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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just installed my double HH on my 1025R with 8 42-lb suitcase weights. I figure about 400 lbs total weight, give or take, adding in the HH and the Pat’s Easy Hitch. Driving on my unsealed asphalt driveway (without loader), the tractor pushes straight ahead if the wheels are at a 40-45 degree angle. Less than that, it steers, but not great. But at least it does. With the 40-45 degrees of steering angle it drives like the rear diff is locked. I guess I’m surprised by how 400 Ibs on the 3 point makes the tractor almost undrivable on asphalt w/o the loader.

Does this sound right to you guys? Or maybe there’s something amiss? And, yes, I was in 2WD!
 

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Just installed my double HH on my 1025R with 8 42-lb suitcase weights. I figure about 400 lbs total weight, give or take, adding in the HH and the Pat’s Easy Hitch. Driving on my unsealed asphalt driveway (without loader), the tractor pushes straight ahead if the wheels are at a 40-45 degree angle. Less than that, it steers, but not great. But at least it does. With the 40-45 degrees of steering angle it drives like the rear diff is locked. I guess I’m surprised by how 400 Ibs on the 3 point makes the tractor almost undrivable on asphalt w/o the loader.

Does this sound right to you guys? Or maybe there’s something amiss? And, yes, I was in 2WD!
Nope, it doesn't sound right to me. In 2wd without differential lock, it should steer normally. The one thing that would affect it slightly would be underinflated rear tires but that wouldn't affect it to the degree you are getting. I think your differential is locked, even if the lever isn't in the locked position.

Treefarmer
 
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I’ve always noticed that mine doesn’t make a perfect turn - but what youre saying sounds much more apparent than that.

You sure that your 2wd was actually engaged and that 4wd wasn’t stuck?


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Either 4WD or the Diff Lock are engaged. There was a thread in the past on one of the JD forums that was discussing the Diff Lock being engaged even when it was not suppose to be. I can't remember the resolution that solved the problem. I would jack up the tractor at the rear and with the wheels off the ground, see if they turn in opposite directions when you try and manually turn one wheel. If they try and turn in the same direction, the Diff Lock is engaged. If they turn in the opposite direction from each other, then I would suspect the front axle is engaged even if you don't have it commanded.
 

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Without the loader?

I've experienced this with my 1025 as well with ballast or a heavy implement and no loader. There's no weight up front and weight out back. I have assumed this hifts that tractor's balance far rearward, essentially lightening the front wheels, and that's why steering was less than responsive.

Bet if you drop the weight off the back when you don't have the loader on, you'll be fine.
 

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I would check the brake adjustment. The diff lock and brake work on the same linkage on the 1 series and the 2025R, quite common for them to be adjusted just a little too tight.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No problem plowing this past winter using the JD54 blade on a QH, with no weight on the 3pt. And I was able to tell the difference between 2WD and 4WD. It’s the 400 lbs on the 3pt and no front blade (or loader) that has made a world of difference. Anybody ever try their tractor with weight on the 3pt and nothing on the front for comparison purposes?
 

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Sure have. See my post above.

I had ballast on, took off the loader, and I have about the same weight in my ballast box as you are using.

Driving in my grass, I had the same issue. Steering the front wheels wouldn't reliably affect the tractor's actual direction of travel. Dropped the ballast off the hitch, no more problem.

It responded in a way that seemed to me much like when I'm using the FEL and it juuuuuuust barely lifts the front end enough that the front wheels no longer have enough pressure on them to steer the tractor.

It's not that it's responding like an engaged diff lock or 4wd in place...everything moves and spins fine, but the front wheels just glide along straight forward regardless of which way you turn the wheel.

When I was on my grass, it wasn't tearing out grass/sod, either. That told me it was real light on the front end. Drop off the ballast or reattach the loader and it works fine again.
 
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2021 JD3046R w/deluxe cab, FEL 73" HD bucket, 60D MMM, SB1164,iMatch, RB2184H, SS2067B, pallet fork
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Spray some WD40 or similar to your brake linkage. The brake linkage is connected to the differential lock and will cause problems. I had the same issue with the 1025R I previously owned.
 

