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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Modified my Curtis snowplow with 60 inch moldboard to have a (Edit: 1" thick) UHMW PE cutting edge. I decided I wanted to use the plow set down on the concrete versus shoes. I still plan on using shoes set for high clearance on gravel portion of drive.

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The 60 inch plow covered my tracks well on the 2305 when fully angled. The plow covers one side of my Gen 2 2032R when fully angled but leaves the other side's tracks exposed by an inch or two. I left the new edge at 72 inches.

Options Considered:

  1. I approached a local dealer and found a 72 inch moldboard replacement was $1100 a few years ago. Too pricey at the time.
  2. I found a used Curtis moldbard the right width and price a few states away. Just swap moldboards and re-sell. Too much travel cost.
  3. I could cut the plow edge down to 64 inches, minimum needed. I wanted to use it at 72 inches for a while.
  4. I could purchase wings or extensions and tie the moldboard to the longer cutting edge.
  5. I could use it as is for a while and see how it performs scraping mild snows and perhaps a deeper snow if I get lucky.

Thoughts?
 

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I did the same but added wings to make cutting edge match plow
Think you have too much chance to catch and bending blade not supported
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Just ordered some UHMW from GWT's first of the week for my Frontier AF10F for the same reason. ( concrete drive ) How well does it work? Does it plow as well? Smoother?.. ect...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
How well does it work? Does it plow as well? Smoother?..
Bill56, We have only snow that stuck to the lawn since installation. I found that I had to have the hardened steel edge set high to avoid damage to concrete. Left too much snow that compacted into ice. Also, too many of the low snowfall totals are tempting to leave and let melt.

I too considered sourcing from GWT and directly from May Wes. A few other online sources such as interstateplastics considered. I went with McMaster-Carr. Didn't like the $80 palletized shipment cost that they no longer tell you about before purchase. But I do think it is wise to have some UHMW PE laying around. A 1"×6"x96" piece ended up costing $150 with taxes and shipping. I later read a thread somewhere on GTT about local prices near $100, go for that deal if you can find it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Anyone use this for gavel how well does it work
Pigpen, I was shaped by my childhood. 1/3 mile gravel drive. My job was to rake gravel from the yard back to the drive... a paint the Golden Gate Bridge type of chore... winter is always around the corner. Needless to state, I keep the drive level and compact the snow when 2 inches deep. Shoes are set to keep cutting edge well above gravel. I would NEVER create a wave of mixed gravel and snow flying off the moldboard.

It is supposed to be closer to the abrasion resistance of steel (vs rubber) and more gentle on asphalt / concrete (vs steel). I think crushed stone could cause some abrasion, but I don't foresee any problems.
 

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I actually bought those on eBay and had a welder tack them on
They were made for a JD in plow can get 6” or 12” I think
 
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Bill56, We have only snow that stuck to the lawn since installation. I found that I had to have the hardened steel edge set high to avoid damage to concrete. Left too much snow that compacted into ice. Also, too many of the low snowfall totals are tempting to leave and let melt.

I too considered sourcing from GWT and directly from May Wes. A few other online sources such as interstateplastics considered. I went with McMaster-Carr. Didn't like the $80 palletized shipment cost that they no longer tell you about before purchase. But I do think it is wise to have some UHMW PE laying around. A 1"×6"x96" piece ended up costing $150. I later read a thread somewhere on GTT about local prices near $100, go for that deal if you can find it!
GWT price was $1.95 a linear foot for 1"x 4"x 60" which added up to $117.00 before tax/shipping. I looked and didn't see a much better price so I actually went with a wider piece for a little more $. In our area its not hard to find rubber but everything I read said UHMW was definitely better than rubber as far as cutting/longevity?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
In our area its not hard to find rubber but everything I read said UHMW was definitely better than rubber as far as cutting/longevity?
I believe the pros have gone to it for quietness of plowing residential customers at night, scraping ability maintained, and much longer longevity than rubber.

From USplastics:
"UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) has extremely long chains, with molecular weight numbering in the millions (usually between 2 to 6 million). In general, HDPE molecules have between 700 and 1,800 monomer units per molecule, whereas UHMW molecules tend to have 100,000 to 250,000 monomers each. The chains of UHMW align in the same direction. The bonds between the chains are not very strong however, because they are so long there are more bonds holding it together then polyethylene with shorter chains. These long chains give UHMW high tensile strength. The longer chains serve to transfer load more effectively to the polymer backbone by strengthening intermolecular interactions. This causes the material to be very tough and gives it the highest impact strength of the polyethylenes. It has a density of 0.928-0.941 g/cm3."

