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Bought the 6' model and used it behind my 1025R today. I've got a lot to learn. It did some good in digging up some thatch, but not nearly all of it. It tended to bounce a time or two and that may have been a result of how I set it up, so I'm asking for advice. I was mowing at the same time, and had the mower set at about 4" which of course affected the rake. What should the set up be? Is it a mistake to mow at the same time? Does it matter? Is there a way I should set the three point hitch to affect a certain angle on the rake? I have the wheel set, but the wheels weren't touching the ground while I was using it. Any help will be appreciated.
 

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first off what are you trying to accomplish with it?

i assume your using what i call a "rock rake" a picture would help as implements are called different things ...but i googleed titan landscape rake ...and it WAS what i call a rock rake..

before i comment further need answers to the above questions.....no need to type a book that doesnt apply to your application


FWIW..on a rock rake...shortning the top link will cause less dig in and bounce....lengthening the TL of course the opposite (more aggressive, more dig in, dig in causes bounce)....the lower tractor drop links to the lower arms tend to work the same way..set to the slotted or float position is less aggressive and should be the go to default setting........rake angle tends to be a windrow setting for moveable debris like rocks but more angle is a less agressive setting also...

but i have no clue what you would be trying to accomplish using a rock rake behind a mower while mowing......

a rock rake is designed to do some ground leveling and raking out large rocks and debris from loose topsoil to prepare for planting ....i have used one before to rake up sticks and debris in short grass but it was short strokes to a pile

(oops did a short book)
 

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Yes

It is the Titan 6' model, what you might call a rock rake. What I want to do is level off some of the bumps and low spots in the lawn that I have to mow. My hope is that if I drag it around enough I can do some leveling.
 

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It is the Titan 6' model, what you might call a rock rake. What I want to do is level off some of the bumps and low spots in the lawn that I have to mow. My hope is that if I drag it around enough I can do some leveling.

I have used one a lot on many surfaces....

if you are trying to dig with it you need to set it agressively...but its going to dig in and bounce and pull up dirt clods when it catches they really do not work well on established soil with dirt..........you probably need someting more like a spike tooth harrow to do that

if you set it very NON-aggressive it will not dig in and bounce but really will not do much with established dirt and soil...

on the other hand if you bring in loads of loose top soil a rock rake will spread and level it and screen out debris .....you really only need to use the angle if you had a lot of loose top soil with debris and you want to drive long runs and rake it into windrows

i imagine if your mowing and pulling it behind while mowing obviously you have grass so its going to want to pull up clumps of grass and clog with those clumps of grass but it will scratch up the bare spots a bit but probably not move much dirt wise just scratch and jump on the high spots

one option is to turn it around a full 180deg and see if it will work for you (more of just a smoothing setting)

i would probably start with the top link in its shortest position and adjust from there

good luck ...hope you find a workable solution....sounds like a trial n error situation
 

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:munch: As I also have a King Kutter and would be interested in the direction you go.
I've thought about unbolting all the tines and re-attaching them 180* out, that would put the angle bar on the right side for most gauge wheel setups. Problem with that is, it doesn't leave much support for the tines. Also was think of just notching the angle bar, for where I want the gauge wheels to fit. Unsure as of yet.
 

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I've thought about unbolting all the tines and re-attaching them 180* out, that would put the angle bar on the right side for most gauge wheel setups. Problem with that is, it doesn't leave much support for the tines. Also was think of just notching the angle bar, for where I want the gauge wheels to fit. Unsure as of yet.
my old rock rake will rotate 360deg so you can rake in reverse/or pull it backwards......i did that a few times raking sticks and debris but i was raking up piles going in reverse i dont remember trying to pull it with the teeth reversed .......my old rock rake doesnt have gage wheels on it i just use the draft control on the tractor...
 

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my old rock rake will rotate 360deg so you can rake in reverse/or pull it backwards......i did that a few times raking sticks and debris but i was raking up piles going in reverse i dont remember trying to pull it with the teeth reversed .......my old rock rake doesnt have gage wheels on it i just use the draft control on the tractor...
Mine rotates 360° as well. What I am talking about, is for mounting gauge wheels.
If you see how those gauge wheels mount, you'll understand what I'm getting at.
 

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Mine rotates 360° as well. What I am talking about, is for mounting gauge wheels.
If you see how those gauge wheels mount, you'll understand what I'm getting at.
I would be cautious of that ...my rock rake breaks tines but i use it alot and agressively......if you turned them around at the least i would re drill holes closer to the back of angle or figure out another way to help support them not so close to the edge..

just curious how do you change the tines up in the boxed in area if you need to (bolt heads welded)???

FWIW ...i have never seen a RR used with gage wheels ...im not sure in my mind what they would gain you it would be similar to putting gage wheels on a rear blade ....
 

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I would be cautious of that ...my rock rake breaks tines but i use it alot and agressively......if you turned them around at the least i would re drill holes closer to the back of angle or figure out another way to help support them not so close to the edge..

just curious how do you change the tines up in the boxed in area if you need to (bolt heads welded)???
That's what i was saying. If I flipped them around, it doesn't look like they will have much support, definitely not as much as it is now. But, that is where the idea of just notching the upright angle side, came about. Problem there is, will there be enough room behind the tines, for the gauge wheels to spin freely, 360*? I dunno. Titans site says they are 18" long, i have no idea what that number represents? I think it would be close.

A box wrench, and a piece of tape to hold the bolt, or nut? I dunno, I haven't had to change any yet. But yeah, not the best laid out design, huh.
 
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