I wouldn't be without tire chains.

https://www.tirechain.com/Tractor-Tire-Chains.htm

 

I have the 1st Generation 2032R and never used my chains until this winter even though I bought them shortly after getting the machine.

The difference is night and day. No slipping, no wheel spinning... I guess both are still possible but they don't happen anywhere near as much as without them. I haven't even engaged MFWD or the rear wheel locker since putting them on.

Putting chains on and getting them properly fitted the 1st time takes some time and a bit of work. After you get that right, it isn't a big deal. Now that I have mine right, it takes 30 minutes to put them on and the tractor is like a little tank with them.

Not sure what Deere's recommendation is for chains on teh front wheels for your machine. They recommend against it for many of the CUTs. The whole idea just makes me nervous. It'd be way to easy to have a chain grab ahold of something up front as you're driving along and rip it off. There isn't much clearance around the front wheels and once you start turning those wheels back and forth those chains would come awfully close to other front end components.

 

Nice post. :thumbup1gif:

I use front chains on occasion but not very often. Rear chains have never been off since 2008.
Front spacers are your friend.

 

You didn't say if you have a paved or gravel driveway.

The chain vs no-chain debate has been discussed to death. It all depends on your particular conditions and environment. Take two guys with the same tractor and one will claim he has never needed chains and the other will say he never takes his chains off.

I'm in the later camp. I have a 2720 with R4 tires and chains go on ALL FOUR tires in December and they don't come off until March. I tried it once without chains and I could barely back out of the garage.

Chains seem to work even better on R3 tires as you don't have any tread lugs for the chain to fall between.

Whether you need them on the front or back again depends on your tractor's weight bias and implements. For me, with the 54" front blower raised off the ground and using the rear blade I can't go anywhere without front chains? Why? Because even with loaded rear tires, with the 250lb blower hanging out in front it unweights the rear tires enough that they will easily spin. So the front tires are doing most of the work. When the blower is on the ground then not so much.

I would look around before buying the JD tire chains. Places like Tirechain.com have a much better selection of 2-link, 4-link, V-bar, No-Vbar, etc.

Are they a pain to put on? Again, it depends. My rear chains are 3/8 2-links and they weight around 80lb each. They are a major PITA to get mounted each season and I don't ever look forward to it. The front chains are more like glorified dog chain and they are very easy to mount.

 

I'm struggling a bit in the deep snow up here and have almost been stuck a few times plowing the driveway. Almost thinking I should trade the blade for a blower with this big driveway Hehe.

Running R3 turf front and rear. I'm thinking about getting the JD rear tire chain kit. Anyone use them and do they make a good difference? Can / should the fronts also have chains?

Are they also easy to install and remove?

Thanks!

You didn't say if you have a paved or gravel driveway.

The chain vs no-chain debate has been discussed to death. It all depends on your particular conditions and environment. Take two guys with the same tractor and one will claim he has never needed chains and the other will say he never takes his chains off. ?

I'm in the later camp. I have a 2720 with R4 tires and chains go on ALL FOUR tires in December and they don't come off until March. I tried it once without chains and I could barely back out of the garage.

Chains seem to work even better on R3 tires as you don't have any tread lugs for the chain to fall between.

Whether you need them on the front or back again depends on your tractor's weight bias and implements. For me, with the 54" front blower raised off the ground and using the rear blade I can't go anywhere without front chains? Why? Because even with loaded rear tires, with the 250lb blower hanging out in front it unweights the rear tires enough that they will easily spin. So the front tires are doing most of the work. When the blower is on the ground then not so much.

I would look around before buying the JD tire chains. Placing like Tirechain.com have a much better selection of 2-link, 4-link, V-bar, No-Vbar, etc.

Are they a pain to put on? Again, it depends. My rear chains are 3/8 2-links and they weight around 80lb each. They are a major PITA to get mounted each season and I don't ever look forward to it. The front chains are more like glorified dog chain and they are very easy to mount.

Thanks for the replies everyone!

So I have the 366 blade with a 60" box blade on the rear. I think I'd be just fine with rear chains given how well its been performing up until this really deep stuff. It really spins when not in 4wd though.

I have a 700ft gravel driveway but may but in a small section of concrete at some point.

I was thinking the JD chains just because it's fairly easy to source vs ordering from the US and shipping into Canada.

Let me know.

Thanks

 

Rear chains go on my 2520 in December and stay there until everything turns to mud in the spring.

You will not believe the difference.

Maybe very rarely a bit of steering issue on really wet packed snow - then just use the steering brakes if needed.

#chainsrule

 

I am also thinking about wheel spacers. Considering I have a 366 blade would it make the wheels too wide for plowing?

