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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently picked up a Woods TSG50 for the land I'm working right now and noting the comments some others have left on the forum, I'd like to note my experience and observations. Perhaps for the benefit of others considering getting one of these little beasts but more to hear what those who have one themselves can add to what I'm seeing.

First, I have about 10 acres of dead ash forest in varying states of disarray. The ash borer beetle came and left no survivors. Most of my ash was about 5 to 30yrs old, some older (3ft BH trunks) and all dead. It’s a real shame. Anyway, all these ash are falling and making a real mess with the up-shoot of rose bushes, raspberries and autumn olive. If I don't get rid of this mess now, it’s only going to get worse for many years to come. So, myself and my neighbors have been out cutting down everything ash, bucking it up and heating their homes (I can't use the wood for heat) leaving fields of stumps. Below are some photos from much earlier this winter... many more stumps are out there now. About 1.5 times the area in the photos lie behind yet to clear. I have another small field or two elsewhere that needs de-box elder-ing as well.

Snow Winter Freezing Atmospheric phenomenon Tree
Snow Winter Tree Freezing Ice


The TSG50 runs behind my 4720 which has more than enough ummph for a unit of this size. Cost is the only thing that kept me from going up to something slightly bigger. For the money, I'd give the TSG-50 pretty high marks. I'm about 150+ stumps into my effort with about that many yet to go to catch up to where I stopped cutting this winter. Most of the wood is ash of course, but mixed in are the occasional box elder or hawthorn. Here's some shots of my setup, first practicing at my neighbors (stump #2, I think in the shot) and after its second full day in the field.

Land vehicle Tractor Vehicle Agricultural machinery Automotive tire
Land vehicle Vehicle Tractor Agricultural machinery Automotive tire


My observation as I've gotten used to this particular unit is it is well suited for residential use. I may be pushing it, quite frankly, with the scope of my work. For an idea of the speed you can progress, I'm about 150 stumps in. This has taken total of a little more than 23 hours based on my hour meter spread over several days of work. I'm getting faster, so my time may be a bit long compared similar efforts in the future actually. Not bad though for such a small unit! :good2:

Now a bit of critique. I've already passed my concerns on to Woods and will relay them to my dealer as well. The wrist pins supporting the grinder frame and cylinders to the foot hoop have up to .080" of slop in each of them. This allows for the grinder to "float" with only its own weight to absorb the forces from grinding. Since it is not constrained firmly vertically or horizontally, the grinder can easily chuck or bump if the operator is not very careful about cutting depth and feed rates. Over the length of the arms on the unit, 0.080" of give at the pins gets multiplied and exacerbates the grinder’s tendency to do these things anyways. I'm not clear on if this is normal build tolerance or if my unit is an exception. I am awaiting feedback from Woods on this as I've said. If this is normal, I'd think tighter tolerances would make both a more functional unit as well as one less likely to suffer damage/wear.

Thoughts anyone?

On teeth wear... I normally grind just below grade an inch or two to cover up the stump and allow it to start to rot. My soil is mostly organics mixed with sand with some clay in areas. I've only seen rocks once near an old excavation site and I dug out around those stumps to avoid them. So my question here is: when are your teeth in need of sharpening/replacement? What signs should I be looking for?

I note that my grinder is chipping significantly less on one side and leaving shredded edges to the stumps (in fact it tends generate sufficient friction w/o removing material fast enough that the stump steams while grinding on that side). I interpret this to mean some of those teeth on that side and perhaps bottom are going dull. At ~20 hours in, this is a bit disconcerting. Are there any approaches used by members out there for sharpening carbide teeth on a diamond wheel/cordierite grinder? I need this unit in the field every day I have off to beat the weeds. Teeth dull, I'm good with that... I'd like any advice that others may have on managing the wear. My desire to keep this little monster running is a good measure of my appreciation for it.

There are my thoughts, mostly positive with the one note of concern. It’s an awesome little grinder and I’ve got a lot more work for it. :thumbup1gif:

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Further adventures

So, while desperate to run my grinder in the woods, my last experience with it last night was miserable. :thumbsdown: I had to do some work on it or I could just about guarantee some significant failure due to its poor performance.

