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Yesterday I did the 50 hour transaxle service. Not as bad as I thought. “On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the toughest, it was a solid 2”.

Before I started I checked the fluid level (I got the tractor at 42 hours) and it didn’t show up on the dipstick either fully in or just sitting on the ring as per the JD manual. No leaks and it ran fine and I could have sworn I checked it when I got the machine.

Loosened the front wheel lug bolts as well as the right rear and got the front up on jack stands. Invariably the center drain was right on the deck hanger arm so I used a little bit of aluminum foil to make a “funnel” to channel the fluid into the center drain pan. Oh, I’m a bohunk so removing the front deck hanger didn’t occur to me until after the service was done. Lifted the rear from the hitch, pulled the wheel and then used a second floor jack to lift from the outside so I could get the rear floor jack out of the way and then the drain pan could slide under the drain plug and the oil filter.

All vent and filler plugs came out easy except for the hex plug for the front axle that was conveniently buried under the exhaust. Even with a universal it was tricky. Of course when I was draining the left front I unscrewed the vent plug a little too far before I had the drain pan lifted up close to the drain hole . Yep, the fluid went from a trickle and shot a nice stream of fluid over top of the pan and on to the floor at the jack stand. What’s a project without at least one spill! The oil filter was on super tight but I was pretty shocked that it had a ton of dirt and grass packed in above and behind it. I blow the machine off pretty good after every use and I didn’t see the clump of grass and debris on top of the filter boss until I started twisting the filter. Oh well, I brushed as much off as I could once I saw it. Used some brake cleaner to make sure no crap was in the filter boss. Filled up the front until it started to fill the right front vent, capped that one and filled until the left one came up. Noticed that the threads inside the front axle fill plug had some crap in there so I cleaned that out also. Strange since the axle was perfectly clean outside.

Whole job took a leisurely hour or so and took the exact 3 gallons and ½ of a quart that the manual says. Gotta hand it to JD the manual is one of the best written I’ve seen. It has logically grouped sections that are easy to follow and has very little clutter. Almost as if it was written by a mechanic not a lawyer.

Only thing I noticed is that the factory oil I drained out was a greenish fluid that smelled like brake fluid. The replacement Hy-Gard Low Vis was bluish and smelled like ATF. Weird.
What size allen wrenches are needed to service the front end. The large one on each side looks unusually large imo.
 

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What size allen wrenches are needed to service the front end. The large one on each side looks unusually large imo.
corrected
The front axle filler plug is a 10mm allen wrench socket. The front end drain/vent plugs are 12 and 14mm 6pt sockets. IIRC the rear drain plug wasn't metric but was 5/8 or 11/16.

I used 3/8 drive on the front components and a 1/2" drive to remove the rear and then I put all back on with a 3/8" torque wrench.

The service went much quicker than I expected and I don't recall very many profane syllables being uttered. Getting that drain plug out was a challenge since it sits under the exhaust with barely enough clearance for the socket and a ratchet. I've entertained the thought of buying a single 6mm hex socket and grinding it down to give it more clearance.

Luckily I had a big filter cup wrench from my hot rodding days that fit the filter (with the prerequesite sheet or two of newspaper to keep it from slipping when loosening the filter.
 
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Off the top of my head I think the front axle filler plug was a 6mm allen wrench socket. The other front end drain/vent plugs were like 12 or 13mm 6pt sockets. IIRC the rear drain plug wasn't metric but was 5/8 or 11/16.

I used 3/8 drive on the front components and a 1/2" drive to remove the rear and then I put all back on with a 3/8" torque wrench.

The service went much quicker than I expected and I don't recall very many profane syllables being uttered. Getting that drain plug out was a challenge since it sits under the exhaust with barely enough clearance for the socket and a ratchet. I've entertained the thought of buying a single 6mm hex socket and grinding it down to give it more clearance.

Luckily I had a big filter cup wrench from my hot rodding days that fit the filter (with the prerequesite sheet or two of newspaper to keep it from slipping when loosening the filter.
Vent plug on the wheel is 12mm hex
Drain plug on the wheel and axel housing is 14mm.

Vent plug on housing 8mm allen.

I agree drain and refill is a pretty easy service. Just remembered to loosen the dipstick before trying to drain the rear axel. The dipstick is the vent for the rear.
 
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Vent plug on the wheel is 12mm hex
Drain plug on the wheel and axel housing is 14mm.

Vent plug on housing 8mm allen.

I agree drain and refill is a pretty easy service. Just remembered to loosen the dipstick before trying to drain the rear axel. The dipstick is the vent for the rear.
Thanks! I was going by a 50 something year old brain's recollection.

