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Axle is splashed lubricated, no pump involved, but if the snap ring broke, the pieces could cause problems.
Agreed but if the wheels are up and it is two wheel drive nothing will rotate.
 

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Agreed if both front wheels are off the ground, but there was talk of re-installing the left front wheel assembly on to the tractor, this leads me to believe they are thinking of rolling on its own wheels. If you could support the tractor on something under the front bucket and get it into the garage, there would be no need to install the left front wheel assembly.
 

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Maybe He has a neighbor with a FEL.

Bucket lifting bucket......back it into the garage...lots of options.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hard to keep up with all the instant responses and questions and many thanks for the how to video. 50-75 ft from present location into garage with one turn required. Driveway is asphalt as pictured in first post. Heeding all the shared concerns of potential damage, the tractor stays where it is unless a monsoon or blizzard are imminent. Should that happen, I'll try blocking up the good wheel and removing the bad one to run on three wheels. With the bad wheel removed, no added damage can be done on that wheel/spindle assy. Also, I can raise the ballast box to reduce front axle weight. My priority will be to pull the bad wheel, watch the video and do the repairs. I've put together a list with part numbers of items that may need replacement. The snap ring and seals are a given. Updates on progress will follow.
 

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Even on 3 wheels the front differential will still turn. If that were my tractor I'd find a way to roll it on just the rear axle. You bust up the internals of that axle you're probably looking at 5 years of lead time to get replacement parts ("due to covid 19" of course) so moving it on a suspect axle would be out of the question for me. I'd have a neighbor lift the front end with their tractor, or get a couple beefy casters and temporarily weld them to the bucket, or put a dolly under it, or... anything that doesn't involve the front axle rotating!
 

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^That^ sounds like a plan.
Strap the bad side of the axle up and then grab a harbor freight dolly and put it under the bucket and strap it down on the dolly.
Push down with bucket until front tires are off the ground (in 2WD)
drive backwards until you get to where you need to turn then push the front end around to line up for the next straight away into the shop.

Or I might be all wet.
 

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call a flatbed tow truck, get it on the truck using the trucks dollies, then get it to a dealer.
 

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2015 2025r 62mmm h130 af10f plow forks 62 disc ripper and a woods m5 Dixie mower
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It appears the snap ring (22) that secures the spindle shaft let go. It may have been installed backwards upon assembly. The square cut side should face down.

It's likely the snap ring is still inside the housing although the seal (25) may have been damaged when it came apart.

View attachment 813899
yep snap ring take your hub apart 6 bolts then take your gears apart inspect your hub put together and add oil to it Iwhould Do the seal as well
 

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Fuzzy, how many hours are on your tractor?

Sorry to see you are having this issue, but if it had to happen, on pavement and 75 feet (approx) and one turn from being inside the garage are about as good a "breaking place" one could ask for. Normally, it happens when the front end is in a swamp, nose down at 15 degrees with alligators in the pond and a rattle snakes nest under the tractor.......or at least it seems to go that way often...................

If you go the Harbor Freight dolly method to get the machine in the garage, don't waste time or money on the "composite / fiberglass" dolly they sell as it is junk. I bought two of these to set the FEL on during winter storage and they both broke the first time the FEL was pushed by hand to move it. I would go with the heavy duty wood version as those have held up well............

Good news is the wooden dolly's are on sale at HF......through Wednesday.

Trigger Aviation Font Aircraft Bumper
 

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Repair it where it sits. It's no big deal.

The front-end-loader can be used to lift the front axle off the ground, high enough to remove the tire and wheel. This will give you access to the hub and bolts that retain it all.
The parts you'll be removing are light.

I recommend a new "Snap Ring"(#22) and seals prior to assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Pulled wheel assy in driveway and split the hub. Snap ring #14, not #22 (22 holds the bearing group in place, 14 holds the vertical spindle) was lying in the bottom of the knuckle along with a spacer ring #23. Snap ring was bent with a slight crease in it. Got snap ring pliers and required parts from dealer and will clean up other parts and reassemble tomorrow.
 

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A couple pictures of reassembly for us to see what's involved in the repair?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Pigpen,

Looked at your seal replacement post. Good stuff. I didn't buy a new upper seal, but plan to after seeing your post. Where I left off today was during reassembly. The hub assy is not easily mating with the upper spindle knuckle. The spindle and bottom bevel gear turned freely before putting them together and now they won't move. Got to be an alignment snafu. Tomorrow, after replacing the upper seal, I'll try again. The tie rod ball joint and steering arm joint are still attached to the hub, which I think is making perfect assembly alignment difficult, if not impossible. So, I'll also break those joints to give the hub more freedom. Warmer tomorrow. Yippee! I'll also take pictures before I button it up.

Two things responding to other comments and questions. First, the tractor is a 2012 1026R with 800 hours on it. Second, the JD dealer did not carry split ring pliers. My sentence was misleading. I bought the pliers at the local Napa dealer and the tractor parts at the JD dealership.

The repair is another one of those valuable experiences. This summer I look forward to rebuilding the other side now that I know what it entails.
 

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Is your tie rod supposed to have that wonky bend in it?

I don't have your tractor but thats something that caught my eye early on.

Glad its going back together...I assume you checked the lower gears and the one in the Hub as you had that all apart.

Some differentials ... would have what looks like shims ( thin washers behind those Beveled gears).... I wonder how the backlash is set on those or is it a Joe Dirt Thing....It just does?

Didn't see options in the manual pages the one guy posted....
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Dan,

No tie rod damage. Picture angles can be misleading. The gears look like new. The manual does not show every detail of the assembly. You kinda learn things as you go. Getting the hub attached to the upper knuckle really seems to require perfect alignment, which hasn't happened yet. Things look good, but the bevel gear won't rotate, so it's binding at the moment. Once I get the aligment spot on, everything should turn freely.
 

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2015 2025r 62mmm h130 af10f plow forks 62 disc ripper and a woods m5 Dixie mower
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Dan,

No tie rod damage. Picture angles can be misleading. The gears look like new. The manual does not show every detail of the assembly. You kinda learn things as you go. Getting the hub attached to the upper knuckle really seems to require perfect alignment, which hasn't happened yet. Things look good, but the bevel gear won't rotate, so it's binding at the moment. Once I get the aligment spot on, everything should turn freely.
Perfect placement and I had to sand the paint off mine
 
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