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Trying to level Box Blade

1954 Views 13 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Treefarmer
My adjustable right side link will not turn. I wanted to remove the link but cannot remove the jam nut at the bottom. I used a pipe wrench because I could not find a socket to fit the nut. It seems to be between 11/16 and 3/4 inch. Anyone with an idea how to remove the nut? I will appreciate any advice.
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Which tractor? On my 1025R the mounting bolt nut at the bottom of the adjustable arm is 18mm, with plenty of room to get to it using either an impact wrench or breaker bar.

I believe that Deere uses all metric fasteners - at least it seems that way on mine. A 3/4 inch wrench is very close to a 19mm metric, so your 3/4" wrench will be loose on this 18 mm nut and might round off the nut . I'd go buy an 18mm wrench or 18mm 6-point socket for this job.
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16mm & 17mm both lie between 5/8 & 11/16. All fasteners on most, if not all, Deere tractors manufactured since the last decade of the 20th century are metric.

EDIT: Sorry, I misread your post*. 18mm is the size between 11/16 and 3/4.

* A lot of people SAY they have dyslexia - I was actually diagnosed with it in my 30's. Misreading numbers is one of the issues I most frequently encounter.
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Assuming we are talking about the adjustable side link, I’m happy to see your post as I have the same problem with my 2038R and feared I was just a wimp because I couldn’t release a lousy jam nut. I only have a 12” adjustable that fits this nut and couldn’t budge it even with a short cheeter.

Just a couple of hours ago I dropped off it off at the dealer for something else and asked them pop it loose.

Not sure about the reference to a socket…
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Just a reminder that many times a stuck nut will come right loose if you put the wrench (use a proper size for this) on the nut, apply some pressure and then hit the wrench with a hammer. Don't whale away on it as among other things it will give the hand holding the wrench the tingles but give it more than a tap.

It's a poor man's impact wrench but make sure you have a good fitting wrench before doing this.
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Just a reminder that many times a stuck nut will come right loose if you put the wrench (use a proper size for this) on the nut, apply some pressure and then hit the wrench with a hammer. Don't whale away on it as among other things it will give the hand holding the wrench the tingles but give it more than a tap.

It's a poor man's impact wrench but make sure you have a good fitting wrench before doing this.
Just be sure to smack the wrench in the right direction and turn the nut loose, not tighten it even more ..
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The OP says jam nut, but as my 1025R doesn't have a jam nut on the bottom like he described, and because he said he wants to remove the adjustable link and not just loosen it, I'm still assuming he means the nut on the bolt holding the adjustable link, pictured here at the very bottom of the picture (which is not a jam nut by definition). It is 18mm. The length adjustment jam nut near the top of the picture is 1-3/16" - at least that's the size open end wrench I use to move it. I don't have any open end metric wrenches that big. It loosens counter-clockwise, if you imagine looking down onto it from the top of the picture. Mine just a few minutes ago required a tap with a hammer on the end of the 1-3/16" open end wrench to break it free. Penetrating oil and an overnight wait would have been my next approach if the tap had not loosened it. And please don't report me to the safety police for removing the rear PTO shield.
801087
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Maybe the OP needs to clarify what he's trying to loosen...

801098


To loosen the jamb nut two wrenches might be needed (1 on the nut, 1 on the body).
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I just loosened my jam nut for the first time to straighten my 3ph yesterday and my jam nut was jammed not, I loosened it with my fingers.......then tightened with the same...........turned the turn buckel by hand as well. Of course, its much easier to do these when there is nothing but the IMatch on the 3ph........

If he is trying to level the Box Blade, not sure how removing the Lock Nut on the 3ph arm would achieve anything. The adjustment is all in the turn buckle for leveling an implement.
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I can't say that I've taken the lower lock nut off on the adjustable link, but John deere will use red lock tite on nuts that will not typically be removed.
To remove red lock tite you can use a bit of flame heat directed towards the threads, then a breaker bar to loosen.
This one I believe is a Nylock, so a bit more torque is what you'll need. Maybe grab an impact and work at it.

