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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New message: First, thanks for all your responses so far. This newly appreciates it...even if I'm a bit worried about 3-point hitch damage LOL. OK so here's the deal to be more specific than by original post....

The lower 3-point hitches on the iMatch are about 29" apart (far end of the bushings to far end).

On the items below, the lower 3-point hitches are about 23" apart (I can measure exactly in a little bit). So what I need is to find a way to extend the bushings about 2.5" or so.
  • Maschio L-125 tiller
  • Frontier 1023B spreader
Are there existing products, or am I modding it with a machinist?


Original Message: Well, this is a "I can't believe I didn't research it better before buying the product" help request. That said, I understand adjustments are almost always necessary.

Wife and I bought a used JD2305. It's awesome. Came with Frontier BB2048 box blade, Maschio L-125 tiller, Frontier 1023B spreader and the Rotomec PHD200 post hole digger. After struggling to get these bad boys on the 3-point hitch, guy at AgPro in western NC talked me into an iMatch. It'll fit just about anything....

So, having more money than sense (and, that ain't saying a lot), are there specific adapters for each to fit the iMatch?
  • Maschio L-125 tiller
  • Frontier 1023B spreader
  • Rotomec PHD200 (this is a long shot).
I'm researching online, but it's not easy to figure out, and your assistance will save me hundreds of mountain miles of driving. Thanks for helping this rookie.
 

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Welcome to GTT:

  • Maschio L-125 tiller
  • Frontier 1023B spreader
  • Rotomec PHD200 (this is a long shot).
-Tiller may fit, or may need to be modded to fit
-Probably not, I think only one of thier models is QH compatible. There are a few threads here on them if you search some.
-No PHD is iMatch/QH compatible since it replaces the top link
 

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It all depends if it is quick hitch compatible. As for the PHD, not a chance. I always hated to hook mine up and do not use it unless necessary. For one hole, I will probably dig it by hand. I rigged up a stand whereby I hang the PHD from it so it can be moved around for easier hookup. Big difference.

Dave
 

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Here is a video where a guy modified his 1023B spreader to make it work with the iMatch.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Welcome to GTT:


-Tiller may fit, or may need to be modded to fit
-Probably not, I think only one of thier models is QH compatible. There are a few threads here on them if you search some.
-No PHD is iMatch/QH compatible since it replaces the top link
on the PHD...if only we could make the link. business opportunity...:)

On the others, it's the modding I'm trying to grasp. I see there are kits sold at Tractor Supply (CountyLine Bushing Kit Cat. 1 https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-quick-hitch-bushing-kit-cat-1?cm_vc=-10005) Is that what I'm looking for? The websites do a terrible job of explaining how they work/fit.
 

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Nearly everything (except the PHD) can made to fit an iMatch if you are really serious. I got my cat2 10ft brush hog to fit my cat1 iMatch. Also my cat2 BB. And my Dearborn/Ford 2 bottom plow from the 50's from before they even had the iMatch. Even my JD #5 sickle mower from around 1940. You have to use a little imagination.

Dave
 

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I bought a quick hitch. Not a JD but one from Harbor Freight. It was more of a headache to hook up equipment with the hitch than just connecting to the 3 pt. I bought a "Pat's Hitch" for the 3 pt. arms and have never tried to use the quick hitch since. Sure, I have to get off the tractor and connect the top link but that's no big deal as far as I'm concerned.
The nice part of my Pat's hitch is I can use both of my brush cutters simply by widening the width of the 3 pt. arms and hold them into place with the fixture supplied with the "Pat's Hitch" for the category 2 hitch on my HD cutter which I have replaced the cat. 2 pins with cat. 1 pins. All of my equipment is compatible with any one of my three tractors. My Ford 2110 cat 1, my 5065 cat 2 and my 5225 cat 1 & cat 2.
Then again I'm in no hurry. I do this sort of thing for fun and what's more fun than hooking something to your tractor and using it to improve something.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nearly everything (except the PHD) can made to fit an iMatch if you are really serious. I got my cat2 10ft brush hog to fit my cat1 iMatch. Also my cat2 BB. And my Dearborn/Ford 2 bottom plow from the 50's from before they even had the iMatch. Even my JD #5 sickle mower from around 1940. You have to use a little imagination.

Dave
True and I know you are 100% correct. But while I'm serious about it, I'm mechanically deficient (learning but still not smart)...
 

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True and I know you are 100% correct. But while I'm serious about it, I'm mechanically deficient (learning but still not smart)...
You gotta start somewhere!! - I purchased a material collection system that needed a bunch of mods to include metal fabrication (I had zero experience) but through its retrofitting, metal fab and welding are skills I'm (VERY SLOWLY) developing. In many cases here, tractors and "shop time" is how a lot of us get away from our jobs or are spending retirement.

However sometimes, things should just work as intended/advertised, and totally understand a frustration with purchasing something (as expensive as an iMatch) and having to mod things to make it work.
 
