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Is your seat switch bypassed?

Did the replacement fuse immediately blow this time?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
No the replacement fuse didn’t blow, when I put it in I thought it should at least start up and run like it did last time

but the dash screen is dead, absolutely nothing is lighting up on the dash console when you turn the key, and no the PTO is not on, the park brake is on etc
 

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So whatever that fuse feeds has become an open circuit. In other words, the wire or device that has been grounding out and blowing the fuse has taken the place of the fuse presenting an open circuit. The only way to find the issue is to take a meter and follow the voltage from where it appears to where it ends. When you find the wire or component that no longer passes 12v you have found your problem.

Carefully look at all of your wiring for burned, loose, chafed, or shorted wire. Also, check the switch by turning it on and check for voltage passing through the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I’ve no clue how to do this stuff I might call the local dealer and have them pick it up, and I’m stuck for time with work and kids and it’s out there in the freezing cold driveway

if I got the time I’d check it out

there’s a directional blade fuse in the box I’m also wondering is that blown, like if I find out where this wire is and fix it, should that then allow everything to light up?
even when I replace the blown fuse nothing is lighting up which makes me think there’s an in line fuse or something I’m missing or can’t find or a broken switch....

I figure the route of the problem is like you say a burnt wire or loose or exposed wire, but why won’t it even light up after replacing the fuse? Is something else down stream dead?
 

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It's a much harder problem to sort out without a schematic as you would have to identify the wire under the fuse and follow it.
One example I could illustrate would be the seat switch on my 1025r swiveling seat.
I have seen this switch wire showing evidence of becoming trapped and flattened on occasion.
One failure mode could be that the wires get crushed, short to ground and blow the fuse.
After this happens a couple times and the wire is further damaged the wire itself becomes the fuse and melts in half.
Thereafter, the fuse replacement does not restore power to the circuit.
In this scenario I would be able to start the machine but selecting a gear would result in the machine shutting off.

I'm sorry to hear you are having this problem at the middle of winter. It makes it that much harder to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Update:

So I just had a bit of a look. I removed the instrument panel surround as best I could, I couldn’t completely remove it because the steering wheel and throttle lever prevent me pulling it up. But from what I saw the wiring is intact, nothing burnt or raw and exposed.

I noticed that the replacement 20 fuse in socket A was now burnt/broke. So I replaced it with a new one wondering if it would start up, the second I turned the key I heard a snap/pop BEFORE anything lit up and it blew that fuse in A again.

for the most part I see nothing along the wiring harness Without it’s complete removal to be an issue

the battery connects and connection to the frame are all intact, seat wiring appears fine
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Update 2

I thought I made a break through when I found a broken bulb! It was shattered and probably from work during the summer and forgot about it. I replaced the bulb, there was no corrosionand thought this was the moment, put in a new fuse but it blew again!
Same one 20A in slot A

I listened for the pop and it appears to be coming from behind the key starter but I may be imagining things...
 

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As I'm sure you know, there is a short somewhere. You just have to find it. Like already mentioned, a wiring diagram would help.
 

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I would first remove your charge port since that was the only change before it started happening. It shouldn’t be related, but it eliminates that.

Next id pull the fender and middle pan, I have heard of older x series crushing the harness in that area, it was supposed to be rerouted but who knows if someone didn’t fill in on that job for the day and not look up new procedures. Assuming you bought it new. If you got it used, there’s no telling what might have happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yeh that’s my suspicion is there something under the middle pan/fender crushed perhaps

but I can’t help but think the instrument panel may have a circuit board short, and if it does, does that cause the issues I’m having? Cos I can’t repair that or at least it ain’t a quick fix
 

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Yeh that’s my suspicion is there something under the middle pan/fender crushed perhaps

but I can’t help but think the instrument panel may have a circuit board short, and if it does, does that cause the issues I’m having? Cos I can’t repair that or at least it ain’t a quick fix
Well you can debate it to infinity, or you can pull the fenders and confirm or deny. You don’t seem interested in testing your way to the problem, so that leaves inspecting or paying a professional.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I’ve bought a multimeter to check it out in the meantime!

I’ve to wait until Friday for it to be picked up by a professional!

in the meantime I’ll do what I can with peoples advice to try get this thing going!

judging from the first minute of this video, I do NOT hear any click at all when I turn the key, therefore it’s suggesting a problem with the solenoid or power to the solenoid and I wouldn’t be surprised if the solenoid is bad

 

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Discussion Starter #33
Solenoid tested fine, it’s getting 12v
Removed the NOCO wiring to test that wasn’t an issue and it’s fine, still blew a fuse when I replaced with new fuse and tested again

it’s blowing the fuse when I half turn the key, even with the lights and rear 12v outlet turned off

I’m just waiting for the service crew to pick it up and curiosity just checking things out
 

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When I had the issue with the wire rub for the injector wire there was no sign of a burnt wire. I found my thread chasing this one down on MTF and there are some pics. I was initially thinking it was something with the fuel pump or that circuit.


