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"Tractor Buying Regret" Inspired Questions

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19K views 139 replies 40 participants last post by  Mikauai  
#1 ·
So yesterday I committed to buying a new 1025r with a front loader & 54" belly mower, my 1st tractor. I'm going in tomorrow to pay for it.

I'm pretty naïve when it comes to tractors. I watched a "Biggest Tractor Buying Regrets" video and it inspired some new questions i should have been asking.

1. Are all 2022 Front Loaders "Quick Attach" ? Or is that an option i need to specify?
2. Should i get my ballast weight from JD dealer or is it better to get somewhere else?
3. If i eventually want to get a snow plow for my tractor, do additional hydraulics need to be installed at purchase?
4. Is a brush guard just an added option that can be quickly added to any new 1025r? (I'd like one 😃)
5. How important are the tires that I pick? the tires weren't even brought up to me, but in reading they seem to be a big deal (I'm not sure how much it matters because they only have 1 tractor left anyway)

Sorry if this is too much, appreciate the help
 
#4 ·
All the JD Loaders are Quick Attach, the big difference is are conventional and the Mechanical Self Leveling. Pros and cons for both. I have the conventional and have no regrets. Getting the Ballast from JD allows you to roll it into the loan and zero percent if JD is offering that. Will you be attaching the plow to the Front End Loader (FEL) or going with the JD Quick Attach Hitch? With the Quick Attach, nothing else is needed. On the FEL, maybe if you want to power angle the blade, you will need some additional hydraulics, not familiar enough with that setup to recommend. Brush Grill Guard use to come standard with the FEL. I have the Turf Tires and wish I had the HDLP or Versa Turfs, weren't an option in 2013. I leave my chains on year around.
 
#5 ·
I'm not sure about your loader question. The ballast weight depends on what type of weight you are using. If you are using iron suitcase weights yes, I'd get them from the dealer. If your using a ballast box then no, I'm sure you can figure out what to put in it for allot less money than suitcase weights. If you plan on putting a plow on the loader arms or ever might want a grapple then yes! have them put 3rd function on right away at the dealer. The install will be cleaner, cheaper and easier now then later! I would definitely not have a tractor without a brush guard, definitely get one. And the tires depends on what you are doing with it. Our tractor came with the turf tires but we quickly found out that other than mowing they are pretty useless. We bought a set of R4's and are very happy with them. I have never seen or used the new versa tires so I have no opinion on them.
 
#6 ·
1. Are all 2022 Front Loaders "Quick Attach" ? Or is that an option i need to specify?
This is one of those questions where the answer is all in exactly how the question is worded. The direct answer to your question is "No!". Deere sells the D120 loader that is not JDQA. HOWEVER, the D120 isn't sold for the 1025R. Deere only sells the 120R loader for the 1025R. That loader IS JDQA.

2. Should i get my ballast weight from JD dealer or is it better to get somewhere else?
Should you? Maybe. You can find ballast boxes and ballast weights sold elsewhere for less $$. Is that your concern? The big advantage of buying through Deere is you can buy them with the new tractor and roll the cost into the 0% financing.

3. If i eventually want to get a snow plow for my tractor, do additional hydraulics need to be installed at purchase?
If you go with the standard 54" or 60" plow on the QuikTach hitch that Deere sells with the 1025R then nom you will already have all the hydraulics you'll need. If you want to get a loader-mounted plow then you'll almost certainly need one additional set of hydraulic ports. But you can get those with the machine new or you can add them later.

4. Is a brush guard just an added option that can be quickly added to any new 1025r? (I'd like one 😃)
Yes. You also automatically get one with any Deere installed loader.

5. How important are the tires that I pick? the tires weren't even brought up to me, but in reading they seem to be a big deal (I'm not sure how much it matters because they only have 1 tractor left anyway)
How important is air? For some people tires are everything. For other people they are a non-issue. By default the 1025Rs will have R4s on them. Those work for most tasks. Many people have found that they suck in snow. Some people prefer a R3 turf tire for driving around on lawns. Tire type is largely driven by what you need your tractor to do.
 
#7 ·
I agree with everything above.

