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Can someone please tell me what the real turning radius difference is between the 1025R and the X758? Even an inside to inside or outside to outside dia. wouldwork.

Trying to decide betwen the 1025R and the X758 and was just wondering how tight the 1025R will really turn in both 2 wheel drive and 4 whell drive.

Any infowill be greatly appreciated.
 

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Can someone please tell me what the real turning radius difference is between the 1025R and the X758? Even an inside to inside or outside to outside dia. wouldwork.

Trying to decide betwen the 1025R and the X758 and was just wondering how tight the 1025R will really turn in both 2 wheel drive and 4 whell drive.

Any infowill be greatly appreciated.

I can't answer for the X758, but I do have the 1025R and I am amazed at how tight it turns. In fact, it turns tighter than my previous JD L120 lawn tractor. I have a Pin Oak tree in my front yard that I would estimate that it is about 36 inches in diameter and it will hug that tree when mowing around it with my 54 inch MMM

Dave
 

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Thanks Dave that helps alot. I was looking at John Deere info and it showed 7.x ft. radius, which would mean 14 ft. plus dia. circle. I just couln't believe it was that big and people were happy with it.

It nice to know that they have a tight turn,,,now just to figure out if I would like the X 758 or the 1025R.

That being siad, have you heard any more about JD coming out with a loader for the X 758? just wondering?
 

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Tractor data has the 1025r turning radius at 2.25 feet and the x758 at 2.08 feet.

I would think, between the two, it would come down to the planned uses. If it were just cutting grass to with the x, if tractor work is required go with the r. Comparably equipped, there isn't much if any difference in price.
 

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PTO and 3 point are standard on the R. I was looking at the x748 and the 1026R a couple years ago. Once I compared the price with the same options it made the R the obvious choice for me. Like said above thou, if you don't want anything but to cut grass the X is probably better at it.

-636
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok Thanks guys for the replys. I'm leaning towards the 1025R if going new, but also located a real nice 2520 with deck and front loader.

Decisions, decisions....
 

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Food for Thought

Ok Thanks guys for the replys. I'm leaning towards the 1025R if going new, but also located a real nice 2520 with deck and front loader.

Decisions, decisions....
A couple point to ponder RAShel.

Regarding turning radius. I'm am amazed at the tightness of the radius on my 1025R. It turns tighter than my Wheel Horse 520xi and that is a tight turning tractor as well. However, the SCUTs will be generally longer than the garden tractors. So you will have to factor that into "turning strategy", i.e. making inside turns such as where a house meets a fence, or following a tight curvature in your landscaping.

I was "this close" to buying my neighbors 2520...great tractor with lots of capability. But if you plan on a backhoe with the 2520, be aware that there is an extensive sub frame for that BH that needs to be installed/de-installed every time you want to put on the mower deck...a major manual effort. Also when BH is off and stored, it will require another 5 or 6 feet of floor space in the garage for the sub frame.

The Human Engineering that has gone into the 1025R is simply amazing. As I heard another member on GTT state, the 1025R is the "Transformer" of tractors :good2:. The 1025R is the "King of Ease" for implement changeover.

Good luck in what ever you choose. You will not be sorry with any of the options you talked about!!! Have fun...I mean get lots of work done:wink:

Regards,
Mike...The Griz
 

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While I am happy with my 1026R. At times I think I would have been better off with a 2720 or even a 3720 and a lawn mower. The 1026 can do it all, but, it is a bit larger than I need for mowing the lawn and at times a bit small for snow removal.
 

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I come from a few different situations here and I am hesitant to post..... But...

First, I find that the turning radius of my X749 great, but I struggle with it around trees. When driving it in the open and turning or going around a basketball hoop, I think its great. But I am used to a Z920 that does not have a hood and you are able to get the deck under spruce trees or in areas the X749 could never think of.

We have a 4110 at the farm to mow the lawn and its great in the open. Its large turf tires smooth out the rough lawn as our 8300 drives all over the lawn, but its not great around trees or corners as it is long and high. I think I would rather mow with a 3720 and a 72 inch deck to because the deck would stick out more and allow the long nose to become a benefit.