While all of this may sound obvious to some, I just couldn't believe the teeth had dulled so quickly. I've only got 23-ish hours on the thing and have not exposed it to any rocks. Today, the grinder got a really good bath. Dirt (my dirt at least) forms a very hard cap on and around the teeth if I've been grinding much below grade, so looking at the tooth edges is not an option without some serious cleaning. And, like I've said... it's only had ~23 hour of work - it can't be dull.

In the interest of closing the loop on at least part of my thread. Here's a pic of the one of the hardest worked teeth.

Orange Grass Plant Chainsaw


Dull, dull, dull... I couldn't cut warm butter with that thing. Unfortunately, I didn't get a pic before I cleaned the grinder. You really would have had no idea how sharp the edges were before. Apparently, my property's dirt is composed of some darn fine abrasives! I've not read any account on this forum, or others, of a TSG50 wearing teeth quickly. Well, it can and does happen. Here’s a sharp tooth from a less exposed position.



So, the question that was coming to mind in my previous post was how to repair these buggers if they were dull. Today, I think I worked some of that out. My neighbor has a diamond file set (I know this because I helped him do some granite work). After getting out a set of diamond files at a medium "grit" I worked on wet sanding the worst of the teeth. Here's a shot of the materials I used and a finished "sanded" tooth.

Brickwork Brick Wall Bricklayer Gas


Games


The sanded tooth was one very similar to the dull tooth before I worked on it. I thought it was a fair bit of improvement. :thumbup1gif: I worked pretty much all of the teeth on the outside radius of the wheel. I rotated teeth from the inner radius cutters to the prime work tooth locations and put less sharp teeth where they weren't worked as hard.

Another interesting thing, in the course of sharpening the teeth I found one with fracture makes in the carbide that weren't visible before the filing. The pictures not the best, but you can see the faint shadow of the line in the photo on the face of the tooth. Yes... it's back on the grinder. Yes... it's marked so I can watch it.

Water Gas


I apparently need to get some spares (perhaps a whole set).

Now... the wrist pin slop is still a real thorn in my side. I'm convinced this is not a correct build. If it is in spec... well, I'll be disappointed in the design. I'll bush it myself if I don't hear back from Woods with a confirmation its not in spec.

I'm really curious to hear from the other folks out there who operate one of these if this is an issue for them as well. The give in the joints messes up the swing motion of the grinder when it its working (allows greater tilt, as opposed to moving in a plane) as much as it allows for increased chucking/bumping. The cylinder joints at the grinder end are very tight tolerance (no slop, period), why not at the foot/wrist pin joints?

So, one mystery solved and hopefully a work around developed - for another 20 hours. I'll need a new set of teeth to rotate in when others need significant work.

I'll upload some video perhaps tomorrow when I get a full day in the seat with it.

Matt
 

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Wow Matt, I know two guy's with these and never heard one complaint. One guy Foggy is a member here, I will PM him about your thread.
 

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Hmmm....maybe I can shed some light. Ive owned a TSG50 for a a year and a half....and I have ground out about 600 stumps with mine. It's mounted on a 3320. I have almost exclusively pine trees so I don't have much experience in hardwood stumps. My stumps have mostly been sheared off....so the stumps are only 4 to 6 inches above the ground in most cases....and I grind them to 8" below surface so I can till the land. I grind without regard to any dirt and I have mostly sandy loam soils.

I cannot understand where you have this slop in the joints....and I would be concerned if I had such an issue too! My joints and pivot points are all very close tolerance and I cannot help but think you have some defective or missing parts here.

Something doesnt sound right and I would figure this out before going forward. You are right about any "slop" creating issues with the machine jumping around. That is a BAD thing. I get all slop out of the 3 point linkage and get the grinder firmly planted on the ground before grinding. Even then....too big / fast of cut will get things jumping occasionally. I can see this could be magnified on hardwoods.

I will say that I did experience some problems with the joint "keeper bolts" working loose and falling out. This could have been catastrophic had I not found the problem in time. I replaced all the keeper bolts with hi-grade bolts and nylock nuts....so it should never happen again. But....all my joints are quite tight. NO SLOP such as you suggest.

The Sandvick wheel and teeth on the Woods grinder get very high marks. But...the wheel is made to cut in one direction mostly....as that is where most of the teeth are located. I have read other posts that say you will get high WHEEL wear if operated incorrectly.....and a wheel replacement is quite expensive. I have not seen any wheel wear and the paint is still on my wheel and in many cases the paint is still on the teeth.