 

I just got my first tractor, a 2018 2032R, and insisted on getting chains with it. I am less than a mile south of lake Ontario and lake effect snow is a given. Since I also got a backhoe they had to put spacers on the rear wheels so the chains would clear the backhoe mount. They advised against front chains. It arrived after snow season started and the JD chains on the R4 tires made it wobble a lot as the links sometimes went between the lugs and sometimes over them. Since then I have seen some other patterns for the chains that I think would work a lot better. The chains are off for now ready to hand, but since the mixed media drive is short and no steep slopes it has been fine, even when everything got iced. Provided I was in 4WD that is. I still plan on a set of new pattern chains for next winter. Just in case.

Bear in mind I am a tractor newbie. I have put about 6 hours on "George" with 3 snowstorms since getting him. Winter was the first priority with a front mount snowblower and an OTC cab. I had to guess at how much to put in the ballast box, the OM was no help. The transport lock gave me fits for a while until I "discovered" it. I still have a lot to learn.

 

Having dealt with tire chains on tractors, trucks, and cars all my life I knew what I wanted when ordering chains for my tractor.

I went with these Aqualine MPV chains for my R4’s. A couple reasons -

They will not go down between the tire lugs.

When you stop or on a side hill you always have chain touching the ground unlike regular ladder chains.

Very low profile - you don’t even feel them when running on hard ground. Plus the fact you are running on the chain constantly so there is no up and down to them.

Low profile equals no clearance issues.

Yeah - a bit more expensive than regular ladder chains but I believe in buying once and buying right. These will last me the rest of my life.

Aquiline Tire Chains

 

I just have to ask what do you have for rear ballast, I think you said a box blade. To me, that is not enough weight but that is just me and I am sure others will chime in on this. If you want to give it a try before chains find some 40lb bags of something put them on top of the box blade. If you put to much weight you will lose some steering with the front tires or the blade will push the tractor sideways when the blade is angled. For lack of better terms, you kind of have to find a sweet spot.

Doug

 

Interesting discusson on chains. Are we talking several hundred dollars for rear chains on my 2520 for example ? I followed the links, but I don'r see any prices listed.

The area around my garage is level so I get by with my snowblowing running R3 turfs without chains very well, however behind my house I feed the deer and have for years been digging out the area by hand.
The area slopes off, but nothing dramatic, but I am afraid that once I go down snow blowing or scraping my wheels would spin trapping me behind the house. This last summer I was thinking about buying a small snow blower just for that purpose, but hate the thought of another small gas engine especially while owning my 2520.

 

The chains I talked about above are in the high end of the scale - they were a little over $400 a few years ago.

 

Do tractor chains cause the tire to wear quicker ?
I imagine that there is some slippage of the chains.

 

My tractors wear chains year round on the rear. I replace the front tires on my 1988 JD 650 twice and had never replace the rears.
The day the 650 left...

 

This is where I got my Aquiline chains - shows tire sizes and prices. Of course this time of year forget about stock. I ordered mine in August to be sure I had them.

https://www.tirechainsrequired.com/collections/aquiline-mpc-tractor-series

 

I'm struggling a bit in the deep snow up here and have almost been stuck a few times plowing the driveway. Almost thinking I should trade the blade for a blower with this big driveway Hehe.

Running R3 turf front and rear. I'm thinking about getting the JD rear tire chain kit. Anyone use them and do they make a good difference? Can / should the fronts also have chains?

Are they also easy to install and remove?

Thanks!

I just have to ask what do you have for rear ballast, I think you said a box blade. To me, that is not enough weight but that is just me and I am sure others will chime in on this. If you want to give it a try before chains find some 40lb bags of something put them on top of the box blade. If you put to much weight you will lose some steering with the front tires or the blade will push the tractor sideways when the blade is angled. For lack of better terms, you kind of have to find a sweet spot.

Doug

I have the 60" box blade and no fill in the tires so I could look at adding more weight. Also mulling going to a 72" blade so that'd be a bit heavier.

I ended up ordering the chains as I'm planning on plowing out some ski trails around the property and I know they'll come in handy.

Ordered the JD chains think they around 400 Canadian. Should be in soon so I'll report back how they install and work out.

 

Chains! Don't fool around. :hi:

 

Just curious, but looking around at chains for my 2520 R3 36x14x15 has yielded zero results.​

 

You need to call https://www.tirechain.com/ they will help you out.

 

Another thing that I wonder about. I thought in this thread that somebody said if you have an asphalt or concrete driveway that the chains would tear it up.
I did notice that superglide has a picture with two tractors on an asphalt driveway.

 

Another thing that I wonder about. I thought in this thread that somebody said if you have an asphalt or concrete driveway that the chains would tear it up.
I did notice that superglide has a picture with two tractors on an asphalt driveway.

Only if you sit and spin the tires.

 

Guess I'll have to get more familiar with Craig's List. I got a yard mule (deckless riding mower) there once but haven't kept current. I have a lot of other things that need a new home as well.

I think I'll play chicken and wait to sell the chains until after I get the replacements I want. Ladder chains in hand are better than great chains on back order.

