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OK this may be a dumb question but can you mount a standard 2 inch ball hitch directly to the frame underneath the rear PTO on a 2019 1025R? Thanks for the responses. Be gentle, I’m new.
 

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Unless I’m mistaken the threaded stub of a hitch ball will not fit in the hole in the drawbar that you’re referring to.

My recommendation for using a hitch ball to move trailers etc, I have a “Heavy Hitch” which attaches to the 3 point hitch and takes a standard 2” receiver hitch stub, which then you can install a ball hitch. It works fantastic.
 

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You can. Because the ball will not be as far out, and depending on the length of the tongue on the trailer, if you turn too tight the front of the trailer could hit the back of the tractor.

Also, depending on the height of the trailer's tongue when level, a ball mounted to the tractor's draw plate may not be at the right height for the trailer. If you put in a 2" receiver in place of the original plate (offered by several companies, including HeavyHitch), you can then select a trailer hitch with an appropriate drop down or rise such that your trailer tongue will be level. A bonus is that this arrangement will connect further from the tractor and you won't have as big a problem with tight turns. Keeping the tongue level is a safety factor in pulling a trailer.
 

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I can install a ball on the hitch extension if needed...I have the Heavy Hitch receiver bolted in place of the hitch plate and a Hidden Hitch extended hitch. The cool part is I don't have to remove my I-match!
 

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There are a huge variety of 2" receiver hitches/balls out there. Maximize your possibilities.

It looks like it is attached with 4 bolts. Did you have to drill any holes?

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

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You can put a ball right on the tractors hitch. They make Hitch balls with smaller shanks. I ended up using a piece of 3/4” flat stock to extend the hitch a few inches to get more clearance of the 3pt hitch.

The receiver hitch is a popular add on. But it’s not really necessary. It does make changing ball sizes and heights quick and easy without tools.
 

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You can put a ball right on the tractors hitch. They make Hitch balls with smaller shanks. I ended up using a piece of 3/4” flat stock to extend the hitch a few inches to get more clearance of the 3pt hitch.

The receiver hitch is a popular add on. But it’s not really necessary. It does make changing ball sizes and heights quick and easy without tools.
I don’t have any trailers that will go low enough to hook to a ball on that draw plate. I use that 2" Heavy Hitch as a convenient point for attaching a variety of hooks and clevises because I think heavy pulling should be done from as low as possible on the tractor frame.



Trailers I haul from the 3-pt draw bar attached to my iMatch. With that, I can back up to the trailer, engage the ball, lift the trailer even with the trailer jack down. I can hook up and move a trailer without even getting out of the seat.
 

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I don’t have any trailers that will go low enough to hook to a ball on that draw plate. I use that 2" Heavy Hitch as a convenient point for attaching a variety of hooks and clevises because I think heavy pulling should be done from as low as possible on the tractor frame.



Trailers I haul from the 3-pt draw bar attached to my iMatch. With that, I can back up to the trailer, engage the ball, lift the trailer even with the trailer jack down. I can hook up and move a trailer without even getting out of the seat.
Exactly, and all the same reasons I use the 3pt hitch. More flexibility.
 

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I thought I had tried this once. The threaded shank on my Curt 2" ball is 0.75" in diameter. The hole in my draw plate (no longer on my tractor, I have the HeavyHitch 2" receiver in its place) I measured at 0.825". For a perfect fit, you might even want a small bushing to fill the gap. But this ball fits just fine on the original draw plate. You can get a little height adjustment by putting the plate on either the top or bottom of the mounting tabs, but it's unlikely it will be right for your trailer.

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