Yea, I'm with you!! But it really does need lights on it, it's pretty big. A convenient excuse!! It's nice therapy also!! After I get out of the rig,I need to de-compress!!I am just glad that someone else was neurotic enough to think it needed lights. Nothing feels better than knowing your not alone.👍
You put a box on the tkv20 with the female end to go directly to the tractor? Also, did you have to take the right rear wheel off to get the black fake tank off to install the switch?It's not that bad actually. Once you do it the next one is always faster and quicker. I really like being able to connect all the wiring thru the RV connector. I will be listing what I used and the color coding for the tractor wiring as soon as I can. I want to get the lights on the bagger while I have some time. As an added bonus, I can now move around/ check the lights and brakes on my utility trailer, and dump trailersand not have to use my truck.
By the way, the bagger it's self with the redesigned boot is GREAT!! It takes everything the 72" deck can throw at it!!
I think you answered your own question when you mentioned the cruise controls wires sit on top of the hydralic lines towards the pedals. The new harness will be enclosed in the protective wrap, at least it would be if i were doing it, like in your pictures and that will provide insulation from the heat anyway.I am still trying to figure out that once you have the inner fender off, that once you drop down under the platform instead of following the cruise control wiring back and taking off the panel next to the seat, why you just don't follow the hydraulic lines up the inner fender to the switch. Now, I thought about heat from the hydraulic lines melting the wires, but the cruise control wiring sits right on top of them towards the pedals. It would cut alot of time out of the process.
any idea how the hole got in there?I somehow got a small tear in the fabric cover on my TKV 20:
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So I ordered a patch kit, got it patched yesterday.
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Cleaned both sides with alcohol, applied the clear patch in the kit to the bottom:
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Applied the Seamgrip, I've used this before for camping gear, it creates a waterproof, flexible seal, I've been very happy with it in the past.
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I had mowing to do yesterday, so I covered the patch with a cup to keep debris off of the wet adhesive, and let it set for 2 hours.
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Finally I applied the black patch on top, and off I went.
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Mowed for about 3 hours yesterday, it held up great. Here's the link to the kit in case anyone needs it:
You will love the new boot. I have one for the 72D and 60D.I have never had the old boot, so I have nothing to compare it to except my old HDMCS, with a 7" hose. I've only plugged it when testing it in 5 foot high hay!!! Been mowing 6-18" high grass with the 72D throwing everything I could at it(moving at a good pace), and the boot and bagger just keep taking it !!! Now I wish they made one with a larger capacity!! You do have to wash the inside viewing plate for the fill sensor every once in a while, or the fill sensor starts to go wonkie.Just ordered the new boot, will update once I try it out, but I have high hopes. My current boot always has grass built up in the front corner when I finish mowing, I'm really hoping the new one won't.