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Looking for some other options for weed control in my lawn. NW OH, I have a little over 2 acres to keep looking pretty. Wet, Heavy clay, so the grass grows pretty well normally. My lawn is in pretty good shape, and I'm pretty good about mowing frequently, and mowing at 3 inches, and regularly fertilize. I have issues with dandelions primarily due to a neighbor that doesn't care about his, but there are problem places with white and yellow clover as well. What are you using for weed control?

In the past I've used Trimec and other 2,4, D type products, and they've performed well. I'd like to find something that's potentially a little safer and better for the environment if possible. My kids play in the yard, and due to our water table we have a pretty shallow well. Maybe 2 4D causes cancer, maybe it doesn't, but if there's something better I want to make the switch. Suggestions? Thanks.
 

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Thanks for starting this thread. I'm in Nebraska, and have 3 acres. Lots and lots of dandelions this spring, and wife wants them gone.

I've been mowing at 2.5" so far. Curious to see what suggestions come on this thread...

Will be following.
 

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Thanks for starting this thread. I'm in Nebraska, and have 3 acres. Lots and lots of dandelions this spring, and wife wants them gone.

I've been mowing at 2.5" so far. Curious to see what suggestions come on this thread...

Will be following.
If you want the spring dandelions gone, hit them hard in the fall. Shoot for a broadleaf application in September/October before you get a killing frost, you may have a few escape the next spring, but you will not have that burst of dandelions first thing in the spring. The bonus is that in the fall, more of the desirable plants are going dormant or dying (ornamental broadleaf plants) so off target problems are minimized.
 

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If you want the spring dandelions gone, hit them hard in the fall. Shoot for a broadleaf application in September/October before you get a killing frost, you may have a few escape the next spring, but you will not have that burst of dandelions first thing in the spring. The bonus is that in the fall, more of the desirable plants are going dormant or dying (ornamental broadleaf plants) so off target problems are minimized.

Good advice for treating in the Fall, but it sounds like he has problems right now.

(I will address this answer for a homeowner rather than an applicator)

Weeds need to be sprayed when they are actively growing. The Ortho Dial sprayer and a hose work great and pre mix at the correct rate so calibration is not an issue.
Ortho Dial N Spray Hose End Sprayer - Ortho

For broadleaf weed control a 3 way herbicide will do OK. There are much better products but Ortho Weed B Gone isn't bad and is available everywhere. I see this new formulation also has a little quincloric in it which will kill crabgrass that has just sprouted.
Weed Killer Plus Crabgrass Control-Weed B Gon-Ortho

Next: Set your mowers up, 3.5" is good, 4" is better. It won't need near the care of water if you just raise your mower.

For fertilizer, look for good fertilizer now cheap. Expensive does not mean good. What you want is fertilizer that releases over a long period of time. Not only is this good, it minimizes leaching and volatilization. Middle of the road fertilizer will have two ways to slow release. SCU, sulphur coated urea which is crap. Much better is PCSCU, poly coated sulphur coated urea which is much better. High end stuff I use is 100% RxN which is stablized nitrogen. There are no coatings and it releases over 8 weeks. Really good stuff.

Here are a few pics of my yard:











 

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Oops, forgot this loads pics differently.
 

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My mower(s) are always set much higher than 2.5",,
easily, I cut at 3.5" or even 4" depending on the machine,,

Look at the front right, or left rear gauge wheel,, those wheels are 9" high, and sitting in fresh cut grass



The right rear is being held up in the air because the earth is not flat in that area,,,

If I mow any lower, the grass variety I grow looses to the weeds.

Mow high, the grass can win.

That Woods mower is set at the maximum height the spacers can be adjusted to,,,
 

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For broadleaf weed control a 3 way herbicide will do OK. There are much better products but Ortho Weed B Gone isn't bad and is available everywhere.

For fertilizer, look for good fertilizer now cheap. Expensive does not mean good. What you want is fertilizer that releases over a long period of time. Not only is this good, it minimizes leaching and volatilization. Middle of the road fertilizer will have two ways to slow release. SCU, sulphur coated urea which is crap. Much better is PCSCU, poly coated sulphur coated urea which is much better. High end stuff I use is 100% RxN which is stablized nitrogen. There are no coatings and it releases over 8 weeks. Really good stuff.
I'm a big fan of both Weed B Gone and urea also.
 

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Thanks for the explanation FirewoodBandit. :good2:

For me, I'll just raise up the mower deck. If I killed the weeds, I would have a lot of bare dirt.

At some point I need to start working on "the lawn". Right now I am just focusing on drainage and cleaning up the place.

BTW, what are the cups hanging in your trees for?
 

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Thanks for the explanation FirewoodBandit. :good2:

For me, I'll just raise up the mower deck. If I killed the weeds, I would have a lot of bare dirt.

At some point I need to start working on "the lawn". Right now I am just focusing on drainage and cleaning up the place.

