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I have a 2025r with a factory installed backhoe, my 3 point came in a box. I installed the 3 point, leveled it using the adjustable side link. I connected the rotary cutter and went to adjust the rake, 2" higher in the back than the front and immediately ran into a problem, my toplink is all the way tight and the cutter is sitting level front to back. it looks to me like the way to raise the rear is by tightening the toplink. How do I raise the rear? :unknown::unknown:

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You raise the rear with the tail wheel.

Dave
 

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isn't the rear wheel adjustable...most seem to be by moving to a different set of bolt holes on the tail end wheel.

be sure it is swiveled "back" as the heigth will change if its forward ...if that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You raise the rear with the tail wheel.

Dave
I certainly though about that but after watching several million youtube videos it seemed like that was the wrong way to do it. (can you tell I'm new? :thumbup1gif:) What I'd seen was that I needed to raise the cutter to the height of cut I wanted in the front, then adjust the toplink until the rear was 2" higher, then drop the tail wheel to the ground and put a pin in the closest hole.

If all it takes is just using the tailwheel to get the height, great! I'll try that :good2:
 

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It should "ride" on the rear wheel...on the front ..you raise/lower the 3 point depending on your ground.

Mine is all hilly so I'm up/down constantly.

It appears you have the swivel unit @ the top of the 3 point...you need this centered so it won't bind up ..For instance driving through a small ditch.
And there are times you want to lift it clear up with the rear wheel up...theres a fine line to getting it right.

My driveshaft will bind against the the top front edge of mower deck and has cut the plastic driveline sheild.

Other instances where you want the rear of mower to drop as far as possible; backing up to hillside drop offs to get whatever weeds /grass. Keep an eye on driveline as it will move in /out quite a ways in the extremes.

You don't want to stuff the driveline;;into the rear/pto
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It appears you have the swivel unit @ the top of the 3 point...you need this centered so it won't bind up
Can you clarify what you mean by the swivel unit? I googled and couldn't find anything.

I too have pretty uneven ground and I try to raise and lower it so that I don't articulate the whole thing too much, I'm also trying to avoid plowing the front end too much.
 

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Can you clarify what you mean by the swivel unit? I googled and couldn't find anything.

I too have pretty uneven ground and I try to raise and lower it so that I don't articulate the whole thing too much, I'm also trying to avoid plowing the front end too much.
Its the part that’s hooked up under the top link.
 

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I have a 2025r with a factory installed backhoe, my 3 point came in a box. I installed the 3 point, leveled it using the adjustable side link. I connected the rotary cutter and went to adjust the rake, 2" higher in the back than the front and immediately ran into a problem, my toplink is all the way tight and the cutter is sitting level front to back. it looks to me like the way to raise the rear is by tightening the toplink. How do I raise the rear? :unknown::unknown:
Are you certain you have the correct hitch for your tractor? The top link looks a bit long in the picture. Wouldn't be the first time someone got the wrong hitch.
 

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Your mower should not look like this when lifted,,



You want the tail to be lower when lifted, so that when you go over a "hump" the mower will continue to cut.

If the mower is level when lifted, the mower will come off the ground when you travel over a hump.

The tail wheel should control the position of the rear of the mower.

Some people that need even more movement of the mower will replace the top link with a short length of chain.
When the machine travels through a "valley", the chain will go slack, the mower stays in proper cutting position,,,

The front is controlled by the three point arm position

To get absolute repeat of the three point arm position, there is a chain kit that causes the arms to go down to the same position each time,,

 

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Are you certain you have the correct hitch for your tractor? The top link looks a bit long in the picture. Wouldn't be the first time someone got the wrong hitch.
The Gen-2 2025R top-link is pretty long, just like the other Gen-2 2-series. According to JD Parts it adjusts from 19.6" to 27.5".

Specification
Weight: 6.92 LBS 3.14 Kg
Category Number1
Hole Size0.748 IN
Size0.748 IN
Body Length16.457 IN
Adjust From19.685 IN
Adjust To27.559 IN
FinishK
 

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As others stated:
Adjust the cutting height you want with your 3PT. (leave the top link off for now)
Then adjust the "rake" by adjusting the rear wheel.
Be sure the rear wheel is "to the rear, fork to the rear" if turned 180° (the fork) the rear of the cutter will be higher, than when it turns back 180° (which it will when going forward)

Without the top link on, try moving the upper mount of the cutter forward and back. Put it midway in it's range of movement. Adjust your top link to connect at this mid position. Next raise and lower your 3PT (mower NOT running) and check for PTO shaft hitting the top front of the deck. Adjust if necessary.

Some use a chain instead of a top link. This lets the mower tilt forward more when crossing a ditch, going from a steep hill to flat ground, but you have to be careful of PTO shaft angle and not let it bind. Some use no top link at all. Then you have to watch the PTO shaft angle when the mower tilts up or down. You will need a top link or chain to carry the mower (not running) with the tail wheel off the ground. Maybe "roading" the tractor to a different property.
 

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You want the tail to be lower when lifted, so that when you go over a "hump" the mower will continue to cut.
That makes zero sense. The rear of the mower (no matter what kind) should always be slightly higher. If you go over a hump the mower will still cut, but the thing is that it will just scalp the top of the hump unless you lift the mower up.

The tail wheel should control the angle of the mower. Just set it up so that when the mower is at cutting height, the back end is slightly higher than the front, supported by the tail wheel.
 

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That makes zero sense. The rear of the mower (no matter what kind) should always be slightly higher. If you go over a hump the mower will still cut, but the thing is that it will just scalp the top of the hump unless you lift the mower up.

The tail wheel should control the angle of the mower. Just set it up so that when the mower is at cutting height, the back end is slightly higher than the front, supported by the tail wheel.
No, Cadplans is correct. When I have my cutter adjusted properly the tail wheel will barely, if any, come off the ground when the 3pt is in the fully raised position. That way when I lower it the cutter will have the ability to pivot up or down to follow the contour of the earth.

Having the top link too short with impede the cutters ability to follow the ground. If you google “semi mount” cutters you’ll find that they don’t even have a top link so that the cutter can move up and down.

Shortening the top link is only for transport mode.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Are you certain you have the correct hitch for your tractor? The top link looks a bit long in the picture. Wouldn't be the first time someone got the wrong hitch.
The Gen-2 2025R top-link is pretty long, just like the other Gen-2 2-series. According to JD Parts it adjusts from 19.6" to 27.5".

Specification
Weight: 6.92 LBS 3.14 Kg
Category Number1
Hole Size0.748 IN
Size0.748 IN
Body Length16.457 IN
Adjust From19.685 IN
Adjust To27.559 IN
FinishK
After I put on Kenny's extended hook I found that I needed a shorter top link, IMO the top link that comes with the 2025 could in fact be slightly shorter.
It looks like a Frontier cutter, I set the rear height with the tailwheel, lower the rockshaft to where I want the front and then use the top link adjustment to set the "float" of the top link. Once you have your height set adjust the top link so the the float is in the middle of the slide, this will allow the cutter to cut when encountering uneven ground. I have to agree with CAD, once adjusted when I'm in the field my tailwheel will be only a few inches off the ground when fully raised.
 

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Check orientation of lower 3-point arms

I am assuming that the 3-point hitch on your tractor is similar to mine. The lower arms on the 3-point hitch can each be reversed. That is, the end connected to the tractor can be turned around and connected to the implement. One direction will give you more lifting strength but less lifting height. The other direction will give you less lifting strength but more lifting height. The manual probably helps with this, but if you're like me you might have just put them on thinking "this seems to work" without understanding the options.

Keane
 
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