And don't be a doofus like me and pull the front axle vent plugs out all the way out of the housing before getting the drain pan up and ready to catch the stream of fluid that mother earth's gravity is going to let shoot out of the axle drains..
 
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Vent plug on the wheel is 12mm hex
Drain plug on the wheel and axel housing is 14mm.

Vent plug on housing 8mm allen.

I agree drain and refill is a pretty easy service. Just remembered to loosen the dipstick before trying to drain the rear axel. The dipstick is the vent for the rear.
Thank you very helpful
 
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Pulled valve covers today. Found something interesting. The no.1 cylinder intake valve is actually set too tight. Spec is 0.15mm and it's set at at around 0.11mm (0.13 won't go and 0.10mm is just a hair too loose). Seems odd a brand new ending would be that tight after 180hrs. This is the first time I've checked them. The other 3 valves are on the tight side as well just not as tight.
That is what new valves do, and why they should be checked at the first required interval. They pound the seats when closing, and recede back into the head a little. Will probably be a long time before another adjustment is needed.
 

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That is what new valves do, and why they should be checked at the first required interval. They pound the seats when closing, and recede back into the head a little. Will probably be a long time before another adjustment is needed.
In my past experience I've come across far more loose valves when I went to make adjustments than tight ones. That said though I'm far more used to seeing the set screw type adjustment and not the cam bolt adjuster on the Kawi engine.

Either way I was surprised to see the valves as tight as they were. It's also about 100hrs early on the scheduled service. Only 200hrs on the engine and service is due at 300.
 

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When I first bought my house the previous owners left this Rubbermaid storage cabinet on the side as well as two planter bets that they had used for a small vegetable garden. I left it figuring I might try to start my own at some point but it has been almost 5 years now and I haven't bothered with it. Decided I could use the storage out back to get my extra chairs for my firepit out of my shed. Excuse the overgrown lawn we had a lot of rain lately and was waiting for the grass to be dry enough to use the loader over it to pick this thing up.

At first, I thought if I tied the thing tight enough to the loader I could just pick it up standing up. The plastic design though gives too much to make that work and it just wanted to fall over.




So ended up putting it on its side instead.








Long term I think I will actually move it to the backside of the shed so I don't have to look at it but I need to clear a path to back there first.

Some forks or hooks would have made this much easier. I still can't decide between hooks or clevis mounts. I would prefer to use tie-down straps most of the time so leaning towards clevis but then it seems using chains isn't very easy. Did see maybe I could do hooks and get two oblong rings for the hooks when I want to use tie-down straps.
 

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Some forks or hooks would have made this much easier. I still can't decide between hooks or clevis mounts. I would prefer to use tie-down straps most of the time so leaning towards clevis but then it seems using chains isn't very easy. Did see maybe I could do hooks and get two oblong rings for the hooks when I want to use tie-down straps.
Lot's of options like this /\. I find the clevis are more useful for me as I am often hooking a strap hook end to the KBOH, but you can also put the hooks on the outside of the bucket and use the clevis as the backing plate inside the bucket, then you have the best of both worlds. I need to add some hooks and clevises to my pallet fork frame, but those will likely end up welded on. Having ways to secure the items you are lifting sure is handy and makes the moves safer. Ken has some really handy Oblong ring straps of different lengths which are great as well..

Make sure you participate in the GTT Secret Santa program. You just never know what your GTT Secret Santa might send your way......

 

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I use tie down straps with clevis hooks. The big 2” yellow straps don’t work, but anything smaller does.



Those are different tractors, and the 750 had a different type of hook, but you get the idea.

I also added a set of titan pallet forks. I bought 3 sets, and sold two to cover the cost. Other local resellers have 100% markup so it must have appeared I was taking a loss.
 
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I use tie down straps with clevis hooks. The big 2” yellow straps don’t work, but anything smaller does.



Those are different tractors, and the 750 had a different type of hook, but you get the idea.

I also added a set of titan pallet forks. I bought 3 sets, and sold two to cover the cost. Other local resellers have 100% markup so it must have appeared I was taking a loss.
Maybe this might / could become an "inventory item" for you, if the other resellers are going to continue their practices. As long as you keep them light enough for SCUTS, I can't imagine you can't sell them within a reasonable period of time. Plus, you can tout "free local pickup", despite their "free shipping policy", getting something now or quickly is appealing to most verses waiting for the shipment.
 

