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Discussion Starter #1
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I would like to install some air-liquid valve stems on the rear wheels before the dealer adds ballast to the tires, to avoid the eventual failure of the OEM valve stems.

I have found these:
Valve Stems.JPG

Valve Stem Specs.JPG

They require a 0.625" hole in the wheel, and I was wondering if anyone knows what the stock hole size is, and whether they need to be made larger.

Has anybody gone through this, and are there any other recommendations for these, or another brand valve stem? I am fairly sure that these ones are sourced from China. :dunno:
 

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When my valve stems failed I took the tires to Les Schwab and they put in metal stems. You'd think that the dealer would have put in metal stems when they filled the tires, but apparently - well, they just aren't that good.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
'
I haven't taken delivery of my new 1025R yet, ...just trying to stay ahead of the curve.

I also found NAPA air-liquid valve stems that were mentioned in another post that I found here after I first started this thread, but they are 3/8" longer than the Haltec ones posted above. Shorter is better for this application, I think, but I can pick up the NAPA ones tomorrow instead of waiting for the Haltec ones to show up in the mail.

Valve stem NAPA.JPG

Valve stem NAPA 2.JPG
 

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If you haven't taken delivery yet then have the dealer install metal stems - they should do this automatically, but mine didn't. If they can't do that then maybe have Les Schwab fill them with beet juice instead of the dealer, they can install metal stems at the same time.

I see you have the "independent lift" option listed. I consider the independent lift to be a downgrade - unless you need to raise and lower the 3pt while mowing. If you don't need to adjust the height of the 3pt while mowing then you might be happier (and have more money) with the standard mechanical lift (which is actually hydraulic). Just be sure you know exactly what the differences are. My dealer added the independent lift to my quote telling me "you'll love it". I researched exactly what it was and came to the conclusion that it only served to make them some money - aside from the very few folks that actually do need to raise/lower the 3pt while(!) mowing.

The standard mechanical lift is a linkage that connects to the 3pt rockshaft. To raise and lower the deck you use the position control lever with your right hand. You can raise or lower fast/slow a little bit to a lot. If you use the position control lock then you don't even need to use the mower height cam. When not mowing you lock the deck in the up position and you can use the 3pt normally.

With the independent lift they add a solenoid controlled hydraulic cylinder. To raise the deck you lean forward and push a button on the dash. As long as you hold it the deck raises. Let go and the deck drops. No fine control, it is off or on. You MUST use the mower height cam to keep the deck at a certain height. This seems less convenient to me - unless of course you have a special need to operate the 3pt while mowing, then it is a good solution. The only benefit is that you can raise and lower the 3pt to your heart's content while cutting grass without affecting the deck height, but that only makes sense if there is some implement back there that must be controlled while you are cutting the grass.

I think many people (not all of course) that say they are happy with the independent lift have been up-sold on it and don't know what they are missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you haven't taken delivery yet then have the dealer install metal stems - they should do this automatically, but mine didn't. If they can't do that then maybe have Les Schwab fill them with beet juice instead of the dealer, they can install metal stems at the same time.
You would think so, but evidently not! Beet juice was "thrown in" with the tractor deal, so Les Schwab is out for filling them. If CCL&T won't do it from the git-go, I will take delivery with no ballast, and drag the rears down to Schwab or Discount Tire and bring them back to the dealer to fill.

Did Schwab have to ream out the holes larger to fit the new stems?
 

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I learned something here. My rear filled tires (wind shield washer fluid) just have the regular stems in them. if they start to leak I will now know the remedy. :bigthumb:
 

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If you haven't taken delivery yet then have the dealer install metal stems - they should do this automatically, but mine didn't. If they can't do that then maybe have Les Schwab fill them with beet juice instead of the dealer, they can install metal stems at the same time.

I see you have the "independent lift" option listed. I consider the independent lift to be a downgrade - unless you need to raise and lower the 3pt while mowing. If you don't need to adjust the height of the 3pt while mowing then you might be happier (and have more money) with the standard mechanical lift (which is actually hydraulic). Just be sure you know exactly what the differences are. My dealer added the independent lift to my quote telling me "you'll love it". I researched exactly what it was and came to the conclusion that it only served to make them some money - aside from the very few folks that actually do need to raise/lower the 3pt while(!) mowing.

The standard mechanical lift is a linkage that connects to the 3pt rockshaft. To raise and lower the deck you use the position control lever with your right hand. You can raise or lower fast/slow a little bit to a lot. If you use the position control lock then you don't even need to use the mower height cam. When not mowing you lock the deck in the up position and you can use the 3pt normally.

With the independent lift they add a solenoid controlled hydraulic cylinder. To raise the deck you lean forward and push a button on the dash. As long as you hold it the deck raises. Let go and the deck drops. No fine control, it is off or on. You MUST use the mower height cam to keep the deck at a certain height. This seems less convenient to me - unless of course you have a special need to operate the 3pt while mowing, then it is a good solution. The only benefit is that you can raise and lower the 3pt to your heart's content while cutting grass without affecting the deck height, but that only makes sense if there is some implement back there that must be controlled while you are cutting the grass.

