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I also installed a new reverse pedal on my 455 as the goofy plastic pedal they use tends to flex over time and pretty soon, the reverse speed is compromised. Or, the plastic on the reverse pedal will stretch and slow the machine down and that's a tricky one to find as the pedal appears to move just as it always has and you start to think maybe the reverse control valve in the hydro unit is going bad or something more serious is wrong causing the reverse speed to decline.
Screenshot_2021-01-08 Amazon com JMTAAT for John Deere 425 445 455 Reverse X-Pedal with Rubber...png



In my case, it was once again, the pedal was stretching. So I ordered an after market pedal which is really nice and eliminates the pedal stretching, etc. Super simple to install, you simply back out the set bolts on the plastic pedal and install the new metal pedal with the rubber pad so the tractor ends up with two steel pedals, just like on the 1025r and dozens of other machines. THE NEW PEDAL IS A HUGE IMPROVEMENT and I encourage anyone with the 425 / 445 / 455 to make this simple and low cost upgrade.

Now, when I was up under there taking off the old pedal, I noticed the bearings on the shafts looked pretty rough. In one case, the bearing was nearly seized up and dragging the pedal movement. In fact, it was preventing the pedals from returning to a neutral position when I would let off the pedals. I also noticed it was making the tractors movement much less smooth.

I ended up replacing the roller bearings listed as numbers 11 and 24. Both of the bearings were hanging up. In fact, in the end, I ended up replacing all of the rotational hardware and even the reverse shaft as the bearing was partially rusted to the shaft.

WOW, what a difference in pedal movements. And the full speed both forward and reverse were restored. Now, when you lift your foot off the pedal, the machine stops like it should. Its also much smoother and responsive. It was about $100 in parts for the bearings and the shaft and the other bushings and support pieces, but it sure made a difference to the tractors pedal movements and function.

At a minimum, make sure to get up under neath the right side floor board on your tractor and lubricated the bearings and the pivots and shafts for the linkage. I strongly suggest using something which is a good metal lubricant that will dry and NOT attract dirt, dist and grass, etc. I happen to like the Amsoil chain lubricant, its the same thing i use on my garage doors and also on my 1025r, It will lubricate very well and also dry, so its not getting gunked up with dirt and grass from the mower as that pedal area is right above the mower deck and in the storm of debris when the machine is used

Screenshot_2021-01-08 John Deere Parts Catalog(2).png


 

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I ordered the new side grills for the side panels on my 455. I got to talking to the mechanic who does some of the stuff I don't want to at my buddies shop where I buy my ExMark and Echo stuff. I stopped in last week new years eve afternoon and bought each person that works at the shop a case of beer and a snack tray with cheese and crackers, chips, all the good carb junk foods. They appreciated it.

There is a good group of people at the shop and they always take great care of me. They schedule my Exmark maintenance so they pick my machine up in the morning and then service it, do what they need and then get it back to me that same afternoon. I helps keep me from falling behind on the mowing I do.

When I was talking to the mechanics, they said they heard I had found a good source for the Deere hoods and side panels on several different models. I mentioned that I had new side panels and a hood for my tractor and the guy who usually works on my stuff said "My 455 is missing the side panels entirely and the grill is beat up and the hood is there, but rough."

I told him about the panels I had gotten from Flip Manufacturing and asked if he wanted the panels off my tractor when I replace them. He was eager to get them and asked how much, and I told him I would just give him the parts at no charge. Then I realized I was planning to use my side panel grilles from the Deere side panels in the new side panels. I didn't want to give him the side panels with the grilles pulled out as the grilles are important for structural support of the entire panel and I have little doubt the original side panels would crack for the vibration without the side panels.

I went ahead and ordered new side panels for my new flip side panels and the new Grille. I also ordered all new mounting hardware for my side panels and hood from DEERE, which includes the pull and twist mounting rings which are spring loaded. I aso ordered the new decals for the side panels, as well as the service interval decal under the hood of the 425/445/455 so its complete and right.

The side panel decals are serial number specific for the tractor. I am going to install the new side grilles into the side panels today as well as install the new side panel decals that run the length of the panel with the model number incorporated into the decal. Then I will install the new side panels and hardware, along with the decals on the underside of the hood and the Diesel decals and service interval decals.

The decals are all extra order and they add up quickly, the side panel decals with the model numbers range from $25 to $35 per side per model and the interval decal is another $25 It doesn't take long and you have spent another $100 plus in decals for the new panels.

View attachment 769919
It will make you smile every time you look at it now.

I’m guessing you haven’t opened the side panels yet? They should include new twist locks, but not the 2 pockets for hood retention. I have some spares, JD parts wasn’t real accurate. It said order 2 for the hood, but they are actually packs of 2. I really only needed one to begin with but decided to replace both because it was only a couple dollars, which also made them not worth returning. My dealer has been great the few times I have needed to return things that cost real money.
 