I do believe prior to attempting to remove the adjustable link all together... to use penetration oil on the jam nut and keep the adjustable link fastened to the 3 point hitch.
If you continue to have issues, unpin the U-bracket at the top and attempt to work the nut off by helping yourself rotate the U-bracket.

On topic, but side stepped... having a lower jam nut helps secure and prevent the adjustable link from loosening while operating.... I do find having only 1 jam nut at the top isn't enough to hold tight..... (when its not seized)

It's not a bad idea to apply a bit of zinc anti-seize on these threads.

Hope you got it!
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Mother Deere is only gonna give Birth to 1 jam nut with RH threads.

Supplying the other would be an intercontinental disaster to get some dirt floor shop to build one with LH threads.
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Mother Deere is only gonna give Birth to 1 jam nut with RH threads.

Supplying the other would be an intercontinental disaster to get some dirt floor shop to build one with LH threads.
I hear ya! But Mother Deere did give Birth to a potential solution... we just need to explore her wilderness ha!

I'm an avid attachment user, and the adjustment link once upon a time was a - pain in the you know what - when the jam nut or turnbuckle would come loose... then next thing I know I'm out of level using the box blade or land plane.

I simply cut off about half an inch off the bottom (LH thread) of the turnbuckle, deburr and done. Save your pennies, and don't waste your time thinking you need a shop to do it.
Ever since I added the bottom jam nut, I'm confident in the security of the link.

For anyone thinking maybe a lock washer could do the job, I tried it with a 7/8 lock washer, but found I fought it most times digging into the turn buckle itself when tightening and breaking loose.
I would recommend giving it a try so you experience it before cutting the bottom of the turn buckle - you may be ok with it if this is something you feel you need to do.
I do have zinc anti-seize inside the turnbuckle on both ends.

Back on topic, I used a 18mm socket on an impact and removed the bottom link nylock. I had to try it - it will break loose.

Simple yet easy Modification.
I do plan to weld on a handle on the turnbuckle to help hold and rotate one day, so I only need 1 adjustable in the tool box.

Hope this helps anyone who may be experiencing the adjustable link from coming loose.

801545
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I hear ya! But Mother Deere did give Birth to a potential solution... we just need to explore her wilderness ha!

I'm an avid attachment user, and the adjustment link once upon a time was a - pain in the you know what - when the jam nut or turnbuckle would come loose... then next thing I know I'm out of level using the box blade or land plane.

I simply cut off about half an inch off the bottom (LH thread) of the turnbuckle, deburr and done. Save your pennies, and don't waste your time thinking you need a shop to do it.
Ever since I added the bottom jam nut, I'm confident in the security of the link.

For anyone thinking maybe a lock washer could do the job, I tried it with a 7/8 lock washer, but found I fought it most times digging into the turn buckle itself when tightening and breaking loose.
I would recommend giving it a try so you experience it before cutting the bottom of the turn buckle - you may be ok with it if this is something you feel you need to do.
I do have zinc anti-seize inside the turnbuckle on both ends.

Back on topic, I used a 18mm socket on an impact and removed the bottom link nylock. I had to try it - it will break loose.

Simple yet easy Modification.
I do plan to weld on a handle on the turnbuckle to help hold and rotate one day, so I only need 1 adjustable in the tool box.

Hope this helps anyone who may be experiencing the adjustable link from coming loose.

View attachment 801545
A fantastic and ingenius Fix Sir.

Back in the day Circa Mid 90's
The turnbuckle had no nuts but a slick slideing and interlocking set up.No Tools required and the whole set up has Zerk fittings....This unit is on my 955...it was an upgrade as I read in the parts area.
AND
On the other side you could pull a pin and adjust that side long or short...just took Longer.
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A fantastic and ingenius Fix Sir.

Back in the day Circa Mid 90's
The turnbuckle had no nuts but a slick slideing and interlocking set up.No Tools required and the whole set up has Zerk fittings....This unit is on my 955...it was an upgrade as I read in the parts area.
AND
On the other side you could pull a pin and adjust that side long or short...just took Longer.
Those were very handy and couldn't have been that expensive to make. Mmmm, might have to put that on the To Do list and see if they can be replicated.
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