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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday a guy stopped bye and ask if I was interested in a John Deere A. Of coarse I was so today I drove out to take a look. He thinks it is a 1952 model. Its not running at this time, but the engine is loose. Last time he used it he said he had some clutch trouble so he parked it and pulled the clutch apart. He has since lost interest and just wants it to go to a good home. I made an offer which he accepted so now I need to haul it home. I'll get some pics once I get it home.
 

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Yesterday a guy stopped bye and ask if I was interested in a John Deere A. Of coarse I was so today I drove out to take a look. He thinks it is a 1952 model. Its not running at this time, but the engine is loose. Last time he used it he said he had some clutch trouble so he parked it and pulled the clutch apart. He has since lost interest and just wants it to go to a good home. I made an offer which he accepted so now I need to haul it home. I'll get some pics once I get it home.
:munch:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will be bringing it home this weekend if all goes as planned. I realize: :ttiwwp:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cjet69, when you get into that clutch and get it working correctly, there's a fellow way over here in Tennessee (see thread below) that you might be able to offer some first hand experience.

tommyhawk
Hopefully I can be of some help. I'll get a lot of pics as I go thru it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Hauled the tractor today. The PO thru in a JD plow and a tool bar cultivator. Rear tires are like brand new and worth the $400 I paid for the whole package. Now I need to check it out and see whats good and bad.

Update: I just checked the serial # and it is a 1952.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Almost forgot plow and cultivator pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That one really looks good for $400! You will probably be driving it around soon. Unusual to see a single front wheel model. What in the cathair is mounted on the rear of the tractor? I can't seem to recognize it.

tommyhawk
We'll see what it needs. I figure I will find something wrong since he tore it apart and stopped using it.

The piece on the back is a hitch built by John Deere. Not sure exactly what it is, but the cultivator tool bar hooks up to it.
 

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That one really looks good for $400! You will probably be driving it around soon. Unusual to see a single front wheel model. What in the cathair is mounted on the rear of the tractor? I can't seem to recognize it.

tommyhawk
i'm never seen either of what u commented on around here. i guess i need to get out more often:mocking::munch:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I found some info on the hitch. Its a John Deere/Yakima ABG-2000 hitch.

This article talks about it under the drawbar section. Two-Cylinder Magazine
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Checked the engine, trans, and rear axle for water. I found around 5 gallons in the trans and rear end drains. The engine oil was already drained, but the filter canister was still in so I dropped it out and found some nice creamy goo. I looked in several of the fill plug holes and everything looks nice and shiny still so I don't think the water has been it very long. I'll see if I can spend a little time looking at the clutch parts tomorrow.
 

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Our 1950 B has a drain plug and filler for the first reduction gear cover that gets 1 pint of engine oil. I believe the later A model also had this, but not sure of the refill quantity. You likely already know about that but might want to post the info for others to follow in the future.
The instructions for this were in the section describing the FRG cover replacement and to add the oil before putting the clutch fork assembly back on.
Keep the pics of progress coming. We like 'em!

tommyhawk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Checked out the clutch today. Looks like I will need a new crankshaft and clutch drive disc for starters. The drive disc must have loosened up and wore both the drive disc and crank. I guess I will get the rest of the tractor evaluated before going any further.
 

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Ouch! Yeah, I see your point in evaluating the rest of the tractor before replacing the crank. I don't know about running the engine without a clutch installed but maybe you could shim the clutch splines and put it back temporarily to run the engine and get some feel of the tranny, final drive, block, head, and cooling system condition. Just a thought.
One thing for sure, you can part it out and make money, but if that's the worst of it, a rebuilt crank could make you a nice tractor. Turned out the B (free) my son and I rebuilt would not have been even a good parts tractor once we got into it. Spent way more $ than it will ever be worth to anyone else. But it has some sentimental value to him and time spent with my son helping when he could was worth it in the end. It's just one year newer than the one my Dad had that I used for several years before we quit farming. Guess I have some sentimental attachment too.
Hope it gets better from here on! But keep us posted.

tommyhawk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ouch! Yeah, I see your point in evaluating the rest of the tractor before replacing the crank. I don't know about running the engine without a clutch installed but maybe you could shim the clutch splines and put it back temporarily to run the engine and get some feel of the tranny, final drive, block, head, and cooling system condition. Just a thought.
One thing for sure, you can part it out and make money, but if that's the worst of it, a rebuilt crank could make you a nice tractor. Turned out the B (free) my son and I rebuilt would not have been even a good parts tractor once we got into it. Spent way more $ than it will ever be worth to anyone else. But it has some sentimental value to him and time spent with my son helping when he could was worth it in the end. It's just one year newer than the one my Dad had that I used for several years before we quit farming. Guess I have some sentimental attachment too.
Hope it gets better from here on! But keep us posted.

tommyhawk
That's what I was thinking. If I can get it back together in order to run it a little I could determine if the rest of it is good enough to save.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I checked the antifreeze today and its good to +3* . Don't have to worry about it freezing now, at least not in my neck of the woods.
 

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I don't want to ruin your thread with all the challenges we had, but maybe you will get a chuckle out of this. The B radiator was full and no signs of coolant leaks. In the end, the radiator was great but the upper water pipe turned to swiss cheese after a couple days in the electrolysis tank. The cap was obviously bad as well as the filler neck. A new filler neck and cap was easy, but we had to go to a professional to get a new pipe brazed into the cast base housing. Who would think a radiator cap would rust thru? Real glad the rusty old pipe fell apart when it did. lol
Thankfully you won't have as many problems with rust.

water pipes.JPG

rusty rad. cap.JPG

tommyhawk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I don't want to ruin your thread with all the challenges we had, but maybe you will get a chuckle out of this. The B radiator was full and no signs of coolant leaks. In the end, the radiator was great but the upper water pipe turned to swiss cheese after a couple days in the electrolysis tank. The cap was obviously bad as well as the filler neck. A new filler neck and cap was easy, but we had to go to a professional to get a new pipe brazed into the cast base housing. Who would think a radiator cap would rust thru? Real glad the rusty old pipe fell apart when it did. lol
Thankfully you won't have as many problems with rust. tommyhawk
Don't worry about my thread. I welcome any input and pictures.

I've seen several of those upper water pipes in pretty bad shape. I have another JD A that I am recoring the radiator and putting a new cap and neck on.
 

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