1. Are all 2022 Front Loaders "Quick Attach" ? Or is that an option i need to specify? a 1R tractor has the JDQA standard and you can remove/install the loader from the tractor easily too.
2. Should i get my ballast weight from JD dealer or is it better to get somewhere else? whatever you want to do, if making it easy is what you like, then get a ballast box from the dealer, some people use an implement as ballast, like a box blade. You can add hang weights on a box blade if you want to add more weight.
3. If i eventually want to get a snow plow for my tractor, do additional hydraulics need to be installed at purchase? I know nothing about pushing snow, but it is best to get additional hydraulics at time of purchase, it makes it easy and you hit the ground running with what you want/need. Since you are paying cash, the 0% financing issue is a moot point. As mentioned above, this will depend on the plow you choose, some require a hydraulic circuit, some don't.
4. Is a brush guard just an added option that can be quickly added to any new 1025r? (I'd like one 😃) included with loader, there may be an add on deluxe option, some of the larger series have this as a option, not sure about the 1 series.
5. How important are the tires that I pick? the tires weren't even brought up to me, but in reading they seem to be a big deal (I'm not sure how much it matters because they only have 1 tractor left anyway) Again, I have no snow experience, but I think you may be splitting hairs here. If what they have in stock has R4 tires get them, if they have one with R3 see if you like them better. I think you will be happy either way. And if snow traction becomes an issue, tire chains are available.


now all we need is pictures of the new tractor!
 
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#8 ·
Buy it as it sits on the lot. Add things later as you need them. Ballast boxes and suitcase weights and brackets are less expensive elsewhere than from the dealer. Installation of more hydraulics is easy but takes time and some mechanical ability. Maybe the only thing to get from dealer is an added iMatch hitch to get you started.
 
#9 ·
My biggest regret was not getting more stuff in the 0% financing.

A tractor by itself isn't very useful and after you get a lot of attachments, the tractor becomes the cheapest part of your investment. It's just the power supply for all the other things.
 
#14 ·
My biggest regret was not getting more stuff in the 0% financing.

A tractor by itself isn't very useful and after you get a lot of attachments, the tractor becomes the cheapest part of your investment. It's just the power supply for all the other things.
I completely agree with Jimmy. Throw everything you want into the 0% interest basket before you check out. Especially hydraulics and weights - let them do all the heavy lifting and getting all oily and stuff. The I-match quick hitch is a must as well, and seriously consider throwing in some pallet forks - I guarantee you will use them more than any other attachment or implement you can think of.
 
#11 ·
Good answers to all your questions, I’ll just add my option on ballast.

I got my tires filled with rimguard. I also went the ballast box route. I’d say a heavy hitch with weights is the best, it sits a little closer to the tractor. It costs more also. I filled my ballast box with weight lifting weights, brake rotors etc.

I have turf tires on mine but the new radials look the best to me.
 
#12 ·
I knew nothing about tractors when I bought my 1025r in 2016 and really didn't do much research. However, I bought the backhoe so I used it for ballast from day one. Now I have a box blade and a tiller also.

As far as adding hydraulics. If you do it later will you do it yourself? Or will you send your tractor back to the dealer to get it done. If you're not doing it yourself you might as well do it now while its convenient and you're not used to having your tractor.

Lastly, I'll add that there's another advantage to financing...insurance. The Deere insurance that covers your tractor while it's financed is really cheap. Finding insurance after the loan is paid is harder depending on where you live and will be more expensive. Usually you're covered by your homeowner's insurance on your property, but you might want to check on that.
 
#13 ·
I knew nothing about tractors when I bought my 1025r in 2016 and really didn't do much research. However, I bought the backhoe so I used it for ballast from day one. Now I have a box blade and a tiller also.

As far as adding hydraulics. If you do it later will you do it yourself? Or will you send your tractor back to the dealer to get it done. If you're not doing it yourself you might as well do it now while its convenient and you're not used to having your tractor.

Lastly, I'll add that there's another advantage to financing...insurance. The Deere insurance that covers your tractor while it's financed is really cheap. Finding insurance after the loan is paid is harder depending on where you live and will be more expensive. Usually you're covered by your homeowner's insurance on your property, but you might want to check on that.
Yea the insurance thing is on my radar. My insurance agent is our next door neighbor so shouldnt be hard to figure it out.

I'll likely do it myself. I'm very much into understanding & maintaining all of my purchases and I'm an enthusiastic DIY'er.
 