I have the original teeth in my grinder.....and they have not been sharpened yet. I imagine they will do another 500 stumps before I need to sharpen or replace them (??).

I bought a dozen spares....but they are still in the package. I bought them at a distributor rather than over the Woods parts-counter.....as they are about 1/2 price that way. I think I paid about $10 each for them? IIRC.

Your teeth and wheel look "beat up" to me. Seems like some big gouges in the wheel. Could this be rocks or steel contact?
 

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Matt, I re-read your post a few times. How about a closeup picture of the suspect joint(s) in order to have a better look? Something is wrong here.

The joints on my TSG50 are about as tight as those you would find on your loader. They have grease zerks and get a pump or two each time I use mine. Have you lost those "keeper bolts" I mentioned above? (about 5/16" x 1.5" bolts)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pics on the way...

Foggy,
I read every thread here (yours included) involving the TSG50 before I bought one. I cut my stumps as low as possible without sacrificing the saw, normally after I've shaved the bark off if there's any left. This normally means 4 to 6 inches above ground. I had a shot at some pine earlier last week and they offered little resistance, even with dull teeth, not like the dry ash.

The fractured tooth and dull edges suggest to me that the occational chatter/bumping that occurs, despite my best efforts, is probably having a significant detrimental affect. When my machine decides to chatter, its not a just a harsh vibration. Its a jump of about a half inch out of the cut and back in repeating at a high frequency until I can back off the material (btw, the way I use a slow feedrate - restrictors in, one finger on the SCV). The 1/2" gouges of the teeth can be seen in the stump if I raise the grinder before sweeping back. That gouging is what I expect is causing some of the wear on the bottom of the wheel you see in the pictures as well.

Understanding I don't grind as deep as you did, I barely break the organics layer on the surface of the soil (about an inch or so below grade). I have no plans to till or raise livestock in the near future, so I'm content to let things rot just below the soil. Below the top layer is either sand or clay. No rocks... no metal. I think its just the impact that is wearing the parts so quickly.

I will get some pics today (and hopefully a movie). I'm waiting on the rest of the family right now so I can get out the door (the land I'm working is not where I live). Its a beautiful Saturday... can't think of a better thing to be doing than working outside with the family!

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate the confirmation on the poor joint fit from another owner. EVERYONE who has seen this machine has commented on it... I work with and hang out with a bunch of engineers, so maybe we're critical that way, but I don't think we're wrong on this one.

I'll post my pics later tonite.

Thanks again,
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pics - Video of TSG Joint Issue

I apologize for delaying the posting of the pics and video promised this past weekend. I have been contacting Woods and was waiting for their response hoping for a resolution I could report back on. I haven't heard from since I contacted them last (Monday morning), so I'm going to have to follow up, again... In the meantime, I'll post what I've already shared with them and told others here I would.

Below is diagram of the grinder and the measured gaps in the joints based on a set of machinist pin gauges I have access to (.060" to .125" in .001" increments).

Auto part Technical drawing Drawing Automotive window part Line art


Here's a side and ortho view of the top, horizontal cylinder joint, where the cylinder meets the base to get an idea of what 0.071" OD/ID size differential looks like.

Vehicle
Angle grinder Machine Pipe


The first video is of the problem joints with the stump grinder down on a log, with the cylinders de-pressurized.


Unfortunately, even with the grinder down the entire load can’t be taken off the joints, so it’s impossible to show much vertical motion in the joints - which there is in the lower and upper vertical clevis/sleeve joints.

The next video is the second stump ground after rotating all of the teeth so that the sharpest are in the primary work positions along the outer radius. It took ~14 minutes to grind the stump ~1 to 2" below grade (very slow to avoid chatter/bouncing). I've cut the video down to 2-ish minutes. My cuts are not very deep, the deepest about 1 inch at during the second "push" pass while there was the least amount of wheel in contact with the stump after my setup passes. My "pull" passes are far easier to manage - which is the opposite of most people’s experience. "Push" passes tend to rock the wheel into the material and induce more bounce than the "pull" passes on my machine.


Now, three of the joints on the grinder are what I believe all of the joints should be in terms of fit. The final movie I took is of the top joint where the vertical acting cylinder attaches to the frame. No give, period (forgive the sideways shot).