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Here is a video where a guy modified his 1023B spreader to make it work with the iMatch.

Honestly, you have to be kidding me! There is nothing any easier to hook to a 3 pt. hitch than a cone spreader unless you are severely handicapped.
Drop your 3 pt., back up near to the spreader, grab the spreader and slide it until one of the pins will fit into the 3 pt. arm. Drop the lock pin into the spreader pin, grab the spreader again and slide it around until the pin on the spreader fits into the other 3 pt. arm. Install the lock pin, attach the top link and be on your way.
My cone spreader is much larger and heavier than the one shown and I can hook it up in less time than it took me to type this which wasn't very long.
 

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on the PHD...if only we could make the link. business opportunity...:)

On the others, it's the modding I'm trying to grasp. I see there are kits sold at Tractor Supply (CountyLine Bushing Kit Cat. 1 https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-quick-hitch-bushing-kit-cat-1?cm_vc=-10005) Is that what I'm looking for? The websites do a terrible job of explaining how they work/fit.
The iMatch (and most other cat 1* Quick Hitches) hooks are for cat 3 sized bars which require a "Quick Hitch bushing set" to properly support and secure the cat 1 implement in it. There are two types of bushings - a captured clevis pin (which is basically a hollow pipe that slides on the pin making its diameter bigger) - this however should only be used when the bushing is captured between two mounts so it can't slide off. The other type of bushings are the roll pin secured bushings - they slide on the end of the bar and are usually installed (basically permanently) with roll pins hammered through the existing lynch pin hole.

Scroll down on this website to get a better idea of the two types of bushings.

Edit: added bold cat 1, for clarity.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
You gotta start somewhere!! - I purchased a material collection system that needed a bunch of mods to include metal fabrication (I had zero experience) but through its retrofitting, metal fab and welding are skills I'm (VERY SLOWLY) developing. In many cases here, tractors and "shop time" is how a lot of us get away from our jobs or are spending retirement.

However sometimes, things should just work as intended/advertised, and totally understand a frustration with purchasing something (as expensive as an iMatch) and having to mod things to make it work.
Thanks, it's the path I'm on now. Thanks for the feedback.
 

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Honestly, you have to be kidding me! There is nothing any easier to hook to a 3 pt. hitch than a cone spreader unless you are severely handicapped.
Drop your 3 pt., back up near to the spreader, grab the spreader and slide it until one of the pins will fit into the 3 pt. arm. Drop the lock pin into the spreader pin, grab the spreader again and slide it around until the pin on the spreader fits into the other 3 pt. arm. Install the lock pin, attach the top link and be on your way.
My cone spreader is much larger and heavier than the one shown and I can hook it up in less time than it took me to type this which wasn't very long.
Dude, no need to get bitchy. Yeah, you're right, I probably should have left well enough alone, but I got enticed by the "ease" and simplicity" of the iMatch (Marketing!) and now I'm committed. Thanks for the help and advice. Have a good one.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The iMatch (and most other Quick Hitches) hooks are for cat 3 sized bars which require a "Quick Hitch bushing set" to properly support and secure the cat 1 implement in it. There are two types of bushings - a captured clevis pin (which is basically a hollow pipe that slides on the pin making its diameter bigger) - this however should only be used when the bushing is captured between two mounts so it can't slide off. The other type of bushings are the roll pin secured bushings - they slide on the end of the bar and are usually installed (basically permanently) with roll pins hammered through the existing lynch pin hole.

Scroll down on this website to get a better idea of the two types of bushings.
OK, so essentially, this will extend the bushings on the Tiller and the Spreader (both of which need about 1.5 - 2 inches on each side, to fit into the iMatch?
 

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OK, so essentially, this will extend the bushings on the Tiller and the Spreader (both of which need about 1.5 - 2 inches on each side, to fit into the iMatch?
Can't speak to the extra length, but they add some extra length and the "cat 1" 7/8th" diameter bar will become 1 7/16" diameter and will fit very snug, not loose. I'll measure tomorrow the distance from the pin hole to the bushing edge - you can add that distance to the end of your bar from lynch pin hole and see if it'll work for you.
 

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Dude, no need to get bitchy. Yeah, you're right, I probably should have left well enough alone, but I got enticed by the "ease" and simplicity" of the iMatch (Marketing!) and now I'm committed. Thanks for the help and advice. Have a good one.
DUDE! Thank you. I have no idea how many years it's been since someone called me a DUDE. You made my day.
Thank You. Have a good one yourself.
 

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If you are having to make a lot of top hook adjustments on your QH then Kenny has a solution for that. The extended hook plus the quick release pins will let you change hook positions in a couple of seconds.


