[coaltrain]

As far as a quick band-aid fix -

I have a spring and a jet pump. Over time some sediment gets into the system. Also my pump is really old.

About every 2-3 months I have to clean the pressure switch. It gets gunk built up in it. There is a little bladder in the switch.

Easy enough to clean - remove the switch and rinse it out at the water port. Might need a little tool to help but don’t use something like a piece of wire so you don’t puncture the bladder.

This should keep your pump working properly until you can get to the real issue.

Edit to add - gizmo posted the same time I did - his pictures tell my story also.

 

[coaltrain]

Concerned about the fiber ,,could it just be a bad filter cartridge ..:dunno:


Now the reason why pump won't shut off, clogged pressure switch. , thinking it needs replaced.

Pressure gauge probably defective (clogged) .


:dunno:

I agree - sure looks like filter media.

 

[coaltrain]

A more common way to plumb that crossover is with a tank tee. The long end srews into the bottom of the tank then you switch, gauge, etc. is installed as shown in the photo.

https://www.amazon.com/Boshart-VALV...=UTF8&qid=1521482047&sr=8-8&keywords=tank+tee

 

[coaltrain]

I understand how they have that long end of the Tank T going to the fitting at the bottom of the tank. My concern is that it will move my pressure switch from where it is now (about 2' above the floor) to floor height. That means I need another 2' of power line. Which means messing with electrical stuff or building a platform to put the 40 gallon tank on. That is why I would rather keep the pressure switch up off the floor level. I also don't want a 1/4" x 2' nipple to make the connection.

I didn’t say that this is the say you should do it - just a common way pressure tanks are plumbed.

 

[coaltrain]

yes-i agree on adjusting the switch springs. but if his gauge is off a bit. at our old house with our old well we ran into that problem too.

My well pump is really old. I’ve had to adjust the pressure switch a few times as it won’t build enough pressure. Simply done by turning the high pressure nut. I think I am down to 20/40 psi by now.....

 

[coaltrain]

Average pump life today is ~15 years.

The pump was really old when we bought the house 20 years ago. The bearing was screaming then and still is.

I don't replace things that still work - waste of money.

 

[coaltrain]

Do you change or have your vehicle engine oil changed before or after the engine seizes up?
Could cost double or more if there is 2 feet of snow on the ground or it's below zero outside.

A water pump is nothing like an engine - has no fluids to change or other maintance.

My pump is a jet pump which is in the basement. An hour or so with a couple wrenches and it is changed.

 

[coaltrain]

Our pump is at 150 ft, I've change it twice before myself and will do it again this time. I will change out the plastic pipe, wire and rope even though all that is also still working. So do you agree, I should change out ours during the warm weather this year before I have problems?

Well.....I don’t agree. If it ain’t broke......

But yeah - pulling a deep well pump in the winter can be tough - but I’m sure it’s done all the time.

I worked with plumbers for many years. They only pulled pumps if they needed replaced. And none of them replaced the pipe, rope, or wire unless it was visually bad. If the pump was installed correctly using a torque stop and cable guards there is no reason to believe that any of that stuff would wear.

 

[coaltrain]

Thanks for the info on that torque arrestor, I didn't know about or use one of those on the last swap out which was about 22 years ago. :slap-yourself-emoti I do remember my neighbor plumber guy showing me how to fasten the wire just above the pump to absorb the torque so it wouldn't chafe. I'd get a pic but it is about 175' down the hole. :mocking:

22 years (done the week between Christmas and New Years....it was COLD!). I didn't realize it had been that long ago......I am doomed to a failure and replacement coming up now that I know! :drama:

For the pumps I wait until a failure to replace them. Sewage and sump pumps I have a spare on hand, but not the well pump.

Both those pieces are very important.

For the torque arresstor - you would not belive the torque those pumps have. When starting, without a torque arresstor, the pump can turn 180 deg twice. Each time it does that the pipe (along with the wire and rope) are twisting. That will wear everything over time even without contacting the well casing.

The cable guides are a second important item - should be placed ever 10’. Even with a torque arrestor installed when the pump starts it will jerk the entire setup some - you don’t want anything to have a chance of contacting the well casing.