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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I damaged one wheel on my 17P cart yesterday, which dumped me down the rabbit hole of replacement options. I'm having a very difficult time coming up with a good solution and I'm getting frustrated. I'd love to end up with flat free tires or at least tubes to not fight with the tubeless tires ever again. But Brinly wants $107 for a new wheel; which would also require the purchase of two tubes and installation at a tire shop on top of it.
A new 17cf Brinly poly cart is $380 delivered.
But I already built custom racks for the 17P, reinforced the Tow bar, and chained down the weak dump mechanism. Even a new cart will have all these shortcomings that will need to be addressed. I haul a lot of stone and split oak regularly.
I have yet to find a heavy duty cart that addresses all these short comings.
Sorry for the rambling; wanted to set the backstory. Has anyone ever found a flat free wheel/tire that will fit the 17P?
I have spent hours reading up on many options, but have still come up empty. I hate to buy another medium duty cart just to have to address all these shortcomings over again. Does no one make a great heavy duty garden cart!?!
 

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How badly is your wheel damaged? Can you post a photo? Since these carts travel at slow speeds you don't necessarily need a perfect wheel - especially with a tube.

I absolutely love my 17P cart. I've heard others complain about the dump latch on the 10P and 17P carts but I've not had any issues with mine in 7 years of usage. I carry a lot of tail heavy loads too. Maybe I just got lucky.

I've pondered replacement tires as well as I know one of these days my tires will start leaking.

Given the mods you have made it sounds like a replacement wheel is the most prudent approach - assuming of course that your wheel cannot be repaired/straightened. Have you considered one of the $47 min-tire changers from Harbor Freight? It makes changing small tires a breeze and would eliminate the need for a tire shop.
 
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Aren't the tires/wheels on the 17P cart 16.00x6.5x8 with 3/4-inch axle holes?

I see you can get a set of TWO tires on yellow wheels from Amazon for $120. Do you think these would fit?

 

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I've had the an Ohio steel dump cart for about 6 years now. Tractor supply sells the 15cubic foot version for $269. Solid 1" steel axle and rated for 1000lbs. Foot peddle dump release with swivel dump.

Ive loaded that cart up well beyond it's rated weight many times and it just keeps trucking.

It might not be green but they make a really great cart in my opinion.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Aren't the tires/wheels on the 17P cart 16.00x6.5x8 with 3/4-inch axle holes?

I see you can get a set of TWO tires on yellow wheels from Amazon for $120. Do you think these would fit?

I did see those, but was weary after I read some of the reviews that noted:
"I decided to purchase these after reading the reviews. I replaced "identical size" tires with these. However, these tires are definitely larger in height which I found to be advantageous for the mower deck on a Husqvarna. That being said, I was leery about the bearings being used to replace the bushings. Some earlier reviews took issue with the inner seal. Others discussed having to machine the hub because it was too long. I'll start with the bearings. These bearings are not designed for this application. Bearings that are being used need to be pressed on (both, the outer race and the inner race). This is not the case for the inner race. The zircon fittings will help prevent the inner race from cutting into the axle providing they're greased adequately and frequently. Removing the inner seal doesn't really accomplish anything. Bottom line is the manufacturer doesn't understand the difference between the different types of bearings (think of trailer axles), proper applications and bushings (but it looks cool). Additionally, they failed to consider and keep the tolerances tight. External snap ring and washers allowed side to side play which these bearings are NOT designed for. If you choose to purchase these tires, save the bushings from your old rims. You may need them in the future. Note: I did not check to see if the OD of the bushings were the same as the bearings. If they are different, saving the old rims might be advisable.
As far as having to reduce the size of the hub, turn the rim/tire around. Zircon fittings go to the inside. Valve stem to the outside.
To sum it up, the manufacturer would be better off installing bushings. Bushings will wear prior to the shaft/axle. Where as, a hardened inner race on a bearing, that is not meant to spin on a shaft, will cut into the shaft/axle. They tried to outdo their competitors, but didn't take the time to understand the differences between bearings that are designed for axles, bearings that are pressed in and their proper applications. Unfortunately, I didn't have many options at the time when I purchased these.
Update: purchase new e-clip external retaining rings. Wheel fell off while mowing. Originals are thin and can't handle the side to side motion of the wheel assembly on rough terrain. Replacements will be a bit of a challenge to install, but will compensate for the change of tolerance from bushings to bearings."
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How badly is your wheel damaged? Can you post a photo? Since these carts travel at slow speeds you don't necessarily need a perfect wheel - especially with a tube.

