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Brian brought up a point in another thread about adjusting tire pressue to maximize traction. Now that got me to thinking, I know that doesn't happen everyday, but I've been handling my tire pressures a little differently. I just look at the manual and it tells me the pressure it needs to have. So, is there more to this? By adjusting the pressures what are the positive and negitive out comes.

For example, traction, wear, and comfort can all be effected by this simple little adjustment. What do you guys think or know, do I need to experiment? Anyone have some good reading material on this? Have technologies effectec changes over the years? And how do you make these adjustments, based on what? Tell me I'm all ears. This should be a good one.
 

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I will respond with the little I have been taught about this. This started on our large farm tractor and I have been working on my smaller tractors to get this correct. Without liquid as a ballast, tire pressures can be adjusted for the task at hand.

I have been told that correctly adjusted tire pressure can reduce tire slippage by as much as 20 percent. By reducing tire pressure, it distributes the weight of the tractor over more soil area due to tire flexing and flattening out over the soil. Also, lower tire pressure reduces soil compaction as the pressure in the tire is very closely related to the force on the soil.
The theory being that more tire contact with the soil means better traction.

I have been plowing before and had major tractor hop. Most of it was caused by the tire breaking traction and gaining it again fairly fast. In that case I reduced the pressure down about 8 psi and the hop went away.

If I am working on a damp field or pulling something like a chisel plow with my 4520 I will drop the rear down to 8 or 9 pounds. It is very noticeable in the traction that is gained. But, I always air up if I will be driving on a road for long distances.

Will you see this same results with R-4's? I have no clue, but it works well with R-1's.
 

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The one and only bad designed component I've found on my 855 is it's seat... It must have been designed for golf course workers. I've tried to replace the seat but it has a dished out area in it's sheetmetal back necessary for parking the top link.

I've never adjusted my tire pressure for anything other than comfort.. I'm guessing the comfort setting is right for snow removal, pulling stumps, pulling the rake, the lawn roller, bush hogging, pulling the grooming mower, using the bucket to put in drives and tearing out sod to pour pads and spot spraying.

My back and hips couldn't take the company setting.
 

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My 4200's manual was confusing to me on tire pressures; so I took a guess as to what I thought was right for my rig. My front tires developed premature sidewall separation that I attribute to loader work, which is the bulk of what Bambi does. After I replaced the tires, I just air them up to the maximum recommended in the manual. I have R4's.
 

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Serious 4x4 offroad drivers frequently drop pressure for more traction and add it again when returning to the pavement. Many have a permanently mounted 12V compressor under the hood for this purpose. The serious ones have belt-driven compressors.

Example:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/QA2.html
 

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And the really serious ones have Unimogs, some models allow you to air down/up from inside the cab with the push of a switch :thumbup1gif:

Serious 4x4 offroad drivers frequently drop pressure for more traction and add it again when returning to the pavement. Many have a permanently mounted 12V compressor under the hood for this purpose. The serious ones have belt-driven compressors.

Example:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/QA2.html
 

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Brian makes some good points and as his posts said, it was "on the job" where he learned it. Experience is the best teacher and what he has done worked no doubt for tractor tires without fluid. He has the results to prove it. I know this thread was primarily about tractor tire pressures and not meaning to hijack the thread at all but here's something I learned about trailer tires just a couple of weeks ago.

I bought a tractor near Nashville, roughly a 160 miles away from me. The trailer has dual axles and the tires were old but still with good tread, no visible cracks at all so i was willing to take the trip and haul the tractor back home with the existing tires. I had not gotten even a mile down the interstate when one of the tires literally came apart. Luckily the next exit, 10 miles away, had a Big Ten tire store and he recommended 8 ply trailer tires with high pressure valve stems. He said these tires and valve stems could be pressurized up to 80 pounds to handle the load on the trailer.

One interesting thing he pointed out was it was very important to keep these tires inflated at least to the rated / recommended pressure, 45 lbs. He said running a tire at highway speeds under inflated causes premature tire failure due to overheating. I thought at 45 lbs the trailer would bounce all over the road unloaded but that is not the case at all.
 

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The one and only bad designed component I've found on my 855 is it's seat... It must have been designed for golf course workers. I've tried to replace the seat but it has a dished out area in it's sheetmetal back necessary for parking the top link.
Can you clarify that for me? I have never seen a dished out area and the parked top link is a good distance from the seat.
 

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I really can't be more descriptive.


This why I hate to post, always people looking to make you a liar... I'm no engineer, to me it's dished out at the bottom of the seat or bent under. I don't have a photographic memory concerning the back of my seat and I don't park the tractor in the house .... dished out is what I called it from memory.
 

