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Used the 53 inch front blade for the first time today clearing about 6 inches of snow from the drive. Tractor did not like turning into a drift and was easily pushed to the side if I took too large a bite with the blade angled. Took about half the weight out of the ballast box and that helped but I think I need to load the tires. The blade is surprisingly light and unsprung weight down low would help I think. Anyone else experience this?
 

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I just did my first snow clearing today with a 47" front blower in 7" of wet snow. The blower performed great but my experience was similar in turns. It threw the snow well in a straight line but curves presented a problem. I found navigating the curve with a light foot on the forward pedal and a hand on the control to raise the blower helped a lot. But I really couldn't make a tight turn and blow snow. More annoying was the reverse switch for the PTO that kept stalling me out when I was backing up.
 

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My 47" blower came with a wiring harness that plugs into the tractor and the pto sensor. It overides the PTO switch allowing you to back up without having to hold up on the RIO knob. If you look at the front left side in the engine compartment, forward of the engine mount pad, one end of the pig-tail will plug into the tractor's wiring harness and the other will plug into the plug located on the blowers pto sensor housing. Sorry if my description is confusing...I can take pictures if you guys want. The harness is between $70 and $80.
 
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My 47" blower came with a wiring harness that plugs into the tractor and the pto sensor. It overides the PTO switch allowing you to back up without having to hold up on the RIO knob. If you look at the front left side in the engine compartment, forward of the engine mount pad, one end of the pig-tail will plug into the tractor's wiring harness and the other will plug into the plug located on the blowers pto sensor housing. Sorry if my description is confusing...I can take pictures if you guys want. The harness is between $70 and $80.

Or just disable the RIO altogether as has been discussed and documented here. :hide:
 
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Mark, the 54" blades are light, so you don't need as much rear ballast like when your using the loader. I don't think the front tires are big enough to matter if you filled them. If the snow you had was like the rest of the country had, it was super wet and heavy, I think you will have better luck in a normal snow.

There are a couple threads on the RIO issue...
 

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Was your blade floating or with down pressure? My Polaris Scrambler and 54" plow had the same issue. I Sat a 5 gallon bucket of sand in the dead space in front of the bumper, but behind the blade. The extra weight helped. I don't have the front blade for the 1026R so I don't know, but is it possible to hang some suitcase weights up there? I assume the weight bracket won't fit with the blade mount on. It'd be nice if the brush guard had suitcase weight slots. 200lbs hanging over the wheels, but not on the blade would really help keep you straight. I know the angle feature is pretty useless on my quad.....

-636
 

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Used the 53 inch front blade for the first time today clearing about 6 inches of snow from the drive. Tractor did not like turning into a drift and was easily pushed to the side if I took too large a bite with the blade angled. Took about half the weight out of the ballast box and that helped but I think I need to load the tires. The blade is surprisingly light and unsprung weight down low would help I think. Anyone else experience this?
Like KennyD said, You don't need the ballast box when plowing with the blade. I have removed mine for the winter. On Dec. 20th we got 8 -9 inches of the very heavy wet stuff and my 1023 did a great job on the asphalt. Right down to the bone with that squeegee on the blade. You do have to put her in the float position though. There is a learning curve as far as making those turns with a load of snow in front of the blade. You need the right amount of angle on the blade and don't go to sharp on the turn.

P1060086.JPG
 

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I am finding my 1026r dosnt turn very well with the 54" blower down, even in "float". I have found it steers better when in 4x4.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Trying to cover everyone here.

1. Blade was in float. Tractor in 4WD
2. Ballast box was on (took half the weight out). It was on based on some threads I've read that the 1026R is a bit light in the back end for good traction. I'll just drop it now and see how it does.
3. Snow was not extremely wet.
4. Adjusting things in order to adapt is not all that difficult but they are adjustments I'd rather not have to make as they slow things down a bit.
5. Like Ashokan1 straight ahead is no problem. Turns are a PITA. It was faster to angle them off rather than drive thru following the curve.

Diesel can you link the RIO thread? That thing is going to take about 2 minutes to get old this coming summer.
 

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From the linked thread: It is also worth noting that if you disconnect the switch and switch the ignition to START, the LCD will display REVERSE SENSOR ERROR. The tractor knows to look for that switch during POST!
Which is why (without actually looking at the schematic) there is a pair of contacts, one normally open and one normally closed. BTW, for those non electrical folks, NO and NC refer the to state of the switch as it is unmounted out of the box. The normal operating designation for those contacts, since it is in the depressed position at rest or under forward operation, would be normally open held closed and normally closed held open.

Thanks for showing the location of the switch diesel. Because it is a dual contact switch your solution of maintaining it in the depressed position is preferable. Good job.
 

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Which is why (without actually looking at the schematic) there is a pair of contacts, one normally open and one normally closed. BTW, for those non electrical folks, NO and NC refer the to state of the switch as it is unmounted out of the box. The normal operating designation for those contacts, since it is in the depressed position at rest or under forward operation, would be normally open held closed and normally closed held open.

Thanks for showing the location of the switch diesel. Because it is a dual contact switch your solution of maintaining it in the depressed position is preferable. Good job.
I can't take credit for that my friend. GADeereHunter was the OP in that thread. :drinks:
 

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I am finding my 1026r dosnt turn very well with the 54" blower down, even in "float". I have found it steers better when in 4x4.
The more weight you take off the front wheels the less your steering response will be. I snow blow (54") with my 1023E in 4wd with the blower in float. When going straight and wanting to get down to bare pavement I set blower to slight down force. Down force will take the tractor weight off the front tires lessing traction and ability to steer. I have high density thermoplastic polyethylene skies on the blower shoes for less drag and wear against my black top. I ordered the plastic from tapplastics.com. Blocks of plastic are 2 5/8"x 7 1/4" x 1/2" thick. A bit of heat to form lead in's and a couple holes to mount is all thats required. The high density thermoplastic polyethylene reduces friction and helps steering a lot when floating a 54" snowblower. My initial setting with shoes spacing the bottom cutting edge 3/8" to 1/2" off the pavements seems good. As high density thermoplastic Polyethylene shoes wear adjustments will be necessary. Time will tell how long they last. To date I only have 3 events blowing the driveway, but it's early yet.....
 

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I am finding my 1026r dosnt turn very well with the 54" blower down, even in "float". I have found it steers better when in 4x4.
I too was concerned about steering with the 54" blower on my 2720. I was able to use it for the first time today and it steered very well in the float position. I have the front and rear R4 tires loaded and have chains all the way around - and of course I was in 4WD.

Blower.jpg
 
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