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So sharing my new rookie loader failure so maybe others can learn. A stupid mistake that could have ended up much worse in the end today. Was doing a bunch of work with my grapple earlier cutting up sections of a downed tree. Then switched to the loader so that move the rounds easier to my wood storage area at my fire pit area.

Loaded up the loader with load one. Should have just let go with 4 rounds instead of double stacking. WEIGHT was not the issue.


While lifting to clear my split woodpile, I didn't continuously level the bucket, and since I have only had the loader for just under 3 months and not done a ton of work with it it is not muscle memory yet for the controls. I tilted the bucket back instead of forward while raising and watched 3 rounds bounce off my hood in slow motion to my horror.


The Damage






I really feel like I should buy a lotto ticket tomorrow since the only thing that broke, in the end, is the grill. I was able to wash and polish everything else off. Yes if you look really close there are a few like scuffs but they can't be seen from more than 1ft away in direct sunlight.


So thankfully only need the grill and a new front decal since I don't see any easy way to remove the front one.
So parts came in a week ago but I haven't had time to install them till this weekend. Everything looks pretty much good as new except my ego haha.









The only complaint is I can't get the headlight on the right to line up as well as the headlight on the left when looking at it from the front. The left one is perfectly centered and the right one is tipped down a bit. Otherwise, she looks almost good as new minus the scuff in the paint only I will know about.
 

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So parts came in a week ago but I haven't had time to install them till this weekend. Everything looks pretty much good as new except my ego haha.









The only complaint is I can't get the headlight on the right to line up as well as the headlight on the left when looking at it from the front. The left one is perfectly centered and the right one is tipped down a bit. Otherwise, she looks almost good as new minus the scuff in the paint only I will know about.
To my eye the lights look pretty level to the hood.
Maybe it's the grill that needs adjusting...
 

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I replaced the steering shaft in my 455 and I didn't get any pictures during the process. Here are the items I have either replaced with new or the repairs I have made in the process of freshening up my 455.

1. Replaced Reverse pedal with new steel pedal from the after market. This is the pedal I installed and its really nice. Well worth the $25.50 for the pedal.


2. Replaced two bearings and a shaft in the pedal linkage assembly. The forward pedal wasn't releasing back to neutral like it should and part of that was the neutral bias adjustment with the swash plate and the internal adjustment of the rear hydro. Once I got the neutral bias adjusted, the pedals still didn't feel right and then I noticed one of the pedal shafts had a seized ball bearing on it.

Tried to loosen it up with penetrating fluid but it was time to replace the bearing and the shaft, as the easiest way to get it apart was to cut the shaft and replace it a new shaft and bearing. Now, its just like when it was new, except with the much better reverse pedal assembly. For those with the 425/445/455, I strongly suggest spending the $25 for the new reverse pedal. replaced the small parts of the bearings, washers, etc on each shaft, plus replaced shaft number 9. Returned the pedals to functioning like new........

Screenshot_2021-01-18 John Deere Parts Catalog(3).png




3. Replaced the oil change valve on the factor line as it was "weeping" a few drops. There are O rings inside of the valve, but I decided to replace the entire assembly, so I replaced 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19, which was the drain valve. This is really a great option and so much nicer than having to use a drain pan, etc. It is threaded into the oil pan, so I replaced the seal and other pieces shown. You can take the hose and stick it in a gallon milk jug and open the drain valve (I think it's a 3/8" fitting) and the engine oil drains down the hose into the milk jug. No mess, couldn't be easier. Now, its got new parts.....

Screenshot_2021-01-18 John Deere Parts Catalog.png


4. Replaced the steering shaft bushings and the steering shaft itself. Here is an image of the parts in that project . I replaced the steering shaft and also the bushings, washers and clips, which are shown as parts 4, 5 and 6 in the illustration. Not a difficult repair, just took time. You end up having to remove the foot well and while I had that off, I also removed the rear operator platform for my next project. The steering shaft replacement is probably a 2 hour project in total......

Screenshot_2021-01-18 John Deere Parts Catalog(1).png


5. I removed the operator platform and welded some reinforcement plates underneath the platform where the seat mounts. Over the years, the use causes the metal to stress crack in two areas, near the seat plaform mounting bolt holes, so the areas which support the seat on the operator platform were added some plate steel to help stiffen everything back up and also welded on the actual seat spring assembly as there was some stress to that part as well over the years. The seat base is expensive, at about $300 or more, IF you can locate a new one. I also ordered the "Air Bag" for the seat suspension, to restore the ride. For those of you who aren't familiar with this, its using this part, inserted into the seat suspension, to dramatically improve the ride on the tractor. Best $25 spent.....hey call it an "Air Shim" we call it the Poor Man's Air ride Seat........


