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Discussion Starter #1
We used to have a commercial here that said that. Anyhow, here's the deal. 2004 Ford Super Duty had BFG's that started separating on me in the 40K range. Two blow outs on I95 pulling a trailer is not fun. Not to mention having to changed the dang things. Went to the local truck tire place and they highly recommended the Bridgestone A/T Revo 2 in 10 ply. So after more than a $1000 I had new tires. I did this about two years ago. A month ago the truck was hopping really bad on the rear and I took it back in. They found a separated tire and pro-rated it on wear. I have probably 25k on these tires. This past Friday I am heading up the interstate pulling a gooseneck flatbed with an 8000 pound tractor on it and truck started to shake. Before I could get stopped the tire blew. Truck tire. The tread had separated and came off the inside of the tire ripping my fender up. So two $225 tires separated within a month of each other. I did some looking around the Bridgestone A/T is complained about for several years starting in the mid 2000's. Now I gotta wonder what to do. Pro-rate I won't get much (I had to pay $169 for the first pro-rated tire that got replaced. Now I need 4 new ones since I used the factory original spare and it blew within 50 miles. I now need, 1 for the latest blown tire, 2 to replace the ones left that my pop, and 1 for a spare. Pro-rated it will still be around $1000. Or, do I use the Bridgestone I got pro-rate a month ago as the spare and buy 4 new different brand tires? I kind of want an A/T tire and not just a highway tire.

What are you guys using? Do you tow many trailers? How much weight and how often? Even my factory tires lasted over 40K before they started to separate.

I have a friend who ordered a 2004 SD off of my build sheet. He got the same BFG's and blew a front tire doing $2800 damage to his truck. He had 30K on his tires at the time.

I figure about $500 damage to my rear fender and my deductible is $500. lol
 

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I'd be talking to someone at corporate at both these tire manufactures. Something doesn't seem right with the tires doing that at 25K. Of course this assumes that they're not overloaded and the pressure is monitored regularly......... ~Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd be talking to someone at corporate at both these tire manufactures. Something doesn't seem right with the tires doing that at 25K. Of course this assumes that they're not overloaded and the pressure is monitored regularly......... ~Scotty
I had just had them rotated and rebalanced the month before. Before I left that day I checked and both rear tires were set at 80PSI which right for a load. I had the truck on the over load springs but no where near dragging the rear bumper. Should have not been to much for those tires. Triple axle trailer setting under the tractor. The first tire separated when I was running empty.
 

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Are you running the factory sized tire? It's not as much of an issue on a single rear wheel truck, but on a dually wider rear tires will run each other when loaded and cause failures. That doesn't sound like your issue, but worth mentioning for someone else that may be experiencing similar problems.

I'm running Cooper Discoverer AT3s on my 2001 F-350 dually. They're an all terrain tire with nice highway behavior. I tow regularly, and where from 5-6,000 lbs to 17-18,000 lbs (trailer and load combined). I've put as much as 20k behind it and I've been very happy with these tires. They ride well empty and loaded, and perform reasonably well off road. They're as good in the mud as any all terrain tire I've ran, but not quite as good as the Federal Couragia MTs I had before these. The Federals were an absolute nightmare on the highway though, with terrible tread life.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you running the factory sized tire? It's not as much of an issue on a single rear wheel truck, but on a dually wider rear tires will run each other when loaded and cause failures. That doesn't sound like your issue, but worth mentioning for someone else that may be experiencing similar problems.

I'm running Cooper Discoverer AT3s on my 2001 F-350 dually. They're an all terrain tire with nice highway behavior. I tow regularly, and where from 5-6,000 lbs to 17-18,000 lbs (trailer and load combined). I've put as much as 20k behind it and I've been very happy with these tires. They ride well empty and loaded, and perform reasonably well off road. They're as good in the mud as any all terrain tire I've ran, but not quite as good as the Federal Couragia MTs I had before these. The Federals were an absolute nightmare on the highway though, with terrible tread life.
Yeah, I am running the factory size tire. I am also single rear wheel and not dual. I had looked at the Cooper when I got the Bridgestones but the dealer said he recommended them over the Coopers which he sold also. Maybe he makes more on Bridgestones? lol I am not sure at this point what I am going to do yet. May go back to Michilins but I they don't have a good A/T tire the size I need.
 

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One dumb thought what kind of valve stems are your tire guys using? Not that the valve stem would affect the tire separating but could cause a blow out if they are using light duty valve on a 10ply tires at 80psi will blow the valve out.

The reason I ask is when I had 10ply tires put on my TrailBlazer they used light duty valves. I was not to concerned as I got the 10 ply tires more for fuel savings than load capacity and will probably never run the tires with more than 35-40 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One dumb thought what kind of valve stems are your tire guys using? Not that the valve stem would affect the tire separating but could cause a blow out if they are using light duty valve on a 10ply tires at 80psi will blow the valve out.