As a reference I've found useful (thanks to my youngest for finding it for me), here is a publicly available video of the same model Woods grinder. I realize the wood may be of very different toughness/condition but notice when the grinder bounces - the joints don't move at all... the whole frame takes the jolt. Not to mention there is no vibration in the joints for the period the grinder is working the stump otherwise.


To me, this is a very clear problem with my particular grinder. I am confident that Woods will stand by their hardware which I can prove by my recent order (last week) of a Brushbull from them. I'm not bad mouthing them - I AM illustrating the issue I have with my grinder for others on the forum and I have shared the same info with Woods via phone and an email (as directed by the warranty group by phone) with the attached videos/pics.

Now, fixing the issues are not difficult with a few shims and perhaps the trickiest is a rolling a tube shim for the OD/ID difference on the upper horizontal pin/clevis/cylinder – and I think a new set of teeth. I am pushing for a response from Woods on principle. ~$4000 should get a functional grinder and I believe they'll step up.

My last outing with the grinder was when I made these videos and I am concerned about using it further at this point. My grass is growing and I'm getting pretty anxious to get back in the seat working.

Matt
 

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Wow! After watching your videos and the one by woods I only have 1 question. What are your plans for the unit after you get your land cleared of the stumps? I can see where your concerns are with all the joints on your chipper, but after watching all the videos I'm not very impressed with this unit. Now mind you I use to have the entire Wayne County(Detroit area) tree contract and we had all pro equipment, and this is why I asked what your plans were after you clear your land, for 4000.00 that would have been a lot(like a month or more) of rental time for a machine that you could have ground most of those type of stumps in a day and not had this problem.
I Don't mean to sound like I am criticizing you in anyway for I to look for anything to make the job easier and if you have plans for it in the future then maybe it is the way to go.
This is the same thinking I used when I bought my 1026R, I was really thinking about buying the back hoe @ approx, 6000.00+ and that just seemed like a lot of rental time on a machine that was better suited to the job with out the outlay of cash.
I really hope you get the answers and satisfaction on your machine and enjoy the seat time ahead.:drinks:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
But... then I wouldn't have the toys

Heh heh... I want to own my toys! :mocking:
Seriously, I have many more stumps than anyone would want to pay have done, IMO. When I'm finished, I'll have ground well over a thousand stumps. I have 300 to go just from this winter. Two or so years more of this (at a slightly increased rate) and I will just get rid of my ash mess in the area above a river I want to build on and enjoy the view from... AND I have 50+ more acres to manage, mostly hardwood forest. I own what's known as a "target rich environment".

So your initial question is answered with, I don't think I'll ever be done. In the meantime, I have neighbors asking for favors (ash is everywhere) and offering me to loan me implements they have that I could use in return for my efforts, which saves me money buying/renting them and makes friends to boot! Seems like a good deal! :thumbup1gif:

The TSG is a light unit for smaller (15 to 50hp) tractors and if you're used to the pro grinders I'm not surprised you're not impressed. But the price differential between your models and the Woods are pretty substantial. Anyway, when the TSG50 doesn't have this issues I'm experiencing, it looks like a great unit for the residential user with a good bit of stump work to do. More money - bigger/better/faster... it's a tradeoff we all have to make buying anything.

I have heard a bit more from Woods (after I followed up). My videos are in engineering's hands now to determine what can be done. Thanks for the support! While I'm waiting for resolution I'm adding shims, I can't afford the downtime.

Matt
 

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Although I completely agree that the joints on your unit are out of spec. I doubt Woods will do much other than add spacers. I'd suggest to them to give you a credit on another Woods attachment and just get the spacers and add them. I have some on my 448 hoe that go on the bucket pins that would work real well by the looks of things.

I think these grinders are pretty cool but think 4k is about double what they should cost.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
update

Quick update to my saga...

The grinder is going back to the dealer... the dealer and Woods are going to work out if its repairable or not given the extent of the issues. The bummer is the time it'll be gone - up to 3 weeks or so. :thumbsdown:

I doubt Woods will do much other than add spacers. I'd suggest to them to give you a credit on another Woods attachment and just get the spacers and add them.
I typically have a hard time disagreeing with someone named Matt. :)

I think you are essentially correct, barring one detail. The pin diameters are way off compared to the ID of the sleeves and cylinders in some cases (it looks as if cylinder and clevis ID's may even be different). There are so many manufacturing defects in the joints - shims won't do the job by themselves. I want the dealer involved in this. They has far more resources at hand to tackle this than myself (and more pull with Woods).