So the part number shown as 3 in this illustration was repaired and some welding did the trick. I also added some small plate steel underneath the operator platform where the seat suspension assembly mounts. I also replaced the seat with a new John Deere tall back seat, complete with a cover so it stays looking nice........

Screenshot_2021-01-18 John Deere Parts Catalog(2).png



All new side panels, hood, front grille, decals, hardware everything on the front looks like brand new. This summer I will pull the rear operator platform back off and repaint it, so it looks great as well. I will take some pictures of the machine and post them with the updates. She is looking good.............
 

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To my eye the lights look pretty level to the hood.
Maybe it's the grill that needs adjusting...
I see what you are saying. Good catch. The gap on either side of the front John Deere emblem where it meets the hood doesn't look equal. Will have to remove it and check it out this weekend.
 

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Listed my 42" hydraulic tiller on Craigslist . Those who have been here a while will remember the thread I posted on the build of it to use on my X580 . It's just more than I need for the size of our garden .
771799
 

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I also installed a new reverse pedal on my 455 as the goofy plastic pedal they use tends to flex over time and pretty soon, the reverse speed is compromised. Or, the plastic on the reverse pedal will stretch and slow the machine down and that's a tricky one to find as the pedal appears to move just as it always has and you start to think maybe the reverse control valve in the hydro unit is going bad or something more serious is wrong causing the reverse speed to decline.
View attachment 769924


In my case, it was once again, the pedal was stretching. So I ordered an after market pedal which is really nice and eliminates the pedal stretching, etc. Super simple to install, you simply back out the set bolts on the plastic pedal and install the new metal pedal with the rubber pad so the tractor ends up with two steel pedals, just like on the 1025r and dozens of other machines. THE NEW PEDAL IS A HUGE IMPROVEMENT and I encourage anyone with the 425 / 445 / 455 to make this simple and low cost upgrade.

Now, when I was up under there taking off the old pedal, I noticed the bearings on the shafts looked pretty rough. In one case, the bearing was nearly seized up and dragging the pedal movement. In fact, it was preventing the pedals from returning to a neutral position when I would let off the pedals. I also noticed it was making the tractors movement much less smooth.

I ended up replacing the roller bearings listed as numbers 11 and 24. Both of the bearings were hanging up. In fact, in the end, I ended up replacing all of the rotational hardware and even the reverse shaft as the bearing was partially rusted to the shaft.

WOW, what a difference in pedal movements. And the full speed both forward and reverse were restored. Now, when you lift your foot off the pedal, the machine stops like it should. Its also much smoother and responsive. It was about $100 in parts for the bearings and the shaft and the other bushings and support pieces, but it sure made a difference to the tractors pedal movements and function.

At a minimum, make sure to get up under neath the right side floor board on your tractor and lubricated the bearings and the pivots and shafts for the linkage. I strongly suggest using something which is a good metal lubricant that will dry and NOT attract dirt, dist and grass, etc. I happen to like the Amsoil chain lubricant, its the same thing i use on my garage doors and also on my 1025r, It will lubricate very well and also dry, so its not getting gunked up with dirt and grass from the mower as that pedal area is right above the mower deck and in the storm of debris when the machine is used

View attachment 769925


I don't understand the logic in making the pedals plastic. There cannot be that much cost savings in plastic over metal components.
 
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So parts came in a week ago but I haven't had time to install them till this weekend. Everything looks pretty much good as new except my ego haha.









The only complaint is I can't get the headlight on the right to line up as well as the headlight on the left when looking at it from the front. The left one is perfectly centered and the right one is tipped down a bit. Otherwise, she looks almost good as new minus the scuff in the paint only I will know about.
Did you find that the green hood at the 12 o'clock position directly above the emblem vibrates where it meets the black grill? I can watch mine chatter 1/8" - 1/4" which i find surprising. I didn't notice any broken tabs that would prevent this.
 

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Whoo Hoo!!!

Finally out with the x739 and the snowblower, as we got a snow worthy of having the setup for really the first time since acquisition. Last year had at best three inch snows and less, the type of stuff we run single stages and power shovels over more effectively than with the "big beast". Half the snows were so light fluffy and thin last year we used hand pushers to do it, it was so easy....

We joked that now that we had this setup, that it was badarse enough to have winter running somewhere else. Enter this year, where the first snow was mostly ICE, inch to two inch ice/slush layer freeze in sheets the weren't what we would call "blowable" either. Mother Nature has a sense of humor. Being a little hesitant to attempt to run frozen ice sheets through the new blower, we managed that stuff a little more crudely, but finally had our surfaces cleaned and cleared to the point of future serviceability. When the next regular snow fell, we would be ready.