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I think I'm gonna play it safe and just read the posts for awhile.

Heres the seat without the arrows..... ((((warning)))) my terminolgy and prospective could be different than yours and others.
 

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I think I'm gonna play it safe and just read the posts for awhile.
NO NO, Please don't do that! We love your post's:thumbup1gif:
 

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I really can't be more descriptive.


This why I hate to post, always people looking to make you a liar...
I didn't take it that way at all. I believe you read more into his question than what he meant. He just didn't understand what you were describing. I didn't either but I'm not familiar with the 855 enough to know.
 

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For all technically perfect answers and discriptions I demand an email describing (exactly) what an interested party wants to know and at least three days to edit and put the information together.
 

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I am very sorry you took my question wrong. In no way am I saying you are wrong. I am always trying to learn more about these tractors and thought I phrased the question in a manner where I was just looking for more information. I always try to be careful about my wording so this kind of thing does not happen. Evidently I failed this time. Please continue to provide your input. Since your tractor seems to be different than mine in that location it just made me curious.

Regarding feeling like you do not want to post any more I can say I know exactly how you feel. A while back on another forum I spent a long time making sure I worded a question so it did not offend anyone since some tractor (and car) people can be very defensive of their particular brand. As an engineer I was curious about the background for a design feature common on another brand of tractor. Again just trying to learn something. One response was very vehement. He said I was calling anyone who bought that brand stupid. It went on from there. After that I just quit posting for a while. Actually even quit looking at posts. Eventually I came back because there was still a lot of useful information being posted every day by many, and I felt I could continue to learn from that and maybe also provide a little bit of help myself to others.

So please come on back.:drinks:
 

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A pictures worth a bunch a words. And you're close enough to Randy you can probably hear him smile every time he sees a post with a picture in it.

Tackit, I can see from the picture that your toplink has dished out some dings to your seat. And on top of that, some hoodlum 3rd grade vandals have gone and put arrows all over the area with chalk! Glad it cleaned up ok :thumbup1gif:.

On my tractor, the top link holder bar thingie (and that's a technical term) was too low and the toplink hit it. I'm guessing that just starting engineers at Deere must be given toplink stowage as their first job :laugh:. I got the air ride seat with my 4520 on account of the fact that my posterior is inferior and needs to be on a seat that superior. So don't take this problem sitting down and I hope you can find some way to upgrade your seat. I assure you the end justifies the means. A little cush on the tush makes the seat time so fine.

Looking forward to your posts down the road.

Pete
 

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A pictures worth a bunch a words. And you're close enough to Randy you can probably hear him smile every time he sees a post with a picture in it.

Tackit, I can see from the picture that your toplink has dished out some dings to your seat. And on top of that, some hoodlum 3rd grade vandals have gone and put arrows all over the area with chalk! Glad it cleaned up ok :thumbup1gif:.

On my tractor, the top link holder bar thingie (and that's a technical term) was too low and the toplink hit it. I'm guessing that just starting engineers at Deere must be given toplink stowage as their first job :laugh:. I got the air ride seat with my 4520 on account of the fact that my posterior is inferior and needs to be on a seat that superior. So don't take this problem sitting down and I hope you can find some way to upgrade your seat. I assure you the end justifies the means. A little cush on the tush makes the seat time so fine.

Looking forward to your posts down the road.

Pete
Pete, you're right about a picture being worth so much. Deere is always making changes. Sometimes early designs just don't work out. A while back I shared pictures with someone having clearance issues with his deck and wide set tires. I think we determined from the pics Deere had changed the design between our two decks even though they never changed part numbers. I attach my top link pic just to show why I was curious. Evidently Deere made a change somewhere along the line.
 

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I don't even remember the location of my top link clip when I talked about putting on a new seat... I'll have to check and see. To tell you the truth where it sits never has been one of those things I try to remember or would go out in the middle of the night to check on before I commented... ..

All I know was the new seat I tried to replace the old one with was to deep and to high. It went to far back and hit the link. I don't recall my top link clip leaning that far forward as I'm typing this. I hate to lie or purposely mislead the masses or make false statements about such and important subject but it it's true.

All I know for certain was the new seat didn't work because it was to deep and to high. When I sat on it my thighs would hit the steering wheel. I guess that's why they chose to use a thin seat....maybe, perhaps, I'm not sure, don't hold me to it. I don't want to be called out for purposely and intentionally posting wrong information.

I'll see if I can find the serial number of the top link and holder and check with John Deere to see what the proper angle is of the link holder. I'm sure they have the information painted in red on the shop wall for it's such a common and important question.
 

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Pete gets the award for best describing the butt's posterior surface meeting the seat's anterior surface. :laugh:
 
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