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The spindle and bottom bevel gear turned freely before putting them together and now they won't move. Got to be an alignment snafu. Tomorrow, after replacing the upper seal, I'll try again.
My first thought was you have both front tires off the ground, yes?

I say this without research or knowing what the hell I'm talking abouto_O

Sreve
 

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Don't forget to make sure the vent is functioning while you are working on this, as it makes filling the assembly much easier. I wondered how number 14 could be the part you were referencing until I saw there are 4 number 14 used on the machine......Now it makes perfect sense.

Fuzzy, what would you estimate is a reasonable time frame to rebuild the spindle like you mentioned you are "looking forward to doing next summer", which was nice to hear, instead of dreading it?............Thanks for sharing this thread and your steps along the way. Also good to hear the parts were readily available as sometimes you have to wonder...............especially with all the supply chain challenges these days......


Font Slope Rectangle Parallel Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Tire Automotive tire Light Tread Bicycle tire

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Full reassembly completed. For anyone who experiences this, expect to replace the upper seal #25. Mine was totally mutilated. Expensive part too. Total damage was $73 for seal, $25 for snap ring #14 and hub gasket #12 plus $35 for a set of snap ring pliers. I bought the pliers yesterday. Today, when I tried to use them, they were too small requiring another run into town to exchange them for a bigger pair. Removing the two ball joints from the spindle hub using a couple of sharp hammer blows to loosen them (thanks for that procedure) allowed the spindle knuckle to slide up into place with minimal force. Got to remove and do it over once after forgetting to loosely install the steel sleeve #23 and snap ring #14 around the spindle end before sliding lower bevel gear into place on the spindle. Once the hub was all the way up in place, the sleeve gets inserted up into the groove above the snap ring and the ring gets snapped into place. To insure that everything is properly aligned makes it go together with relative ease. It's especially important to rotate the lower bevel gear frequently to make sure it isn't binding. This helps to verify perfect alignment. I also used a floor jack to provide that tiny bit of force needed to seat the upper and lower knuckles tightly together.

Time? If you have the desired parts and a good snap ring pliers and you are familiar with the procedure, 4-8 hours total. The biggest unknown is the condition of the upper seal and what's required to pull out the bad one. I did lots of hammering, bending and prying, which has a lot to do with its final mutilated condition. The seal was splint in an upper half and lower half when the failure separated the upper knuckle from the hub. If that hadn't happened, you would only have to extract the seal from the lower spindle knuckle as seen at the top of the stack in the exploded parts diagram. I guess it all depends on old part condition and what you decide to replace.

I still have to do the oil fill and will dig up the procedure and specs. Any help there could save me from researching.

Pictures: Just some highlights, not every step of the way.

Seals - old one is in three pieces. Loose ones had to be pried off the upper end of the spindle with the lower half still pressed inside the housing. The new seal is resting below the old pieces.

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Automotive tire Rim Camera lens Bicycle part Automotive wheel system


Spindle showing upper pieces of old seal below black paint.
Tire Automotive tire Light Tread Bicycle tire


Spindle binding and not fully inserted due to tie rod end and steering arm ball joint still attached. Until these were disconnected from hub, alignment was impossible.
Wheel Tire Blue Automotive tire Motor vehicle


Lower half of old seal is visible in housing.
Bicycle part Tap Gas Plumbing Nut


Bottom half of old seal cleaned up, but still in housing.
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Hub housing in vise for cleanup. Because of initial attempt to install on tractor with misalignment binding, uninstalling pulled out bevel gear and bearing connected the the bottom of the gear. I tapped it back down into place with a large socket and extension from the top of the housing.
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View showing bottom side of new seal on left.
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Mutilated old seal after total removal. Good thing I bought a new one.
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Was there any kind of shim/washer Under that lower gear in the Housing..??

What does it ride on if nothing?
Is the housing machined to fit lower side of gear?
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Thanks Pigpen.