I think many people (not all of course) that say they are happy with the independent lift have been up-sold on it and don't know what they are missing.
Just throwing this out there. If there is one thing that I don't like about my X585 when I used to mow with it is that the mower is tied to the 3pt hitch. It isn't that I wanted to move the 3pt when mowing, it was more that I didn't have choice in it not moving. A case where it would be nice to be able to move it when mowing is if you have a HH with trailer hitch and you need to move trailers around while mowing. You could back up, pick up the trailer and move it without getting off the machine.

Granted one could say why mow with the 3pt on a small X Series. The answer to that isn't that I needed the ballast for mowing but it was yet another thing to mess with when I put on the FEL.

I solved my issue by making the 3pt move independent from the mower. Now I can move one without moving the other. That is because this was one of the reasons my X585 was retired from mowing duties. I got tired of the change over. I didn't like mowing with the FEL because of center of gravity issues and I bought a ZTrak.

Of course no one option is best for every situation but does the 3pt have an isolation valve when you so with the standard lift where they are linked? The only way to isolated the two on the X Series is to turn this stupid threaded rod with a spring pin through the end a million times which adjusts the lower limit stop.
 

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I learned something here. My rear filled tires (wind shield washer fluid) just have the regular stems in them. if they start to leak I will now know the remedy. :bigthumb:
I did washer fluid quite a few years ago an no issues.

Where I have seen the most valve stem issues is when they use calcium chloride for ballast in the tires. It is very corrosive so you will either have a valve stem failure or it will eat through the rims. Washer fluid is high in water content so you can have issues rust but not as bad as calcium chloride which is the crap that they (car dealers lobbyists influencing the DOT) spray on the roads around here to rust out our cars and trucks.

Beet juice however is pretty safe. I would love to be they guy that figured this out. They used to dump this stuff or pay someone to take it away as there was no use for it. Now they make a killing on it.
 

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I did washer fluid quite a few years ago an no issues.

Where I have seen the most valve stem issues is when they use calcium chloride for ballast in the tires. It is very corrosive so you will either have a valve stem failure or it will eat through the rims. Washer fluid is high in water content so you can have issues rust but not as bad as calcium chloride which is the crap that they (car dealers lobbyists influencing the DOT) spray on the roads around here to rust out our cars and trucks.

Beet juice however is pretty safe. I would love to be they guy that figured this out. They used to dump this stuff or pay someone to take it away as there was no use for it. Now they make a killing on it.
I assume that those metal air-liquid valve stems still use a conventional valve stem core? I have washer fluid in my rear tires from new but later put RimGuard in my front tires. Both my front and rear tires have metal valve stems.

I had a problem where the RimGuard corroded the valve stem cores. I discovered it when I went to check the air pressure in my front tires and after depressing the valve stem core with the tire gauge air just continued to leak out until the tire was flat. I then tried to remove the valve stem core and found it all tight and frozen inside the valve stem. It eventually broke off inside the valve stem and luckily I was able to use an EZ-Out to remove the remaining section. I cleaned up the threads and installed a new valve stem core. Upon checking the air in the other tire the same thing happened where the tire went flat but I was able to remove the core without it breaking.

Below are what the cores looked like when I removed them. You can see they are all corroded with hardened beet juice - rendering them inoperable.

So while RimGuard / beet juice may not rust out your steel rims, it isn't too friendly to your valve stem cores.
 

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I assume that those metal air-liquid valve stems still use a conventional valve stem core? I have washer fluid in my rear tires from new but later put RimGuard in my front tires. Both my front and rear tires have metal valve stems.

I had a problem where the RimGuard corroded the valve stem cores. I discovered it when I went to check the air pressure in my front tires and after depressing the valve stem core with the tire gauge air just continued to leak out until the tire was flat. I then tried to remove the valve stem core and found it all tight and frozen inside the valve stem. It eventually broke off inside the valve stem and luckily I was able to use an EZ-Out to remove the remaining section. I cleaned up the threads and installed a new valve stem core. Upon checking the air in the other tire the same thing happened where the tire went flat but I was able to remove the core without it breaking.

Below are what the cores looked like when I removed them. You can see they are all corroded with hardened beet juice - rendering them inoperable.

So while RimGuard / beet juice may not rust out your steel rims, it isn't too friendly to your valve stem cores.
Hmm that is interesting. I guess I have always looked at it from the rim perspective.
 

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I put together a set of R3 turfs, to supplement the R4s, for one of my 1025Rs a year or so back. I purchased a bag of 100 valve stems when I did. So I just checked the bag, they are TR412-100, but no dimensions. I purchased them from Amazon, so I looked up TR412-100 and it states they are for 0.453" (11.5mm) rim hole.
 

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I went a different route when I had Rim Guard put in the rear tires of my 1025 … I had the tire dealer put tubes in the tires first ...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I put together a set of R3 turfs, to supplement the R4s, for one of my 1025Rs a year or so back. I purchased a bag of 100 valve stems when I did. So I just checked the bag, they are TR412-100, but no dimensions. I purchased them from Amazon, so I looked up TR412-100 and it states they are for 0.453" (11.5mm) rim hole.
Thanks for the info. I guess I need to rummage around in my pile of tools for some drills and a 0.625" dia. reamer now.
 
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