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Discussion Starter #1
Last Feb I took the plunge and bought a snowthrower for the tractor. Seller was in Indiana and said it was in good shape. His idea of good and mine are quite different.:rolleyes:

The OEM mechanism was Rube Goldberg inspired, and seized up solid no less... So I strapped a ratchet strap around it and made due with having to manually move it as needed. And That sucked!

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After a couple decent snowfalls, I decided it was high time to make my move on revamping the system.

I ordered a #50 sprocket big enough to allow the 12.625" ID hole for the chute base, bought a NOS hydraulic motor off ebay, and we were off to the races!

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The upside of crappy farmer welds is that they're easily defeated. :cool: I'm going to rebuild the top of the chute when the weather improves this Spring.

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After tack welding in a stub axle to the 2" hub hole, I clamped said axle with my Super Spacer's chuck and sent the gear for a ride in the mill.

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Then, after much pounding (I could've stood to make the hole a few thou bigger), we were ready for welding.

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How big is your chute base?
I apologize if I missed the make of your snow blower. I really like what you have done. It looks much simpler than the factory option.

What size chain and motor sprocket? Motor size and brand?

If you are serious and interested, I will measure later this week and send you a PM. Thanks!
 

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It's a New Idea 84".

I'm curious to see how yours is set up?

One of the guys in a fb group I'm in said he works for Woods and could sell me their electric actuator and pendant for $150 (cost), and I'm not sure I even have that in mine. Plus, I will never worry about water getting in it and freezing. 😄

I got my motor off ebay for cheap. The large #50 sprocket came from Surplus Center, and the small one came from Amazon, as did my #50 chain - of all places. My local Fleet Farm was out of chain when I was buying parts, and Amazon had the same brand for the same price so with prime it was no different than buying it locally.

This is the data plate off my motor:
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The only real consideration on gearing is having enough "wrap" around the pinion to keep the chain from walking off. You can also deal with that with an idler or a tensioning roller, but I like minimal moving parts whenever possible.

The sizing of the driven sprocket is based on having sufficient material inside of the teeth so that your welds won't interfere with the chain. With such a slow speed and enormous tooth engagement, I'm not sure you could booger it up bad enough to be an issue without actually trying to. :ROFLMAO: But, in thinking it over, I have a revision that will make it a bolt-on part rather than needing welding on your end.

Yes, I'd be happy to make you a chute gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
One of the guys over on another forum was wondering about the original configuration, so I pulled these pics off some sale posts.

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UPDATE: I measured the chute diameter 9-3/8". I will try to get some pictures of the chute area today. Looking at my chute, the gear OD might be limited by the chute configuration. Perhaps the pictures will provide details. Thanks for your interest.
 
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Some pictures of the AgroTrend chute. The chute rotates on the plate with the holes. P1140699.JPG P1140700.JPG P1140698.JPG P1140706.JPG P1140704.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What rotates the bar to wind the cable?

I think I'd approach this by making the ID match the chute OD, then notch out for the clamp tabs. If you wanted to go chain drive.

Another option would be an infinite loop belt driven by a hydraulic motor. 2 wraps of a v-belt around the chute, and a couple around a flat drum with retention flanges (think H on it's side) on the motor would likely get you the performance you're after.
 

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That's really nice work!
 
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