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I'm cutting down the height of my ROPS and need to mock it up on the tractor with a few tack welds. The last time I've welded on a vehicle it had points and condenser. I wonder if unhooking the ground from the battery really will do anything to protect the electronics as they are grounded the the frame already. I plan on placing the ground clap frm my Mig welder as close to the work area as possible since the path of least resistance would favor not running around the tractor.
I'm probably opening a can of worms up but Googling this didn't really answer my question and the answers from some of the sites had me laughing.
 

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Probly wouldn't hurt to unhook the battery..
 

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I would like to see pictures during the process I also want to shorten my rops How much are you cutting out? Thanks
 

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It's your neck.

I see lots of posts about modifying ROPS. One or two cautions for those considering cutting, welding, drilling or otherwise modifying. The factory ROPS are designed to do one thing- save your life. I believe they even have to prove that the design and strength are adequate to protect the operator when the operator is belted into the seat. You can surely modify the ROPS but do you have the design and metallurgy chops to make sure you haven't compromised the integrity? The least worry is whether your heirs can successfully sue JD if something happens and the answer is no. Modifying the ROPS will pretty much guarantee JD has a defense.

It's up to you but I would suggest that before you cut, weld or change a ROPS that at least you get a pretty good engineer to take a look at what you are doing. It's your neck, literally.

Treefarmer
 

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When I bought the 1026r several years ago BIL ,FIL and I wondered how to shorten the ROPS. After much thought, we took the pins out and removed the top part of the ROP. Cut out about a 6 or 8" section , one of us had bought thick wall square tubing that would fit inside the ROPS. After tacking the insert the cut off bottom section slid the top part down over finished welding. We fill the section we worked on is as strong if not stronger than factory .
All the cutting and welding took place off the tractor. When I bought the 1025r ,, took the top section off new ,installed one from 1026 onto the 1025.
:bigthumb:
 

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While I'd be inclined to disconnect the battery for the sake of it, I wouldn't be scared to weld on the tractor. I've welded, many times, directly on automobiles, with no issue. I've also welded on our skid steer, my old B7100, dad's 5065e, and his old NH3930. No issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
TreeFarmer.. I understand cutting the ROPS negates the intended designed safety of the tractor. However, I worked part time as a farmer for many years on tractors that never had ROPS and didn't have any issues. ROPS are on there to appease the attorney happy owners that hurt themselves doing something the device wasn't made for. I had a stress engineer review the design currently being used and in a perfect roll over it will work with some deformities to the structure but in other less then desirable cases it would fold over and fail. It actual needs to be cross braced and than it couldn't be folded down.
I bought a completely new ROPS kit (only way JD sells them) so IF I were to sell the tractor all I do is pull four pins and reinstall the factory height piece back on. No harm no foul.
I take your concern and others seriously but feel my end design will be stronger and safer and able to drive into my garage without folding it down. This modification is for me and not for anyone else.

I'd like to see a straw poll done as to how many owners actually take the time to put them up. Based on the five tractors in my area (Green, Orange and Red) I'm the only one that routinely puts it up and hit the garage door :banghead:
 

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TreeFarmer.. I understand cutting the ROPS negates the intended designed safety of the tractor. However, I worked part time as a farmer for many years on tractors that never had ROPS and didn't have any issues. ROPS are on there to appease the attorney happy owners that hurt themselves doing something the device wasn't made for. I had a stress engineer review the design currently being used and in a perfect roll over it will work with some deformities to the structure but in other less then desirable cases it would fold over and fail. It actual needs to be cross braced and than it couldn't be folded down.
I bought a completely new ROPS kit (only way JD sells them) so IF I were to sell the tractor all I do is pull four pins and reinstall the factory height piece back on. No harm no foul.
I take your concern and others seriously but feel my end design will be stronger and safer and able to drive into my garage without folding it down. This modification is for me and not for anyone else.

I'd like to see a straw poll done as to how many owners actually take the time to put them up. Based on the five tractors in my area (Green, Orange and Red) I'm the only one that routinely puts it up and hit the garage door :banghead:
For your straw poll....


Mine only goes down to clear obstacles other than that its up. I'm not overly tall but if I took more than 4 or so inches out my head would hit the ground instead of the ROPS. I fully understand why people are doing this and I applaud the decision to have a Factory height one available if sold.

:bigthumb:
 

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Foggy

To answer your question, as I just modified my cross over tube and posted yesterday, I did some welding on the tractor without disconnecting anything and I have no problems. My post title is 2032R ROPS mod cut and weld.

Good luck with your mod. :greentractorride:J-D Don
 

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It is your choice but mine stays up

TreeFarmer.. I understand cutting the ROPS negates the intended designed safety of the tractor. However, I worked part time as a farmer for many years on tractors that never had ROPS and didn't have any issues. ROPS are on there to appease the attorney happy owners that hurt themselves doing something the device wasn't made for. I had a stress engineer review the design currently being used and in a perfect roll over it will work with some deformities to the structure but in other less then desirable cases it would fold over and fail. It actual needs to be cross braced and than it couldn't be folded down.
I bought a completely new ROPS kit (only way JD sells them) so IF I were to sell the tractor all I do is pull four pins and reinstall the factory height piece back on. No harm no foul.
I take your concern and others seriously but feel my end design will be stronger and safer and able to drive into my garage without folding it down. This modification is for me and not for anyone else.

I'd like to see a straw poll done as to how many owners actually take the time to put them up. Based on the five tractors in my area (Green, Orange and Red) I'm the only one that routinely puts it up and hit the garage door :banghead
:
LOL, none of our tractors have fold able rops so I'm in the always up category. If any of them fold, something big time bad has gone wrong.

