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Normally it’s dry this time of year. I dont know why everyone’s complaining. Every year it dries out and every year some drout talk. Inslee talking about water shortage and all. Summer no rain is nothing new.
But it normally doesn't start as soon as it did or as hot as it did. Now is pretty normal though.

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Well planned on mowing this morning but my dad called & wanted me to come over & wireup & hang a new chandelier for them. So by the time I got done with that & bsing for awhile it was it was around 2:30. (They live right over the hill from us.) So then I rushed home of course & then the wife had just got home so we had to chat awhile & was letting me know what time supper would be. Finally got out to start mowing around 3:30. Usually I push mow first to do the tighter areas but I was running out of time. So just started the tractor & took off. Well, everything was going fine till I tried mowing by our close line. (Which I usually use the push mower for.) I went underneath & the lines were hanging low. I felt something weird after I had went underneath & I looked behind me & I had hooked one of the lines & pulled one of the damn posts out of the ground. 🤦‍♂️ Didn't hurt the tractor none. It wasn't a big deal but just the idea. I've been so busy lately with work & other stuff going on & on the weekends. Just havn't had much tractor time or getting any of my projects done. Needless to say the redoing of the clothes line was one of my projects on the list to do. Well I got a start on it now I guess.
🙄😏
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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Got out and put on the tractor side of the front 3rd function as part of the Summit/TTWT rear spools kit. This was purchased separately since it wasn't available when the rear kit initially came out. Installation took two hours, I was thinking it would take closer to one, it's just a bracket, a few fittings and two hoses. The hardest part was running those hoses from the rear to front trying to ensure they are clear of any moving parts and protected from getting caught on something while moving. This was the bulk of the time - While there are many ways these tractors are configured, it would have been helpful if the instructions had more than "route hoses to mid tractor". Aside from the time spent routing the hoses, it was pretty straight forward and I'm happy with the kit, think it was money well spent and well designed. I'll post some pictures in the thread this kit was announced in of how the hoses were routed underneath later.

I'll likely be adding a different button/control for the front spool, how is still TBD.

@MarkEagleUSA - No I do not have plans for a grapple (or 20' foot grapple work) however, like the rear spool kit, I figure there is going to be a price jump soonish and figured.. why not, this was partially the justification for the 4 spool over the 3 spool. I do have some other plans for the front 3rd function that are slowing moving from the bad idea in head phase to the bad money spent on projects phase. We'll see where this goes, if anywhere.

While I was under Hobbs, I figured I'd get the greasing done as well, it's been a few (30+) hours since it was last fully greased and I'm at 299.1hrs now, so it would have gotten done soon enough.

A few pics.
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Final thoughts for now: It was odd taking off the loader today for the first time with the SPC - It felt like I was forgetting something. It's a nice addition!
 

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This is a day late but my lovely bride mowed yesterday while I was gone. She has only used the 1025R a couple of times. This time she got to close to something the flashers on the left suffered. But I can’t even say anything because the first time I mowed with it I broke the same light. So I will give her an A for effort because 2/12 acres needed mowing
 

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Got out and put on the tractor side of the front 3rd function as part of the Summit/TTWT rear spools kit. This was purchased separately since it wasn't available when the rear kit initially came out. Installation took two hours, I was thinking it would take closer to one, it's just a bracket, a few fittings and two hoses. The hardest part was running those hoses from the rear to front trying to ensure they are clear of any moving parts and protected from getting caught on something while moving. This was the bulk of the time - While there are many ways these tractors are configured, it would have been helpful if the instructions had more than "route hoses to mid tractor". Aside from the time spent routing the hoses, it was pretty straight forward and I'm happy with the kit, think it was money well spent and well designed. I'll post some pictures in the thread this kit was announced in of how the hoses were routed underneath later.

I'll likely be adding a different button/control for the front spool, how is still TBD.

@MarkEagleUSA - No I do not have plans for a grapple (or 20' foot grapple work) however, like the rear spool kit, I figure there is going to be a price jump soonish and figured.. why not, this was partially the justification for the 4 spool over the 3 spool. I do have some other plans for the front 3rd function that are slowing moving from the bad idea in head phase to the bad money spent on projects phase. We'll see where this goes, if anywhere.

While I was under Hobbs, I figured I'd get the greasing done as well, it's been a few (30+) hours since it was last fully greased and I'm at 299.1hrs now, so it would have gotten done soon enough.

A few pics.
View attachment 796030

View attachment 796031

View attachment 796032

View attachment 796033

Final thoughts for now: It was odd taking off the loader today for the first time with the SPC - It felt like I was forgetting something. It's a nice addition!
The lack of instructions on routing is really my fault.
They didn’t ever install this kit. I ran the hoses twice, two different ways to get what I thought was the correct length, then called it good.

It seemed to me that there were any number of ways to run the hoses, so I decided to leave that as an exercise to the installer.

Tim
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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The lack of instructions on routing is really my fault.
They didn’t ever install this kit. I ran the hoses twice, two different ways to get what I thought was the correct length, then called it good.

It seemed to me that there were any number of ways to run the hoses, so I decided to leave that as an exercise to the installer.

