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First Question, I have a 2016 3046R what frame on this site is it called Small, Medium, or Large frame compact tractor. 2nd Question, is there a Down Pressure Kit for my 3046R and what would the cost be, I have all 5 SCV’s. I’m 75 just bought the the tractor, am not a farmer and know basically nothing about this or any other tractor - but damn I love it.
 

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The 30XXD, E and R machines are covered under the "Large Frame" compacts here.

AFAIK, (Assuming you are talking about a 3pt down pressure kit...) Deere doesn't make a down pressure kit from anything smaller than the 4R series machines.
 

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All the forums have descriptions with the various model numbers, but as started you'd be in the LCUT class.

There is no down pressure kit available for a 3-series, you have to step up to a 4-series for that.

Why do you think you need it?


(PS, I'll move your thread)
 

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:wgtt:from MN
 

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First Question, I have a 2016 3046R what frame on this site is it called Small, Medium, or Large frame compact tractor. 2nd Question, is there a Down Pressure Kit for my 3046R and what would the cost be, I have all 5 SCV’s. I’m 75 just bought the the tractor, am not a farmer and know basically nothing about this or any other tractor - but damn I love it.
Just add weight on the implement. I use what ever is handy from suitcase weights to an engine block. Does your tractor have a draft control?
 

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This member sent me a message....

He's looking for a down pressure kit ..basicly for moving trailers around with His new cabbed tractor.

Wants the down pressure to unhook the trailer. I'm guessing He's on flat ground and trailers are tounge heavy.

Apparently He was told that NO kit is avl.for His tractor by Fit rite...I can only guess there was some miscommunication somehow as it looks like they offer one.

Is there some reason NO One would build a T&T kit for His 3xxx series cabbed tractor?

I see them on 1 series....So whats the dealiO..?

:munch:
 

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This member sent me a message....

He's looking for a down pressure kit ..basicly for moving trailers around with His new cabbed tractor.

Wants the down pressure to unhook the trailer. I'm guessing He's on flat ground and trailers are tounge heavy.

Apparently He was told that NO kit is avl.for His tractor by Fit rite...I can only guess there was some miscommunication somehow as it looks like they offer one.

Is there some reason NO One would build a T&T kit for His 3xxx series cabbed tractor?

I see them on 1 series....So whats the dealiO..?

:munch:
A TnT (Top and Tilt) kit does not provide down pressure to the 3PH (three point hitch). Yes there are indeed TnT kits for his cabbed 3-series, FiteRite and JD both have them as well ans some other companies maybe, but they are not what the OP had asked for.

He PM'd me too...and I asked him why he is not replying to this threads so we can help him.
 
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I guess I did not know there was a Individual actual down pressure kit...I learn everyday.

Seems that the T&T would serve His purpose.....

And yes I pointed Him in your direction to try and get Him going..:cheers:
 

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I guess I did not know there was a Individual actual down pressure kit...I learn everyday.
Watch this video, you can see the extra cylinders use to provide the down pressure.

What the OP needs to do is add more weight to his hitch if the ball is not popping out of the hitches easily.


 

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One trick for moving trailers with a ball type hitch is to use a smaller ball on the tractor than the trailer hitch. I use a 1 7/8" ball to move my small trailer and the larger ones - works great.
 

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But man that could be bad if you’re on some hilly terrain and that sucker pops off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have tried the hydraulics place that was suggested. They won’t make one for the 3046R because JD doesn’t offer one and recommends not having one on my tractor. Using an 1-78” ball in the 2” and 2-516” hitch will work, but not for the 1-7/8” hitches. I will try adding weight to the 3 point. Good suggestion, that should work. Yes, I am on flat level ground only moving trailers a short distance and moving slowly. No real chance of the hitch bouncing off the ball. All you guys and your tips, suggestions and conversations have been much appreciated. As an aside I’m not to lazy to get out of the cab. Physically it is a problem. I need both knees and both hips replaced. But that really wouldn’t do any good as my breathing (bad COPD) only allows me to walk at most a block or less without stopping to breath. This tractor (thanks to my wife) is just a toy to enjoy using (playing with). I don’t in reality have any real use for it that between her and I couldn’t be done by hand. It does save a lot of heavy lifting or carrying, mainly by her. Love using the green machine and am learning more about it slowly. LOL - There are still buttons to be pushed that I don’t know how to use or yet understand what they are used for. Enjoy your green while you can, in time it gets harder and harder. I’ll enjoy it as long as I can then enjoy the memories. Old age the Golden life. Spend your gold and get a couple more years. Thumbs up to all of you.
 

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But man that could be bad if you’re on some hilly terrain and that sucker pops off.
Actually using a smaller trailer ball to move a trailer works really well, I can have the ball at really weird angles to the hitch and there’s plenty of tongue weight to keep it together. I’ve moved trailers like this for 20 years without any problems.
 
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As long as everything is good, I like this method. But as soon as you have little to no tongue weight and some hilly terrain, I’m out. Then it becomes a recipe for disaster.

Just my $.00000000002
 

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As long as everything is good, I like this method. But as soon as you have little to no tongue weight and some hilly terrain, I’m out. Then it becomes a recipe for disaster.

Just my $.00000000002
Roger that. I would never move a trailer with a smaller ball unless it was empty - it’s all about tongue weight. I’ve moved trailers with the safety chains hooked on the cutting edge of a bucket, that can go really weird if you aren’t on completely level ground. Don’t like to do that but sometimes I have a lazy attack. :laugh:
 
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As long as everything is good, I like this method. But as soon as you have little to no tongue weight and some hilly terrain, I’m out. Then it becomes a recipe for disaster.

Just my $.00000000002
I've been moving trailers for decades usually with a 1 7/8's ball without incident but if i have to move one on a hill i use the proper ball and lock it down. Never lost one. I blew a hole in one of the forks on my fork lift so i could insert a ball to move trailers on occasion. Keep an extra 1 7/8's ball behind the seat
 
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