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Discussion Starter #1
So let me first say that with 2.9 hours on it, I love my 1025r so far. With my first customizing comes my first "issue". I did know that head room would be a problem and resigned myself to folding the ROPS down to get it inside...a disapointment but not a big deal. I even tried the "headbanger" pisition and its still a couple inches short of clearing the doorway. Today my bright shiney green double weight bar from Heavy Hitch is ready to go on. The problem looks like the top link will have to go over the folded ROPS But when its lowered I will either have a bent top link or bent ROPS, or both. If I lower the 3 pt I will encounter the same problem when lifting it. I will have the same issue for any 3 pt use. Am I missing something or is my only solution to remove the top half of the ROPS. I was also eyeballing the other holes in the upper half and wondering if anyone has tried utilizing them even folded forward to "headbanging mode". I suppose another option is to raise the 3 pt and adjust the stop to prevent it from dropping further but that has potential for an OOPS also. What have you all done other than cutting and shortening the top half?
 

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I took my top half off for now, picked up a canopy, so I'll fab a new top half. Don't want to modify the one that came with it, in case I up grade to a bigger tractor. Another reason is all my land is flat.
 

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I'm unsure on the new 1025R but on my 2025R I was able to fold it completely down, right tight to the lower half and it did not interfere with the top link, worth a try before taking it off.
 

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I don't know about the ROPS on a 1 series, but on my 2720, the ROPs can be let down in a horizontal position for going inside. I do this when I have the ballast box or other three point attachment on, and I don't want to remove it just yet. On my 2720 I've managed to run my forehead into the horizontal bar at least once. It doesn't feel good. I've wheeleied my 2720 a couple times. Fortunately I have brick walls, so only paint damage to the bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So a temporary, snowblower use fix could be 1) lower it all the way and adjust the depth stop lever to prevent it from being raised. This means carrying the weight all the way down at all times or 2) raising it all the way UP and tightening the Rate of Drop knob to keep it all the way up. My concern with #2 is drifting when its shut off and leaving weight on the system even if it doesnt drift. I guess I would opt for #1 and call it solved til spring unless someone has q better idea short 9f removing the top half. That may end up being my ultimate summer solution.
 

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I'm unsure on the new 1025R but on my 2025R I was able to fold it completely down, right tight to the lower half and it did not interfere with the top link, worth a try before taking it off.
Unfortunately with the new one, at least if you've got an iMatch, you can only raise the three point hitch about half way before it'll hit the folded down ROPS. An absolutely terrible design in my mind. I'm not sure if removing the tool box would allow it to close far enough that it wouldn't be an issue though, I haven't tried it yet.
 

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I don't know about the ROPS on a 1 series, but on my 2720, the ROPs can be let down in a horizontal position for going inside. I do this when I have the ballast box or other three point attachment on, and I don't want to remove it just yet. On my 2720 I've managed to run my forehead into the horizontal bar at least once. It doesn't feel good. I've wheeleied my 2720 a couple times. Fortunately I have brick walls, so only paint damage to the bar.
Once?! You deserve some type of medal. I've nicknamed my 2720 "Orion" because every time I am near it I end up seeing stars.
 

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So a temporary, snowblower use fix could be 1) lower it all the way and adjust the depth stop lever to prevent it from being raised. This means carrying the weight all the way down at all times or 2) raising it all the way UP and tightening the Rate of Drop knob to keep it all the way up. My concern with #2 is drifting when its shut off and leaving weight on the system even if it doesnt drift. I guess I would opt for #1 and call it solved til spring unless someone has q better idea short 9f removing the top half. That may end up being my ultimate summer solution.
I would recommend against that. Something is bound to happen. You will forget about the ROD knob, the depth stop will slip, etc. If the top-link or 3PH contacts the ROPS really bad things are going to happen and all of them will cost a lot of money.

If you can't rig the ROPS top section to stay horizontal I would just pull the pins and take it off. It only takes a couple of minutes so no need to wait until spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thats my con cern. The older I get, the more I forget things that used to be second nature. Id be pretty bummed out if I lifted a few hundred lbs of weight into the ROPS. Thank you for pointing this out. That bar is coming off tomorrow. It can go back on when I get a new building put up with an 8 ft entrance!
 

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Thats my con cern. The older I get, the more I forget things that used to be second nature. Id be pretty bummed out if I lifted a few hundred lbs of weight into the ROPS. Thank you for pointing this out. That bar is coming off tomorrow. It can go back on when I get a new building put up with an 8 ft entrance!
Good move.

Your 1025R can lift 600+ pounds with the 3PH. If metal contacts metal something is going to bend or break or do both.
 

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I leave mine folded at the half way mark. I've never hit my head on it, so it's never been a problem for me.
 

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Unfortunately with the new one, at least if you've got an iMatch, you can only raise the three point hitch about half way before it'll hit the folded down ROPS. An absolutely terrible design in my mind. I'm not sure if removing the tool box would allow it to close far enough that it wouldn't be an issue though, I haven't tried it yet.
I agree, it is a horrible design, in the pinned down position the 2025R hits the top link as well. Just to make sure you understand my method it is folded completely down and velcro strapped right tight to the bottom half. It did allow the 3 point to come all the way up without interference, but I get that maybe the 1025 is an even worse design.


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Discussion Starter #14
On mine, becausenit didnt comenwith the hoe, the toolbox 8s keeping it from folding qnd I dont think the extra would be enough anyway. I did the deed, its off. The Heavy Hitch is on and about 450 lbs including the HH. It doesnt seem to be an izsue be8ng too much weight. If it interferes with steering I can baxm off the poundage. Now I dont have to worry about damaging Rops, toplink, rafters, or my head. On my list 8s a seperate smaller building but deep enough for tractor and implements. I promise it will have an 8 ft tall door. Thank you all for your help!
 

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On mine, becausenit didnt comenwith the hoe, the toolbox 8s keeping it from folding qnd I dont think the extra would be enough anyway. I did the deed, its off. The Heavy Hitch is on and about 450 lbs including the HH. It doesnt seem to be an izsue be8ng too much weight. If it interferes with steering I can baxm off the poundage. Now I dont have to worry about damaging Rops, toplink, rafters, or my head. On my list 8s a seperate smaller building but deep enough for tractor and implements. I promise it will have an 8 ft tall door. Thank you all for your help!
Okay, I gotcha now, the 2025R comes with a half size toolbox in the front bumper. :banghead::banghead: I put one on the back but was able to put it where I wanted to not be in the way.
 

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Here was the mod I was talking about, I knew I saw it somewhere.

Very good video




I would sure love to hear the JD engineers explain the rationale behind some of the "enhancements" they have made to the 2018 1025r, starting with the ROPS everyone dislikes and then moving on to why having to have something special to open your hood is better than a simple, small latch down front that isn't in the way, works well when needed and can be opened with your elbow if necessary, let alone while wearing winter gloves.
 

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I would sure love to hear the JD engineers explain the rationale behind some of the "enhancements" they have made to the 2018 1025r, starting with the ROPS everyone dislikes and then moving on to why having to have something special to open your hood is better than a simple, small latch down front that isn't in the way, works well when needed and can be opened with your elbow if necessary, let alone while wearing winter gloves.
The reason I heard is they wanted the 2520/2720 owners to have some company in their misery. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just looked again. It LOOKS like if I could relocate the tool box and velcro the ROPS tight to the bottom half, the top link would be fine. At least then Id have a toolbox taking up space in my shop instead of a ROPS
 

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I modded my rops.Made it shorter to fit into garage. If you search 2018 1023e modded rops you might find it. I don't know how to link to my previous post. Sorry:dunno:
 
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