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Discussion Starter #1
A couple of weeks ago I broke the chain on my blower on a Sunday afternoon, fortunately I always keep a spare on the peg board and changed out and finished blowing. Today I stopped in at the dealers to get a replacement chain and my salesman Mike ask if I had heard about the new enclosed drive box. I told him I had but so far no one on the net had confirmed it would fit the older blowers. He said it not only fit but they have converted 15 used blowers they have had for sale. I immediately purchased the enclosed drive and the four (4) bolts to mount it. Mike said they had taken one apart to see what was inside and it consists of two sprockets and a chain running in 80w-90 gear oil. He said it will reduce the vibrations from the blower. $221.13 out the door.
19M7865 Bolt four required $3.44 Total
AUC16953 Gear Box $199.00
TY6296 Gear Oil $6.17

I will not do the install until I do my spring change over unless my new chain breaks between now and then. Just wanted to put the information out there that the new box will fit as confirmed by my John Deere Dealer.
 

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Interesting. Waiting to see how the conversion goes, but that doesn't mean we are hoping you break another chain. Can you post photo's of the new gear box as it came just for our information?

Thanks....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will try and get the pics tomorrow. It is setting in the factory box in my garage as that was as far as I could carry it. Some time when the weather is better I will get my two wheel cart and drag it out to the heated barn where I will do the install this spring. I have Muscular Dystrophy so my arm and leg strength are not what they were 50 years ago so I do things in slow stages and try and stay off the Ice between the house and barn. Tractor lives in the attached garage for the winter so it is not a problem using it and if I have to I can drive it to the barn to repair if needed. Last year I broke the chain when the temp was in the single digits and I could not get into the heated barn to change the chain as I had not had a chance to blow the drive to the barn door and even with chains, wheel weights and cab and in 4WD I could not get in the barn. Wife and I changed that chain freezing our fannies off. We had to go in the house several times to warm up and took us well over two hours to change that chain. Some years I could get two to three years out of a chain so I was supprised when the chain snapped this year. I am so looking forward to this change and never having to worry about a snapped chain again. Just check the oil and be done with it.
 

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I will try and get the pics tomorrow. It is setting in the factory box in my garage as that was as far as I could carry it. Some time when the weather is better I will get my two wheel cart and drag it out to the heated barn where I will do the install this spring. I have Muscular Dystrophy so my arm and leg strength are not what they were 50 years ago so I do things in slow stages and try and stay off the Ice between the house and barn. Tractor lives in the attached garage for the winter so it is not a problem using it and if I have to I can drive it to the barn to repair if needed. Last year I broke the chain when the temp was in the single digits and I could not get into the heated barn to change the chain as I had not had a chance to blow the drive to the barn door and even with chains, wheel weights and cab and in 4WD I could not get in the barn. Wife and I changed that chain freezing our fannies off. We had to go in the house several times to warm up and took us well over two hours to change that chain. Some years I could get two to three years out of a chain so I was supprised when the chain snapped this year. I am so looking forward to this change and never having to worry about a snapped chain again. Just check the oil and be done with it.
No hurry on the photos, and certainly wait until its easier and safer for you with the weather conditions. When its convenient for you and you get a chance is fine, but don't take any risks or unnecessary chances just to get the photos......

From what I can tell, because I keep any eye on your areas weather as I go out to B.I. (Saint James) during the year, this winter has been really light on the snow, compared to normal. Probably like us, there has been more ice to deal with than snow for much of the winter. In fact, I keep an eye on the Hardware Stores Video Camera just to see whats going on our there on main street. Looks like there is snow on the ground now, more there than we have here, that's for certain.

It certainly will be nice for you to be rid of the chain and gears set up. I have also always kept a spare chain and master links in my spare parts kit for my 47" blower as well, because of past problems with the chain. I don't use my blower very often any more and in fact, I haven't even set up my 1025r for the front PTO set up with the quick hitch, as I have been using the blade.

This year, the plowing has been limited to just 9 times all season, from the first week of November. We are getting snow now and there is anywhere from 3" to 8" forecast for now until Friday AM, so I guess we will see. No question, this winter has been the least I have plowed snow that I can recall for many, many years.......likely more than 20 years.

Thanks for posting about your new blower gear box and the part numbers and prices, etc. That information is helpful to many.

S.B.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No problem, I have a Dentist appointment tomorrow and have to walk by the gearbox to get in the Jeep. As I retired May 10th and everyone in the family now have AWD/4WD I don't keep the drive/yard as clean as I use to, so far I have only filled the 1026R twice since putting the blower on last fall. Unless we have 3-4" or more, we just drive on it. When I do a proper job, it takes 1 1/2 to 2 hours, quick and dirty, I can do it in about 45 minutes to an hour.
I do have some work to do on the 445 before mowing season starts, I want to replace the plastic gears on the Oil Pump and Governor now that it has rolled over 1000 hours. I replaced the plastic cam gear a couple of years after I bought it in 94 at the urging of my dealer and I am debating on just pulling it completely apart and re-ringing it. I will probably start that in mid march when the weather is a little better. Should not take more than a week or so if I go whole hog on it. I normally use the 445 in the winter with the 54" front blade and the 1026R with the blower. This year I didn't even put the chains and blade on the 445 so I guess retirement is changing my perspective on snow removal. I didn't know about the camera on BI, I wish they had one for Down Town Charlevoix, though I am only 5 miles or so out of town so looking out my front window is probably close enough.
 

