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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to finish mowing I looked down and looked like hydraulic fluid all over deck and on grass. Any tips where to look. Tomorrow will get deck off and inspect. Is is drivable with no hydraulic fluid. It is empty. Hopeful that’s all it is. 600 hours 2013 model. Thanks for any help.
 

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I wouldn’t recommend moving it if it’s got no fluid. If the transmission is part of the hydraulic system, no fluid means the pump can get damaged and that can be costly.
Get some pictures
Which side is the leak coming from?
 

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My 2020 1025R did the same thing a couple of weeks ago. It has been in the shop since then. I did not look under the tractor. I took the deck off & parked the tractor in the barn. When service came & picked it up, it looked like one of the steering lines was leaking. When the guy turned the wheel, a stream of oil shot out from under the engine. I did add almost a gallon of fluid before they took it.
 

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My first guess is steering hose broke.

Don't move it without fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My first guess is steering hose broke.

Don't move it without fluid.
Well guys I hope I didn’t screw it up. I turned off and didn’t start it but did pull it up to the garage. Now that I think about it seems dum it I did it

if it’s just a hose I will fix it myself. If that is still all it is:))
 

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Good thing is if it moved it had hydraulic fluid. Even if it stopped moving and you shut it off when it stopped the internals would still have oil film on them. Don’t be surprised if it shutters when you fix it when it works any air out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good thing is if it moved it had hydraulic fluid. Even if it stopped moving and you shut it off when it stopped the internals would still have oil film on them. Don’t be surprised if it shutters when you fix it when it works any air out.
Good to hear. When I saw it was leaking bad I turned it off and never started it again. Just pulled it slowly up to garage. Not the best idea apparently but I got out up where I can work on it
 

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Good to hear. When I saw it was leaking bad I turned it off and never started it again. Just pulled it slowly up to garage. Not the best idea apparently but I got out up where I can work on it
If it was out of gear it and the park brake wasn't set it's fine to pull the tractor with/without fluid. I wouldn't go 10+MPH while pulling but this action isn't spinning pumps dry; spinning pumps dry will very likely damage them.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Fortunately, with the 1 series, you can put the H/L gear selector in Neutral and slowly move the tractor without risk of damaging the hydro system.

On any smaller machine which doesn't have a two or more speed gear box, (like a x7xx, etc) , you MUST use the rod or lever, usually found under the rear of the machine, to open both directional valves on the transmision. They call the rod the "Transport Lever" or other such names and it functions by pushing both the forward and reverse directional valves simultaneously, allowing the machine to be rolled on its drive tires without causing damage because the valves which control the fluid pressure are both opened when the rod is used as intended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok finally got pulled to garage cleaned a little and some pics. I was hoping it would be very obvious and maybe to some it would be:) I will attach pics. I had fluid even appear on the floorboard in the bolt holes which must have pushed up from under. The mower deck was cover in fluid and it was pooling when I saw what happened and I turned it off. It was still running and i was mowing just fine when I noticed the liquid on my tires and deck and turned it off After I cleaned it up a bit and let it sit and drip what little was left it almost lookl like its coming from around the oil filter, maybe above, but the area above the oil filter is really pretty dry. Should I put more hydraulic fluid in and start it and look for the leak? If so , how much. That was the suggestion of the counter guy at Deere but he is admittedly not a mechanic. its not real clear to me how to get to some of those hoses. If it is a hose or seal, which I suspect I would rather do it myself but I might not have a choice.
Thank you all for any help.
 

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You can't fix what's broken until you find out EXACTLY what's broken! Wash suspected leak area with parts cleaner. Start tractor and see if/where leak reappears. Don't worry about oil on the bottom of things, oil will flow downhill! Inspect closely as it may be a seal, fitting, or hose on the side spraying oil. Once you find the leak, repairs should be simple. However, finding the leak may not!

As far as adding more oil, YES! Bring level up to whatever "Full" is,,, site gauge/dipstick. Bob
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Number 1, is it motor oil or hydro oil?

How can you tell? Which one is low on the dipstick? My GUESS would be Hydro Oil, but that's only a guess. Motor oil should be darker than hydro oil, but once the oil runs down the dirty case, it can look dirtier that it was when it first leaked.

The filter you are showing is the Hydro system filter where the front drive shaft is headed to the front wheels, There is also the shaft which runs the Hydro pump which spins whenever the engine is running which is tucked up in there.

Here is what I would do.

1. Check the dipstick for the engine oil and hydro oil. One is going to be low, my guess is the hydro oil.

2. The engine holds about 3 qts of oil where the Hydro system holds nearly 4 gallons of oil. Obviously, you don't want to run either low on oil.

3. You could jack up the machine with the MMM removed and start it up and get underneath and see where the leak is. Be prepared to personally wear a lot of oil. This is risky and if you aren't an experienced mechanic, I really don't think you should be under the machine with it running. There are things spinning and moving and something is going to be leaking, etc. It's not a low risk proposition if you don't do this sort of thing often.

4. That much of a fluid leak is usually a ruptured hose or line. Problem is it coats everything around and gravity draws it all to the floor. It makes finding the actual leak harder. Not impossible, just more challenging.

5. While there are items which leak or fail more often than others, it really could be anyone of a number of things.

6. Open the hood, remove the side panels, get good work light and make sure the fluids are filled and then start the engine. Look around, you should be able to see the leak without getting under the machine.

Until you know what's leaking, its only guessing to estimate what its going to take to repair the tractor. Many of us are willing to give you advice and suggestions to help, but the source of the leak needs to be confirmed before anything really can be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Number 1, is it motor oil or hydro oil?

