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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My top link on my 3720 is the manual screw-type of link. It is getting harder to turn as I adjust my box blade for different chores. Rather than just squirting grease on it to lube it up (and taking a chance that all sorts of crud will attach to the threads) what do you folks use to keep the threads lubed for ease of use?

Nothing in the manual even suggests thread lubrication, just the balls. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Scott
 

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Back before I purchased a Hydro toplink I had the same issue. The first thing i did was unscrew it as far as I could and sprayed it down with PB Blaster. That took all the rust off. Then I started to use Penetro and I never had the issue again. The dirt that did accumulate from dust on the threads that were shown at the time would wipe off easily and it worked like new. I love that stuff!
 

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Nothing in the manual even suggests thread lubrication, just the balls. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Cant remember if mine has grease fittings or not...but yeah mines all gummed up as well....
She's adjusted for winter use so I'll leave the grease crud on there for winter protection :laugh: and next spring I'm gonna do exactly what Brian mentioned...
Prolly just degrease with my ol faithful "B-52" and then lube it with Kroil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just read about Fluid Film. Any thoughts on this stuff?

Scott
 

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I just read about Fluid Film. Any thoughts on this stuff?

Scott
I like it and have become a big believer of it. It is worth looking into.:thumbup1gif:
 

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I used anti-seize on it.. Occasionally i wiped it off with a paper towel and re-applied.. worked OK. Now i have a HTL, never plan to go back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I used anti-seize on it.. Occasionally i wiped it off with a paper towel and re-applied.. worked OK. Now i have a HTL, never plan to go back.
Randy and Aaron:

Thanks for the thumbs up on the Fluid Film, I think I'll try it.

Aaron: What tractor do you have with the HTL, and how do you control the HTL, off your FEL lever or some other lever? Also, did you install the plumbing for the HTL or is this something a dealer does? I am not good at hydraulic work so I wouldn't want to try anything involved. I just changed ALL the fluids/most filters on this sucker and that was a learning process. I'm glad I did it but a little nerve-wracking the first time though.

Scott
 

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Another huge :thumbup1gif: for Fluid Film. It is a little expensive, but because it has no solvents in it-it last's a LONG time. I use it on just about everything.
 

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Aaron: What tractor do you have with the HTL, and how do you control the HTL, off your FEL lever or some other lever? Also, did you install the plumbing for the HTL or is this something a dealer does? I am not good at hydraulic work so I wouldn't want to try anything involved. I just changed ALL the fluids/most filters on this sucker and that was a learning process. I'm glad I did it but a little nerve-wracking the first time though.

Scott
Well... though this is a Deere forum I am a traitor and run a Bobcat CT230. Not out of any real preference for the brand. I just jumped on a deal i couldn't refuse (i honestly want too impressed with the local Deere dealer neither). Interestingly enough the same happened with my excavator. Go figure.

I installed a rear remote to control the HTL. IMO if you can do a full fluid swap, at least on my machine installing the rear remote is within your capability. Nothing more than installing a few parts. If your not familiar the rear remotes, they add a separate hydraulic circuit with its own control. I only have one remote right now but when the day comes that I need another, rather than disconnect the HTL, I'll install another. There was no savings installing both at the same time so i decided to wait.

If you don't already have any rear remotes, there should be plenty of help from the others.. The installation would make a great post also :munch:
 

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I had the same issue with OEM manual top-link. I even somehow wrecked the threads on it and had to get a new one.

Now that I have a hydraulic top-link, I'd never go back to the manual kind.

Here's how I handled the hydraulics issue, and I hope these links inspire confidence in the OP that maybe he can handle doing his own hydraulic work. I never did any until I installed my remotes and top-link. It's all a matter of taking one's time and being careful.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjncad/HydraulicsUpgrades#

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjncad/TopNTilt#
 

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I had the same issue with OEM manual top-link. I even somehow wrecked the threads on it and had to get a new one.

Now that I have a hydraulic top-link, I'd never go back to the manual kind.

Here's how I handled the hydraulics issue, and I hope these links inspire confidence in the OP that maybe he can handle doing his own hydraulic work. I never did any until I installed my remotes and top-link. It's all a matter of taking one's time and being careful.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjncad/HydraulicsUpgrades#

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjncad/TopNTilt#
mjncad, I reviewed your pics, and your installation seems good and the pics are quite interesting. I have a hydraulic top link (not installed yet), i have a 3rd SCV and I installed Power Beyond.

So I could install 4th and 5th SCV running off the Power Beyond - I actually did not think of that at all. I dunno what I was thinking but that seems like a good alternative idea.
 

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So I could install 4th and 5th SCV running off the Power Beyond - I actually did not think of that at all. I dunno what I was thinking but that seems like a good alternative idea.
Lemme know if you go any further....I'd like to add 4th/5th/6th (possibly 7th as well, permanently plumbed to my HTL) SCV's, but I just havent been able to find an elegant way to get it all back there. Form & Function need to go hand in hand...
 

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Sure, i will talk it over with my local Deere tech first. BTW, anyone have the costs for the parts to add a 4th - 6t SCV?
 

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Thanks Nuru. I've maxed out the number of remotes using factory kits. If I want anymore, I'll need to make my own.
 

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Howdy
New guy here, but here is a little trick I learned......... I like to use gray/silver anti-seize, just because it was the first bottle I bought.......

You know those small grease guns that come with machinery and are pretty much totally useless. I got a couple of them (new) in a box of stuff from a garage sale. I loaded one with copper colored anti-seize. I changed to the copper colored kind because it runs through the grease gun easier in cold weather than the gray/silver kind.

Works for me.
Wyo
 

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Howdy
New guy here, but here is a little trick I learned......... I like to use gray/silver anti-seize, just because it was the first bottle I bought.......

You know those small grease guns that come with machinery and are pretty much totally useless. I got a couple of them (new) in a box of stuff from a garage sale. I loaded one with copper colored anti-seize. I changed to the copper colored kind because it runs through the grease gun easier in cold weather than the gray/silver kind.

Works for me.
Wyo
Welcome to DT Wyo:thumbup1gif:
 
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