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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 4200 HST that has the optional rear hydraulics that is operated by the lever on the fender that uses the third spool of the 3-spool unit. Is this an open neutral system, I figured it was closed, but I'm not sure? Do I need to have a double lock valve on the hydraulic top link or can I use a less expensive top link without the lock valve?

Is there anything else to be concerned about other than the open and closed stroke of the top link?
 

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:wgtt:

Your tractor has a OC (Open Center) hydraulic system, but that does not matter since you already have the valve. Whether or not a DPOCV (Double Pilot Operated Check Valve) is "needed" a tough question that I will not answer for you-there are good arguments on both sides of that debate. Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com can make you a custom setup without the valves, or the Surplus Center sells them with...


I PM'ed Brian to let him know about your thread...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So the spool valve itself will "hold" the cyclinder for the most part. And the check valves will "lock" the cyclinder from creeping and incase a hose should break, etc.? I've been reading a lot on this site and I think I'm getting the hang of it now. I think I may just stick with the check valves because of the creep issue. I don't change the top link length often, mostly when changing implements and I don't change them everyday. But I am sick of the hard-to-turn manual top link with all the dirt lodged in the threads.

Thanks for the info.
 

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Binding would be my first concern. Generally there is only so much room at either end. Often I see there is kind of a stand off between the cylinder and the hemi/ball joint with the pin hole. I have one I might order but really would like to find a 2 1/2 inch diameter one. The pull will only have pressure on the bore area minus the rod area.

Unlike most on internet forums I would only use it occasionally and when on it would most likely be operated a lot. The standard threaded top links work quite well if they maintained. IF it doesn't turn easily take it apart and clean it with wire brush and solvent both internal and external thread. The tractor supply kind with the bar to turn in the middle I use a bolt and nut which I turn with a big adjustable wrench I generally carry and use on the draft link sideways turnbuckle things.

Surely there is more risk of squish injury with a heavier top link which won't latch in the up position like the original.

Fran
 

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Thanks Kenny for the heads up. :thumbup1gif:

ctuinstra, one of the things to be concerned with is your top link retainer. Either you need to get a top link that has the hydraulic ports on the side which is what I recommend for you, or remove the retainer, or run the std type type links that everyone else sells with the ports turned down and I believe that that proposes another set of clearance problems in itself. For your circumstances either type of top link, plain or one with the check valves should work fine for you. I personally don't feel that the check valves are needed, but many people argue that they are a must.

Best way to get the right length for your uses is to get what I call the true mid stroke length. That is the pin-pin measurement when attached to an implement with the implement flat on the ground, level front to back and side to side. Then get a top link that is closest to that measurement when it is at its' mid stroke and you will be all set. If need be I can build one that matches your needs. I build them all anyway, no big deal to build what you need.

Good luck with your decisions. :bye:
 

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Binding would be my first concern. Generally there is only so much room at either end. Often I see there is kind of a stand off between the cylinder and the hemi/ball joint with the pin hole. I have one I might order but really would like to find a 2 1/2 inch diameter one. The pull will only have pressure on the bore area minus the rod area.

Unlike most on internet forums I would only use it occasionally and when on it would most likely be operated a lot. The standard threaded top links work quite well if they maintained. IF it doesn't turn easily take it apart and clean it with wire brush and solvent both internal and external thread. The tractor supply kind with the bar to turn in the middle I use a bolt and nut which I turn with a big adjustable wrench I generally carry and use on the draft link sideways turnbuckle things.

Surely there is more risk of squish injury with a heavier top link which won't latch in the up position like the original.

Fran
No problem with the 2 1/2" dia cylinder and no problem building a link that can make use of all the pin locations if that is what is needed. What size tractor do you have? :question:
 

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No problem with the 2 1/2" dia cylinder and no problem building a link that can make use of all the pin locations if that is what is needed. What size tractor do you have? :question:

I found your website. I only found one customer pictures in the new section.
At this time all my tractors with three point hitches are pretty close in size, 5000 pounds or so with a one inch diameter hole for the top link. I have one with a front three point and an extra hydraulic line. I will send a private message as they are not compact or related to this thread title.

fran
 

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I found your website. I only found one customer pictures in the new section.
At this time all my tractors with three point hitches are pretty close in size, 5000 pounds or so with a one inch diameter hole for the top link. Let's discuss a Deere 5410 with the smallest Buckeye front hitch can't recall his model #. I figured it could be mounted either way, rod or cylinder toward tractor depending on whether the implement or the tractor had more metal in the way. I think 20 inches closed was a bit longer than ideal for what I have in mind, think forks and dumping.
Normally on any tractor above 60hp I use 3" dia cylinders, but that is for the rear 3pt hitch hydraulics. You say that you want to dump, but if you go shorter which is easily done, just not listed, isn't that going to make it so that you will not be able to dump as far. Tell me what you want and need and I will tell you what I can do to get what you want. :bye:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Welcome to the OP, and I have the same tractor as you do. Here is my hydraulic top-link set up.


https://picasaweb.google.com/110106108324823291002/TopNTilt#
Thanks for the pics! That helps a lot.

Could you have loosened and turned the check valve unit so your hoses would be on the side instead of the bottom? What size of hose it that you are using in the pics? I was really surprised to see you are running a 11" bore, I figured the 8" was the only way to go on this size tractor. What is the open/closed measurement eye to eye? I'm looking for something that is around 18"-19" closed which is what my original screw-type of top link is. The only time I need it really long is when I run the rear finish mower so it can undulate with the lay of the land and not pick up the rear of the mower when I go over the terraces. Just when I thought I needed an 8", now I'm wondering about if I need it longer! :unknown:
 

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You're welcome Ctuinstra. I used 3/8" hose; but our resident hydraulics guru Kennyd says 1/4" is more than adequate for a Top-n-Tilt setup. I used this cylinder from Surplus Center Surplus Center - 2X11X1.18 CAT I HYD DA TOP LINK CYL and I could have rotated the check valve if need be; but chose not to. I chose this cylinder as it came the closest to the manual top-link's minimum and maximum lengths.


Surplus Center's shorter cylinder http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=&item=9-7682-08
 
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