using the snow blower and you may want to consider some weight for the front when using the collection system since its suspended from the rear mount. The 42# suitcase weights are very handy to put the right ballast in the best places.

I think 4 to 6 of the suitcase weights should get the job done for you. Pretty sure they have a quick mounting weight bar for the front and rear on which you can hang the weight. Having the weight helps eliminate the need for tire chains and it also helps to balance the machine and prevent too much stress on the front axle. If the "Build your Own" section of the website for your tractor, they should list the weight brackets and options............

Just ask should you have any questions, we have many members familiar with these machines and their use.
 

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The accompaniments:

47" snowblower, and for those fall days when the valley pools more leaves than can be imagined, the 14bu MCS with Superior Products dump-from-seat collection unit.
What is the serial number of your 47-inch snow blower? The reason I ask is that the design was changed on S/N 150001 and above to use a gearbox instead of the chain and sprockets which is a huge improvement. I'm surprised that someone who just purchased a new unit is still getting the old model.
 

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Very Nice, you'll love it.:bigthumb:
 

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What is the serial number of your 47-inch snow blower? The reason I ask is that the design was changed on S/N 150001 and above to use a gearbox instead of the chain and sprockets which is a huge improvement. I'm surprised that someone who just purchased a new unit is still getting the old model.
I was surprised to see the same thing.......wonder if the dealer doesn't sell many snow blowers and had this in stock.......and made the price right to move it.......?!?!
 

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What is the serial number of your 47-inch snow blower? The reason I ask is that the design was changed on S/N 150001 and above to use a gearbox instead of the chain and sprockets which is a huge improvement. I'm surprised that someone who just purchased a new unit is still getting the old model.
The serial number appears much more complex than you listed, but the DOM (date of manufacture) on the lower right is listed as 110818 (November 08, 2018). Last six digits on the serial are 171642.
 

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What is the serial number of your 47-inch snow blower? The reason I ask is that the design was changed on S/N 150001 and above to use a gearbox instead of the chain and sprockets which is a huge improvement. I'm surprised that someone who just purchased a new unit is still getting the old model.
So the design is more like the 59" snowblower? Did they do anything else to them like increase the amount of chute rotation?


An x739 should need little or no weight to push a 47 blower anywhere it wants to. My x758 has never needed weight.

If it was me I would take the auger out of the blower housing and never seize the shaft in the impeller. It will save rusting in the future.

Congrats on a fine rig!
 

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The serial number appears much more complex than you listed, but the DOM (date of manufacture) on the lower right is listed as 110818 (November 08, 2018). Last six digits on the serial are 171642.
Hmmm... that is very strange. The parts book doesn't list the whole serial string, only the suffix. So your 171642 should be clearly after 150001. I think everyone assumed that all blowers after the listed serial would have the new gearbox but apparently not. We've not yet found anyone on these forums that has received the new design.

In the diagram below you can see the gearbox located behind the impeller.
 

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So the design is more like the 59" snowblower? Did they do anything else to them like increase the amount of chute rotation?
The design on the chute rotation has not changed. It appears they only added a gearbox in place of the chain and sprockets. The 59" still has a few other differences.

An x739 should need little or no weight to push a 47 blower anywhere it wants to. My x758 has never needed weight.
I guess it depends on the terrain. The problem usually occurs when the blower is raised off the ground - not while pushing it. The 54" front blower will unweight the rear tires on my 2720 enough to make them spin when backing up a hill with the blower raised off the ground. And that's with loaded rear tires AND a 60-inch rear blade on the back. It's amazing how much weight there is hanging off the Quick Tach.

If it was me I would take the auger out of the blower housing and never seize the shaft in the impeller. It will save rusting in the future.
That's good advice. My impeller started to rust fast after only one season.
 