That day came today, as we cleared our property and the other five driveways on the block as well as the sidewalks in about two hours, which included trimming around the corners where the plows pile up the snow and sludge. I found it rather easy to use the edge of the blower to cut into edges around the base of the driveways, to surgically cut into these such that the mouths of the driveways are actually "approachable" again. The shaft drive also proved MOST adept at removing the mush that the city plows leave at he base of the driveways,, too as well as being able to "trim off" the city plow edges they leave along the street edge. City block snow sculpting at it's finest, and the power of the machine makes it so EASY......

So the block is all caught up on snow removal management, from the overnight storm as well as some of the prior, to the grin of some happy neighbors.
 

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I'm with you Audible! We got 8-10 inches here in Nebraska, and of course the wind was blowing (when does it NOT blow), drifting snow. The Yanmar and the 54" blower made short work of my driveway, and two neighbors. Chewed through piles at the end of driveways left by the local plow guys.

772201
 

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So parts came in a week ago but I haven't had time to install them till this weekend. Everything looks pretty much good as new except my ego haha.









The only complaint is I can't get the headlight on the right to line up as well as the headlight on the left when looking at it from the front. The left one is perfectly centered and the right one is tipped down a bit. Otherwise, she looks almost good as new minus the scuff in the paint only I will know about.
To clarify my question from above, does your green hood lift up like this from the black grill? I can lift it almost a 1/2". You can imagine when the machine runs it vibrates pretty good.

Is it supposed to be secured down somehow and I broke it?


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Nothing like waiting until 6hrs before this supposed noreaster rolls through New England. I decided it was time to install my new silicone exhaust deflector along with the new bracket to support the hoses.

The new hose is a little larger than the one I used the first time. The reason I did this was to get an extra ply so 4 now instead of 3. I used a 90deg and I'll see how it holds up. The 45 wasn't aggressive enough. I did trim 1.5" off the hose so I could slide it back and keep the exit end from aiming at my plow. Last hose slopped my plow alot. As always a tbolt clamp instead of a worm style.

I tweaked the bracket so i can slide the hoses in and out while sleeved in the duraflap material. The factory design requires you to remove a hose at a time. Now I can remove the entire QH without unbolting or opening the duraflap sleeve.

I have the top flap material but didn't get a chance to bolt it on. The garage is 34deg and I can't work with gloves it's too frustrating. Maybe I'll do it for the next storm. I do have a plan in mind to acquire a light bar that has adjustable studs for mounting so I can bolt it to the top of my plow. I'm trying to stay away from Amazon but I can't find the bar cheaper anywhere else, everywhere else is 50% more.



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To clarify my question from above, does your green hood lift up like this from the black grill? I can lift it almost a 1/2". You can imagine when the machine runs it vibrates pretty good.

Is it supposed to be secured down somehow and I broke it?


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
I see what you are saying now. I will have to check that. From what I remember when installing the new grill there is nothing there that physically connects that part of the hood to the grill. All mounts are done on the side of the hood.
 

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I see what you are saying now. I will have to check that. From what I remember when installing the new grill there is nothing there that physically connects that part of the hood to the grill. All mounts are done on the side of the hood.
Please let me know. I can't tell if I snapped a tab off or if nothing was ever there and it's just poor engineering imo. It looks stupid the way it vibrates

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Got dumped on today by the storm in the Northeast. Didn't measure how deep it was but it was well over a foot of super wet heavy dense snow that stuck to everything.

So glad I got the snowblower for my machine. I did a storm like this at this house a couple years back and it to over 3 hours to clear my driveway with the 24 in walk behind and I was exhausted after that.

Took me about 45 min today to clear the driveway and didn't even break a sweat. Actually got the tractor to slip a couple of times in this nasty stuff.

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No pictures.

My first seat time of the day was on the x585. It was blocking the garage exit. I did use it to backdrag a couple corners. Up next was the x475 snowblowing my neighbors then my driveway. That took about an hour.

After that I put .4 hours on a customers x360 with a 44 blower. I use that for walkways around his place after plowing the driveway.

The x475 will come back out in a couple hours to finish up, I’m just waiting for the town to finish up. They are still going by every 15-20 minutes right now.
 
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Another round with the x475 and x585 this morning, then I dug into a frozen 140 I picked up. It took a couple try’s to get the hydraulics primed or flowing?





I still need to move the trailer and then clear where that and the 140 were parked.
 
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No pictures.

My first seat time of the day was on the x585. It was blocking the garage exit. I did use it to backdrag a couple corners. Up next was the x475 snowblowing my neighbors then my driveway. That took about an hour.

After that I put .4 hours on a customers x360 with a 44 blower. I use that for walkways around his place after plowing the driveway.

The x475 will come back out in a couple hours to finish up, I’m just waiting for the town to finish up. They are still going by every 15-20 minutes right now.
How did the X360 handle blowing snow and how deep was the snow?
 
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