Having a rops you will use is certainly better than one that isn't used because it won't clear a door.

I too have used tractors without a ROPS. I don't think we had any with a ROPS or cab until about 1982. However, this article has some sobering data- Death on the Farm - Modern Farmer .

About 125 ag tractor related deaths a year with the majority from roll overs. I suspect many homeowner deaths are not included. Some of the CUTs and SCUTs are far more unstable then the larger tractors, particularly with loaders. I know my 790 is a lot more squirrely than our larger farm tractors- it's just a function of a shorter, narrower wheel base.

Your design and fabrication may very well be as strong as the original. I hope so and hope you never need to find out. In any case, if it's up and in place there's more protection than if it's folded behind you.

Treefarmer
 

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When my dealer told me that my ROPS would have to be in a non-modified/factory stock condition should I decide to ever change it, and having found that the top can't be bought separately, I chose to make a new top section. I have a friend who owns a metal fab business. He cut me 4 plates to match the factory plates, so that the new top folds just like the factory ROPS. The new top is app 3" shorter than factory...just enough to clear my garage doors yet still high enough to provide decent protection. My property is fairly flat so I have little chance of rollover and the bar is normally folded down during mowing season.



 

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ROPS Straw Pole

I'd like to see a straw poll done as to how many owners actually take the time to put them up. Based on the five tractors in my area (Green, Orange and Red) I'm the only one that routinely puts it up and hit the garage door :banghead:
My two cents: The only time I put mine up is when I'm using the bucket or forks for heavy jobs (dirt, rock, etc.) or lifting higher than normal. And every time I put it up, I try to fit it in the shed that way, and every time, it won't. The other 95% of run time is mowing around trees, so I can't use it then. I like your approach of having a "clean" (untouched) replacement in case you want to sell/trade someday. You have my support.
 

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OldmanX, nice job on the ROPS, and nice job on the pics!
I noticed you have a 3rd SCV - is that the JD kit? How did that install go?
Thanks!
That is the JD 3rd SCV...use it for my SB1164 blower chute rotation and for a hydraulic dump trailer. I cheated on the install...had the dealer do it at the same time they were reassembling my tractor after it's warranty transmission housing replacement 2 winters ago.
 

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When my dealer told me that my ROPS would have to be in a non-modified/factory stock condition should I decide to ever change it, and having found that the top can't be bought separately, I chose to make a new top section. I have a friend who owns a metal fab business. He cut me 4 plates to match the factory plates, so that the new top folds just like the factory ROPS



What size is the tubing you used. I like it a lot. Looks great.
 

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TreeFarmer.. I understand cutting the ROPS negates the intended designed safety of the tractor. However, I worked part time as a farmer for many years on tractors that never had ROPS and didn't have any issues. ROPS are on there to appease the attorney happy owners that hurt themselves doing something the device wasn't made for. I had a stress engineer review the design currently being used and in a perfect roll over it will work with some deformities to the structure but in other less then desirable cases it would fold over and fail. It actual needs to be cross braced and than it couldn't be folded down.
I bought a completely new ROPS kit (only way JD sells them) so IF I were to sell the tractor all I do is pull four pins and reinstall the factory height piece back on. No harm no foul.
I take your concern and others seriously but feel my end design will be stronger and safer and able to drive into my garage without folding it down. This modification is for me and not for anyone else.

I'd like to see a straw poll done as to how many owners actually take the time to put them up. Based on the five tractors in my area (Green, Orange and Red) I'm the only one that routinely puts it up and hit the garage door :banghead:
Mine have never been down while the tractor is in operation.
 

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TreeFarmer.. I understand cutting the ROPS negates the intended designed safety of the tractor. However, I worked part time as a farmer for many years on tractors that never had ROPS and didn't have any issues. ROPS are on there to appease the attorney happy owners that hurt themselves doing something the device wasn't made for. I had a stress engineer review the design currently being used and in a perfect roll over it will work with some deformities to the structure but in other less then desirable cases it would fold over and fail. It actual needs to be cross braced and than it couldn't be folded down.
I bought a completely new ROPS kit (only way JD sells them) so IF I were to sell the tractor all I do is pull four pins and reinstall the factory height piece back on. No harm no foul.
I take your concern and others seriously but feel my end design will be stronger and safer and able to drive into my garage without folding it down. This modification is for me and not for anyone else.

I'd like to see a straw poll done as to how many owners actually take the time to put them up. Based on the five tractors in my area (Green, Orange and Red) I'm the only one that routinely puts it up and hit the garage door :banghead:
You are not the only one to hit the garage door. I did it at my old place. Thankfully my new place allows me to leave it up. If I go up in size in tractors though, I will be in trouble.

Cut & Re-weld as you see fit. The only problem is if you ever traded it in, the JD dealer would take a dim view if the sales guy noticed it. Sounds like you have that problem mitigated with another ROPS. As I am sure you know the welds will probably make it stronger since you are adding metal to it. Someone else just did this and posted pictures, I would search. I think it was a 1 series too.

The ROPS is a risk mitigation tool, not and end all be all. It still takes an operator that knows what they are doing. At my old place I left mine down for mowing or fork lift work on my flat driveway. Here at my new place since it is all rough terrain, I leave it up since my SCUT is so tippy.
 

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just throwing this out there, but... to me, the concern shouldn't be the welds. yeah, it'll be stronger than the metal.. my concern is this. JD's engineers said it should be that height for a reason. what safety are you losing, changing the height? at that point, it may be easier to just not have the upper portion of the ROPS, if it doesn't protect you...
 
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