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I guess it depends on the terrain. The problem usually occurs when the blower is raised off the ground - not while pushing it. The 54" front blower will unweight the rear tires on my 2720 enough to make them spin when backing up a hill with the blower raised off the ground. And that's with loaded rear tires AND a 60-inch rear blade on the back. It's amazing how much weight there is hanging off the Quick Tach.
The 47" blower weighs right at 245 pounds ( I weighed it) and the entire front quick hitch is about 80 pounds, depending upon whether one has the angling cylinder to also permit them to plow with the same hitch unit. Having 325 pounds hanging off the front of the tractor frame when the blower is lifted (which is often) compromises traction, but more importantly, it unnecessarily loads the front axle with the machine being that poorly balanced.

It's not merely a matter of traction, its a matter of safety and reducing machine wear. When one properly uses ballast, the traction is increased significantly and the balance of the machine reduces wear on the front steering components and axle. Machines which are run without rear ballast end up wearing out steering arm rod ends, not to mention it puts extra strain on the steering cylinder, which doesn't have replaceable rod ends and costs about $450 to replace.

John Deere recommends the rear ballast and those who have used these machines extensively see the benefit in using ballast properly. In very poor traction conditions (ice, very sloppy snow / slush, etc.) ballast is as important as tire chains for improving traction. Also, asphalt is a much poorer traction surface than is concrete. The nicer the asphalt looks, the worse the traction in winter conditions.............

The buyer of this equipment shouldn't feel like he has gotten a "bad blower" simply because it uses the chain and sprocket configuration. There are tens of thousands (if not more) of those blowers in use which have provided years and even decades of great service. Other than greasing and lubing my blower and treating the impeller shaft and chain with special lubricants designed for use in "wet environments", my blower has provided outstanding service with only one chain replacement in over 20 years.

One trick I have found which really helps prevent corrosion on the blower is when I am done using it during the winter (not just at the end of the season, but after each use), I always take the blower to a snow pile away from the road where the salts and snow melt products are used and drive it through the snow for a few feet, to rinse out as much of the road salt and snow melt material I can before putting the tractor back in the garage. Between "rinsing" the blower with clean snow and also parking it in a heated garage where the snow and ice can melt off of it, it helps to remove the corrosion from inside the blower. They also need to have the chutes insides touched up at the end of each season as the ice and rocks will knock the paint / powder coating off the inside of the chute in no time, leaving it bare metal.
 

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One trick I have found which really helps prevent corrosion on the blower is when I am done using it during the winter (not just at the end of the season, but after each use), I always take the blower to a snow pile away from the road where the salts and snow melt products are used and drive it through the snow for a few feet, to rinse out as much of the road salt and snow melt material I can before putting the tractor back in the garage. Between "rinsing" the blower with clean snow and also parking it in a heated garage where the snow and ice can melt off of it, it helps to remove the corrosion from inside the blower. They also need to have the chutes insides touched up at the end of each season as the ice and rocks will knock the paint / powder coating off the inside of the chute in no time, leaving it bare metal.
That's good advice, I do the same thing.
 

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Very, very nice machine. Good luck and have fun.:bigthumb:
 

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Very nice :congrats::congrats:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hard work day in progress, moved 8 tons of dirt across the property today.

I'll definitely have some questions on snowblower storage as well as other maintenance items in the coming weeks. Too knee deep in work now to get too into that, but in a couple of weeks, when we get a chance to breathe, there will be questions and clarity sought on the so far mentioned stuff.

Thanks!!
 

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Now that you have a couple hours of use on the machine:

Check the hydraulic fluid level it's probably low; dipstickk under the seat, check it cold, when measuring the level you don't thread the cap back on just set it on top of the hole.

Change the engine oil and filter at 8 hrs (better safe than sorry on that one)

Check the tire pressure it's probably way too high from the dealer. Spec is only 10-14 psi for the rears depending on ballast weight.

Grease all the fittings and auto connect coupling

Grease on all the deck linkage pins will quite some of the rattles down I. Rough terrain

Enjoy your seat time and try to wipe that grin off your face while riding around people are gonna think you are going nuts 😂
 
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