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My new addition to the rear of the 738. And I think it’ll be a very nice addition too. Thanks to Tim/TTWT for the assist. Now off to finally install the lockout valve and see if it resolves my issue.

ETA: The lockout valve seems to have resolved my issue with the blade moving. I’ll know for sure when/if it ever snows again.

AB2C4959-A6D8-411F-BF3E-E354ABDB9799.jpeg
 

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I see this as becoming a popular item on the GT's. I am curious about whether the 3 point hitch stays down while towing from the hitch. Or does it tend to raise up and down as when the load starts pushing when going down hill, for instance? Do these GT's have down pressure on the 3 point, or are stabilizer bars added?

tommyhawk
 

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I see this as becoming a popular item on the GT's. I am curious about whether the 3 point hitch stays down while towing from the hitch. Or does it tend to raise up and down as when the load starts pushing when going down hill, for instance? Do these GT's have down pressure on the 3 point, or are stabilizer bars added?

tommyhawk
There is no down pressure. I usually tow at full height, but it will still bounce a bit.
 

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My homemade “heavy hitch” on the 318.
Trailer weight is 3000lbs, tongue weight approx. 350lbs.
3pt bouncing is minimal, requires a minimum of 5 front weights to steer however.


JD 110H, 140H3, & 318 w/ 23HP Vanguard
It is minimal with tongue weight but the right bump can make it bang.

You wouldn’t need front ballast with a loader on there. I hadn’t even thought about counterweight and I have my HH loaded with 6 weights.
 

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It is minimal with tongue weight but the right bump can make it bang.

You wouldn’t need front ballast with a loader on there. I hadn’t even thought about counterweight and I have my HH loaded with 6 weights.
I’m working on a loader Keith, just not for the 318.


JD 110H, 140H3, & 318 w/ 23HP Vanguard
 

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My homemade “heavy hitch” on the 318.
Trailer weight is 3000lbs, tongue weight approx. 350lbs.
3pt bouncing is minimal, requires a minimum of 5 front weights to steer however.


JD 110H, 140H3, & 318 w/ 23HP Vanguard
That hitch came out really nice.

Sent from my QTAIR7 using Tapatalk
 

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This weekend I installed a reverse pedal extender bought from "stewart1940" on eBay. I also removed the rear light assemblies and cleaned them thoroughly. They then got re-installed with new LED bulbs. I'm going to eventually remove them again, mask them, and then spray paint the inside silver or white, but that's a project for another day. I also replaced the headlight bulbs with LEDs, but for some reason they aren't working (still looking into that). Lastly, I installed a green JD spinner knob. I always had one on my old L118 and the tractor just didn't look ready to work without it! :)

I also went to Harbor Freight and picked up this guy 1-7/8 in. & 2 in. Double Ball Hitch. I'm going to bury it in a bucket of concrete and use it for rear ballast. I figured the double ball would anchor in better than the single ball, so was worth the extra 5 bucks. The only down side is that the bucket will sit about 2 inches closer to the ground, but that shouldn't be a problem.
 

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This weekend I installed a reverse pedal extender bought from "stewart1940" on eBay. I also removed the rear light assemblies and cleaned them thoroughly. They then got re-installed with new LED bulbs. I'm going to eventually remove them again, mask them, and then spray paint the inside silver or white, but that's a project for another day. I also replaced the headlight bulbs with LEDs, but for some reason they aren't working (still looking into that). Lastly, I installed a green JD spinner knob. I always had one on my old L118 and the tractor just didn't look ready to work without it! :)

I also went to Harbor Freight and picked up this guy 1-7/8 in. & 2 in. Double Ball Hitch. I'm going to bury it in a bucket of concrete and use it for rear ballast. I figured the double ball would anchor in better than the single ball, so was worth the extra 5 bucks. The only down side is that the bucket will sit about 2 inches closer to the ground, but that shouldn't be a problem.
Polarity is critical on LEDs. Try reversing the wires.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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I thought that we could use a thread here for the little guys. I have often wanted to post something but there wasn't a general thread for those of us with GTs and LTs.

I will go first.

I had them out for some fine tuning yesterday. I have done a little trick with the reverse pedal on my 4x5 machines. They don't have a lot of speed from the factory in reverse and there are a couple of kits available to provide more travel. For me, it seemed more simple to get out the torch and give the shaft a little tweak. With the sheet metal off and the pedal removed, you can heat the shaft red hot and give it a little twist. I had done this befoe but went a bit too high so I adjusted it.

In the photo attached, you can see that it is a bit too high and is awkward to use. If you set it so that the rearmost corner is just at the foot area, it works great. No parts, and no money spent.:bigthumb: All four of them are now full speed backwards.
I started moving my rear work light from the right side rops to the left side rops.
I need to pick up some paired wire to reroute the power.
 

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I thought that we could use a thread here for the little guys. I have often wanted to post something but there wasn't a general thread for those of us with GTs and LTs.

I will go first.

I had them out for some fine tuning yesterday. I have done a little trick with the reverse pedal on my 4x5 machines. They don't have a lot of speed from the factory in reverse and there are a couple of kits available to provide more travel. For me, it seemed more simple to get out the torch and give the shaft a little tweak. With the sheet metal off and the pedal removed, you can heat the shaft red hot and give it a little twist. I had done this befoe but went a bit too high so I adjusted it.

In the photo attached, you can see that it is a bit too high and is awkward to use. If you set it so that the rearmost corner is just at the foot area, it works great. No parts, and no money spent.:bigthumb: All four of them are now full speed backwards.
I did a similar thing but built up the back of the pedal with epoxy. I had screwed 3 or 4 sheet metal screws into the 425 pedal, made a 2 inch wide masking tape form and poured in the epoxy. Worked great -- still being used after I traded it in for my newer X585.
 

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Got the ole girl out of the shed and rigged her up for sap hauling winter duty. About 250lbs of front ballast to keep the wheels on the ground with a full barrel in back. View attachment 726072
Now THAT is a cleat........ 💪 (y) 💪 (y)

Don't forget the BALLAST weight on the can on the dash under the steering wheel..........Probably about either 12 ounces or about 1 ounce.........

What did I do with my little Deere today? Not a darn thing. In fact, I haven't even started it THIS YEAR........it's not much of a winter tractor these days. In fact, it still has the mower deck on it.............
 

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Polarity is critical on LEDs. Try reversing the wires.
Yep, it was a polarity issue. They work like a champ now!
 

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Yes I know it was only a couple of inches..... instead of the 5 they predicted. But when it comes to getting the tractor out,
A27773CC-5B03-459A-88C3-C9818D27E372.jpeg
I’ll take the two and go with it. Right?
 

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Woooo Heavy Hitch released their brand new Click-n-go 8 suitcase weight weight bracket along with a 2" receiver and hook built in.

I might already have one sitting at my place and have used it for the last few months to counter my CTA 66 plow along with towing my cart and wood splitter around the property.

8 Weight Bracket for Click-N-Go
 

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Today was a good day to be outside for some fresh air and install the coupler on the 17P cart.
A25C8820-6A79-4C5A-8C73-D84986DC1E6D.jpeg
 

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I headed down to our walking trail along the river to clear some down trees. Great day, 32 degrees in Southwestern Michigan.
The 140 looks great! Did you do the restoration work?
 
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