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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a measurement I need on the front of the frame. Specifically the holes found in the piece of 3/8" plate, that ties left to right side. The piece the front ball mount slides through.

There are two - 3/4" holes facing forward. With the tractor itself on a level smooth surface (tires must be inflated to correct air pressure) I need to know the measurement from the ground UP to the bottom of each hole. Reason I ask this of you, is something's amiss with the hole placement on my tractor that is making the snow plow 1-1/4" out of level across the span of a 54" plow blade. So I'm doing a process of elimination, to be ready in the morning, when I stop by the weld shop where my tractor currently is.

If several of you can do this for me, I would greatly appreciate it!!

Blade_Mount_Span_measure.jpg
 

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My x485 has all those holes. LMK if you want a measurement. If so, I'd get it tomorrow. Good excuse to check the air pressure in the tires.
 

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14 13/16" to bottom of holes both sides. 15 1/4" to center line of holes. The center line measurement works the best when measuring, laying out stuff etc. Checked tire pressures, 15 in front, 10 in rear. I like mine on the high side. The holes are a little bigger than 3/4".
 

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When new my X739's blade was 1 inch off on a level surface. The dealer and John Deere did a bunch of measurements and determined the tractor frame was wonky so they replaced it under warranty, if I remember right the 1 inch was just over the acceptable tolerances. Since it was a newer tractor (less than 6 months) they gave me a choice of frame replacement or going to the weld shop at their expense.
 

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My x485 has all those holes. LMK if you want a measurement. If so, I'd get it tomorrow. Good excuse to check the air pressure in the tires.
I should add my x485 is AWS and may have smaller tires than your x739 4x4 AWS? :dunno:
 

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I'm confused on why you are asking for those holes. Are they the same distance from the ground? that would be a valid question. Exact number not important And the hitch doesn't attach there. I would think you'd want the dimensions for the side holes where the hitch attaches.

Secondly, is your hitch itself level?

Also, the cutting edge has considerable adjustment. It could be that too.

How does the blade sit on float when angled straight. This might tell you how play you have in the hitch/blade assembly. How tight is the center bolt?
 

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I'm confused on why you are asking for those holes. Are they the same distance from the ground? that would be a valid question. Exact number not important And the hitch doesn't attach there. I would think you'd want the dimensions for the side holes where the hitch attaches.

Secondly, is your hitch itself level?

Also, the cutting edge has considerable adjustment. It could be that too.

How does the blade sit on float when angled straight. This might tell you how play you have in the hitch/blade assembly. How tight is the center bolt?
I was wondering too. I've had front blades on three different JD's over the years and none of them were perfect. When you lift them up off the floor and grab one end your going to get some movement even on a brand new one in my experience. They just don't make them that tight. If I was real ambitious Id hang mine on tractor tomorrow and do some measuring for you. You got me wondering how close mine is to being level.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I figured my question would lead to other questions, as/too....why. Y'all (some) are reading too much into it. Don't question in need of justification "why". That's just it, no one knows why.
To those who responded based on the request, I appreciate your return input.

Justification to my frustrations has been eliminated at this point in time.
Meanwhile, I'm hurting something fierce. I'm too damn OLD to be doing the manual labor of a naive youngin pouring concrete.
I need muscle relaxers. Painkillers. Whiskey. Oh heck, just put me outta my misery already.
 

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When new my X739's blade was 1 inch off on a level surface. The dealer and John Deere did a bunch of measurements and determined the tractor frame was wonky so they replaced it under warranty, if I remember right the 1 inch was just over the acceptable tolerances. Since it was a newer tractor (less than 6 months) they gave me a choice of frame replacement or going to the weld shop at their expense.
That would piss me off. 1" of twist in the frame is acceptable?! It's not even 6' in length...I'd hate to see what their house looks like. :banghead:
 
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That would piss me off. 1" of twist in the frame is acceptable?! It's not even 6' in length...I'd hate to see what their house looks like. :banghead:
The frame itself behind the front axle wasn't twisted, according to JD something happened during the manufacturing process to cause the front section to be welded on out of alignment. The front hitch and blade were new so all the pins/bolts were tight with no slop which was the first thing they checked.

I was impressed with their commitment to get it right, it probably cost a small fortune to change out that frame!
 

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I was wondering too. I've had front blades on three different JD's over the years and none of them were perfect. When you lift them up off the floor and grab one end your going to get some movement even on a brand new one in my experience. They just don't make them that tight. If I was real ambitious Id hang mine on tractor tomorrow and do some measuring for you. You got me wondering how close mine is to being level.
Getting crazy in this heat or my age or maybe both. When out this morning and took some measurements on mine. The frame where you had me measure holes is fairly level. The upper notches where quick hitch lays into are about 1/8" different off floor. If you lay level on hitch itself its out of level. At bottom edge of blade on each outer end its 1" different from one side to other. I measured the main blade, not the cutting edge. Had blade raised up off floor pointed straight forward. Might as well say its new. I only used it once on a light snow. It's a combination of tractor frame and hitch on mine. Not very good pics but you'll get the idea. The floor itself is a little off side to side (not much) so you have to account for that when looking at bubble on level. Oh, and you could get at least a 1/2" of play out at end of moldboard by pulling up and down on it. Guess thats why it sits flat on floor and works ok.
 

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