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On a 1025R can you just change the transmission filter without draining all the transmission fluid or do you loose a lot of transmission fluid thru the filter housing when you take it off?
Thanks!
 

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Does the manual mention a service with just a filter change?
Just wondering about why you might want to change the filter but not the hydraulic fluid too.

Id guess you could do it, and would lose some fluid, but certainly not all of it.
Even if it would all leak out if left off, if you are quick, you can swap filters fast enough to avoid much loss. No guarantee it wont be messy though.
 

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If you insist on changing the filter without changing fluid simply place a CLEAN drain pan under the filter to catch the oil that leaks out. Then pour the oil back in.
 
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Be sure before starting to unscrew the old filter that you have a clear path to get it around any interfering tractor parts, and plan how you'll put the old filter down quickly and get the new one into position and threaded correctly. The MMM supports can require a turn or repositioning of the filter on the way out and in. And, the old filter will become slippery as fluid leaks on your hand, and that slipperiness will transfer to the new filter.

Oh, clean dirt and oil from around the old filter before you start to remove it. You won't have a break to clean up the area after you start unscrewing it.

Have fun. And be sure the fluid isn't too hot before it starts to run down your arm to your elbow.
:thumbup1gif:
 

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If you insist on changing the filter without changing fluid simply place a CLEAN drain pan under the filter to catch the oil that leaks out. Then pour the oil back in.
It is still likely that you'll have some dirt or other foreign matter dislodge from the bottom side of the tractor and fall into the drain pan. Whenever I re-utilize a drained fluid, I always use a paper funnel filter insert (typically used in auto refinishing to filter paint) when refilling. They are very reasonable at Harbor Freight and they stock two different meshes.
 

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If the filter's purpose is to catch debris contained in the fluid, I am having trouble trying to determine why one would want to change the filter but not the fluid.........If the fluid has enough "contamination" or "dirt" or whatever one wants to call it to warrant a filter change, it would seem a fluid change would also be advised.

I suppose you could damage the filter housing in some way perhaps by having an object strike the filter, which in that case, it would be wise to immediately change it so it's function isn't impaired. But I would also be concerned that any type of impact or damage to a filter could cause it to dislodge trapped contaminants, which would lead me back to also wanting all new fluid.

In any event, I wouldn't consider changing the filter and not the fluid as having met a suggested service interval. The other issue is it's going to be difficult to determine how much fluid is lost in the process and will need to be replaced unless you measure the fluid lost. While hopefully much of the fluid will end up in the drain pan, there will also be some which doesn't. Definitely wear those clear safety goggles which tightly fit your face if you undertake this approach as you have to get under the tractor to be able to see what you are doing and with the filter above the drain plug, you are likely to be wearing some of the fluid by time you are done.

The way the dipstick works on many of these machines, when refilling the fluid, nothing is showing on the dipstick and all of a sudden, its full. As always, when refilling, proceed slowly to make sure you don't overfill.
 
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If the filter's purpose is to catch debris contained in the fluid, I am having trouble trying to determine why one would want to change the filter but not the fluid.........If the fluid has enough "contamination" or "dirt" or whatever one wants to call it to warrant a filter change, it would seem a fluid change would also be advised.

I suppose you could damage the filter housing in some way perhaps by having an object strike the filter, which in that case, it would be wise to immediately change it so it's function isn't impaired. But I would also be concerned that any type of impact or damage to a filter could cause it to dislodge trapped contaminants, which would lead me back to also wanting all new fluid.

In any event, I wouldn't consider changing the filter and not the fluid as having met a suggested service interval. The other issue is it's going to be difficult to determine how much fluid is lost in the process and will need to be replaced unless you measure the fluid lost. While hopefully much of the fluid will end up in the drain pan, there will also be some which doesn't. Definitely wear those clear safety goggles which tightly fit your face if you undertake this approach as you have to get under the tractor to be able to see what you are doing and with the filter above the drain plug, you are likely to be wearing some of the fluid by time you are done.

The way the dipstick works on many of these machines, when refilling the fluid, nothing is showing on the dipstick and all of a sudden, its full. As always, when refilling, proceed slowly to make sure you don't overfill.



That's when those five gallon pails with the hand pump on top come in really handy. One "pump" is roughly equal to half a cup. Very easy to be precise.
 

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If the filter's purpose is to catch debris contained in the fluid, I am having trouble trying to determine why one would want to change the filter but not the fluid.........If the fluid has enough "contamination" or "dirt" or whatever one wants to call it to warrant a filter change, it would seem a fluid change would also be advised.
I'm not a hydraulic expert but it seems that changing the hydraulic filter a couple times without changing the fluid is not uncommon. Like you mention above, the filter collects debris from the oil. So naturally the filter will continue to get dirty while the oil will stay perfectly clean. Change the filter and now you have a clean filter and clean oil. The only exception would be if the oil has been subjected to excessive heat which can cause it to degrade.

A perfect example of this are the new 2-series tractors. They have a 1200 hr (3 year) hydraulic oil change interval but you are still supposed to change the hydraulic filter and suction filter every 400 hrs.
 
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I'm not a hydraulic expert but it seems that changing the hydraulic filter a couple times without changing the fluid is not uncommon. Like you mention above, the filter collects debris from the oil. So naturally the filter will continue to get dirty while the oil will stay perfectly clean. Change the filter and now you have a clean filter and clean oil. The only exception would be if the oil has been subjected to excessive heat which can cause it to degrade.

