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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is another question from a 2520 newbie. How do I know if my rear wheels are mounted in the wide position? It looks like the difference between narrow and wide is pretty small. I have the R4 tires and measured the track width yesterday. Fom the outside of the tire to the outside of the other side, it was something like 50 or 51 inches (can't remember exactly). I know it was wider than 48 inches.

I've read alot about putting the rear wheels in the wide position but never seen any dimensions. Thanks.
 

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The easiest way to tell would be to measure the depth of the rim on each side. If the rim is not as deep on the inside, they are in the narrow position. You need to measure from the outside of the rim to the mouting point on the axle.:good2:
 

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Well,there is an even easier way just by looking. If the wheel around the bolt pattern is convex (outward) or concave (inward). Concave,they are in the wider position.


Greg
 

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Well,there is an even easier way just by looking. If the wheel around the bolt pattern is convex (outward) or concave (inward). Concave,they are in the wider position.


Greg
The valve stems are also on the inside in the wide position aren't they Greg?
 

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Ken,well that's even an easier way yet! Yeah, the stems are on the inside!:thumbup1gif:

Greg
 

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That must be for just the 2 piece wheels ?

My (1 piece 790 wheels) mounted wide stance have the stems on the outside. :unknown:
No,these are one piece wheels also.

Greg
 

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The one piece wheels on my 755 are mounted wide set on the rear, and narrow set on the front. All four valve stems are on the inside.
 

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No,these are one piece wheels also.

Greg
For the R4 tires anyway...and on the 2520 for sure.


Will:
It's not a "blanket statement" the stems on the inside are wide position-but the R4 rims used on the 2520 are this way.
 

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Turfs are the ones that usually provide the largest increase in width when reversed.
 

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Is there an advantage to having them in the wide position other than stability? How much wider is the stance and is it worth the effort? I have never changed a tire on a tractor before but they do look heavy. Mine are not loaded.
 

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Is there an advantage to having them in the wide position other than stability? How much wider is the stance and is it worth the effort? I have never changed a tire on a tractor before but they do look heavy. Mine are not loaded.
Stability and clearance for chains if needed are the two main reason. I think with the R4 rims it's only about 2" of difference or so.

Done properly-you never have to lift the heavy tires...just jack it up just enough to take the weight off them then remove the bolts, you can then just roll the tire away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well,there is an even easier way just by looking. If the wheel around the bolt pattern is convex (outward) or concave (inward). Concave,they are in the wider position.


Greg
Thanks to everyone for the help. Mine are convex out so they must be in the narrow position. I'm not sure when I will have time to switch to the wide position but since I have the R4s, it sounds like I won't gain alot anyway. Thanks again!
 

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Just went to the wide position with my tires. Difference is 2" but I also noticed that it gives a bit more clearance from the lift arms which would seem to be a good thing.
 

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I second what ttammag1 said. I switched mine out this weekend. Took about 15-20 minutes with my impact wrench and 3 ton floor jack (and stands JIC). Overall tire width went from 51.5" to 53.5" (guess I really need to think about upgrading to a 54 " blower).

Since we just rec'd ours on Friday, I hadn't had time to play with the turnbuckles on the 3 pt arms but I did note once I removed the PHD, the arm on the right hand side was able to rub against the tire (prior to switching them) and I have the improved arms. It does not rub anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I finally had some time to attempt some leveling work with my 2520 and rear blade. It was then that I realized the importance of setting the tires to the wide position because, about half the time, the blade would cause the lift arms to shift to one side and rub the tires as I backed up. I seem to be a bit more mechanically inept every day, so I wondered if anyone had photos of their attempt to switch the tires. I know that you need to jack up both sides at the same time but I only have one decent jack. However, I do have a pretty stout set of jack stands. Would jack stands work to keep the tractor from falling over?

Thanks again.
 

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ttammag1,

This is what I did. Not saying it is the best way or the only way, just the way I did it. I placed my floor jack under the right hand axle housing and raised the right hand side about 1.5 to 2 inches off the ground. Just inside the axle housing (closer to the center of the tractor) is a 'T' bar. This is where I placed my jack stand. I lowered the floor jack, bringing the tractor onto the jack stand and leaving the tire about 1/2 to 3/4 of inch off the floor. On the left hand side, I did the same except I left my floor jack in place with some load on the jack stand, just in case the floor jack would slip. I then switched the tires. Once all the lugs were tightened, I went to the left hand side, raised the floor jack, removed the jack stand and then lowered the floor jack til the left tire was on the floor. I then moved the floor jack to the right hand side, lifted the floor jack and axle enough to remove the jack stand and then lowered the floor jack until the tire was on the floor. I finished up by tightening the lugs one last time.

I recognize you had asked for pics and if you would like, I can provide some tomorrow evening if you still wish. Just let me know.


lost
 

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Switching tires

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm new around here and was wondering why my chains were going to rub on the 3 pt hitch lift arms. Now I know I have to move my tires to the wide position. I will do it Friday when I'm off. Thanks again guys.:thumbup1gif:
 
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