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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all

We got a ton of the wettest and heaviest snow if seen in a long time. I was using my 54” blade on the quick hitch and went to angle it opposite direction and nothing. I’ve read before of people blowing out the cylinders on these. Any insight would be helpful.

Cylinder is only about a month old with maybe 50hrs on it. Picked it up from green parts store. Going to try Monday to see if they have some sort of warranty. Does JD sell a rebuild kit for these?
 

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Hello all

We got a ton of the wettest and heaviest snow if seen in a long time. I was using my 54” blade on the quick hitch and went to angle it opposite direction and nothing. I’ve read before of people blowing out the cylinders on these. Any insight would be helpful.

Cylinder is only about a month old with maybe 50hrs on it. Picked it up from green parts store. Going to try Monday to see if they have some sort of warranty. Does JD sell a rebuild kit for these?
Most of the ones I have seen are sealed. You would have to cut off one end and then weld it back up after repairing. What is this on? It should not fail that quick so I would return it and see what they say. Are you sure it's blown? Maybe a line get partially disconnected or something?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
All lines/ fittings, fluid levels are as they should be. I do have a gravel drive and could have clipped a rut or large frozen stone. Attached my blower and tested the chute and it appears the tractor side of things is fine.

Anyone deal with green parts store. I can’t see anything in regards to warranty
 

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Haven't dealt with them before, but imagine it should have at least a 90 day warrenty, if not a year. Call your local dealer, they should be able to tell you the warrenty length. Maybe they can warrenty it for you too.
 
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I can't speak to Green Parts specifically, but I purchased a water pump for my 455 from Green Farm Parts a few years ago. Within a few months of installing it, it began to weep antifreeze. I contacted Green Farm Parts and their response was no problem, it has a 1 year warranty. It was winter and I had the cab on. It would have to come off to replace the water pump. I asked if we could wait until Spring, when I would normally remove the cab. Again, no problem.

When spring came, I contacted them again and asked if I could get an advance replacement, to minimize the downtime. Again, they said no problem. Here is the real kicker, they sent the advance replacement out without my paying for it (with an assumed credit to be made upon receipt of the defective pump). Not even a credit card authorization! Strictly the assumption that I would ship back the defective unit.

Guess where I buy my parts now?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE

Pulled the pins and remove the tilt cylinder this afternoon. Cylinder rod came right out. I noticed there were threads on inside of cylinder rod and a bolt to hold it to the plunger. Seems when it was manufactured the bolt was installed cross threaded and only a few turns.

Dug it the chop saw and cut the bottom of cylinder off. Ground and cleaned cylinder as best I could. I then re tapped the cylinder rod and re attached the plunger inside to the cylinder rod adding locktite. Welded the cylinder back together and re installed fittings and lines and bench tested. All worked as it should.

Wish I had taken pictures but it saved me from buying a new cylinder at the dealer for 500$. Even if it only lasts the rest of the season I’ve only lost my time and a litre of fluid!
 

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UPDATE

Pulled the pins and remove the tilt cylinder this afternoon. Cylinder rod came right out. I noticed there were threads on inside of cylinder rod and a bolt to hold it to the plunger. Seems when it was manufactured the bolt was installed cross threaded and only a few turns.

Dug it the chop saw and cut the bottom of cylinder off. Ground and cleaned cylinder as best I could. I then re tapped the cylinder rod and re attached the plunger inside to the cylinder rod adding locktite. Welded the cylinder back together and re installed fittings and lines and bench tested. All worked as it should.

Wish I had taken pictures but it saved me from buying a new cylinder at the dealer for 500$. Even if it only lasts the rest of the season I’ve only lost my time and a litre of fluid!
Well done, you know your way around a work shop, impressive fix!

If the bolt was only in a few turns, then there was probably plenty of good threads for the bolt when you put it back together, at least as many as a helicoil, I bet it will hold up.

And sadly this is yet another testament to the pitiful state of quality control that it was even ever assembled like that...
 

