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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Looking through my 2016 x758's owner's manual for maintenance requirements. I see that in the service interval section it says to change the engine coolant every 2000 hours or 2 years (whichever comes first). So I figured it was time for me to change mine (tractor is 2.5 years old). Then I looked in the service procedure section for a how-to and see that it says:

Coolant Drain Intervals

Drain and flush the cooling system and refill with fresh coolant at the indicated interval, which varies with the coolant used.

When Cool-Gard™ II or Cool-Gard™ II PG is used, the drain interval is 6 yr. or 6000 operating hours.

If a coolant other than Cool-Gard™ II or Cool-Gard™ II PG is used, reduce the drain interval to 2 yr. or 2000 operating hours.
So, if Deere put Cool-Gard II in the engine when new I wouldn't have to change it until 6 years passes. But if they used something else then I need to change now.

Any idea what Deere uses at the factory? It's only 3 qts total in the system so I may just change it anyway, but I'd like to know my options...

Thanks,
Rob

* As a side note, the service section doesn't actually have a how-to. I'm going to assume it is fairly easy but if anyone has actual directions on how to drain the coolant I'd appreciate you sharing them.
 

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This may not be the answer you are looking for. It's my opinion. Go to a dealer & if he has the Deere product on the shelf, read the label. It might give you a hint on chemical interactions. What I mean is anti freeze is antifreeze for the most part. But you want to use one that will not harm metals like aluminum. Also if you can find anti freeze test strips at your local auto parts store, you may want to use one to test the acidity of your coolant. Assuming the anti freeze is giving you the protection you want or need, the only other reasons to change it would be if it has become acidic, or if there is rust in the stuff. Acidic anti freeze is not a good thing.

Most people change anti freeze in engines when it is totally unnecessary to do so. I've had coolant in the same engines for several years & it has had no bad issues. But you need to use test strips. There's nothing sacred about JD fluids in my opinion, other than their high price & an honest JD counter person will tell you the same thing.
 

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So, if Deere put Cool-Gard II in the engine when new I wouldn't have to change it until 6 years passes. But if they used something else then I need to change now.

Any idea what Deere uses at the factory? It's only 3 qts total in the system so I may just change it anyway, but I'd like to know my options...
Pretty sure JD uses CG II at the factory. I change it every 2 years regardless. I mean, it takes less than a gallon so what is the big deal? There is no negative to changing it more often. I see the extended life features are more for the big iron where it might need many gallons of fluid. On those machines you want to extended the oil and coolant maintenance intervals all you can as it is money saved. But for a gallon? Nah. Besides, more frequent fluid changes will cut down on the need to do a flush as the liquid never gets funky.

* As a side note, the service section doesn't actually have a how-to. I'm going to assume it is fairly easy but if anyone has actual directions on how to drain the coolant I'd appreciate you sharing them.
I have a different tractor but the procedure is typically the same. You should have a petcock near the bottom of the radiator. Remove the radiator cap and then open the petcock to drain. I will usually attach a section of rubber tubing to direct the old coolant into a container. I also MEASURE the amount of coolant that I remove so that I can put the same amount back in. This minimizes playing games with air bubbles and wondering when you have it full. I usually fill to the top, run the engine until it goes down, refill, run engine, etc. Eventually you will get all the air out. This is where knowing exactly how much you removed comes in handy.

I also remove the overflow bottle, pour out the old fluid and rinse the bottle out. Once the radiator is all happy with the level I will refill the overflow bottle.

Just remember, if using the concentrate be sure to use distilled water. Pre-mixed can be poured in as-is.

[EDIT: looking at the parts illustration for the X758 radiator they are not showing a petcock but they do show a rubber tube extending from the bottom]

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I know replacing it early is not a bad thing (well, except for having to dispose of the old stuff, and the cost, and the time to do it) but my point is that if the stuff in there is good enough for more than 2 years why not keep it? Just like long-life spark plugs. It may not 'hurt' to replace them every 30,000 miles but if they will function for 90,000 why bother with the cost and hassle?

This wasn't meant to be a "should I do it" thread. I was looking for info on what Deere put in for coolant at the factory and I would make my own decision behind the scenes so I didn't start an 'oil debate' type thread.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
jgayman - Thanks for the info on the change process and the possible drain point on the x758.

Rob
 

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Chances are your coolant in the machine if its a nice yellow color is the JD cool-guard II. I don't see JD factory filling their machines with anything less than that.

The online manual for your machine says to change engine coolant every 2 years or 1000 hours of service. The online manual is likely an older revision than the manual that cam with your tractor.

They also have a page to show how to check/drain/fill the system.

At my dealer a 1 gallon bottle of pre-mixed cool-guard II cost about $12. This is on par with any standard long life automotive engine coolant. So I can't say as though there is any significant JD mark-up here.

One thing to note about any engine coolant is that not all brands are compatible with each other or with each engine. It really is best not to mix different engine coolant brands as some brands will chemically react with each other and can cause rapid corrosion to internal engine components.

So for about 12 bucks every two years if you want to change your coolant go for it. If you run longer on the factory filled coolant you will most likely be just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Chances are your coolant in the machine if its a nice yellow color is the JD cool-guard II. I don't see JD factory filling their machines with anything less than that.

The online manual for your machine says to change engine coolant every 2 years or 1000 hours of service. The online manual is likely an older revision than the manual that cam with your tractor.