#16 ·
One thing to ask for just before signing on the bottom line is the service manual and maybe a copy of the parts manual. My dealer gave me both at no charge on both my 445 in 1994 and my 1026R in 2013. I know the parts manual is available on line, but the current one will be superseded over time and it is handy for finding the ORIGINAL part number in the future. In 94, they didn't have electronic versions of the service manual so my paper one has seen a lot of use. My 1026R manual, I got in PDF format and print out what I want and don't worry about damaging it as I can just print out a new page or two when I want to. On my 445, in 94 they came with a two pinion differential and when that broke, the replacement was a four pinion unit, it was handy to have the original parts breakdown in the parts manual when I was disassembling the unit for repair.
 
#18 ·
I found the pallet forks great in moving trees that I cut down or were felled by the weather. Before I had to cut the trunks and branches to about 48" to manually load into my bucket. With the forks, I cut it what ever length is convenient and then use the tractor to load the waste wood without having to leave my seat. I can then haul the wood off to the swamp and dump with no problems.
 
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#20 ·
Pallet forks, they are handy, I use mine fairly often.

A grapple has been more handy for me. If you are clearing and moving brush, a grapple is your best friend!
 
#25 ·
THat's the exact job i need to do...damnit all this is adding up fast 😅

I have to move probably 50 piles like this one (photo'd) and remove approx 100 fallen trees. The old owner when a branch fell or when he blew his leaves....he just brought them to the edge of grass and threw it into the edge of the woods...but over 30 years it essentially created a wall if you want to walk into the woods (and this spans acres and acres)

Image
 
#22 ·
One thing about the forks, you can damage them doing what you should not try. I bent my fork frame trying to dig out some boulders in my yard. I had the forks towards the center of the frame and caused some damage to the loader and fork frame. I used the weight of my motor home and a bottle jack to straighten out the frame and $400 later the loader was back in shape.
 
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#23 ·
Pallet forks are great for all kinds of things. As said if you do woods work moving trees is much better with forks then a bucket or even using them to lift the log while you buck it.

But also use pallets cause well i can fit more bags of XYZ on a pallet and move then i can in a bucket. Also put implements on pallets so you can easily move them around. Every implement should have a pallet with it.
 
#24 ·
36", 42" or 48" Tractor Time with Tim has a good explanation on YouTube why he likes the 36" best and that is what I went with, no regrets. Used them the 18th of April to unload a Cricket SX3 Mini Golf Cart from the delivery semi and take the containers to the barn where I could unpack the cart.
 
#31 · (Edited)
HOLY SMOKES, is that the wall of trees in the background?

Wowzer, that is a job! Judging from the picture, and in my opinion, you can do it just fine with a 1 Series tractor, just take your time.

there are 100 ways to skin a cat, but here is mine;
Yes, this is exactly what a grapple is for. Ask to get a 3rd SCV (service control valve) on your loader for a grapple, and price a grapple. There are 100 different kinds of grapples, the best one is one you HAVE, so dont get caught up in a debate about what style is best - just get one. Frontier makes an excellent unit for the 1 Series tractors, I think it is a AV-20 or some number close to that. others have posted so the info my be there for you.

Thats a lot of work you have, be patient and work it small sections at a time. The small brush pile close to the camera... you can make short work of that with a grapple
 
#34 ·
HOLY SMOKES, is that the wall of trees in the background?

Wowzer, that is a job! Judging from the picture, and in my opinion, you can do it just fine with a 1 Series tractor, just take your time.

there are 100 ways to skin a cat, but here is mine;
Yes, this is exactly what a grapple is for. Ask to get a 3rd SCV (service control valve) on your loader for a grapple, and price a grapple. There are 100 different kinds of grapples, the best one is one you HAVE, so dont get caught up in a debate about what style is best - just get one. Frontier makes an excellent unit for the 1 Series tractors, I think it is a AV-20 or some number close to that. others have posted so the info my be there for you.

Thats a lot of work you have, be patient and work it small sections at a time.
Oh no that wall in the background is a rock wall, it was actually built by the union army during the civil war and it spans all 17 acres of my property.