How can you tell? Which one is low on the dipstick? My GUESS would be Hydro Oil, but that's only a guess. Motor oil should be darker than hydro oil, but once the oil runs down the dirty case, it can look dirtier that it was when it first leaked.

The filter you are showing is the Hydro system filter where the front drive shaft is headed to the front wheels, There is also the shaft which runs the Hydro pump which spins whenever the engine is running which is tucked up in there.

Here is what I would do.

1. Check the dipstick for the engine oil and hydro oil. One is going to be low, my guess is the hydro oil.

2. The engine holds about 3 qts of oil where the Hydro system holds nearly 4 gallons of oil. Obviously, you don't want to run either low on oil.

3. You could jack up the machine with the MMM removed and start it up and get underneath and see where the leak is. Be prepared to personally wear a lot of oil. This is risky and if you aren't an experienced mechanic, I really don't think you should be under the machine with it running. There are things spinning and moving and something is going to be leaking, etc. It's not a low risk proposition if you don't do this sort of thing often.

4. That much of a fluid leak is usually a ruptured hose or line. Problem is it coats everything around and gravity draws it all to the floor. It makes finding the actual leak harder. Not impossible, just more challenging.

5. While there are items which leak or fail more often than others, it really could be anyone of a number of things.

6. Open the hood, remove the side panels, get good work light and make sure the fluids are filled and then start the engine. Look around, you should be able to see the leak without getting under the machine.

Until you know what's leaking, its only guessing to estimate what its going to take to repair the tractor. Many of us are willing to give you advice and suggestions to help, but the source of the leak needs to be confirmed before anything really can be done.
Thanks. It’s hydraulic oil. All the hydraulic is gone (it’s in my back yard). I will follow your suggestions. I didn’t realize that was hydraulic filter and I didn’t check to see if for some reason it was loose. Is changed hydraulic fluid and filters about 170 hours ago. It seems like finding the leak is the hardest part. I do have some ramps I have used before that might come in handy
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I thought I would have a good update for everyone. I did clean everything up and following tractor time video took the floorboard off. When I did, this is what the filter looked like. The gasket was blown out. seemed odd, since I changed that filter over 150 hours ago, that it would do that, but it did. So I bought a new filter to be sure and put it on till it touched, then twisted 3/4 turn. At least I thought I did. But when started up it leaked out again. Thinking that I only thought I had it snugged up before I turned 3/4 turn, I did it again and was sure this time. It did not leak. Took a test drive, didnt leak. So put it all back together and mowed about 2.5 hours and son of a gun lost my steering and the transmission began to make noise. Lost it again. Now I have to tow it back up. But can anyone think what this could be? I can find no leaks I have about 640 hours. No problems like this before. When I snugged it up the last time and went 3/4 turn it was pretty tight. It didnt want to go anymore and it did not leak. At least not for a few hours :) So I will be taking it apart. I did put a very thin film of hydraulic fluid over the gasket before I put the filter on. I was sure I had this licked, but obviously not. Automotive tire Wood Gas Auto part Metal


Automotive tire Wood Gas Auto part Metal
 

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Is the old seal from the previous filter stuck on the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I thought I would have a good update for everyone. I did clean everything up and following tractor time video took the floorboard off. When I did, this is what the filter looked like. The gasket was blown out. seemed odd, since I changed that filter over 150 hours ago, that it would do that, but it did. So I bought a new filter to be sure and put it on till it touched, then twisted 3/4 turn. At least I thought I did. But when started up it leaked out again. Thinking that I only thought I had it snugged up before I turned 3/4 turn, I did it again and was sure this time. It did not leak. Took a test drive, didnt leak. So put it all back together and mowed about 2.5 hours and son of a gun lost my steering and the transmission began to make noise. Lost it again. Now I have to tow it back up. But can anyone think what this could be? I can find no leaks I have about 640 hours. No problems like this before. When I snugged it up the last time and went 3/4 turn it was pretty tight. It didnt want to go anymore and it did not leak. At least not for a few hours :) So I will be taking it apart. I did put a very thin film of hydraulic fluid over the gasket before I put the filter on. I was sure I had this licked, but obviously not. View attachment 807620

View attachment 807620
Sorry Jimmy I wasn’t clear. It’s the gasket from the filter. And the old one is with the old filter. Really it looked new but I replaced anyway to be sure.
Is the old seal from the previous filter stuck on the transmission?
sorry I want clear. It’s the gasket from the filter that blew out. The old filter and gasket look new but I replaced anyway. I still have them. Transmission was not leaking
 

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Hmm, I've re-read this post a few times and see no mention of what model your tractor is. I'm assuming it's a 1023/25... which I know nothing about! But, reading other posts on the 1023/255 tractors, fluid comes out of the hydro charge pump, through the filter (that's blowing the gasket), through a mesh strainer, and then throughout the system.
You mentioned it's a 2013 with 600 hours. Have you ever removed and cleaned the strainer? I've read that this strainer is 'under the floorboard', but that's all I know! Perhaps some could help here? Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hmm, I've re-read this post a few times and see no mention of what model your tractor is. I'm assuming it's a 1023/25... which I know nothing about! But, reading other posts on the 1023/255 tractors, fluid comes out of the hydro charge pump, through the filter (that's blowing the gasket), through a mesh strainer, and then throughout the system.
You mentioned it's a 2013 with 600 hours. Have you ever removed and cleaned the strainer? I've read that this strainer is 'under the floorboard', but that's all I know! Perhaps some could help here? Bob
It is a 1025. I have cleaned the strainer following maintenance procedures. Last time it was very clean. Almost nothing attracted to the magnet. I did not check it 2 hours ago
 
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