I do not and have never had a a 1026 or a 2305. To me, they are right in the middle of the tractors I would go for. A x700 is great for the lawn, but not great for a loader or three point stuff. The 2x20 is a bit larger and better with the three point stuff, but still a bit under powered for larger tasks.

I guess where I am going with this is that there is nothing that does everything great. They all have limitations. There are many that can do a lot of things good, but really stand out in nothing. I think that's where the 1026 and 1025 land. They are good at almost everything the average guy needs, but they do not do anything great. That sounds bad, but its not. Nothing is perfect, and items that do things great are normally purpose built.

You don't see zero turn lawn mowers with snow blades on them.

I hope that does not come across wrong. I just think the comparison here is a hard one. These are two machines designed for two different segments and are priced about the same.
 

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I come from a few different situations here and I am hesitant to post..... But...

First, I find that the turning radius of my X749 great, but I struggle with it around trees. When driving it in the open and turning or going around a basketball hoop, I think its great. But I am used to a Z920 that does not have a hood and you are able to get the deck under spruce trees or in areas the X749 could never think of.

We have a 4110 at the farm to mow the lawn and its great in the open. Its large turf tires smooth out the rough lawn as our 8300 drives all over the lawn, but its not great around trees or corners as it is long and high. I think I would rather mow with a 3720 and a 72 inch deck to because the deck would stick out more and allow the long nose to become a benefit.

I do not and have never had a a 1026 or a 2305. To me, they are right in the middle of the tractors I would go for. A x700 is great for the lawn, but not great for a loader or three point stuff. The 2x20 is a bit larger and better with the three point stuff, but still a bit under powered for larger tasks.

I guess where I am going with this is that there is nothing that does everything great. They all have limitations. There are many that can do a lot of things good, but really stand out in nothing. I think that's where the 1026 and 1025 land. They are good at almost everything the average guy needs, but they do not do anything great. That sounds bad, but its not. Nothing is perfect, and items that do things great are normally purpose built.

You don't see zero turn lawn mowers with snow blades on them.

I hope that does not come across wrong. I just think the comparison here is a hard one. These are two machines designed for two different segments and are priced about the same.
Soooooooo, are you saying I shouldn't put a loader on my 997? That's a real buzz killer.
 

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When choosing a between X7xx and 1026R I had same thoughts on turning radius. When it comes down to it primary purpose and attachments are the factors. The only time turning matters is a tight corner you come to every time and if you want to pin strip your lawn, doubling back still requires a 3pt turn regardless of radius (zero turn excluded). You will regret the X7xx in the availability of attachments. Plus the 1025R has a suspension seat which gives a ride like no other.
 

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X Series Verses 1000 Series

We just received a X738 at work and immediately discovered a disadvantage to the X series and the three point hitch. We purchased the X with a Cab, Snow Blower and Back Blade for Snow Removal and discovered the three point hitch works with the Chute Rotation control for the Snow Blower. There is no way from the factory to lock the three point hitch up when blowing snow so we will now have to rig up something to control the Back Blade when we are using the Blower. My 1026R has fully independent control of the Three Point Hitch and the Snow Blower Controls. If you want to have a Three Point Implement you are better off with the 1000 Series Tractors. If no Three Point Implements then it is a toss up.
 

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We just received a X738 at work and immediately discovered a disadvantage to the X series and the three point hitch. We purchased the X with a Cab, Snow Blower and Back Blade for Snow Removal and discovered the three point hitch works with the Chute Rotation control for the Snow Blower. There is no way from the factory to lock the three point hitch up when blowing snow so we will now have to rig up something to control the Back Blade when we are using the Blower. My 1026R has fully independent control of the Three Point Hitch and the Snow Blower Controls. If you want to have a Three Point Implement you are better off with the 1000 Series Tractors. If no Three Point Implements then it is a toss up.
You can lock the 3 point up on the x series, just set the depth stop all the way up.
 

