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Discussion Starter #1
My impending drain line installation will need some protection from my truck towing a heavy boat to the shop.

I was planning on installing 4" schedule 40 perforated pipe with some side channels. I will need to drive my truck over this line in two places. Heavy diesel truck with heavier boat.

Have you any ideas on how to protect the drain line?

I was planning on sand in the bottom, with cloth and river rock. The area turns into mush now, so I need to carry that water to a ditch to access my shop. Minimal dirt over clay. Surface channeling is not an option (faux stream).

Any help will be appreciated. I have a big ditch witch reserved for June 27.

Randy



Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
 

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If you are running that pipe 2' or more deep I wouldn't worry about it. The weight of anything going over the pipe gets disbursed by the soil itself. The deeper you bury, the less weight the pipe sees.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I could do a couple sticks of solid schedule 80. The depth will be controlled by the needed drop. I will measure the drop tomorrow to see how deep I need to be.

Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
 

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Are you planning on a french drain arrangement or are you installing a drain line to carry away water from a downspout? You indicated you are thinking about perforated pipe so I assuming a french drain arrangement.

If installing a french drain, depending on how wet the area is, you will want a ditch about 18" to 2' deep. The wetter the area is, the deeper your ditch should be. Put a 3" layer in the bottom, then lay your pipe, then cover with 2B stone, cover stone with geotex and then cover with 6" of topsoil. If you are going this deep with the pipe, the kind of pipe you use is less important.

Concerning what pipe to use. With 12" - 15" of cover, you could use SDR35 gasketed (I like this stuff) or schedule 40 perforated under the area you are going to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I'm planning a french drain, 250' plus to ditch, 2 x 20' side branches into the 250 line.

So for a fair flow, how much should I drop in every 50'?

Oh, after web research, divide the distance by 8 to get the drop. Not gonna happen. I think I have 2.5' over 250'. Living in the flatlands.

First project like this. Wish I'd added a backhoe. But at $240 per day for a nice rider DitchWitch I'll pay per day.

Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
 

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Why worry with pipe? Just filling 1 foot deep trench with clean rock would be plenty to filter the water away.
I would use railroad rock in the traffic area.
 

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I'm planning a french drain, 250' plus to ditch, 2 x 20' side branches into the 250 line.

So for a fair flow, how much should I drop in every 50'?

Oh, after web research, divide the distance by 8 to get the drop. Not gonna happen. I think I have 2.5' over 250'. Living in the flatlands.

First project like this. Wish I'd added a backhoe. But at $240 per day for a nice rider DitchWitch I'll pay per day.

Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
Yes, for french drains it is generally recommended the minimum pipe slope is 1/8" per foot. As you said, in your 250' run, that would be a minimum of about 2-1/2' of drop.

Essentially, you create the required slope by digging the trench the appropriate depth and taper and then create the fine tuned taper by grading the layer of stone in the bottom of the trench to match the required taper.

If you use 4" pipe, with about 3" of 2B stone below the pipe, 12" of 2B stone over the pipe and 4" of top soil, you will start your trench at about 24" deep. This would make the end of your trench about 4 - 1/2' deep. Trying to run water downhill in a 250' long trench takes taper. As you know, water will not run uphill.

I know you say you are in "flat land" but the only way to know for sure is to shoot your grade before you start.

You need one of these. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=laser+transit&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=228949669665&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17045090328808545259&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006627&hvtargid=kwd-303975266601&ref=pd_sl_7fnw0j038n_e_p37A A tripod with a rotary laser mounted to it along with a grade post and audible receiver. Set up and shoot the existing grade to determine the existing slope, if any, then you know how much taper you have now and how much you will need.

The first thing to determine is, what is the elevation at the beginning end of the drain line and what is the elevation of the drainage ditch. This will show you it you have enough taper to even start this project.

If you do not have enough taper, you may consider a dry well. You would create the french drain system in the area that is wet, then direct this pipe into the dry well. This may be a better solution than trying to carry water 250' though a pipe.

When I installed my drainage system, I buried a 3' diameter x 16' long ADS perforated drain pipe in a pit lined with number 4 rock. My main drain line runs into the top of the underground drain pipe. I run all of my spoutings and driveway drains into this underground drainage pit. The capacity of my pit is about 1000 gallons. Now, this is extreme compared to what you need, although, the concept will most likely work.

Here are some links that show dry wells and how to install.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMrPnyz6rdI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WieGD8Zvo5A

https://www.amazon.com/NDS-FWAS24-28-75-Inch-Flo-Well-Leaching/dp/B000BO58CU/ref=asc_df_B000BO58CU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198111101494&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8820375337346060671&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006627&hvtargid=pla-351348147297&psc=1

https://www.ndspro.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Where I live I would need a pump on any drywell.

We spoke to the county inspector and my only option is to put some water in the county ditch.

The only reason the builders were allowed a drain field for septic was the installation of a two stage system with pumps. So the septic field is under pressure when it pumps effluent. I still am amazed it passed any perc test.

Thanks for the assistance. It makes sense. I'm using the hard pipe so I can more easily measure the slope. It would be more difficult with the corrugated flex pipe.

I'll look at renting a visible laser system tomorrow. The line level is not cutting it.

Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A winter drone photo to show where the issue is located.

The blue areas are standing water in winter. A few trees. Septic line in purple. Right side has water, electric & cable.

The shop will be off to the right, off the boat. 40 x 60' with long side toward road. You can see the county ditch, partially covered so my drain line must go between the trees to hit the open ditch.

Fun. Rained heavy today so I'll rent the laser level tomorrow.

Wish me luck.


Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It is starting to look like a project. Tomorrow I'll go buy rock, tamp the dirt in the trench and take final laser readings.

Thanks for the advice on the laser level, it is well worth the rental funds for my peace of mind.

The first ground engagement of the trencher was nerve racking. The trencher dropped off the arm, held by the hydraulic lines. The pins had not set in the DW mount plate. I called and had a service guy come out.

The rental of the Ditch Witch SK800 was great once the service guy got the Toro trencher to mount. He had to grind off an inch of steel to get it on. The Toro had a big pin that must guide it but was blocking the frame of the DW. My rental time started after he got it mounted. He told me they never had that issue. Whatever. It made the digging go fast.

I did find some surprises left by the prior owner. A block of cement, small pipes to no where. That slowed me down having to dig those out. I needed a large pry tool but only had a shovel. Bought a 42" pry tool for the next project!



Here is the lay of the project. I hope the panorama photo comes out. I've never tried to post one.

And then my poor mans forks to carry pipe.


Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
 

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Very nice!

Lots of drain line digging/planning going on right now it seems!
Ive got a bit of my own, but not going to tackle it until I get some trees down and get the rest of my yard under control.
Probably a next year project, but Im following all these threads with great interest. Never too early to get a good plan down on paper!
 
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