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Discussion Starter #1
I have a new 3033r coming with a 375a backhoe, H165 loader.

I have a 16' dual axle 10k trailer. Truck is a F 250 powerstroke with rear bags.

Will the tractor fit on the trailer?

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it should.
 

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16' may be too short without it hanging off on both ends. It will be difficult to get the load balanced right as well since there won't be any fore/aft room to move the tractor. You only choice may be to load it forwards vs backwards. Weight wise you should be fine.


BTW, I moved this to the truck/trailer forum for a better fit and more responses. :thumbup1gif:
 

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With the FEL and backhoe I also think you'll bee a little short, especially to tow "legally" with the two buckets on the trailer deck.
 
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How often do you need to tow it? Just getting home or every week?

You should have no problem getting it on there but the backhoe may hang off the back or you may need to hang the bucket over the trailer hitch. You could put the bucket in the box of the truck to get the tractor farther forward on the trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How often do you need to tow it? Just getting home or every week?

You should have no problem getting it on there but the backhoe may hang off the back or you may need to hang the bucket over the trailer hitch. You could put the bucket in the box of the truck to get the tractor farther forward on the trailer.
I don't think very often but I have a house 3 hrs north that I'll take it to from time to time.

Outside of there maybe 2 to 3 times a month max on the trailer.

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I'm sure you'll be able to get it home on the 16ft. From there you can see how much of a hassle it is load and get balanced and then decide if you want to get a bigger trailer. Every trailer is a bit different.
 

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Not much for me to add. Like others have said, try your trailer and see how it works for you. You may find it works fine for your needs.
 

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The tractor should fit, but you're going to have a very tough time setting it up to tow legally with the backhoe on there. I had an 18' trailer with 24" beavertail (16' flat) and my 2520 fit comfortably (and it doesn't have a backhoe). The ballast box had about 6" that didn't sit on the flat part of the deck once it was properly positioned.

You'll have to try it out and see how it goes. Keep in mind that positioning the machine for proper weight on the tongue is part of the "measurement". You can't tow safely (let along legally) if you shove the machine too far forward just to get the backhoe to not protrude through the ramps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The tractor should fit, but you're going to have a very tough time setting it up to tow legally with the backhoe on there. I had an 18' trailer with 24" beavertail (16' flat) and my 2520 fit comfortably (and it doesn't have a backhoe). The ballast box had about 6" that didn't sit on the flat part of the deck once it was properly positioned.

You'll have to try it out and see how it goes. Keep in mind that positioning the machine for proper weight on the tongue is part of the "measurement". You can't tow safely (let along legally) if you shove the machine too far forward just to get the backhoe to not protrude through the ramps.
Yeah, good point. My gut says it'll be to small. Sucks because I just got this trailer a couple years ago and it wasn't cheap at all.

So, if I have to swap to something bigger what size should I get?

18' or 20' and 10k or 14k???

Steel or aluminum??

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A lot of that depends on your regs and your tow vehicle. Here in CT, I refused to take on anything over 10k because it requires either a DOT number or special waiver from DOT that you have to apply for and show non-commercial use, etc. And, while you certainly have to take into account what you're currently towing with, give some thought to what might happen in the future as well. Don't oversize yourself such that you have to have a heavier duty vehicle to tow with in the future.

As far as length, you'll have to sort of "figure that out" by seeing how it fits on your 16' trailer and kind of going from there.

The good news is that everyone selling a used equipment trailer believes they are made out of gold and price them accordingly... You should be able to recoup MOST of what you spent on it if you have to sell it outright. After you do, look around at the dealers in your general area and push them against one another to make them compete. I was going to drive to PA to buy a Big Tex 10ET-18 until a dealer in NH (MUCH closer) agreed to match the price. Be sure to ask what the MSRP is of a trailer and then figure out from there what you should spend.

A $5000 trailer (MSRP) should have a base cost to the dealer of roughly $2500-$2800 and a freight charge of around $200-$400 depending on where it's coming from. If you knew what I paid for my trailer, you'd be absolutely disgusted with what dealers regularly charge people to buy the same trailer.
 

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Yeah, good point. My gut says it'll be to small. Sucks because I just got this trailer a couple years ago and it wasn't cheap at all.