They also have a page to show how to check/drain/fill the system.

At my dealer a 1 gallon bottle of pre-mixed cool-guard II cost about $12. This is on par with any standard long life automotive engine coolant. So I can't say as though there is any significant JD mark-up here.

One thing to note about any engine coolant is that not all brands are compatible with each other or with each engine. It really is best not to mix different engine coolant brands as some brands will chemically react with each other and can cause rapid corrosion to internal engine components.

So for about 12 bucks every two years if you want to change your coolant go for it. If you run longer on the factory filled coolant you will most likely be just fine.
The online manual I'm referencing is the exact same one as the print copy that came with my tractor: OM172801. It contradicts itself (sort of) as I described in the original post. I don't view it as a contradiction as much as just an acknowledgement that if you use the Cool-Gard II the interval can be longer.

I also think that it makes sense Deere would use its own recommended coolant at the factory but just wanted to make sure.

Rob
 

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Chances are your coolant in the machine if its a nice yellow color is the JD cool-guard II. I don't see JD factory filling their machines with anything less than that.

The online manual for your machine says to change engine coolant every 2 years or 1000 hours of service. The online manual is likely an older revision than the manual that cam with your tractor.

They also have a page to show how to check/drain/fill the system.
Glad you found that. The problem is the "Servicing Cooling System" section is missing from the on-line manual I checked (s/n 060001-070000). I should have checked some other versions. Don't you just love it when JD leaves sections out at different S/N intervals? They do mention a radiator petcock. Strange that it is not shown in the parts diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Glad you found that. The problem is the "Servicing Cooling System" section is missing from the on-line manual I checked (s/n 060001-070000). I should have checked some other versions. Don't you just love it when JD leaves sections out at different S/N intervals? They do mention a radiator petcock. Strange that it is not shown in the parts diagram.
Interesting. I hadn't though to check other editions of the manual online to see if they included the actual procedure. I did find it in one other one.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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I just did a generic search for x758 manual and the first one that pops up is that version from JD. I know when I search for my x738 manual the same way I get a different version than the printed one that came with my tractor. The 2018 x738 has a few updates like the new oil drain valve that aren't in the online manual. Also my print manual gets rid of the initial 8hr oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just did a generic search for x758 manual and the first one that pops up is that version from JD. I know when I search for my x738 manual the same way I get a different version than the printed one that came with my tractor. The 2018 x738 has a few updates like the new oil drain valve that aren't in the online manual. Also my print manual gets rid of the initial 8hr oil change.
Deere actually has multiple versions of the x758 manual online. I believe they correspond to serial number breaks. You have to match it up either via serial or to the actual Deere part number on your printed manual to ensure that you're viewing the 'right' one.

Rob
 

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I just did a generic search for x758 manual and the first one that pops up is that version from JD. I know when I search for my x738 manual the same way I get a different version than the printed one that came with my tractor. The 2018 x738 has a few updates like the new oil drain valve that aren't in the online manual. Also my print manual gets rid of the initial 8hr oil change.
The on-line manuals are fairly easy to locate on the JD website. They are organized by the serial number of the machine and whether it is a NA unit or export.

Use this link:

John Deere Operator Manual | Parts & Services | John Deere US

Key in the model number: X758, click Search, and then click on the one which corresponds to your S/N.

X758 Garden Tractors (N.A.) BASE UNIT (040001-050000) North American , 3TNM74, 3 cylinders, 4 cycle, Diesel
X758 Garden Tractors (N.A.) BASE UNIT (070001-) North American , 3TNM74, 3 cylinders, 4 cycle, Diesel
X758 Garden Tractors (N.A.) BASE UNIT (060001-070000) North American , 3TNM74, 3 cylinders, 4 cycle, Diesel
X758 Garden Tractors (N.A.) BASE UNIT (050001-060000) North American , 3TNM74, 3 cylinders, 4 cycle, Diesel
X758 Garden Tractors (N.A.) BASE UNIT (010001-020000) North American , 3TNM74, 3 cylinders, 4 cycle, Diesel
X758 Garden Tractors (N.A.) BASE UNIT (020001-030000) North American , 3TNM74, 3 cylinders, 4 cycle, Diesel
X758 Garden Tractors (N.A.) BASE UNIT (030001-040000) North American , 3TNM74, 3 cylinders, 4 cycle, Diesel


 

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Discussion Starter #14
At my dealer a 1 gallon bottle of pre-mixed cool-guard II cost about $12. This is on par with any standard long life automotive engine coolant. So I can't say as though there is any significant JD mark-up here.
Guess you're lucky. The gallon of pre-mix Cool-Gard II is $14.85 at my dealer.

Rob
 

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Guess you're lucky. The gallon of pre-mix Cool-Gard II is $14.85 at my dealer.

Rob
I found that the dealer I got my tractor from really has very reasonable prices for everything they sell. Even the low viscosity hydraulic fluid was only 6 dollars a quart. Not to mention the deal I got on the tractor itself.

Even at 15 dollars a gallon for coolant I would still have no problems buying that rather than risk using an incompatible coolant in my engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Changed the coolant tonight. It was as easy as it sounds. There is even a small drain hose from the petcock on the bottom of the radiator making it easy to drain the coolant without getting it all over. Thanks for the post above about the manual with the instructions.

Rob
 
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