I was referring to the pile that is in the foreground...I've been removing it by hand & creating burn piles with it (only 2 or 3 ft high in most places) but the work i slow going. Hoping the tractor will speed things up, it sounds like forks will do the job but a grapple would do it better
 
#32 · (Edited)
Hey, another note about the financing... it is a good deal, when the tractor is on credit you can get insurance for your tractor through John Deere, it is very good insurance and in my state the price was very good. Once it is paid off the insurance deal will need to be sourced elsewhere... like if you "crash" your tractor the JD insurance will cover the repairs.

I paid mine off quick, but then thought about the insurance and thought... that was stupid. 0% has other advantages than just using their money.
 
#33 ·
What do you plan to do with that brush? Burn it or chip it, or make a ton of twig wreaths ;).

If burning, grapple all the way. If chipping probably not as useful to have a grapple. I chip cause no good places to burn and burn permits are very limited around here. Also chips are useful for walking trails.
 
#35 ·
FYI - Looks like your previous owner was a lot like mine. Except mine threw in a lot more "trash" as well. I was cleaning out one particularly large pile that had mostly painted old wood furniture stuff and "artwork", had to take that all to the dump and pay by the pound cause not chipping furniture (could have metal) and don't like burning paint. But I found in the bottom of the pile a freakin bathtub!
 
#39 ·
If a snow plow is like any other blade (2 axis hydraulic motion) then you should be able to plug it right into your mid SCV ports.

Tires, that depends on what you care most about. If you want the best grip get R1 ("ag") tires, the downside being they might leave marks in your yard. If you don't want to leave marks get R3 ("turf") tires, the downside being they don't grip anything for crap. A fair middle balance is the R4 ("industrial") tires that come with the tractor standard, these are hard rubber, wear nicely on hard surfaces, do okay in sand and dirt and won't track up your yard as much as R1's. Downside is they suck in mud but not quite as bad as R3's. On these forums a lot of people also seem happy with VersaTurf tires, I'm not sure what classification those fall under.
 
#41 ·
If a snow plow is like any other blade (2 axis hydraulic motion) then you should be able to plug it right into your mid SCV ports.

Tires, that depends on what you care most about. If you want the best grip get R1 ("ag") tires, the downside being they might leave marks in your yard. If you don't want to leave marks get R3 ("turf") tires, the downside being they don't grip anything for crap. A fair middle balance is the R4 ("industrial") tires that come with the tractor standard, these are hard rubber, wear nicely on hard surfaces, do okay in sand and dirt and won't track up your yard as much as R1's. Downside is they suck in mud but not quite as bad as R3's. On these forums a lot of people also seem happy with VersaTurf tires, I'm not sure what classification those fall under.
Loader mounted snowplows need a 3rd SCV for angle since the loader uses the other 2 builtin. Now if you get the quick hitch (whatever JD calls it) snowplow then you do not need the hydraulics. However the quick hitch style requires removing the loader and installing the quick hitch, not a huge deal but is enough work that when I do it in the winter for my snow blower I leave it on for the winter. Mostly because I can not mount/unmount the quick hitch with gloves on and we dont have days where i want to handle metal bare handed.

Note I use a blower over a plow cause better choices in placing the snow. Plow is good if you have places to put the snow.
 
#40 ·
" Swirth 123 says;
So yesterday I committed to buying a new 1025r with a front loader & 54" belly mower, my 1st tractor. I'm going in tomorrow to pay for it.

I'm pretty naïve when it comes to tractors. I watched a "Biggest Tractor Buying Regrets" video and it inspired some new questions i should have been asking.

1. Are all 2022 Front Loaders "Quick Attach" ? Or is that an option i need to specify?
A: Make sure your loader is a 120R, for more reason than quick attach.

2. Should i get my ballast weight from JD dealer or is it better to get somewhere else?
A: Buy a ballast box and fill it with 34 pound cement blocks for Home depot. They're less than $2 ea. and HD will deliver them to your house. 18ea. is a good start.

3. If i eventually want to get a snow plow for my tractor, do additional hydraulics need to be installed at purchase?
A: Be smart and have the dealer install the JD 3rd SCV prior to delivery. It's JD, part of the tractor, covered by warranty and can be used for deck, plow, grapple, 4 way bucket, etc..

4. Is a brush guard just an added option that can be quickly added to any new 1025r? (I'd like one 😃)
A: Comes with one.

5. How important are the tires that I pick? the tires weren't even brought up to me, but in reading they seem to be a big deal (I'm not sure how much it matters because they only have 1 tractor left anyway)
A: Tell the dealer you want Versaturf tires, period, end of subject.