BTW, what are the cups hanging in your trees for?

Two part answer:

For better looking lawns, just killing weeds helps a ton, with the weeds gone grass will grow much better due to less competition for water and nutrients. Mowing higher makes the grass healthier.

The apple trees.

These pics are 3 years old. I have planted a LOT more trees, now numbering 680 and those are on a trellis. The cups are filled with concrete and are used to bend branches to a more desirable 60 degree branch angle which is much stronger and produces more fruit.

The new trellised trees: (These are older too, I will take more pics when they start blooming, they are much bigger now) The trees with the pink blossoms are crabapples, they are used for pollination.
 

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For that much lawn, I would suggest a sprayer of some kind. I use a small 3 point boom sprayer. There are many options that attach to or tow behind a tractor. Or if you want the exercise, you can get a backpack sprayer and walk with the wand.

If you have already or are planning to seed new grass (overseeding, patching, etc), you have to avoid using products that prevent weeds!! Preemergent weed control will also prevent your new grass from germinating. And it generally lasts for 3-6 months in the soil. So if you have or are planning to seed grass, you will need to stick with postemergent control killing only what is growing.

For postemergent killing of weeds, I use Trimec 992 and Quinclorac. Neither of these have preemergent effects. They do not prevent future weeds, but also don't prevent new grass from germinating.

Trimec 992 will take care of all your typical lawn weeds including dandelions and clover. It will not kill turf grass or crabgrass. It will not harm new grass seed or prevent new grass from germinating, so it doesn't impede seeding. It also doesn't prevent new weeds from sprouting either. It kills weeds that currently growing. Spay at 1oz per 1000sqft. Trimec 992 Broadleaf Herbicide

Quinclorac 75DF will kill the crabcrass. It will not kill the rest of the weeds or the turfgrass. It will not harm seeds or prevent new grass from germinating. It only kills crabgrass that is currently growing. Spray at .35oz per 1000sqft So this is typically mixed into the tank with Trimec for complete control of all the undesirables. Quinclorac 75 DF Herbicide


If you are not seeding new grass, then you can use weed prevention too. Dimension (Dithiopyr) is pretty much the best for this job. It is often what's mixed with fertilizer advertised as containing weed prevention. Personally I would put it down separately since weed control and fertilizer needs are not always the same or in sync. You can get liquid dimension for a sprayer (Dimension 2EW Pre-Emergent Herbicide | Fast, Free Shipping) or dry for a typical spreader.
 

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The cups are filled with concrete and are used to bend branches to a more desirable 60 degree branch angle which is much stronger and produces more fruit.
What??? Huh???? Wow!

I've got a lot to learn on taking care of my apple trees.....
 

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What??? Huh???? Wow!

I've got a lot to learn on taking care of my apple trees.....
The trellis trees are tied down to the horizontal wire with a tying machine that uses plastic tape and staple. Then we shoot for a 90 degree angle but care has to be used and watch for vertical growth which needs to be removed. Look at the angle on the trellis trees.

If you haven't seen this post and you are interested in apples, take a look it was the rejuvenation of my 27 year old orchard.
Any apple growers out there?
 

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Sorry to hijack this thread, but Bandit, that is fantastic! Is there a book or other information that you learned this from? Very inspirational! :bigthumb:
 

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I guess after reading through "Any apple growers out there?" I should ask, "Did you write a book on this?":good2:
 

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Drive XLR8 works well on broadleaves and crabgrass.
However, you must be careful not to blow grass clippings into any gardens/flower beds, and you can't use it for compost either, as there is a residual.

If you want to not use chemicals, then get on your knees and start pulling.
 

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I guess after reading through "Any apple growers out there?" I should ask, "Did you write a book on this?":good2:
No book, guess I would call myself a "serious hobbyists". Look at the video in the threads from Dr. Terence Robinson. Very informative.:bigthumb:
 

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This thread reminds me of an incident a few years ago.
I had 24D in a jug, and sprayed our yard and lot across the street. In the following days the lawns looked a little worse each day. Thenit hit me like a ton of bricks what I had in that jug.... RoundUp.
Ohhhhhhh Noooooooo!

The good news, my wife took it like a champ & understood, and I had very little mowing to do that summer!
Very interesting to learn how many people actually make that same mistake.
 

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This thread reminds me of an incident a few years ago.
I had 24D in a jug, and sprayed our yard and lot across the street. In the following days the lawns looked a little worse each day. Thenit hit me like a ton of bricks what I had in that jug.... RoundUp.
Ohhhhhhh Noooooooo!

The good news, my wife took it like a champ & understood, and I had very little mowing to do that summer!
Very interesting to learn how many people actually make that same mistake.

Yes it is a common mistake. Along the same line, over applying is very common too that will have disastrous results. What I find amusing is "zebra stripes" caused by not applying fertilizer evenly.
 
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