The reason I ask is when I had 10ply tires put on my TrailBlazer they used light duty valves. I was not to concerned as I got the 10 ply tires more for fuel savings than load capacity and will probably never run the tires with more than 35-40 psi.
Big ones with pressure relief valves screwed on to them. This is an old family owned tire store who deals with trucks much bigger than mine on a daily basis. Huge RV's, tractors, dump trucks, buses, you name it.

Good thought you had though. I have seen the same thing from the car tire stores trying to mess with truck tires.
 

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Something wrong with that but those numbers seem off...

I am still running the factory tires on my truck. They are generic bridgestones... and I am ALMOST to the wear bars (am sitting in Ionia Michigan right now, 600+ miles from home)...

Last week, and the week before that I blew out 2 different tires on my trailer! The first one went, and changing the tire was a PITA, as my spare was low on air. Getting a tire gauge that can properly register 100+ psi is a bear (RV tire gauge is what you want).

Anyway, I changed the tire, purchased (from across the street) a smaller compressor (I have a decent one at home, but didn't bring it with me)... by the way I had JUST refilled all my trailer tires to 85PSI, because they max at 90PSI cold, and I figured 85 was correct... they were 10 ply tires.

When we took it to get replaced, we asked (since the tires looked BRAND NEW, and we purchased our trailer used 2 years ago, and its a 2004, and we KNEW they weren't original tires)... if the tires were OK, as we had 3 more on the trailer if they were OK (asking specifically about dry rot!)... NO PROBLEM they said...

Next week no interstate 83, we blew one out on the other side, grumble grumble...

4 tires later, we upgraded from 10ply E rated to 12 ply F rated, and went with Carlise tires... Jury is still out on them, but so far I like them (and I remounted my spare with a new spare, and topped all THESE up to 90psi, because the F rated ones are at 95psi cold)....

Finally last thing I'll tell you is the onboard computers telling you the PSI of your truck tires, are WAY off! Or rather they are accurate, but only update every couple minutes... with cold air coming in the PSI in the tires lowers... My trucks E rated 10 ply were reading 72psi... and they are rated to 85psi... I inflated to 80psi, before we left, and it took some of the buckle out of them.

The gooseneck of my trailer puts about #2200 in the bed of my 2500. We put Timbrens on the truck as helpers to level the truck some... but we only have singles, not doubles on the back of our 2500. My concern is blowing out a rear while towing (that's gotta be a lot of fun!).

So basically what I am saying is you likely had some pressure issues going on before the blow out... any tiny variation can cause a massive catastrophic failure... I'd expect BFG to have a pretty decent quality, and not really do this if inflated properly.

I've become a tire freak lately... and frankly also bearing freak... because this stuff is just to dangerous to leave to chance.. I am always topping off all 5 tires on the trailer and also 4 on the truck. here's our rig:
 

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I am still running the factory tires on my truck. They are generic bridgestones... and I am ALMOST to the wear bars (am sitting in Ionia Michigan right now, 600+ miles from home)...
I hope you are not serving time. I don't know of to much else to do in Ionia, MI.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am still running the factory tires on my truck. They are generic bridgestones... and I am ALMOST to the wear bars (am sitting in Ionia Michigan right now, 600+ miles from home)...

Last week, and the week before that I blew out 2 different tires on my trailer! The first one went, and changing the tire was a PITA, as my spare was low on air. Getting a tire gauge that can properly register 100+ psi is a bear (RV tire gauge is what you want).

Anyway, I changed the tire, purchased (from across the street) a smaller compressor (I have a decent one at home, but didn't bring it with me)... by the way I had JUST refilled all my trailer tires to 85PSI, because they max at 90PSI cold, and I figured 85 was correct... they were 10 ply tires.

When we took it to get replaced, we asked (since the tires looked BRAND NEW, and we purchased our trailer used 2 years ago, and its a 2004, and we KNEW they weren't original tires)... if the tires were OK, as we had 3 more on the trailer if they were OK (asking specifically about dry rot!)... NO PROBLEM they said...

Next week no interstate 83, we blew one out on the other side, grumble grumble...

4 tires later, we upgraded from 10ply E rated to 12 ply F rated, and went with Carlise tires... Jury is still out on them, but so far I like them (and I remounted my spare with a new spare, and topped all THESE up to 90psi, because the F rated ones are at 95psi cold)....

Finally last thing I'll tell you is the onboard computers telling you the PSI of your truck tires, are WAY off! Or rather they are accurate, but only update every couple minutes... with cold air coming in the PSI in the tires lowers... My trucks E rated 10 ply were reading 72psi... and they are rated to 85psi... I inflated to 80psi, before we left, and it took some of the buckle out of them.