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Ins't there also a valve kit that can go on the SCV? I do not have a three point, but I do have the valve.
The 3 point actually uses the same cylinder as the deck lift, which hydraulically is the same function as the front blade angle (or chute rotation). I think the valve kit you are speaking of is a diverter. It diverts the flow from the deck/3 point lift cylinder to the side quick couplers.
On thing is for sure...the 3 point is not as nice as a 1026.
 

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Actually the valve you buy and put on the back of the spool valve allows you to cut off flow to the rockshaft at the rear of the tractor. This rock shaft controls both the mower and the three point hitch. If you want to use a blower or blade, close the shut off valve (thereby disabling mower/3ph movement), and front implement will respond quickly while the mower/3ph stay up. You can operate both the front implement and the mower/3ph with the valve open but the front implement will be slower because you will be driving multiple cylinders. If you want the 3PH to move and a front implement, leave the valve open and set the mower deck to max height or latch the deck up using the hooks on the lift arms. Same if you want to use the mower and a front implement, just fix or set the 3PH, use the 3PH depth stop.

The shut off valve is a near must with front mount implements for best performance and it usually comes with the front mount hitch. It is not a diverter. The front L/R implement control is plumbed in parallel with the rock shaft (one on front of spool and the other on the back). You can buy from JD for about $100 or better, quarter turn ones are sold on-line for about $60 or so. Or if you really want to get fancy, you can add an electric actuated valve setup. Tons of information on this valve and how to use it.
 

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Actually the valve you buy and put on the back of the spool valve allows you to cut off flow to the rockshaft at the rear of the tractor. This rock shaft controls both the mower and the three point hitch. If you want to use a blower or blade, close the shut off valve (thereby disabling mower/3ph movement), and front implement will respond quickly while the mower/3ph stay up. You can operate both the front implement and the mower/3ph with the valve open but the front implement will be slower because you will be driving multiple cylinders. If you want the 3PH to move and a front implement, leave the valve open and set the mower deck to max height or latch the deck up using the hooks on the lift arms. Same if you want to use the mower and a front implement, just fix or set the 3PH, use the 3PH depth stop.

The shut off valve is a near must with front mount implements for best performance and it usually comes with the front mount hitch. It is not a diverter. The front L/R implement control is plumbed in parallel with the rock shaft (one on front of spool and the other on the back). You can buy from JD for about $100 or better, quarter turn ones are sold on-line for about $60 or so. Or if you really want to get fancy, you can add an electric actuated valve setup. Tons of information on this valve and how to use it.
Your right, it is more of an isolation valve than a diverter, but you really can't use a front blade effectively without closing the valve. If you leave the valve open, when you push against the angled blade, it forces oil from the front angle cylinder back into the rockshaft/deck lift cylinder. So the front angle blade simply won't hold it's position unless the valve is closed. I know that because I forget to close mine sometimes, and it doesn't take long to notice.
 

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Your right, it is more of an isolation valve than a diverter, but you really can't use a front blade effectively without closing the valve. If you leave the valve open, when you push against the angled blade, it forces oil from the front angle cylinder back into the rockshaft/deck lift cylinder. So the front angle blade simply won't hold it's position unless the valve is closed. I know that because I forget to close mine sometimes, and it doesn't take long to notice.
I've always closed mine when the snow blade is on. Never even tried it with it open. Just read that it is slower if left open. In any case, if you understand how it works, one can use the 3PH, mower, and front implements with great effect. Not as nice as an independent 3pH, but still quite serviceable.

I'm considering adding a 3rd function to the auxiliary or L/R port so I can run a dump trailer in concert with the snowblade. Just trying to justify $400 for the kit. Such a kit could also be used to switch back and forth between 3PH and L/R function.
 

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I've always closed mine when the snow blade is on. Never even tried it with it open. Just read that it is slower if left open. In any case, if you understand how it works, one can use the 3PH, mower, and front implements with great effect. Not as nice as an independent 3pH, but still quite serviceable.

I'm considering adding a 3rd function to the auxiliary or L/R port so I can run a dump trailer in concert with the snowblade. Just trying to justify $400 for the kit. Such a kit could also be used to switch back and forth between 3PH and L/R function.
Where is this valve on the 1023e or is this something you buy and install aftermarket? Thanks

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