Dan,
The bevel gear actually is suspended in a large ball ring bearing, item #7. That bearing fits snuggly into a machined cavity at the bottom of the housing. The bevel gear is resting in that bearing in my picture of the bevel gear at the bottom of the hub housing. Sorry for not taking a picture of them separated.
 

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Glad it is back in one piece. I am sure it was not a great day with the cold and wind to be working outside. You did a very nice job on the procedure.(y)
 

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Sorry about your tractor troubles but I guess the bright side is you know your machine better now. 🙄👍🏻🙂
 

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Thanks for showing us all that's involved in doing this type of job👍
 

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Nice job of rebuilding. Was this under warranty??
 

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Glad you got it back together. It's amazing what the seals cost!!
 

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Glad you got it back together. It's amazing what the seals cost!!
JD makes everything out of green gold and platinum these days....

john Deere 1025R
loader
backhoe
47 in tiller
47 blower
5ft landscape rake
10 KW pto generator
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Thanks everyone for all the positive comments.

2012 model, so not under warranty.

I finished moving my topsoil today with no issues from front end. However, when I went to start it, the battery died on me. 12.5 volts, wouldn't take any additional charge, but crapped under load, including glow plug. I jump started it with my truck, finished the dirt at max rpm and it did the same thing on a restart attempt. New battery time on Friday.

Any suggestions for best replacement battery?
 

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Thanks everyone for all the positive comments.

2012 model, so not under warranty.

I finished moving my topsoil today with no issues from front end. However, when I went to start it, the battery died on me. 12.5 volts, wouldn't take any additional charge, but crapped under load, including glow plug. I jump started it with my truck, finished the dirt at max rpm and it did the same thing on a restart attempt. New battery time on Friday.

Any suggestions for best replacement battery?
Nice job on the spindle / front axle repair.....

As far as battery, it's hard to find a battery which will fit that has the same CCA as the Deere battery. Personally, I didn't want to assume that 100 less CCA wasn't a big deal. Many have said "Probably won't notice it", well, the glow plugs are being powered, the fuel pump running and you need to turn the engine over at proper RPM to cause fuel burn. Factor in cold temps and a battery compromised due to cold and I think every CCA is necessary and a good idea.

I stayed with the Deere "Strongbox" battery and likely would again. I looked all over and I did find a battery which was "close" at the "batteries plus" but it was more than 50% higher than the Deere battery. Didn't see the point in paying 50% more to get less CCA.......

The Interstate battery is a good battery, but you would need to go with either the Red or Yellow top. Light gray case is starting batteries, dark gray case is deep cycle. Make sure the posts are oriented correctly as there is no room for any different cable positions. Also, clean the vent hose on your old,battery and KEEP IT to reuse it, as the new batteries don't come with the vent hose. Its actually a separate part you have to buy from Deere.....

The battery is a real treat to put into the front lower well. Make sure to hang onto it tight as once you start to bring the battery up, you don't want to damage the radiator, grill, headlights, etc. Proceed carefully.......I did a thread on replacing the battery in a cab tractor, which is 95% the same process.

 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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@Fuzzy - when it comes to replacing my battery, I'm going with the JD batt. A bit (double) more than other similar sized batteries but I'll echo SB - I'd rather the piece of mind for cold starts than saving the $50 and optima options are double the JD prices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Great responses as usual. John Deere battery it is and will also purchase lifting strap to make physical replacement as safe and easy as possible. That location is a very tight space for manhandling that much weight. Lithium would be much lighter and easier.
 

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Sulley,

Lifting the battery out is a non issue if you use a lift strap. Most auto stores have them, or you can get them on the web cheaply.

battery lift strap | eBay
 
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@Fuzzy Absolutely great job documenting your experience through this. Thank you for doing so. I'm sure it will help others who may unfortunately run into a similar situation.

On the battery, I too went with the JD battery. The cost was fair for the CCA. @MattL and @SulleyBear posts really sum it up well.
 
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