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No problem plowing this past winter using the JD54 blade on a QH, with no weight on the 3pt. And I was able to tell the difference between 2WD and 4WD. It’s the 400 lbs on the 3pt and no front blade (or loader) that has made a world of difference. Anybody ever try their tractor with weight on the 3pt and nothing on the front for comparison purposes?
Recently I was going up a hill with my MCS (~400lbs empty) after just removing my loader and driving to get the front HH and 224lbs of suitcase weights. The front end was VERY light and steering inputs were basically ineffective, but this was on grass, going up a slope. On pavement it was better, but definitely had a very slight understeer. After installing the front HH bracket and weights, problem resolved.
 
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I’m going to say it’s normal. I had a cone fertilizer spreader on mine with nothing on the front and it did the same thing on my asphalt drive. It’s just too light in front.
 

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I say normal. You have a completely unbalanced machine without the loader on the front. If you have the loader on with no ballast, you’re going to have rear traction issues.
This happens to me if I have the backhoe (601 lbs) on and no loader, in fact, if I hit the forward pedal too hard, I can easily wheelie myself around.
The point of ballast is to creat balance, too much either side and you either can’t steer, can’t traction, or tip. I’d recommend ballasting when appropriate vs leaving the HH on the 3 pt all the time.
 

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I’m going to say it’s normal. I had a cone fertilizer spreader on mine with nothing on the front and it did the same thing on my asphalt drive. It’s just too light in front.
Correct in all cases. Too much weight on the rear. Take 1/2 of it off.
 

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You sure your not "riding" the 1 and only brake pedal...???

If so..You are EnGageing the Diff lock on your Tractor.

This may be part of the problem as could be the ballast ?
 

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My 2025R will do the same thing if the backhoe is on and the loader bucket is off (not the loader arms off - just the bucket when changing them). With the rorotiller on the back instead of the heavier BH it doesn't happen. If the suggested checks don't make any difference then there is probably no need for concern.
 

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Driving on my unsealed asphalt driveway (without loader), the tractor pushes straight ahead if the wheels are at a 40-45 degree angle.
To add to the "me toos" I have the same experience with steering when using my 3-point fertilizer spreader filled with 600 or so pounds and no loader. So in that case I put on my HH front weight bracket and 8 42-lb suitcase weights. Before learning the need for front weights lesson, I could feel the steering go from almost none back to decent as the fertilizer was being spread and the back weight decreased.

When I put only 6 bags in the speader, or 300 pounds, the steering without front weights is good, so somewhere above 300 pounds plus the spreader weight is where I notice my steering begin to suffer.
 

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For your machine and the weight involved, it is normal. I have done the same thing a number of times.

I always have a "transition" between when I remove the FEL out at my storage barn and put the Quik Tach and 87" front plow on my tractor in the garage attached to the house. This involves me having to drive the tractor up a slight grade and then onto a cement pad and then turn into the garage stall to install the front QA hitch and plow assembly.

The front end is VERY light with 550 pounds of rear ballast and nothing on the front. In fact, I have to very slowly engage the forward directional pedal or the front wheels will come right off the ground and the rear carry all platform acts like a wheelie bar. .

I make the turn into the garage after climbing a small grade by letting off the forward pedal while turning the steering wheel or the tractor will plow forward with the wheels turned and even bounce the tires on the pavement.

Personally, if I were you, I would put the FEL back on the machine and try it again before diving into any search for a mechanical issue. . Chances are nothing is wrong and what you are experiencing is the full impact of leveraged ballast on the rear of the tractor without any extra weight on the front end. The rear ballast REALLY changes the characteristics of the tractors operation.

The higher you have the 3ph lifted with the HH assembly when the front end of the tractor is naked, the more extreme the lack of steering will be. I carry my 3ph ballast weight on the rear carry all platform, strapped up against the front wall of the rear carry all. This means the weight is as forward as can be on the 3ph carry all and as low as can be, I still experience what you are describing and my tractor has the Mauser cab on it, which adds about 400 pounds over the operator platform area.
 
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