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After having several questions and requests, here’s a quick show n tell of my current precip shade. Don’t pay any mind to the exposed insulation in the garage!! Hahaha. Always a damn project to do.

BLUF: it is not an all weather solution, and offers ZERO protection from wind driven elements.

I used stuff I had hanging around the garage and house.

A 43 x 32” piece of flimsy sheet metal that was a “tray” for one of the old doggy kennels. One 3/8” hole was drilled on each corner of the tray.
Some length of 1x10 and 1x6 boards.
A Handful of 1/2 self tap screws.
A length of rope. Not sure on the exact length, as I have a roll of marine anchor rope.
2 small bungee cords.

I Measured the 1x10 wood to fit inside the tray lengthwise. And secured with screws. This gave the relatively flimsy metal tray some longitudinal stability.
I then measured out and cut the 1x6 board to brace the 1x10 laterally. Those were also secured with screws.
I then took measurements of the ROP top bar width and used a router to channel out the supporting boards so the ROP bar had a groove to rest in and keep the whole thing from shifting around.
After that, I secured one end of the rope to the exposed motor mount and ran it up through one hole, over to the other hole and back down to the opposing motor mount.
Using bungee cords on the remaining rear holes of the tray, I secured the bungees to a lower part of the ROP in the rear. This provides enough down force in the rear to pull on the front ropes nicely, securing the whole shade in place on the ROP top bar with the groove that was cut.

Works fine for shade in the summer.
Works way better than nothing at all during winter storms. Keeps the dash dry when it’s all coming down; your seat and controls dry as well. Only time I swear is when I’m blowing snow and it’s windy. Hahaha. Those that know, know.
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Thanks for posting and being a boater, I am ALWAYS impressed when people tie knots correctly (by the motor mount). (y)
Now seeing the entire shade, it makes much more sense.......

One suggestion I would make, which is totally unrelated to your precip shade is I would route your Snow Thrower hydraulic lines straight back and through the protection of the quick hitch perimeter and then back to the connectors. Having the hoses out and not through the hitch leave them susceptible to getting caught on something and possibly damaging the hoses, the connectors, etc.

I would run them straight back towards the grille, through the area of the quick hitch between the top horizontal cross bar and then around the corner of the hood and back. I would also support them at the corner of either the grille guard or using a hose support (a second one if necessary) to keep them as close to the tractor as possible.

You don't need any room for movement on the hoses, once the blower is connected. Don't stretch them tight, but get them tucked in to the tractor to avoid possible problems.

Just a suggestion................ Thanks again for posting......
 

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After having several questions and requests, here’s a quick show n tell of my current precip shade. Don’t pay any mind to the exposed insulation in the garage!! Hahaha. Always a damn project to do.

BLUF: it is not an all weather solution, and offers ZERO protection from wind driven elements.

I used stuff I had hanging around the garage and house.

A 43 x 32” piece of flimsy sheet metal that was a “tray” for one of the old doggy kennels. One 3/8” hole was drilled on each corner of the tray.
Some length of 1x10 and 1x6 boards.
A Handful of 1/2 self tap screws.
A length of rope. Not sure on the exact length, as I have a roll of marine anchor rope.
2 small bungee cords.

I Measured the 1x10 wood to fit inside the tray lengthwise. And secured with screws. This gave the relatively flimsy metal tray some longitudinal stability.
I then measured out and cut the 1x6 board to brace the 1x10 laterally. Those were also secured with screws.
I then took measurements of the ROP top bar width and used a router to channel out the supporting boards so the ROP bar had a groove to rest in and keep the whole thing from shifting around.
After that, I secured one end of the rope to the exposed motor mount and ran it up through one hole, over to the other hole and back down to the opposing motor mount.
Using bungee cords on the remaining rear holes of the tray, I secured the bungees to a lower part of the ROP in the rear. This provides enough down force in the rear to pull on the front ropes nicely, securing the whole shade in place on the ROP top bar with the groove that was cut.

Works fine for shade in the summer.
Works way better than nothing at all during winter storms. Keeps the dash dry when it’s all coming down; your seat and controls dry as well. Only time I swear is when I’m blowing snow and it’s windy. Hahaha. Those that know, know.
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Now that right there is the kinds work I would do. Good job (y)
 

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(y)
 

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Interesting...it will work. I'm a frugal person, but even I wouldn't have thought of something like this that was very simple to do. I know the JD version costs about $600, which is crazy. Great Job my friend. Enjoy the shade and semi dry tractor work!
 

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Mjdbennett
I got this last year paid $375 I think and love it had to fab a top half of the top bar because the door height.
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That's a pretty neat top fab. Got any details on how you fabricated it. Some up close pics would be nice too
 

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Big the canopy is made by A & I products. Then just to make a new top half roll bar my 2018 has one of the fall bar that would got the garage I use 2x2x1/4. With a piece of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 in side it.
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