John Deere iMatch™ Accessories - BoltOnHooks LLC
780771

780772
 
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I know lots of people who have had quick hitches and had problems, even seasoned people who work at dealerships and are used to working with equipment. My wife jokes, and says, "you ain't farming, unless your fighting with equipment!". I have had my share of QH implements that didn't just "work" when they were supposed to. One of the most expensive repairs on JD compact tractors the dealership sees is from 3 pt implements. The user attaches the implement and hooks up the PTO, a spreader for instance, and lowers or raises (depends on tractor type/model, and implement) the implement and PTO shaft right into the transfer case. Yes, on JD tractors, JD iMatch, and Frontier implements. ~$3,000 worth of damage each time on 1 series tractors This year, the local JD dealership has seen three of them, and it's only March. Imagine the user's surprise and frustration hearing the news of the damage, and then waiting and paying for repairs, especially for someone who is new to the tractor game.

letmgrow, I am assuming the rude comment came from you having a bad day, or perhaps just a one off - I didn't check your post history. Surely, you can provide more constructive and developing feedback to a person new to tractors, the forum, and implements, right?

mstewart54, don't get discouraged. All of use had made some equipment mistakes in our lives. Some starter tips..
1. Read some safety tips on PTO BEFORE you use it.
2. If you live in hilly territory, read some info on ROPS, safety belts, and rollover safety.
3. If you have kids or pets, make sure you look around you before you back up. Better, just to keep them in the house.
4. Careful using chains when towing stuff. If it breaks, it can hit ya
5. Careful when fully raising the loader full of stuff (rocks, bales, barrels, etc.) It could roll back towards the tractor onto you.

Not trying to derail the thread on safety. Just some points. As for the spreader, MattL seems to have you covered so far.
 

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You may want to rethink the entire Frontier PTO 3ph Cone spreader. I bought one new with my tractor and it turned out to be one of the most disappointing implements I have ever owned. When you watch the video of the guy who modified his Frontier spreader, it reminds me of why I didn't like my Frontier Spreader.

If you have used the spreader at all, you might have seen some of the spreaders "bad habits", like
- randomly throwing material onto you and inside the tractor operator area and into the 3ph area, where its harder to clean out and there is no benefit to having material landing there. The material tends to be corrosive and will oxidize and even rust areas where the material remains after use.

- It also tends to throw the material at an inconsistent width due to the material gates design, which I was only able to solve by controlling the material gate with a 12v actuator which I had to add to the spreader. Otherwise, the gate would vary in position as the tractor hits bumps, etc. verses holding one consistent distribution pattern.

-To adjust material pattern width, required stopping, manually changing the gate settings and then starting back up again, OR

- The PTO speed changes to adjust the material width also change the ground speed of the tractor, which makes the material application inconsistent when slowing down the engine speed to reduce the spreader throw distance. While its easy to limit the tractor speed to a pre set level when the engine RPM's are fast enough, when you need to slow them down to narrow the material width, you end up limiting the application speed of the machine.

- The large hopper on the ss1067 Model spreader I owned took up a lot of storage space, Granted it was the largest spreader Frontier Offered, but it also was substituted by the dealer when they couldn't get one of the smaller models I had actually purchased. I should have rejected the spreader upon delivery as it was larger than I wanted. But honestly, the size would have been easy to adapt to, verses the inconsistency of the spreader operation.

In the end, I purchased a commercial 12 volt spreader and sold the Frontier 3ph PTO Spreader. What a dramatic improvement and now the spreader only throws the material where I want it and its pattern and spread distance is easily adjusted by changing the speed of the the spreader discharge 12v motor with a control knob within reach. The material gate is pedal controlled and stays where it is set, which is helpful and as it should be.

I was able to sell the Frontier spreader for more than the 12v spreader cost and I was very happy to be rid of the Frontier spreader.

Think about some of these other issues with the spreader, besides its I Match compatibility. Now, when I come to an area in the lawn where there are landscape beds or other areas where I don't want the material to be applied, I simply turn down the spinner speed and the material distance instantly narrows. No adjusting tractor engine speed to control the PTO speed, no changing the tractors speed of travel as the engine speed varies, no worries about the initial BLAST of material which comes out of the PTO spreader when the gate is opened and you turn on the PTO which can burn that spot of the lawn.

For me, the 3ph PTO driven spreader was something which presented more difficulties than it did solve problems. You may want to look at a 12 volt option yourself..........easier to use, easier to adjust the material flow and it applies the material where I want it and not where I don't which is important to not stain concrete areas, not damage landscape beds, etc..

Also, once you have the 12 volt power harness direct from the battery at the rear of the tractor, you can use the same 12v supply to power a rear sprayer, which is a great implement and very helpful to manage most properties. The 12 volt harness for the sprayer also came with a key fob wireless remote, which is used to turn the sprayer on and off. The 12 volt 3ph 45 gallon sprayer I purchased from Frontier has been a great implement and very useful.............The battery direct harness provides the proper power to run either implement and not over load the tractors electrical system.

Something to think about...........
 
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