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Hi - I like adding things to my tractor. It's a 2016 1025r FLB with a 60 inch MMM. If it can help increase versatility, I like to add it. I think what I have seen on this subject I would have to have an electric one.

But what is the use case for the MMM independent lift kit?

And if I can find a use case, am I correct I will need to go electric?
 

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Any use of three point while mowing..
Sprayer? Aerator? Roller? Spreader? All these would require manipulation of the height of the three point in operation where the deck may not want to be lifted. If you are trying to optimize passes this is where the independent lift shines. Wish I had it...
 

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I use the MMM more than any other attachment, so it stays on the tractor. But if I need my box blade I have to drop the MMM to use it. Learned the hard way not to try and attach the MMM with the box blade on, tears a good hole in the ground. However, I have heard that using the independent lift is a pain in the butt, that you have to press a button below the steering wheel meaning lots of leaning over. I'd like a happy solution to both problems.
 

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I use the MMM more than any other attachment, so it stays on the tractor. But if I need my box blade I have to drop the MMM to use it. Learned the hard way not to try and attach the MMM with the box blade on, tears a good hole in the ground. However, I have heard that using the independent lift is a pain in the butt, that you have to press a button below the steering wheel meaning lots of leaning over. I'd like a happy solution to both problems.
When mower is on and you want to use 3PT Just raise the mower up and LOCK it. It should stay up and the 3pt should lower
 

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One heck of a powerful electric motor required to lift the mower deck. At the very least a massive gear box to multiply torque run on 12 volts. The time to move up and down could not be as fast as hydraulic cylinder.

Yes the independent hydraulic cylinder lift using the joy stick is very convient and quick. It should be standard equipment as far as I'm concerned when a mower deck is ordered. But the cylinder being permanent mounted the coupling s/b jumpered and permanent lined in too. The electric switch option is poorly thought out. It s/b a open and close circuit redirecting hydraulic path (black coupling) and still operate with the joy stick. Having to hold the switch is just plain goofy. JD sometimes designs non friendly operability as if they never used a tractor............... Cost can't be the reason they charge enough.

Examples mower switch, pull up to reverse, seat switch, front override pto switch, roll bar too high, front carrier bearings w/o seals, chain on blower w/o master link and I'm sure there are others.
 

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One heck of a powerful electric motor required to lift the mower deck. At the very least a massive gear box to multiply torque run on 12 volts. The time to move up and down could not be as fast as hydraulic cylinder.
the new 2R's have a fully electric lift for the decks, IIRC. :greentractorride:
 

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I installed the Independent Lift on my new 1025R. Let's recap the differences;

1. Mechanical Lift: The mower deck rockshaft is connected by a solid link to the 3-point rockshaft. They move together, no matter what. I'm guessing that is what you have now.

2. Hydraulic Lift: The mower deck rockshaft to 3-point rockshaft link is removed. A lift only hydraulic cylinder is added underneath the foot board on the left side. It connects to one of the loader Quick Disconnects. So you have to uncouple one or the other. The joystick then controls the mower deck lift.

3. Independent Lift: The same hydraulic cylinder is added under the left side of the footboard. There is no sharing of FEL Quick Disconnects. An electric solenoid hydraulic valve is added under the frame crossover plate, under the footboard. The factory location for the switch is in the lower portion of the console, where there is a blank plug. As members have done, I didn't install the switch there, but installed it where the PTO switch is now and moved the PTO switch adjacent to it, next to steering column bellows. It is much easier to operate.

4. Others have utilized aftermarket components so the mower deck remains up when lifted by the switch, so you don't have to hold the switch and turn the mower deck height dial to the position you want the deck to stay at. I probably wouldn't want to control the mow height in this manner as it would be difficult to duplicate and there would be leak down.

Here is a thread I authored on installing Independent Lift:

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/101914-installing-independent-deck-lift-1025r.html
 

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I use the MMM more than any other attachment, so it stays on the tractor. But if I need my box blade I have to drop the MMM to use it. Learned the hard way not to try and attach the MMM with the box blade on, tears a good hole in the ground. However, I have heard that using the independent lift is a pain in the butt, that you have to press a button below the steering wheel meaning lots of leaning over. I'd like a happy solution to both problems.
This would fall under the heading of a First-World Problem. It's not so much of a pain in the butt as it is somewhat inconvienient. For some reason I always wind up pressing the toggle switch with my left hand (by my left knee) which forces me to reach my right hand under my left knee to get to the height adjustment/lock knob. I liken it to the game twister.

I may look into moving my toggle switch sometime when I get older.
 

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When mower is on and you want to use 3PT Just raise the mower up and LOCK it. It should stay up and the 3pt should lower
I wrote the backward. When I want to put the mower back on when using the box blade, you have to drop it. Hence the hole in the yard. I typically don't use the backhoe, FEL or any 3pt with the MMM on. I like the extra clearance without it.
 

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One heck of a powerful electric motor required to lift the mower deck. At the very least a massive gear box to multiply torque run on 12 volts. The time to move up and down could not be as fast as hydraulic cylinder.
I had a Sears garden tractor over 20 years ago that had a Cat 0 3-point with a linear actuator (12 volt) for raising and lowering it. It would lift the tiller that fit on the 3-point (that had its own 8 hp engine) like it was nothing. The same type of lift system is used on UTV's today for a power-dump bed.

After living with the MMM lift setup on my 1025r I've never understood why JD didn't use this method on these tractors. Now it looks like they do on the new 2 series.
 
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