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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to start a thread on mesh gates for trailers..

Gonna show what I have/had in the past for others to go off of if you want to build one and what to think about.

First Ill start with my 16' trailer.. Gate is 3' long and built with 1 1/2" tubing.. Not sure what gauge but its on the light side. With what I knew I was gonna haul, and it being 3', I didnt think I needed anything heavy duty.. I placed the two close runners where my tires run with my tractors/mowers, so I have supports under the mesh.. I have run my 2520 with loaded rears and my 5' KK tiller on the back and no issues..

P1020028.JPG

Second trailer is my 20'er.. I wanted it built heavier, so its 4' and made from 2' tubing that I would guess is 1/8"??? I ordered this trailer from a manufacture, I did have them place one runner where I wanted it, but I had little say in the rest of the build.. I have run my 3500 roller up it a few times, and even loaded a 1996 F250 4x4 with 7.3 and no bends.. I will say the mesh in the small squares are pushed in...

P1020030.JPG

Next is my old gooseneck trailer that I built the gate too.. It was 5' and 2" tubing like the 20'er.. Wasnt the most attractive design but done the job.. I had this built at a shop and I think they used lighter tubing then what I wanted... When I got rid of the trailer, there was a slight bow in the gates.. I could see it, but others couldnt..

P1020032.JPG

Now for my current gooseneck, once again its 5' and 2" tubing.. Each gate is 28" wide. I know its 1/8" think tubing and very strong.. I have the runners placed where my tires run. Being a split gate, I think that strengthens it too. Works great and Im not afraid to drive anything up them that the trailer itself will handle.

P1020484.JPG

Now for Casper's gate that I just finished. 5' long and 2" tubing but lighter weight tubes.. Each gate is 36" wide. I wanted it as lightweight as possible but strong enough for my tractors/mowers. Cars and trucks I doubt I will use the gates, just take them off and use the pull out ramps.. It should hold a car just fine.. I went a different route and put a cross bar in to make the inside runners shorter, which I think makes the gate stronger.. From the inside out, runner 2 is where my tractors run, and runner 3 is where my zero turns run..

P1030410.JPG

Feel free to post up yours, or ask any questions for me or others to answer. This is a open thread for anyone.. :bigthumb:
 

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Nice looking trailers. I like the third one down (current gooseneck) the best. I wish I had a trailer and a truck to pull it with.
 

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Very nice. My first question would be how heavy are the gates and do you have any kind of lift assist on them? That's another advantage I could see to having a split gate, easier to lift. The gate is so heavy on my current trailer I added the Gorilla-Lift kit on it 'cause it wore me out lifting the gate without them.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Very nice. My first question would be how heavy are the gates and do you have any kind of lift assist on them? That's another advantage I could see to having a split gate, easier to lift. The gate is so heavy on my current trailer I added the Gorilla-Lift kit on it 'cause it wore me out lifting the gate without them.
I do have assist springs on my gooseneck and Casper. As many times as I load/unload every day they make a difference.. Also, I have mine set to hold the gate up 2-3" off the ground when no weight is on them.. I can even hold them up waist high and let them go easy and they will hang about knee high off the ground, that allows me to move the truck around on site if I need to with out pinning them all the way in transport position..
 

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I've used a few, first was a 5 x 8' that was built by my brother's Ag class. 1309.jpg The gate was bi-fold to cut the height down, I added short legs at the fold to assist in strength.

Next is my 1980 4 x 8' Snowco: 265.jpg The gate will fold inside the bed if I want, but I usually don't.

Then my 19 year old, 16' Woodworth (local builder), started out with slide-in ramps. After cancer treatments, the ramps were too heavy, so I took it back & had them install the 5' gate: HPIM3291.JPG It had coil springs on the hinge pins: Picture 077.jpg I added the garage door springs in exhaust tubing later. Last fall, I needed more length tfor better balance with the 790 & Woods finish mower, so I took it back to the builder again for some maintenance & to add a 2' dovetail & cut the gate down accordingly: Pictures 2015 001 (9).JPG Pictures 2015 002 (7).JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I like the design of the last trailer with only the mesh in the middle.. Using the angle iron on the outsides makes it flow better in the wind..