Thanks for the idea jgayman

 

If you are going to get the Aquilines I would suggest ordering them this summer (or earlier) to have them for next winter. I ordered mine in August a few years back - the vendor added them to an order he already had coming - he had them in the second week of September and shipped to me the same day.

Maybe other vendors have better inventory - I don’t know.

This is the vendor I used. Very pleasant to deal with on the phone - all steps happened exactly as he had told me they would.

https://www.tirechainsrequired.com

 

These chains are great!

I plow a 1/2 mile road that is quite steep and often covered with ice after a thaw. These not only have good traction, they do a good job of breaking up the base so the sun can melt it. Got them @ TIRECHAINS online also. I plow downhill with a bucket mounted 5' blade and blow back up with a 5' meteor
Hoping to trade this Kubota on a new 3025e or 3032e soon.

 

Just ordered these bad boys. OFA EKO 8mm

studded.My 17 2032r should go through the snow in the woods now!

 

I have a 2008 2320 my buddy cut up an old set of logging truck chains for my rear tires they work great but I am needing front chains for the awkward steep angles in my church parking lot.

I push forward with a load in my bucket have wheels turned all the way to the right I slip to the left.

I tried to install an old set of my rear garden tractor tires onto the front axle today the inside of the tires are so tight to the tie rod/and other parts that I couldn't make them fit properly.

I saw a reference to spacers earlier in this thread do these mount inside the rim to widen the gap?

Thanks
CC

Picture is from when we first installed them I used them last week for 3 long days yes I had put a bungie on them to keep them pulled tight I bounced around but they really did the job.

 

I saw a reference to spacers earlier in this thread do these mount inside the rim to widen the gap?

Yes, they mount inside the front rims (LVU12475). They are made for the 2320, 2520 and 2720 (also Gen-1 2032R). When installing the spacers you also need longer bolts.

#4 below.

 

Peerless CAM locks. Sweet!
What Gizmo2 said.

Sent from my RCT6773W22 using Tapatalk

 

For you guys wanting to put chains on the 2 Gen 2032r/2038r front tires, according to my manual the front tires can be swapped side to side for a wider spacing. It does state, not recommended for heavy loader work. I'll be trying this when my chains arrive so I'll get some pics posted when I get it done. I did order spacers for the rears though just to be safe and wider is better anyway right!

 

my manual states they can be swapped side to side to reverse tread direction. it also states that the value stems are to be installed out (which would keep the back spacing). Does your manual read different?

"The machines are equipped with directional type tires (such as bar tires) and have directional arrows on the tire sidewall. Install the tires with the directional arrow pointing in the direction of travel.

If the machine is manly used for loader operations, lug direction may be reversed on the MFWD axle to increase tire life, improve tire wear, and increased traction.

Change the tire rolling direction by moving the wheel from one side of the machine to the other.

Install the wheel with the valve stem facing outwards."

 

Here's what mine says-

 

Here's what mine says

well now thats interesting

 

Does anyone have chains on a 2032/2038r without wheel spacers installed?

I tried to put mine on today and they are very close to the fender and some linkages underneath. I doubt I'll install without spacers it doesn't look safe without damaging the tractor.

 

I bought the JD tire chain set about 3 weeks ago for my 2038r... installed them on the rear without wheel spacers. The right side catches the 3 point lever, not every-time, but most times. The left side caught my premium rops lights wiring... Installing rear wheel spacers Saturday :good2:

 

I bought the JD tire chain set about 3 weeks ago for my 2038r... installed them on the rear without wheel spacers. The right side catches the 3 point lever, not every-time, but most times. The left side caught my premium rops lights wiring... Installing rear wheel spacers Saturday

Thanks for confirming my concerns! Spacers will be ordered today.

 

I got my 2032R a couple months ago. The dealer was surprised I insisted on chains too and tried to talk me out of it. They said clearance was too tight because I got the backhoe as well, so they had to put spacers on the rear wheels. I don't care for the ladder chains with the R4 tires. They should be fine for the R3 though.

Durn chains are almost too heavy for this old carcass though.

 

Just curious. Having a gravel driveway I can't see any problem using chains, but what if I had my driveway paved would the chains ruin the asphalt?
My parking area is half shaded by the garage so one half will open up after cleaning up, but the shaded half melts and refreezes until I end up with thick ice.

 

My driveway is gravel but I also clean two neighbors with paved driveways. I run 2-link chains on all four tires. I've not noticed any marks in the pavement attributed to my chains. The key is to NOT SPIN THE TIRES. if you spin the tires you will leave marks. Also, while V-bar chains are the ultimate for gravel driveways I would not use them at all on pavement, stick with standard non-cleated chains.

One thing to consider is pavement (asphalt) is a bit harder in low temperatures compared to the hot summer temperatures. So you are less likely to leave imprints in the winter months.