So, if I have to swap to something bigger what size should I get?

18' or 20' and 10k or 14k???

Steel or aluminum??

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
The length of the trailer will depend a lot on the axle location.

I'd suggest using your trailer as a test. Put the load where it needs to be for the proper balance / tongue weight, then get out the tape measure.

I have an 18' + a 2' dovetail. However where the axles are positioned, the sweet spot with the FEL and bush hog on leaves the tail wheel just off the deck. With a heavier implement, like a backhoe, on the trailer, it would be perfect.

I'd love to have a slider on the axles...:hide:
 

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The length of the trailer will depend a lot on the axle location.

I'd suggest using your trailer as a test. Put the load where it needs to be for the proper balance / tongue weight, then get out the tape measure.

I have an 18' + a 2' dovetail. However where the axles are positioned, the sweet spot with the FEL and bush hog on leaves the tail wheel just off the deck. With a heavier implement, like a backhoe, on the trailer, it would be perfect.

I'd love to have a slider on the axles...:hide:
Yep. And then you have to extrapolate from there using ratios to understand how long the trailer needs to be. You wouldn't measure the backhoe hanging over by 18" and just get a trailer 2' longer because you'd end up still hanging off of the back (just not as far). Each manufacturer sets their trailers up a little differently in terms of where the axles are placed relative to the length of the trailer - you'll want to take that into consideration.
 
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Yep. And then you have to extrapolate from there using ratios to understand how long the trailer needs to be. You wouldn't measure the backhoe hanging over by 18" and just get a trailer 2' longer because you'd end up still hanging off of the back (just not as far). Each manufacturer sets their trailers up a little differently in terms of where the axles are placed relative to the length of the trailer - you'll want to take that into consideration.
Good point.

A slide rule might come in handy, if your into that kind of math..:munch:

I was just thinking from the stand point of getting a ballpark idea of where to start. X room in front of the axle, X room behind the axle. At least you have a starting point when window shopping.


I would say that you'll be pulling it enough times, and far enough that the cost of a good trailer for it will be worth the :gizmo:

Hopefully someone on here has the same setup and can share what they have / use that will also help.
 

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I have a new 3033r coming with a 375a backhoe, H165 loader.

I have a 16' dual axle 10k trailer. Truck is a F 250 powerstroke with rear bags.

Will the tractor fit on the trailer?

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Not to get off topic... but since you mentioned them I thought I'd ask your opinion on the rear bags? I've never used them on a pickup, but have considered them.
 

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Not to get off topic... but since you mentioned them I thought I'd ask your opinion on the rear bags? I've never used them on a pickup, but have considered them.
Air bags are intended to provide variable ride quality that you can adjust depending on the terrain and load. Many people misuse them, however, and believe that full inflation (which will keep the truck from compressing down the to the bump stop height) allows them to tow / haul more weight. Of all of the people that I've read about using them, NONE have been for ride quality improvement.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Not to get off topic... but since you mentioned them I thought I'd ask your opinion on the rear bags? I've never used them on a pickup, but have considered them.
I love them. I have the air lift 5000 bags. They do wonders. I have a 07 f250 powerstroke and I've had my trailer loaded to the gills with wet oak firewood rounds. It works out to be about 3 cord split. So, if you know those weights its really heavy and actually to heavy. But, the bags level the truck off and it handles the weight very well and looks great going down the road with no sag on the truck at all.

They were one of the best things I've done.

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I have been frustrated by not easily finding overall dimension from Deere or Kubota so I did an experiment.

Build your own and when finished, rotate the picture of the complete tractor so you view it orthography ally from the side. I did this on a 30th and found the overall length is 3 the wheelbase. So the 70" wheelbase means 210 inches overall = 17.5 feet from cutting edge of loader to outside of the backhoe bucket bottom with it pinned in park. 20 foot trailer so you can control hitch weight.
 

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Damn word correction

Orthographically
3046
You can edit your post for up to 12 hours after you've posted it. :thumbup1gif: After that it takes a staff member. Just let us know, we can fix it for you. :drinks: I have to fix DRobinson's all the time. :lol:
 
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