If you look at the pics the only sign of an issue was the bolt for the valve cover was clean like something was rubbing on it and the electrical tape on the harness was wore through. In this case I don't think there was much for amps going to the injector so it didn't burn anything but anytime I hit a little bump the EFI fuse would blow and I was dead in the water.

Again not saying it is your issue, but just showing the problem I had and how hard it might be to spot. Unfortunately one goes through a lot of fuses chasing this down. Also a lot of frustration.

A side note you mentioned the replacement of the fuse holder before you also mentioned the charging. What order were these things done in?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Hey. I didn’t replace the fuse box or anything I just wired in a Noco battery tender direct to the battery. I removed that completely and replaced the fuse and turned the key and it blew again. So it’s not the NOCO to be fair
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The update:
So it’s been away for almost 2 weeks.
The eventual issue was the rear PTO switch was shorting out.
Possible lack of space for the wiring harness and I guess with vibrations would wear through the wire.

everything else tested normal.

ive heard before from other x700 series people of wiring harness issues

they said the weight brack/rear 3PH area was very constrained in space for the wiring
 

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I remember when I got my X739 the dealer didn't do a very good job routing wires when installing rear PTO and 3-point hitch. I was lucky I noticed it and rerouted the wires. If i remember correctly mine was almost pinched by the 3-point arm.
 

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Thanks for posting the update. It's interesting because here is what your original post said about the problem, edited for brevity.......

""I was using my x758 tonight moving light snow in the driveway. I was just done when I barely hit the lip of granite cobble where it transitions on the asphalt. There was a bit of a bang/bounce/thud call it whatever, and the whole machine just stopped dead in its tracks.
Turning the key to restart does nothing.There are no lights coming on or anything. Literally the machine is dead in its last spot.
.""

Do you plow snow or blow snow? Obviously, the bump caused a dead short somewhere, but I am trying to imagine if you were plowing and not blowing snow, thereby using the PTO, how that could have caused the machine to be dead in the water.

When it won't crank or do anything, its as if the safety switch circuit is enacted. If you were using the PTO, I could see how this would happen, If you were plowing snow, then I need insight explaining what they found and repaired to solve your issue.......

Again, thanks for posting a follow up and telling us what was done. Did they just repair the harness or end up re routing a portion of it or replacing it, did the service order provide those details or part numbers of items used to fix it?
 

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I would imagine we have to inspect the wiring schematic to be sure or multimeter but I suspect there is power at the RIO Switch all the time.

He did say PTO Switch not PTO Solenoid so if there is power at the RIO which I suspect, it could be that there was something in that operator station that was causing a rub and a intermittent failure where it would blow a fuse. This would be the case if he was using PTO (blowing snow) or just driving the tractor. If it was at the solenoid, then I would tend to agree that it should only be an issue if PTO was on as that is the only time that circuit would see power.

Since the RIO is also part of the safety interlock circuit, even if there were no blown fuse it could in theory cause a no crank.

As I mentioned before I had a dead short much like this where my harness was rerun incorrectly following when the dealer pulled my engine. This caused the harness to rub on the bolt head for one of the valve covers. It wore through and any small bump would be enough to ground out one of the injectors and blow the EFI circuit. There were no melted wires or anything obvious. It just took time with everything (body work) stripped off the machine, a pile of fuses and jiggling and tapping on the harness. I coated mine with liquid electrical tape, rewrapped the haness in that section in more regular electrical tape. Then put it in a wire loom and properly routed and zip tied the harness so it doesn't move.

When I inspected the harness there was just a little bit of chafing on the electrical tape like material that the harness was made of, a shiny spot on the edge of the bolt head and that was about it. I suspect there isn't much of a load on EFI and it is a pulse signal not something constant hot so it wouldn't have melted or burned anything. Just enough to bump the amp draw a little bit more than the fuse rating.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
So to be specific the guy who answered my call didn’t work on it so I’m awaiting that call, he just read the notes

it was the transmission PTO....it sounds like something like inadequate space or something back there at the 3PH arms. They said the quick connect weight bracket didn’t have all the pins connected either, however I don’t see how that caused the problem, I’d imagine it didn’t help, but the cause was improper routing of the wiring harness at factory.

the machine has only 80 hours on the clock, it’s under warranty....let’s hope they help me out on it
 
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