I absolutely love my 17P cart. I've heard others complain about the dump latch on the 10P and 17P carts but I've not had any issues with mine in 7 years of usage. I carry a lot of tail heavy loads too. Maybe I just got lucky.

I've pondered replacement tires as well as I know one of these days my tires will start leaking.

Given the mods you have made it sounds like a replacement wheel is the most prudent approach - assuming of course that your wheel cannot be repaired/straightened. Have you considered one of the $47 min-tire changers from Harbor Freight? It makes changing small tires a breeze and would eliminate the need for a tire shop.
See attached pics of the dinged up wheel. I could work it back with my channel locks and ball peen, I just know it will never be too smooth when I'm finished. Think it would work?
800311
 

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Can’t hurt to try. Won’t lose anything but time and temper. Do they make heavy duty tubes for those?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How badly is your wheel damaged? Can you post a photo? Since these carts travel at slow speeds you don't necessarily need a perfect wheel - especially with a tube.

I absolutely love my 17P cart. I've heard others complain about the dump latch on the 10P and 17P carts but I've not had any issues with mine in 7 years of usage. I carry a lot of tail heavy loads too. Maybe I just got lucky.

I've pondered replacement tires as well as I know one of these days my tires will start leaking.

Given the mods you have made it sounds like a replacement wheel is the most prudent approach - assuming of course that your wheel cannot be repaired/straightened. Have you considered one of the $47 min-tire changers from Harbor Freight? It makes changing small tires a breeze and would eliminate the need for a tire shop.
I haven't checked that out. But I've read plenty of horrow stories of guys fighting to get tubless tires back on. Ratchet straps, brake cleaner..... And I love my cart racks! I can get almost a 1/2 cord of split oak on my 17P with these racks!
800314
 

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I don’t know if I’d necessarily want to heat that up seeing how malleable it is already. Probably drug it over some rocks with a full load for quite a while before noticing it was flat.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yep, full load of split wood, trying with repeated attempts to get up an embankment and back to the road. Then up the driveway (1/4 mile), until I felt the oddest sensation..... (facepalm). So thankful for the 4 wheel drive. Hard to stop that baby.
 

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I don’t know if I’d necessarily want to heat that up seeing how malleable it is already. Probably drug it over some rocks with a full load for quite a while before noticing it was flat.
Heating allows the metal to relax allowing it to sometimes pop back to its original shape with a little persuasion.
 

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I've had the an Ohio steel dump cart for about 6 years now. Tractor supply sells the 15cubic foot version for $269. Solid 1" steel axle and rated for 1000lbs. Foot peddle dump release with swivel dump.

Ive loaded that cart up well beyond it's rated weight many times and it just keeps trucking.

It might not be green but they make a really great cart in my opinion.

careful with that. those one inch axles. they are soft steel. I was about to buy one of those carts last month but thumbed through all the reveiws on tractor supply. Several complaints with pics of bent axles with the 20 cu ft version and claimed payload of 1500 pounds.
 

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careful with that. those one inch axles. they are soft steel. I was about to buy one of those carts last month but thumbed through all the reveiws on tractor supply. Several complaints with pics of bent axles with the 20 cu ft version and claimed payload of 1500 pounds.
I have hauled soo much dirt, rock, and asphalt millings in that cart that if it was going to bend the axle it would have by now. It gets bounced up and down a steep rocky trail while loaded as well.

Even loaded it with a backhoe.

That cart stills rides smooth and straight. The dump latch has never opened up untill I told it to. Often times it takes a swift kick to let it dump on a steep incline because the weight in the cart is pulling on the latch.

Any cart can break if you abuse it hard enough.
 

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yep, full load of split wood, trying with repeated attempts to get up an embankment and back to the road. Then up the driveway (1/4 mile), until I felt the oddest sensation..... (facepalm). So thankful for the 4 wheel drive. Hard to stop that baby.
I have hauled soo much dirt, rock, and asphalt millings in that cart that if it was going to bend the axle it would have by now. It gets bounced up and down a steep rocky trail while loaded as well.

Even loaded it with a backhoe.

That cart stills rides smooth and straight. The dump latch has never opened up untill I told it to. Often times it takes a swift kick to let it dump on a steep incline because the weight in the cart is pulling on the latch.

Any cart can break if you abuse it hard enough.
Sounds like a great cart worth repairing.
 
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I went thru several carts, and stumbled across the Bosski 800 Atv wagon. There is no looking back. I pull it with a X700. It has real hubs, torsion suspension, I have loaded it to the gills, great wagon.
Looks like a stout little trailer but where is it made?
Went to their website and their website and no address or much of any info except to talk about how great they are.
 
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