The gooseneck of my trailer puts about #2200 in the bed of my 2500. We put Timbrens on the truck as helpers to level the truck some... but we only have singles, not doubles on the back of our 2500. My concern is blowing out a rear while towing (that's gotta be a lot of fun!).

So basically what I am saying is you likely had some pressure issues going on before the blow out... any tiny variation can cause a massive catastrophic failure... I'd expect BFG to have a pretty decent quality, and not really do this if inflated properly.

I've become a tire freak lately... and frankly also bearing freak... because this stuff is just to dangerous to leave to chance.. I am always topping off all 5 tires on the trailer and also 4 on the truck. here's our rig:
Carlisle makes a good trailer tire in my opinion.

I have been doing some research and it seems tires are really only good for about 4 years. That is, they still meet their original spec. Not to say you can't get more life depending on a lot of factors. My Bridgestones are maybe two years old. I will have to look at the receipt again. No auto pressure readings in my truck. Too old.

Two of the original BFG's still held air but the belt stuck up about two inches. The one I tried to use for a spare this time went 40 miles and blew like a cannon.

I am going to try and get to the tire store tomorrow and see what they have to say. Fortunately for me I had a redundant truck and had someone bring it to me.

I have always been kind of anal about checking and topping my tires off with air as needed.
 

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When were these tires manufactured? There is a datecode on the tire sidewall. After 5 or 6 years the rubber starts breaking down. It doesn't matter if the tires sat on a shelf at the dealer for 5 years before they installed them, they are still five years old. I had a set of Coopers separate a few years ago. They were about 5 or 6 years old, but they were only on my truck for three years or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When were these tires manufactured? There is a datecode on the tire sidewall. After 5 or 6 years the rubber starts breaking down. It doesn't matter if the tires sat on a shelf at the dealer for 5 years before they installed them, they are still five years old. I had a set of Coopers separate a few years ago. They were about 5 or 6 years old, but they were only on my truck for three years or so.
I will have to check. I know they ordered them from the warehouse but who knows how long they had sat at the warehouse.
 

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I have had good luck with cooper st's on my dodge 2500. The ST's are a good tire but suck in the snow, so I wont be getting anther set.

I have cooper AT 3's on my Colorado, they seem to be a good all around tire. I did cut one a few weeks ago, but I was driving in the woods at the time, a stick went through the side wall. I may buy these again.:unknown:
 

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Another vote for Cooper tires, I have them on my truck. I wouldn't hesitate to buy them again. Carlisle and Goodyear have a good reputation for trailer tires. My next set of trailer tires (soon) will be Carlisle tires from Miller Tire, one of our vendors here. They have a really good price on them.
 

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Both of my F-250s have come with Firestones on them. Ran both sets 85,000 miles! The first set, the tire failure and rollovers with FS were in the news, so I didn't go back with FS, but went with Goodyear. Within the first 18,000 miles, I'd had TWO of them separate. So, replaced all 4 with Michelins. When I got over 85,000 on the factory set of FS on my '03 F-250, I went with Michelins. I have a light traction tire, so not as aggressive as a true traction tire, but not as smooth as a touring tire. I always have a load on the truck, and sometimes add a trailer to that. I can put over 85,000 on the tires. I really like the Michelins, but might look at Firestone again, if I couldn't get my Michelins, due to the service, I have had from them.
 

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I ran a set of Coopers on one of my truck back in the late 90s, and got close to 70,000 miles out of them. For a full sized diesel truck, that's impressive! We run Bridgestone/ Firestone Transforce tires on the work trucks, and are lucky to get 40K on a set.
 

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Both of my F-250s have come with Firestones on them. Ran both sets 85,000 miles! The first set, the tire failure and rollovers with FS were in the news, so I didn't go back with FS, but went with Goodyear. Within the first 18,000 miles, I'd had TWO of them separate. So, replaced all 4 with Michelins. When I got over 85,000 on the factory set of FS on my '03 F-250, I went with Michelins. I have a light traction tire, so not as aggressive as a true traction tire, but not as smooth as a touring tire. I always have a load on the truck, and sometimes add a trailer to that. I can put over 85,000 on the tires. I really like the Michelins, but might look at Firestone again, if I couldn't get my Michelins, due to the service, I have had from them.
I was working for a Firestone dealer during the time of the blow out and roll over issue happened. Ford was just as much to blame as Firestone. The problem started when the Explore has suspension issues. If I remember correctly the tire pressure started out at 35 psi and then ford decided to drop it down to a recommended 32 psi. With the lower psi the tires built up a lot more heat and were blow out prone. The rollovers IMHO came a bunch of people that had never driven truck type vehicles before that were now driving a truck with a blow out and did not know what to do or how to handle it.

We put tons of those tires on other trucks and where was never any issues.
 