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UPDATE

Pulled the pins and remove the tilt cylinder this afternoon. Cylinder rod came right out. I noticed there were threads on inside of cylinder rod and a bolt to hold it to the plunger. Seems when it was manufactured the bolt was installed cross threaded and only a few turns.

Dug it the chop saw and cut the bottom of cylinder off. Ground and cleaned cylinder as best I could. I then re tapped the cylinder rod and re attached the plunger inside to the cylinder rod adding locktite. Welded the cylinder back together and re installed fittings and lines and bench tested. All worked as it should.

Wish I had taken pictures but it saved me from buying a new cylinder at the dealer for 500$. Even if it only lasts the rest of the season I’ve only lost my time and a litre of fluid!
Did Green Parts decline to warranty it? I'm glad it worked out for you, but I would have not gone down that road unless I couldn't have received a warranty replacement. If your repair would not have been possible or successful, once you opened the cylinder up, it would have likely nullified any warranty.
 

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Did Green Parts decline to warranty it? I'm glad it worked out for you, but I would have not gone down that road unless I couldn't have received a warranty replacement. If your repair would not have been possible or successful, once you opened the cylinder up, it would have likely nullified any warranty.
That was kind of my thought. It is one thing if they said, we believe you, we don't need the defective old cylinder back, we will just ship a new one. Unless I really needed that tilt function, I would have sent it in for a new one. Though I have 2 or 3 spare cylinders laying around so I would have just swapped it out while waiting on the replacement.
 
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UPDATE

Pulled the pins and remove the tilt cylinder this afternoon. Cylinder rod came right out. I noticed there were threads on inside of cylinder rod and a bolt to hold it to the plunger. Seems when it was manufactured the bolt was installed cross threaded and only a few turns.

Dug it the chop saw and cut the bottom of cylinder off. Ground and cleaned cylinder as best I could. I then re tapped the cylinder rod and re attached the plunger inside to the cylinder rod adding locktite. Welded the cylinder back together and re installed fittings and lines and bench tested. All worked as it should.

Wish I had taken pictures but it saved me from buying a new cylinder at the dealer for 500$. Even if it only lasts the rest of the season I’ve only lost my time and a litre of fluid!
Well done.......Nice repair. :good2:

Recently, I had a steering cylinder that was leaking severely and the moment the shops found out it was a steering cylinder and would have to be re-welded (verses the threaded type cylinders) I couldn't find a shop who would touch it. And I tried over a dozen different ones. The fact that it was a steering cylinder seemed to be the deal killer. Must be more liability than they want to assume....(?) :dunno:

I have broken several of the pins which hold the angle cylinder in the quick hitch, but had no issue with the actual angle cylinder itself. In fact, I now use a hitch pin with the "T" handle on top and a spring pin through the bottom so it's easier to change out and keep a couple spare hitch pins in the "spare parts" bin.

I did have a new hydraulic line on my 1025R quick attach hitch blow one morning when I was finishing plowing. It sprayed oil all over everything. The dealer had the technician, Caleb, who installed my Mauser cab and also did all of the implement set up out here within the hour. He inspected the problem and he went back to the dealership and built 4 new hoses and all new fittings and replaced them all and then he also made a protective sleeve and secured the lines in the sleeve, in one of the chrome support rings which are bolted to the side of the tractor frame.

No problems since....Not sure why the line ruptured but the new lines made at the dealership seem to be heavier quality rubber hydraulic line than came on the hitch from the factory. With my 455 and over 20 years of HARD plowing, never had a hose fail but did lose several of the 90 degree fittings at the angle cylinder because of ice building up in the hitch around the angle cylinder and then when the plow is angled, the ice would bend the fitting on the end of the cylinder.

On the 1025R with the factory exhaust pipe, it throws the heat and exhaust right at the area where the ice formed on my hitch on the 455 so it keeps that area free of snow and ice. A little Simple Green and the exhaust smoke washed right off the back of the plow and hitch area.