Question.... Looks to me like the gate is non removeable? From what I can see of the hinge, you cant remove the gate? :unknown:
 

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I like the design of the last trailer with only the mesh in the middle.. Using the angle iron on the outsides makes it flow better in the wind..

Question.... Looks to me like the gate is non removeable? From what I can see of the hinge, you cant remove the gate? :unknown:
No, too heavy, was built to hold up an 7,500+ lb tractor! GARDEN TRACTORS 043.jpg
 

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For the purposes of loading and unloading, I like a reinforced mesh gate. They are just so much safer than ramps... Or at least they make it feel safer.

However, I HATE them for towing. Sure the air will pass through them when you are putzing around in town, but it hits a point where the air simply can't get through the ramp quickly enough and it becomes a giant parachute. Not a big deal if you have a new 400hp/800ft-lb diesel powered monster to tow with... But if you check my signature, you'll see that I don't.

My gooseneck has detachable ramps that I have setup to hook onto any point along the outer edge of the deck (except the fenders) allowing me to load from the back or from either side. They store easily in little racks; one ramp on top of each fender. The main deck is low enough that most of the time I can get away without using them anyway.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
No, too heavy, was built to hold up an 7,500+ lb tractor! View attachment 128297
WOW! I wouldnt like that.. Looks to me if the holding rods (male end of the hinge) were not welded on the ends and instead use cotter pins and hole thru rod, and the drivers side turned around to slide in, you could remove the gate easy if you had to.

Everyones needs are different, Im aware of that, but I made all mine to be removable. I can take my 16' and 20'er off in less than 5 mins by myself, and the gooseneck and Casper's takes me bout 10 mins. Well, my loader with pallets help .. :hide:
 

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However, I HATE them for towing. Sure the air will pass through them when you are putzing around in town, but it hits a point where the air simply can't get through the ramp quickly enough and it becomes a giant parachute. Not a big deal if you have a new 400hp/800ft-lb diesel powered monster to tow with... But if you check my signature, you'll see that I don't.

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YES SIR!!!! Way back years ago, I had a 1990 1/2 ton Chevy with the 5.0 and 5sp. Was geared high. I hopped on the interstate once with empty 18' trailer and 4' gate. I could get up to 65-70 and set the cruise in 5th and barely hold speed. Any and I mean any incline and I would start losing speed and would never recover. Id have to kick cruise off, shift down to 4th wind her back up and try again. Finally I just set cruise in 4th. I was going to a auction. Never bought anything and while I was getting to my truck to leave I asked a guy that was walking by to help me take gate off and set on trailer.

Got to the interstate to come home, set cruise on 70 in 5th and never had a problem.... I knew I had a trailer, but hills were never a problem.. If Im going a distance, I will remove them and take my ramps, or my gooseneck and Casper I can lay them down if length of load allows..
 

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WOW! I wouldnt like that.. Looks to me if the holding rods (male end of the hinge) were not welded on the ends and instead use cotter pins and hole thru rod, and the drivers side turned around to slide in, you could remove the gate easy if you had to. :hide:
I think what you're looking at are the bolts that hold the hinge pins (3/8"), no cotter keys.



As for drag, I normally have a tractor sticking up in front of the gate, don't normally notice that much mileage difference. I'm towing with a 5.3L Chevy, when I towed the 720 diesel, I had a 6L.
 

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Like the reinforcement of the mesh gates.

Just the other month traded in my 5' W for a 6'6" W trailer. I had the option for either spring assist or fold flat lift gate.

For me choose the fold flat lift gate guessing I saved at least 4-6 mpg or better with the fold flat .
Since I've only pulled it home and parked it , I haven't needed to tow it any more. But the difference it makes in towing , OH What a Difference :bigthumb::bigthumb:
 
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