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Granted my 1999 F-250 SD lives a pampered life compared to most of the truck owners here; but I replaced the less than stellar OEM Firestone All-Seasons after 10+ years of service with Michelin All-Terrains. So far I'm happy with the Michelins as I've always had good luck with the brand; but I have noticed the A/T tread pattern has reduced gas mileage about 1 - 2 MPG over the Firestone A/S tires.

Since my F-250 has the limited slip rear axle that adds 1,000 pounds of payload capacity; the truck uses a larger E rated tire than a run of the mill F-250. I call mine the F-250.5 as it's closer to a F-350.

I guess I'm questioning the 80 PSI inflation pressure the OP is using. Just because a tire is rated at 90 PSI doesn't mean it should be inflated to or near the max. I just follow the door sticker as I feel Ford's engineer's are far smarter than I ever will be. My F-250 calls for 50 PSI front, and 60 PSI rear.

I'm curious as to what is causing this many tire failures.
 

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I know there are a lot of votes for Cooper but I had one come apart and get my fender. They did pay for the damage but still....


I ran BFGs for years but the last set didn't wear right, cost me 2 mpg and off road traction was not as good as in the past.

Installed now on my '97 Powerstroke is a set of Firestone Discoverer ATs. Love this tire. Traction is much better than the BFG, wear seems to be in check and my fuel mileage is back to what it was prior to the BFGs.
 

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Granted my 1999 F-250 SD lives a pampered life compared to most of the truck owners here; but I replaced the less than stellar OEM Firestone All-Seasons after 10+ years of service with Michelin All-Terrains. So far I'm happy with the Michelins as I've always had good luck with the brand; but I have noticed the A/T tread pattern has reduced gas mileage about 1 - 2 MPG over the Firestone A/S tires.

Since my F-250 has the limited slip rear axle that adds 1,000 pounds of payload capacity; the truck uses a larger E rated tire than a run of the mill F-250. I call mine the F-250.5 as it's closer to a F-350.

I guess I'm questioning the 80 PSI inflation pressure the OP is using. Just because a tire is rated at 90 PSI doesn't mean it should be inflated to or near the max. I just follow the door sticker as I feel Ford's engineer's are far smarter than I ever will be. My F-250 calls for 50 PSI front, and 60 PSI rear.

I'm curious as to what is causing this many tire failures.
All of the current 3/4+ trucks come with E-rated tires. The payload war has led them to all have increased payload and GVWR. My 08 F250 is at 10K GVWR. And, quite honestly, is only rated at 10K to save on registration. They offer the 10K rating on the F350 SRW truck for people who don't want to pay the registration fees on the higher GVWR. My truck is at 8400 lbs with a full tank of fuel and driver. So, the 10K rating better be low or you really cant put in a pin weight on the bed!

That said, the E rated tires typically have an 80 lb max pressure marked on them. For the 16-18" tires to support the GAWR on these trucks, the big three mark all of the 3/4+ ton trucks to run at 80 front 80 rear now. My father who has a Chevy 2500 refuses to comply. He hates the ride at 80 and is never running anywhere near capacity. The consequence is that he runs at or near the low tire pressure alarm setting (I think around 65 PSI) so he has to watch his pressure or deal with a warning light.

Now here is a twist, I have the 20" tires on my truck. At 80 PSI their rated load is higher. My truck calls for 65 PSI front/rear. When I am towing (and withough question have more than the 10K GVW on the 4 tires) I run the back tires at 75. In between trips, I tend to leave them up which yields a rough ride. But avoids changing tire pressure week to week.

The reality is, to get the rated GAWR that they need, the standard size 16-18" LRE tires they are using are running at capacity. At capacity, forces you to that max PSI. I have the same issue on my camper. It has 16" LRE LT tires on it. Many question that choice. The factory put those tires on there. I like that they are rated above 60 MPH. ST tires are not rated to run above 60. Speaking of date codes, my OEM tires had an 08 date stamp. I think it was around the 30th week, which is not bad for a camper assembled in August of 08. Basically, they came straight from China to Indiana where they were put on my camper. In June of this year, running at about 60 MPH I had my first blowout. I had only traveled about 45 miles since I checked the tire pressure. Had them at the "stickered pressure" of 80 PSI. To my knowledge I did not hit any road hazard. I was not making an lane changes or near the road edge.

IMAG0167.jpg

The other 3 tires looked perfect. I replaced all 4. Bottom line is what was said early, a 5 year old tire (especially those manufactured in China) is a timebomb. My truck has the OEM Goodyears on it with 53K miles. I am shopping for tires. They are also 5 years old. But, as mentioned earlier are running at 2/3 rated load most of the time. I don't know what corner they are cutting, but clearly something has changed and the current tire manufacturing process yields tires with built-in timers!

Lee
 
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