Finally, open a 0% account and buy your attachments and a tiny bit of the tractor with it. You'll save cash by doing this. Have fun and good luck!!!


Sorry if this is too much, appreciate the help
"
 
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#45 ·
So yesterday I committed to buying a new 1025r with a front loader & 54" belly mower, my 1st tractor. I'm going in tomorrow to pay for it.

I'm pretty naïve when it comes to tractors. I watched a "Biggest Tractor Buying Regrets" video and it inspired some new questions i should have been asking.

1. Are all 2022 Front Loaders "Quick Attach" ? Or is that an option i need to specify?
2. Should i get my ballast weight from JD dealer or is it better to get somewhere else?
3. If i eventually want to get a snow plow for my tractor, do additional hydraulics need to be installed at purchase?
4. Is a brush guard just an added option that can be quickly added to any new 1025r? (I'd like one 😃)
5. How important are the tires that I pick? the tires weren't even brought up to me, but in reading they seem to be a big deal (I'm not sure how much it matters because they only have 1 tractor left anyway)

Sorry if this is too much, appreciate the help
My advice is get your ballast and any other attachments you want at purchase to take advantage of the 0% financing (assuming you are getting that) I didn't do that and afterwards regretted it because when you look at dropping 1500 for an attachment or it adding 15 bucks a month into your financing,

I will always tell people to get forks. its the most used attachment i have. Ballast box is nice but depending on what attachments you are going to have and doing with you, you may find it useless. For instance some always have a back hoe on their tractor so ballast box isn't needed if you have an attachment on all the time. or if you want suitcase weights and a heavy hitch type thing.

For me personally i have given lots of thought to snow plows and I wanted the FEL plow but the more I saw Sully's snow pusher pics and videos, thats the direction I want to go as it would be best for my property.

A brush guard comes on the front but its kind of crappy. I broke my headlight trim piece from a rogue limb that went thru the brush guard.... I dont think JD has a better one, but people make aftermarket ones and people have added them DIY.

I have the R4's. If I had it to do over I would have made a bigger push for the Versa Turfs.

Good luck and have fun. its a great swiss army knife.
 
#60 ·
My advice is get your ballast and any other attachments you want at purchase to take advantage of the 0% financing (assuming you are getting that) I didn't do that and afterwards regretted it because when you look at dropping 1500 for an attachment or it adding 15 bucks a month into your financing,

I will always tell people to get forks. its the most used attachment i have. Ballast box is nice but depending on what attachments you are going to have and doing with you, you may find it useless. For instance some always have a back hoe on their tractor so ballast box isn't needed if you have an attachment on all the time. or if you want suitcase weights and a heavy hitch type thing.

For me personally i have given lots of thought to snow plows and I wanted the FEL plow but the more I saw Sully's snow pusher pics and videos, thats the direction I want to go as it would be best for my property.

A brush guard comes on the front but its kind of crappy. I broke my headlight trim piece from a rogue limb that went thru the brush guard.... I dont think JD has a better one, but people make aftermarket ones and people have added them DIY.

I have the R4's. If I had it to do over I would have made a bigger push for the Versa Turfs.

Good luck and have fun. its a great swiss army knife.
Hey Any clue what weight pallet forks a 1025r can handle? My dealer wont have any forks until september, so i'm looking at local 3rd party options, but they all seem to weigh about 300lbs. Is 300lbs too much for a 1025r?
 
#47 ·
Depending on your driveway and road entrance, you may be able to do all snow removal with your fel and bucket. That’s what I do and have no need for a separate plow. I just start from the garage and push it into the ditch across the road. Never used my snowblower all winter and just did a little snow shoveling for touch up. My tractor came with turf tires, but from what I’ve read on this forum, versa turfs are the ticket. I also bought a leftover ballast box at my Deere dealer for half price. Ballast is Menard pavers which are very inexpensive and work great.

A nice option not mentioned is the Load-N-Go ramps for your mower deck. They’re worth every penny for easy lifting, moving, cleaning and blade sharpening on your deck. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy them again.

And, don’t forget the spinner knob for your steering wheel. Used 90% of the time for quick and easy maneuvering.