IMG_20180104_121851490.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #11
“Did Green Parts decline to warranty it? I'm glad it worked out for you, but I would have not gone down that road unless I couldn't have received a warranty replacement. If your repair would not have been possible or successful, once you opened the cylinder up, it would have likely nullified any warranty”.

Not sure how to do quotes from mobile

I called twice and an email with an answer that they would get back to me on it. Didn’t receive anything. I do use my 1025 for commercial snow removal and can’t afford to wait weeks for a silly return process. Maybe I’m just impatient. I also can’t justify buying one from the dealer at 500$ which was in stock. I think I paid 350$ CAD for the full assembly lines, fittings etc.

Why did I decide to cut it up? I’ve always been a curious person as a kid I always had fun taking things apart and reassembling them rather than playing with them, and thought hell it might be junk anyways. Once I saw the bolt had come out it was a relatively easy fix.

I would have spent more time dealing with shipping and sitting on a phone than just fixing it myself.
 

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dombougie,

Makes perfect sense, especially since you're livelihood depends on it. Too bad Green Parts didn't follow up promptly.

Sulleybear,

So when are you adopting Caleb?
 

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I have broken several of the pins which hold the angle cylinder in the quick hitch, but had no issue with the actual angle cylinder itself. In fact, I now use a hitch pin with the "T" handle on top and a spring pin through the bottom so it's easier to change out and keep a couple spare hitch pins in the "spare parts" bin.

I did have a new hydraulic line on my 1025R quick attach hitch blow one morning when I was finishing plowing. It sprayed oil all over everything. The dealer had the technician, Caleb, who installed my Mauser cab and also did all of the implement set up out here within the hour. He inspected the problem and he went back to the dealership and built 4 new hoses and all new fittings and replaced them all and then he also made a protective sleeve and secured the lines in the sleeve, in one of the chrome support rings which are bolted to the side of the tractor frame.
This might be a design issue with my quick hitch that may have been later corrected or not an issue with the 1025R because of different design. The biggest issue I have had is my pivot cylinder has a 90* fitting on it where one of the hydraulic lines connect. Normally there is enough clearance between the frame of the quick hitch and this fitting. It is tight though. Maybe 1/2" clearance. If I am doing a lot of back dragging with really wet snow and then doing pivot changes I have packed enough snow between the frame and this fitting on the pivot cylinder where it starts icing up and will eventually put too much pressure on the line and cause it to break the 90* fitting. Then it will start shooting hydraulic fluid everywhere. I haven't broken one in a while but I keep a few on hand just in case. Kind of like sheer pins for the blower. I also avoid plowing with the blade angled to push snow off to the left side of the tractor. There is only one place where I have to angle that way and I will normally hit that area first while plowing before too much snow gets stuck to the quick hitch. When making passes down the bulk of the driveway I just push to the right and make passes in both directions. I have looked at mounting my cylinder the other way but there either isn't clearance for the lines or it puts the 90* fitting in an angle that is worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There is a major design flaw on those 90 fittings. When I finish off other ongoing projects and clear up the honey do list the wife made I will find a solution for that. (I may be dead by the time she gets off my back)

Something like the loader arm with the solid steel line that can be tighter to the cylinder then connecting to hoses. (Makes sense in my head)

I thought possibly the quick hitch system and 1025 just aren’t made for a commercial user, but it seems a lot of residential and low hour use have the same problem
 

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There is a major design flaw on those 90 fittings. When I finish off other ongoing projects and clear up the honey do list the wife made I will find a solution for that. (I may be dead by the time she gets off my back)

Something like the loader arm with the solid steel line that can be tighter to the cylinder then connecting to hoses. (Makes sense in my head)

I thought possibly the quick hitch system and 1025 just aren’t made for a commercial user, but it seems a lot of residential and low hour use have the same problem
Yeah, I was trying to look at your photo but couldn't really tell because the lines were in the way if you had the same issue I face with that 90. Of course my machine is an X Series and a 2002 model year so I figured they would have fixed the issue by now.
 
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