A perfect example of this are the new 2-series tractors. They have a 1200 hr (3 year) hydraulic oil change interval but you are still supposed to change the hydraulic filter and suction filter every 400 hrs.
The issue isn't really dirt or viscosity, its condensation. I change mine just to get the water out that inevitably comes with leaving a warm garage and going out in the cold.
 

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The issue isn't really dirt or viscosity, its condensation. I change mine just to get the water out that inevitably comes with leaving a warm garage and going out in the cold.
I always thought you got more condensation when things were cold and you go into a warm garage?
 

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I'm not a hydraulic expert but it seems that changing the hydraulic filter a couple times without changing the fluid is not uncommon. Like you mention above, the filter collects debris from the oil. So naturally the filter will continue to get dirty while the oil will stay perfectly clean. Change the filter and now you have a clean filter and clean oil. The only exception would be if the oil has been subjected to excessive heat which can cause it to degrade.

A perfect example of this are the new 2-series tractors. They have a 1200 hr (3 year) hydraulic oil change interval but you are still supposed to change the hydraulic filter and suction filter every 400 hrs.


They also claimed the tranny fluid on my '09 F150 was "lifetime", except no one wanted to own up to the repair bill when I was just a few thousand clicks past warranty. :mocking:
 

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The other thing that must be considered on a 1025R is, the spin on hydraulic filter only filters the oil that is being supplied to the tractor propel pump and motor. Yes, it is likely that most of the oil will eventually get through this filter, although, there is nothing designed into the hydraulic system that guarantees that all oil will flow through this filter within a certain amount of time. There is no return hydraulic filter on these tractors.

These tractors rely on the suction screen cleaning the oil sufficiently for the SCV side of the hydraulic system, and the spin on filter, filters the oil to 3 microns filtration for the propel side of the hydraulic system.

Clean oil and clean suction screens are essential to long life. The only way to accomplish this is to drain the oil, clean the suction screen carefully and refill with fresh clean low-vis hydraulic oil.
 
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Clean oil and clean suction screens are essential to long life. The only way to accomplish this is to drain the oil, clean the suction screen carefully and refill with fresh clean low-vis hydraulic oil.
I suspect the filters on these tractors are doing a good job. Both times that I changed hydraulic fluid in my 2720 the oil came out crystal clear. Oddly, my X500 garden tractor does not have an external filter that you can change. It has a small screen inside that can only be accessed by disassembling the transaxle. But... I've changed hydraulic fluid in it twice so far and despite not having an external filter the fluid was absolutely crystal clear both times I've changed it.

I continue to follow the manual's recommendations on fluid/filter change intervals but the above tells me that many of us are probably throwing away oil which still has a lot of life in it.

Like I mentioned above... the new 2032R/2038R now have a 1200 hr oil change interval but only if you change the filters every 400 hrs, use Hy-Gard and have an oil analysis performed every 400 hrs or once a year. Oddly enough, the new 2025R still has a 200 hr oil/filter change interval.
 
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I suspect the filters on these tractors are doing a good job. Both times that I changed hydraulic fluid in my 2720 the oil came out crystal clear. Oddly, my X500 garden tractor does not have an external filter that you can change. It has a small screen inside that can only be accessed by disassembling the transaxle. But... I've changed hydraulic fluid in it twice so far and despite not having an external filter the fluid was absolutely crystal clear both times I've changed it.

I continue to follow the manual's recommendations on fluid/filter change intervals but the above tells me that many of us are probably throwing away oil which still has a lot of life in it.

Like I mentioned above... the new 2032R/2038R now have a 1200 hr oil change interval but only if you change the filters every 400 hrs, use Hy-Gard and have an oil analysis performed every 400 hrs or once a year. Oddly enough, the new 2025R still has a 200 hr oil/filter change interval.
Most likely the difference has to do with how they filter the oil in the systems. Possibly the larger 2 series tractors have a return filter.:dunno: This would make the difference.

Also, it is almost impossible to know the condition of hydraulic oil by visually looking at it. Heck, brand new in the bucket hydraulic oil isn't filtered fine enough to be put directly into most equipment. It must be filtered first. This is the difference between buying John Deere oil and aftermarket oil. The John Deere oil is filtered to their spec prior to putting it in the bucket so you are buying pre-filtered oil. If you buy, aftermarket oil, you are probably not buying filtered hydraulic oil.
 
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trans oil change

I'm not a hydraulic expert but it seems that changing the hydraulic filter a couple times without changing the fluid is not uncommon. Like you mention above, the filter collects debris from the oil. So naturally the filter will continue to get dirty while the oil will stay perfectly clean. Change the filter and now you have a clean filter and clean oil. The only exception would be if the oil has been subjected to excessive heat which can cause it to degrade.

A perfect example of this are the new 2-series tractors. They have a 1200 hr (3 year) hydraulic oil change interval but you are still supposed to change the hydraulic filter and suction filter every 400 hrs.
Ha, ha. This cracks me up. Not only has the military experimented with this idea of only changing only the filter and not the oil, but the then Standard Oil Company also looked at it also for racing applications (yea, yea, I know that they want to sell more oil). Both rejected the idea years ago. The conclusion is to replace the filter and the oil at the same time, since there is little to be gained without changing the oil at the same time. Generally, the filters are not that good to take out all of the debris and contaminants, so the oil has to be changed also. By the way, how good are your oil filters ? Take a look at some of the You Tube tests on the internet. You will be highly disappointed in the filters.
 
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