Like I said, the duration of the repair really hurts and the fact the issue exists at all... let just say it "annoys" me "a bit" :mad:... but I'm glad to be working towards a functional grinder.

Matt
 

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Hey Matt!
Glade that woods and the dealer are working with you with this issue.:thumbup1gif: It just seems the right thing for woods to do would be to replace the whole unit for you since this is of no fault of yours and as you have said in other post you have work that needs to be done ASAP.:unknown:
Hope you are back up and running soon.:drinks:
 

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Well, that's really good that Woods is gonna stand behind it. I think my post didn't get my actual point accross. If I were you and shelled out 4k for the grinder I'd expect Woods to stand behind it 100%. But the been there, done that side of me is all to familiar with the reality that manufacture's rarely do.

The down time does stink, is it possible they could let you use a loaner during your downtime? I know for me my time is worth something regardless of weather it's for a business use or home.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Gone!

The TSG50 is gone... 'Dropped it off at the dealer Saturday. :cray:

If I were you and shelled out 4k for the grinder I'd expect Woods to stand behind it 100%. But the been there, done that side of me is all to familiar with the reality that manufacture's rarely do.

The down time does stink, is it possible they could let you use a loaner during your downtime? I know for me my time is worth something regardless of weather it's for a business use or home.
I agree with your 100% point and have had the same experience dealing with big companies the majority of the time when there's an issue.... I pushed pretty hard on my dealer about getting this right - they know my expectations. Unfortunately, a loaner was not an option made availble for me via Woods and my dealer doesn't have access to any. The issues I'm having, after getting a lot more perspective comparing to other machines (Woods included), is that mine is in really bad shape - right off the pallet.

My communications with Woods indicated they wanted to shim it up. They made that decision off of the videos. I know this isn't sufficient having worked on the hardware and observing where fit is an issue. A hands-on inspection is really needed to understand the scope of the issues. The dealer looked at it yesterday and had some pretty harsh words for that particular unit. His position was it should be replaced outright. He didn't see how it could be fixed without cutting the whole thing up and putting it back together “Franken-grinder” style.

So, we'll wait and see. Its three weeks for a new grinder to show up and Woods estimated three weeks for custom hardware to be fabricated. I just want a working machine post-haste. The dealer has a good reputation in our area and I've always had good experiences with them. I've just never had something from them fall flat like this before so it’s a bit of a test for them.

On a different note…. My brushbull came in and I've mowed what I've already cleared. :good2: No obvious issues with it – ‘built like a tank. That was my upside event to handing over the grinder, I got to pick up the mower at the same time.

Today, its windy and rainy... the first time in a long time its been this way on a weekend. So, I'm a bit out of routine not having hours of seat time grinding or stacking wood to do today. 'Mowing is done. What do people do on weekends?!!!! :dunno:

Matt
 
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I'm not suprized Woods is trying to cheap out on this unit. I'd want a new unit asap since it's there quality control issues not your's.
The dealer is mostlikey powerless in this situation. My dealer does a decent volume with Woods but even they disclosed that to have much weight with Woods you need several locations and lots of buying power. Im pretty partial to Woods stuff as most of my toys are Woods.

They've started to rebrand quite a bit of stuff they sell lately which is a disappoint in my eyes. I've got a Woods Harley rake which retails in the $7-8K range new. It's a rebadged Harley (Padalin equipment), I needed some parts and had a few questions about the bearings on mine. There manual indicates the bearings need grease but mine have no zerk. I assumed they were greaseless bearing but wanted to double check before distroying my new investment. The CS rep couldn't be bothered with my questions and told me to just call Harley.

