Green Tractor Talk banner

5221 - 5240 of 5240 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
Sorry for low lighting but finally got one door up on one side of the barn this was a 9ft door made with oak boards from local sawmill so it’s very heavy. Used the 2025R to lift it in position to slide into the track. Have the small man door made ready to go tomorrow and need to make two 6ft doors to cover an 11ft opening on the other side.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,571 Posts
Sorry for low lighting but finally got one door up on one side of the barn this was a 9ft door made with oak boards from local sawmill so it’s very heavy. Used the 2025R to lift it in position to slide into the track. Have the small man door made ready to go tomorrow and need to make two 6ft doors to cover an 11ft opening on the other side.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very nice!

The doors on my barn are twice as long and made of 2” roughsawn hemlock. I just can’t imagine how heavy they are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
Very nice!

The doors on my barn are twice as long and made of 2” roughsawn hemlock. I just can’t imagine how heavy they are.
I was worried about these being too heavy for the track but it’s what I had. The entire barn is made from this lumber so nice that it will match when it ages. I wouldn’t want it any heavier. I made a kitchen table out if 2 inch rough sawn hemlock. It turned out beautiful. It’s a nice wood to work with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,571 Posts
I was worried about these being too heavy for the track but it’s what I had. The entire barn is made from this lumber so nice that it will match when it ages. I wouldn’t want it any heavier. I made a kitchen table out if 2 inch rough sawn hemlock. It turned out beautiful. It’s a nice wood to work with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The doors do look very nice on the barn!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
I've got to laugh at my age and forgetfulness just so I can be in the crowd that's laughing at me. . .

Those of you who aren't there yet will understand. . . . someday.

Treefarmer
AMEN BROTHER! :ROFLMAO:
Theres a lot of us in that same boat. I hope it doesn't sink. Did anyone remember to put the plug in????
 

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
36,144 Posts
AMEN BROTHER! :ROFLMAO:
Theres a lot of us in that same boat. I hope it doesn't sink. Did anyone remember to put the plug in????
Got it. (y) :ROFLMAO:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
501 Posts
It's weird how chippers (and similar equipment) cost so much more when they remove the engines and add PTO couplers. :)
Actually, of the four chippers DR manufactures, the PTO version is the least expensive; it specs the same as one of the gas engine-powered models.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
501 Posts
It's weird how chippers (and similar equipment) cost so much more when they remove the engines and add PTO couplers. :)
Actually, of the four chippers DR manufactures, the PTO version is the least expensive; it specs the same as one of the gas engine-powered models.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,363 Posts
I asked this is one of other topics here, but I don't know if too many of you will see it there. I got Ken's hydraulic test gauge, warmed up the tractor, stuck it in the top loader SCV coupler.

I get 2700 PSI when I first move the stick in that direction, and if I move it again right after releasing it, I get 2800 PSI.

EDIT: I repeated the test, this time with the three point on the ground, and got 2900 PSI. I was also able to push it above 3000 by releasing and re-actuating the loader lever...each time it bumped up a little until it was over 3000. Also, if I "dead head" the system (leave the lever actuated) the PSI shoots up to its max (so 2900 PSI if the three point is on the ground) and then starts slowly drifting down all the way to low 2000s.

With the three point raised, it's 2700/2800.

With that in mind, here are my new questions:

1. Is that what it's supposed to be? What's yours?

2. What is my actual hydraulic pressure? The 2900 PSI it shoots up to? The 3000 + PSI I can get it to with repeated cyclings? Or the 2400ish PSI it drifts down to when dead headed?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,792 Posts
I'll be watching for an answer too. I have Ken's gauge but haven't tested mine yet either. Not that it matters because I have no clue what it's supposed to be either :LOL:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,039 Posts
I asked this is one of other topics here, but I don't know if too many of you will see it there. I got Ken's hydraulic test gauge, warmed up the tractor, stuck it in the top loader SCV coupler.

I get 2700 PSI when I first move the stick in that direction, and if I move it again right after releasing it, I get 2800 PSI.

Two questions:

1. Is that what it's supposed to be? What's yours?

2. Which of the two is my hydraulic pressure? 2700 psi or 2800 psi?
You need to ensure that you are testing the pressure in accordance with the procedure outlined in the Technical Manual. Normally that involves first getting the hydraulic fluid to a specific temperature before testing the pressure. As an example, here is the process for a 2720:

728568


728569
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,792 Posts
I asked this is one of other topics here, but I don't know if too many of you will see it there. I got Ken's hydraulic test gauge, warmed up the tractor, stuck it in the top loader SCV coupler.

I get 2700 PSI when I first move the stick in that direction, and if I move it again right after releasing it, I get 2800 PSI.

EDIT: I repeated the test, this time with the three point on the ground, and got 2900 PSI. I was also able to push it above 3000 by releasing and re-actuating the loader lever...each time it bumped up a little until it was over 3000. Also, if I "dead head" the system (leave the lever actuated) the PSI shoots up to its max (so 2900 PSI if the three point is on the ground) and then starts slowly drifting down all the way to low 2000s.

With the three point raised, it's 2700/2800.

With that in mind, here are my new questions:

1. Is that what it's supposed to be? What's yours?

2. What is my actual hydraulic pressure? The 2900 PSI it shoots up to? The 3000 + PSI I can get it to with repeated cyclings? Or the 2400ish PSI it drifts down to when dead headed?

When I finally do test it I will do like Tim has in several videos. Just push the lever and you should hear the hydraulic system go into relief. So push the lever and hold for a few sec. No bumping, not one way then the other, not three point down, just push and hold. I still don't know what it should be. Usually there is a high and low range, I may call my dealer today and see what it is.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,608 Posts
Usually there is a high and low range
Someone just posted this with a pic out of their tech manual, not sure if it was here or in a FB group. I'll have to search a little to try and find it, but it was something like 2400-3000 psi for the range.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,327 Posts
It is listed in your owners manual under the specifications section.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,608 Posts
It is listed in your owners manual under the specifications section.
If I'm reading it right Kenny, the OM only states system relief pressure, which says 2500 psi. My 2025 was the same, I had to look in the tech manual for the pressure range and test/adjustment instructions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,363 Posts
When I finally do test it I will do like Tim has in several videos. Just push the lever and you should hear the hydraulic system go into relief. So push the lever and hold for a few sec. No bumping, not one way then the other, not three point down, just push and hold. I still don't know what it should be. Usually there is a high and low range, I may call my dealer today and see what it is.
Someone in another topic posted the manual for testing on our machines. It had you turn the three point rate of drop dial to fully off. The idea is that if you have an implement on there it takes some hydraulic pressure to keep it up. If there’s nothing on there it probably makes no difference.

The takeaway for me is that if I’m doing heavy loader work and using a ballast box, I will shut down the the rate of drop and then lower the three point (ballast box will stay up due to shut off) to give me back 200-300 psi of pressure. Or more.

I only had a light duty back blade, so a box make take more pressure away. I’ll have to test
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
That sounds like huge pain in the butt. I know it would be very awkward, if not impossible, for me to get to the rate of drop adjustment while I'm in the seat
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,608 Posts
That sounds like huge pain in the butt. I know it would be very awkward, if not impossible, for me to get to the rate of drop adjustment while I'm in the seat
I agree, some things get way too much thought put into them. If someone wants to pick 1500# to the top of the cylinders then buy a tractor that's rated to do so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,363 Posts
I just read the owner's manual and it says not to use the rate of drop dial to hold an implement up. So...there goes that.
 
5221 - 5240 of 5240 Posts
Top