I plan on using the 6"x24"x1" cutoff to make two angled skid shoes for the box blade. I wouldn't mind the ability to capture snow near barn and garage doors and drag away. I will set the blades a fair bit above concrete. Remove skid shoes in spring. I would really like to buy an HLA snow pusher from GWT. I was particularly impressed with PJR832's recent use of pusher in 28 inches of snow.

I believe the snow pusher would be less than ideal for 300' of linear drive. Hopefully the FEL plow and box blade mod will suffice for now.
 

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Makes sense to purchase then..Thanks for the info!
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
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I do not claim to be an expert in working with UHMW PE, but will document my experience. I did some reading and checked with a friend who is a machinist, car builder, and woodworker. His experience was to use a high TPI saw blade, take thin depth cuts, and move quickly to avoid melt issues / fraying with UHMW PE. I was relieved he recommended the circular saw approach since I didn't want to handle the heavy 1"x24"x96" sheet with either my cabinet or contractor's table saw. I edge and face jointed a piece of stock to use as a straight edge and selected a 140 tooth saw blade. My guess is that any blade with at least 80 teeth would have worked well.


I found setting the blade depth to use 4 passes to cut through 1 inch stock worked best to balance speed, material removal, saw hp, and avoid fraying/melting. I did use a roller bearing for support under the uncut portion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I used a sliding compound miter saw with depth stop adjusted incrementally to make cross cut. Could have used similar clamp and circular saw method too.

I used the hardened steel edge with plasma cut square holes as a template. Then found the centers and punched center mark to make work at the drill press easier. I picked a Forstner bit and it cut really well. My other choice of bit would have been a brad point. Some of what I read warned to avoid stepping up in bit sizes since the finish bit would cut too quickly. I had a long piece that was easy to hold in place with aid of support bearing. Material is slick; I would have clamped short pieces. No problem with one steady continuous plunge, all material removed well.
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Hello, this is my plow. I am looking at going with a piece of the UHMW. Looking like I'll use the same holes already in the bottom of the plow. I'd MUCH rather not drill new holes into the plow. But the existing holes are pretty high up... so not sure yet.

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Hello, this is my plow. I am looking at going with a piece of the UHMW. Looking like I'll use the same holes already in the bottom of the plow. I'd MUCH rather not drill new holes into the plow. But the existing holes are pretty high up... so not sure yet.
You can see how I did it here:

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
this is my plow. I am looking at going with a piece of the UHMW. Looking like I'll use the same holes already in the bottom of the plow.
Is the back of the blade beveled top and bottom?
Is the blade reversible and has already been flipped since off-center?

I have never owned a front dirt blade like yours. Seems like you would want to get the cutting edge off and understand fit tolerances and how a thicker nonbeveled cutting edge might have holes bored to fit.

Edit: just saw Kenny's link above. 2032RJD, go with the expert's advice who has your front blade!
 

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You can see how I did it here:

Wow, I will read that in depth tomorrow. Wow!
 

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You can see how I did it here:

Thanks for the reply. I will read it. So on my plow, the JD 66" black blade. Do you use the existing bolt holes in the bottom edge to attach the UHMW? Or drill new holes?
 

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Is the back of the blade beveled top and bottom?
Is the blade reversible and has already been flipped since off-center?

I have never owned a front dirt blade like yours. Seems like you would want to get the cutting edge off and understand fit tolerances and how a thicker nonbeveled cutting edge might have holes bored to fit.

Edit: just saw Kenny's link above. 2032RJD, go with the expert's advice who has your front blade!
The picture is taken from the side with a bad angle. I've attached a more straight on photo. No, it' not been flipped. It's an actual JD AG plow you order when building a 2-4 series.
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Thanks for the reply. I will read it. So on my plow, the JD 66" black blade. Do you use the existing bolt holes in the bottom edge to attach the UHMW? Or drill new holes?
Used existing holes in the plow, but did have to buy longer plow bolts.

Here is a picture of the one I put on my old 4110 tractor and #380 plow that I adapted to it.

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See is this link works, its my old Picasa albums that's now converted to Google whatever they call it: Album Archive - Plow Pics
 
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