Now I understand there position but I didn't buy it from Harley. Although the Harley tech was great to deal with. I hope they make this right for you.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah,
Ultimately, all of this comes down to what Woods wants to do to make this right and no amount of hollering on my part will make a difference when they've made that decision. My dealer indicated the grinder would be going back to Woods regardless if it
 

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Yeah,
Ultimately, all of this comes down to what Woods wants to do to make this right and no amount of hollering on my part will make a difference when they've made that decision. My dealer indicated the grinder would be going back to Woods regardless if it
I wouldn't be so sure you've got to accept what ever they decide. The internet is a powerful tool and I'm sure Woods would rather replace the unit and make it right rather than risk the negative press. How old is your unit? Your state may also have consumer protection laws that protect your rights in these disputes. Look at it this way, if Woods just rebrands the Shaver unit Woods will send it back to them to correct the issue. It's nothing for them to rebuild your defective unit and give you a new one not built on a Monday or Friday. I'd be fairly certain the Woods market caters to the CUT and smaller AG market. Collectively that's quite alot of influence. I know I've seen quite a few new post both here and TBN with folks looking to buy one of these units. I've directed one of them here to read this thread. If Woods want's to keep selling these they NEED to make it right for you.

Matt
 

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Quick update to my saga...

The grinder is going back to the dealer... the dealer and Woods are going to work out if its repairable or not given the extent of the issues. The bummer is the time it'll be gone - up to 3 weeks or so. :thumbsdown:



I typically have a hard time disagreeing with someone named Matt. :)

I think you are essentially correct, barring one detail. The pin diameters are way off compared to the ID of the sleeves and cylinders in some cases (it looks as if cylinder and clevis ID's may even be different). There are so many manufacturing defects in the joints - shims won't do the job by themselves. I want the dealer involved in this. They has far more resources at hand to tackle this than myself (and more pull with Woods).

Like I said, the duration of the repair really hurts and the fact the issue exists at all... let just say it "annoys" me "a bit" :mad:... but I'm glad to be working towards a functional grinder.

Matt
Wow! Allot has happened since I last saw your thread. I've been gone. Good video explaining what the issues are. Not typical of the joints on my machine. Arrrgh....that would make for problems....no doubt. I gotta beleive that some joints are dramtically out of spec...or Shaver mixed some of their parts with the Woods parts.....or something of that nature. Some kinda rocket surgery is needed to get you back in business.

Glad to see Woods and your dealer are working with you.....and it appears that you are taking the high road in your dealings with them. Congrats. Every company has some issues from time to time....and the irate customer act does not endear anyone to your problems. Instead be firm and consistant in your request for a replacement or a fix that meets your expectations. I gotta beleive they will stand behind this issue.

I feel as you do that Woods will do the right thing....unfortuneately it just may take some time for everyone involved to get on the same page.

Keep us posted on your outcome.....and good luck!! I'm going to check my joints when I look at my machine tommorow. I was just about to hook it up for a few hours of grinding.
 

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Last season I was having more difficulty with operating my grinder due to some of the chatter....similar to that in your video. At that time I attributed it to my "tyro mode" of operating things and to fatigue. But I do remember things being looser than in earlier times....and I was stalling the engine more frequently. Just never gave it more thought and didnt look for solutions.

Yesterday I put my grinder on my tractor for the first time this year. I checked the joinits and......yikes!!....a few of my joints were similar to yours. I ground a few stumps and studied the situation. I ground about 40 stumps yesterday.

Today before grinding.....I removed my Pat's EZ change from my lower links as I noted there was too much slop in these connections with the stump grinder. I also tightened up my stabilzers to remove ALL slack. These things helped ALLOT.

I ground 150 stumps today.....mostly old pine....and the "close end" of the sweep cylinder bothers me allot. There seems to be waay to much "slop" in that union. I have another joint or two that also could use some improvement.

I'm a little embarassed to say that I did'nt notice these sloppy joints previously. I think they kinda snuck up on me. I'm curious on how Woods treats your situation and what they do to resolve those issues. I could certainly use some shimming or bushings to resolve my similar issues.

I'm still grinding and watching how things work......kinda wince when that cylinder joint moves around. :confused: I wish I could watch a new one operate to study the joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thats why we join forums...

No new news... I just noticed my post a few replies up was cropped. Nice. I sound even less competent. :lol: 'Good thing no one gets to read my posts before spell checker does!

I really appreciate all the support folks have shown me on this. It reinforces why forums are powerful tools for folks to learn and share experiences. I welcome exposure of others to the thread if they are interested in buying a grinder. Eventually, there will be a conclusion reported here and that could work to strengthen Woods image or not... Either way, it's a great opportunity to see how things work out and learn from others experiences when there are problems.

Thanks for all the support! :good2:
I'll definitely update this thread as soon as I hear anything.

Matt
 
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