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It certainly will be nice for you to be rid of the chain and gears set up. I have also always kept a spare chain and master links in my spare parts kit for my 47" blower as well, because of past problems with the chain. I don't use my blower very often any more and in fact, I haven't even set up my 1025r for the front PTO set up with the quick hitch, as I have been using the blade.
I am very optimistic about the new enclosed chain case but as far as what is driving the snow blower even with the new case it is still being driven by a chain and sprockets. It's just that the chain and sprockets are now inside a case and in an oil bath. Technically that should be no different to the existing sprockets with a well lubricated chain. I still have some questions about how they maintain chain tension given that a new chain will stretch.

The one disadvantage of the chain case is if you break a chain it will be more difficult to replace - assuming you even know the size and number of links.

There is also the question of the two existing chain case part numbers floating around. Initially JD used a $258 chain case and then on later serial numbers they switched to a $138 chain case. Both part numbers are still valid with the older number still being the proper number for the older serial numbers.

I would like to make the change to my blower at some point so am very much looking forward to feedback from the early adapters.

727161
 

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A couple of weeks ago I broke the chain on my blower on a Sunday afternoon, fortunately I always keep a spare on the peg board and changed out and finished blowing. Today I stopped in at the dealers to get a replacement chain and my salesman Mike ask if I had heard about the new enclosed drive box. I told him I had but so far no one on the net had confirmed it would fit the older blowers. He said it not only fit but they have converted 15 used blowers they have had for sale. I immediately purchased the enclosed drive and the four (4) bolts to mount it. Mike said they had taken one apart to see what was inside and it consists of two sprockets and a chain running in 80w-90 gear oil. He said it will reduce the vibrations from the blower. $221.13 out the door.
19M7865 Bolt four required $3.44 Total
AUC16953 Gear Box $199.00
TY6296 Gear Oil $6.17

I will not do the install until I do my spring change over unless my new chain breaks between now and then. Just wanted to put the information out there that the new box will fit as confirmed by my John Deere Dealer.
Slap that Badboy in! What’s it gonna take start to finish? 2 hours tops. Plenty of snow left to know if it really dampens vibration. If that’s not enough. Assuming the one you’re taking off is in decent shape. eBay!!! Other Deere owners have junk sprockets lookin to catch a break from the dealerships.
 

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Slap it in!!! Just did mine 2 weeks ago seeing as the “old reliable” design crapped the bed in me twice in 15 hrs of use.

New enclosed case fits like a dream! Quiet as hell, too!

Don’t forget!!! 4 bolts to secure it. And most importantly, the spacer bushing needed that fits between the case and the impeller. Good god don’t forget to get that!!

727199
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Slap that Badboy in! What’s it gonna take start to finish? 2 hours tops. Plenty of snow left to know if it really dampens vibration. If that’s not enough. Assuming the one you’re taking off is in decent shape. eBay!!! Other Deere owners have junk sprockets lookin to catch a break from the dealerships.
No, it will wait, I am physically disabled and things have to proceed on a slow time table. I don't sell on E-Bay or any other platform, I hate dealing with people as they try and get things for next to nothing and complain about it. Besides the parts are junk and everyone here knows that. The large sprocket came from my original 1995 vintage blower when the new blower sprocket stripped all the teeth right after the warranty expired. If someone wanted the parts and was willing to pick them up and I didn't have to deal with shipping, they could have them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Slap it in!!! Just did mine 2 weeks ago seeing as the “old reliable” design crapped the bed in me twice in 15 hrs of use.

New enclosed case fits like a dream! Quiet as hell, too!

Don’t forget!!! 4 bolts to secure it. And most importantly, the spacer bushing needed that fits between the case and the impeller. Good god don’t forget to get that!!

View attachment 727199
Dealer didn't mention anything about spacer bushings, do you have the part numbers? Do the bushings replace the bearing on the input shaft behind the large sprocket? Is it required with the steel impeller? My blower is an older unit and did not have the plastic junk impeller.
 

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Too bad we lost the thanks button . I may be upgrading my blower too. Unless, I have a breakdown,I will wait until the snow removal season passes to do it.
 

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I have the plastic impeller 😒. It works, and coincidentally was VERY easy to supercharge (added rubber strips to the impeller blades to ensure contact with the housing). Side note: if you haven’t done this to your impeller blades, I HIGHLY recommend!!! I’ve had zero hang ups, stuck snow, ice build ups, etc etc. It throws the snow a good 40-50ft away and even the wet heavy stuff gets a solid 25-35 ft chucking.