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Maybe this might / could become an "inventory item" for you, if the other resellers are going to continue their practices. As long as you keep them light enough for SCUTS, I can't imagine you can't sell them within a reasonable period of time. Plus, you can tout "free local pickup", despite their "free shipping policy", getting something now or quickly is appealing to most verses waiting for the shipment.
It probably should return. The turn time wasn’t the greatest, but it was reasonable and if I stock both common sizes it might increase. I worried about starting a price war, because there are 3 resellers within an hour, and each one resells a different item(s). That could flood the market and make it hard to dump inventory and exit.
 
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It probably should return. The turn time wasn’t the greatest, but it was reasonable and if I stock both common sizes it might increase. I worried about starting a price war, because there are 3 resellers within an hour, and each one resells a different item(s). That could flood the market and make it hard to dump inventory and exit.
Maybe just keep sticking your toe in the water and don't get in too deep. If it reaches a price war, just sit on the remaining inventory because only an Idiot or a Government employee will sell items below cost or simply trade dollars, for very long..............Obviously you know the market in your area far better than I do. I just know in the right places. the right items are going surprisingly well..........
 
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Lot's of options like this /\. I find the clevis are more useful for me as I am often hooking a strap hook end to the KBOH, but you can also put the hooks on the outside of the bucket and use the clevis as the backing plate inside the bucket, then you have the best of both worlds. I need to add some hooks and clevises to my pallet fork frame, but those will likely end up welded on. Having ways to secure the items you are lifting sure is handy and makes the moves safer. Ken has some really handy Oblong ring straps of different lengths which are great as well..

Make sure you participate in the GTT Secret Santa program. You just never know what your GTT Secret Santa might send your way......

I am trying to weigh which would be more useful. The chain seems the easiest and fastest way of being able to make length adjustments for what you are doing. The clevis though seems better for using straps which is better when not want to scratch and damage what you are lifting/carrying. Oblong rings seem to help use straps with hooks although I don't know how secure they would be if you needed to strap something down that is rather tall. Is clevis inside the bucket that useful? Seems like easier to tie things down to the top of the bucket. Maybe I am putting too much thought into this vs just picking one. I do that a lot. Been trying to decide for about a month now.
 

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Every object you pick up is different. I find hooks on the bucket to be the most versatile for a single solution.

Some want to be strapped tight, others loose, some get hung from the bucket, and some have edges that will cut straps.


I didn’t really like the big hooks on the 750 bucket, I could only use chains with clevis hooks on both ends if I wanted to control the length of chain.
 
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Gave the GX345 a bath today. Changed the oil and tucked her away for winter storage. Hooked up the battery tender too. Also gave the Agri-Fab leaf vac a bath and oil change. I like to store my my engines with clean oil.
 

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So while surfing a JD FB group today someone was talking about mudflats on their 2019 x738. He said his mudflats had no clearance or fitment issues like I was speaking about. I posted a couple pics to show what mine looked like before i manhandled and bent them for a little more clearance. Prior to trying to re-bend them I couldn't even sneak a finger under the side of them before contacting the knobby and having no room. When researching mine the local dealer and two shops online all said this was the correct one for my 17 X758. My part number was BM24430.

He posted pictures of his flaps and they look completely different than mine. He's definitely got clearance I didn't have. Oddly enough his plastic flaps also have different ribs on them than mine do. His part number was BM22717.

After doing some looking tonight I see his part number is for the older X7xx platform with the MFWD whereas mine is for the current design X700 with electronic 4wd. JD's service manual supports what I have as well. It's a shame for $160 they fit like garbage and have so little clearance the knobbies rub.

Front wheel fenders (not for 2WD-4WS tractors)
 

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So finally after some health issues (not covid) I was able to spend some quality time with my x758. Here are a few pics of whats been going on. I have done the following things over the last few months as well as getting it ready for winter.

Added Arm Rests
Added Frent Fenders
Added diverter valve for hydraulics- ( also added the kit for 4X5 series front quick hitch.
Added a 2" Heavy Hitch reciever on rear.
Purchased Deck Axels kit from Larry.
Replaced all lights with LED's
Changed to Gator G6 Blades

And this last week added a new Chapin 150 lbs spreader to the fleet. - I spread 500 lbs of winterizer- It worked pretty good - I loved the fact that it stops feeding as you stop. Very helpful. However it does tend to tip if you go to fast around the corners. (not that I have any personal experience of this).

What I want to still add:
3pt hitch- I hope- I just have to wait to save for it.
- box blade
- landscape rake
Grass Groomer for lawn stripes
Tractor Shovel
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