Back on topic.

Yes. The bushing does replace the bearing and flange that sits between the impeller and gear box. See pic for PN. I took some video of the install.
The PN is T24124
727204
 

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The bushing itself sits over the impeller shaft and holds the spacing and alignment at the rear blower wall. The enclosed gear box does the rest. Since the gear box sits in tight to the housing on the rear of the unit, it has no where to go, wiggle, or move. Once she’s in, she’s in.
My install took about 1.5 hrs, but I had a LOT of trial and error!! No instructions for assembly.
I can say this:

A) you will have to loosen the impeller unit and pull it forward as far as it will go. There are only 2 Allen screws holding it to the shaft. Mine only moves forward about 1/4”-1/2”.
You WILL have to remove the rear bearing assy and flange pieces to install the new spacer bushing and new gear box. (See trial and error mentioned above). Lol
I had to use a sledge and some wood to gently encourage the new gear box into the rear housing area. The spacing is tight (or it was in mine) and I lost a fleck of paint in the process.

Once new gear box is in, bolt that sucker down! Back to the front of the blower you can now push your impeller assy back tight and snug the Allen screws down. Attach the shirt PTO back to the gear shaft on the back side and you’re off and running.

The new gear box did NOT come with the “keys” for the shaft. I reused the old ones off the oldgear box assembly. Just tap them out of their grooves with a hammer and screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have the plastic impeller 😒. It works, and coincidentally was VERY easy to supercharge (added rubber strips to the impeller blades to ensure contact with the housing). Side note: if you haven’t done this to your impeller blades, I HIGHLY recommend!!! I’ve had zero hang ups, stuck snow, ice build ups, etc etc. It throws the snow a good 40-50ft away and even the wet heavy stuff gets a solid 25-35 ft chucking.

Back on topic.

Yes. The bushing does replace the bearing and flange that sits between the impeller and gear box. See pic for PN. I took some video of the install.
The PN is T24124 View attachment 727204
I did the rubber on the impeller and the chute rotation mod a couple of years ago, I only have one piece of rubber left and will have to replace them when I install the new gear box. I guess I will have to talk to my dealer about the bushing,
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The bushing itself sits over the impeller shaft and holds the spacing and alignment at the rear blower wall. The enclosed gear box does the rest. Since the gear box sits in tight to the housing on the rear of the unit, it has no where to go, wiggle, or move. Once she’s in, she’s in.
My install took about 1.5 hrs, but I had a LOT of trial and error!! No instructions for assembly.
I can say this:

A) you will have to loosen the impeller unit and pull it forward as far as it will go. There are only 2 Allen screws holding it to the shaft. Mine only moves forward about 1/4”-1/2”.
You WILL have to remove the rear bearing assy and flange pieces to install the new spacer bushing and new gear box. (See trial and error mentioned above). Lol
I had to use a sledge and some wood to gently encourage the new gear box into the rear housing area. The spacing is tight (or it was in mine) and I lost a fleck of paint in the process.

Once new gear box is in, bolt that sucker down! Back to the front of the blower you can now push your impeller assy back tight and snug the Allen screws down. Attach the shirt PTO back to the gear shaft on the back side and you’re off and running.

The new gear box did NOT come with the “keys” for the shaft. I reused the old ones off the oldgear box assembly. Just tap them out of their grooves with a hammer and screwdriver.
Thanks, I replaced those allen screws the day I got the replacement blower. I used grade 8 cap screws to replace them on the fan and large sprocket. On my original blower from 1995, the allen screws came loose and the fan moved forward and bent it self up on the blower housing. Was a lot of work straightening it out and it happend twice more on that original blower. Even Loctite could not keep those allen screws tight. With the cap screws, I can put a real wrench on the bolts and the fan has never walked again and it makes for easier removel with real wrenches. I do not have allen socket wrenches so the little allen wrenches just could not provide enough torque to the set screw.
 

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I went to NAPA and got a tractor trailer mudflap. Reinforced rubber. Measured what I needed and cut a bunch of pieces out of it. I change them every season, or on the occasion I lose one. Hold them on with two self tapping screws on each.

Yeah, I’m concerned with the allens as well. They haven’t moved yet, but this whole snowblower unit has been nothing but a PITA and so I’m wary of everything now. Hahaha
 

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On a plus side, when everything was all apart and exposed, I was able to give the housing a good cleaning and wipe down. I had been lubing the old exposed gear/chain BS pretty regularly and had copious amounts of flung grease everywhere. The new gear housing should keep all that crap back there to a bare minimum now!! Haha. Will just have to wipe off the side that gets direct blow off from the exhaust.
 

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A) you will have to loosen the impeller unit and pull it forward as far as it will go. There are only 2 Allen screws holding it to the shaft. Mine only moves forward about 1/4”-1/2”.
Is the reason for moving the impeller forward to give room for the carriage bolts that are behind it to be removed?
 
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