Tim
I also ran the hoses a few different ways and either didn't like it or couldn't keep them from interfering with or contacting a moving function. It's a very minor "complaint" that doesn't take away from the kit at all, just made the install longer than I was expecting. Overall -the added functionality of these two kits is outstanding! Nothing is ever perfect, but these are pretty close to perfection in my humble-ish opinion. I'll take and get the photos up in the other thread soon to try and help those that haven't installed it yet.
 

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Tested the rake today. Harder to get the sticks from around the trees than expected. Mainly because the uneven terrain - nose goes down, rake goes up, sticks left behind… nose goes up, rake digs in…
Also it’s easy to hit things ( fence, trees) when turning….
but I did learn the rake is very good at filling in the tractor traps my dogs dog going after gophers! 😀
Also good for smoothing out areas prior to box blading.
 

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But it normally doesn't start as soon as it did or as hot as it did. Now is pretty normal though.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
It’s sprinkling in Shoreline right now. Not enough for trees but should keep the dust down for a couple days
 

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My tractor continues to be on "Road Repair" duty................6,600 linear feet of cracks filled thus far and I am pleased to report I am 95% done with that process..........I carry the hot crack filling machine at 450 degrees out on the pallet forks, its the ideal way to transport the machine while heating so I can get to work when I reach the repair areas. Saves me about 30 minutes everyday of waiting for the machine to reach temp. The machine heats while I am gathering tools and driving to the work site......Yes, I carry two large fire extinguishers on the trailer....

Now I have 4,200 sq feet of Polymeric repair material to apply but that's coming via truck freight from Eugene Oregon and likely won't be here until Friday. The Polymeric repairs have the topping sand on them.......Excellent product, but very costly compared to the mastic material.

The Polymeric repair is extremely strong and wears much, much better than other repairs. Done correctly, they will last until the road has to be replaced. Polymeric repairs are used on the most dire areas, as shown in the picture which is at the entrance to the neighborhood where the roads change from county to privately owned. There must be a vertical crack surface for the material to bind to for it to work as designed. You can see that in the way it seals the cracks in a close up.

My next project is in the background. I have to build a 30" to 48" tall boulder retaining wall where the road splits at the entrance. You can see some of the large rocks strewn across the hillside, found under the earlier Juniper's removed. More on that later..............

I have about 1,500 sq feet of Mastic Material to finish, which I hope to finish today. Applied correctly, it strengthens the pavement and slows degradation. Plus it looks better................

Here is an example of the need and finished repair with both the Polymeric material and the mastic material in the background. The cracks shown extending from the repairs are then filled with the hot rubber and the surface is ready for sealant.

The "Pink" line marks the repair areas by repair type. Pink = Polymeric, Orange = Mastic. The polymeric material designed for Alligator cracking can't be applied to pavement without the vertical cracks or it will de-laminate and become a real problem. Plus, its a waste of money..........

I know Kyle has been waiting for a "1,000 word analysis of asphalt repairs", hopefully, he's satisfied with this.......

pothole12ndview20210712.jpg
potholerep4.jpg
potholerep1.jpg
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Looks good buddy. Have you tried mixing the sand with it before application? Helps fill the cracks
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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@SulleyBear - Let's see this heater! (and bonus points for showing a fire extinguisher!)

Cool write up - It's not just Kyle waiting for your lengthy and enjoyable posts.
 

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@SulleyBear - Let's see this heater! (and bonus points for showing a fire extinguisher!)

Cool write up - It's not just Kyle waiting for your lengthy and enjoyable posts.
Sulleys been busy taking care of his neighborhood. On top of his own place being ship shape I have no doubt. He’s smarter than me and gets paid for his services while I get flipped off by old ladies. He has been dearly missed around here and I figured a little teasing might get him to come visit. His posts are by far the most informative and well thought out of our GTT community and I value them greatly
 

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'20 1025R, 120R, 54D
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Looks good buddy. Have you tried mixing the sand with it before application? Helps fill the cracks
The sand is specifically topping sand, to bond to the surface to aid in traction, etc. for bikes, walkers, etc........And when the surface cures, the topping sand is bonded to it, you can't remove much of it even with a wheel blower. Also, when you sealcoat the repairs with this material, it resembles asphalt more and makes the repairs much less noticeable through the seal coat.

You don't want the cracks filled with anything other than the polymer material, or its not nearly as strong............the manufacturer advises against using anything to fill the cracks before applying their product.......In fact, I sent them some photo's of the different repair areas and 1/3rd of the areas were not cracked severe enough to use this product. They have another product which also floats level and is designed for filling in "bird bath's" without the surface cracking..........
 

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@SulleyBear - Let's see this heater! (and bonus points for showing a fire extinguisher!)

Cool write up - It's not just Kyle waiting for your lengthy and enjoyable posts.
Here is the hot crack machine on the tractor. You can't see the large fire extinguishers on the trailer, but trust me, they are there. They are probably lying down behind the traffic cones, which I had to add another 20 of those cones this year, as I have multiple areas closed at once while the mastic cures, etc.....

I regularly catch the machine on fire using the large weed torch on the LP tank on the trailer, to open up the flow control valve and the shoe for applying the sealant. I always just let it burn itself out when using the machine as it doesn't take long and its just material burning...........

crackequip.jpg



Now, just imagine the kind of driver you have to be in order to achieve the following crack filling result..............Actually, you can't cross at certain angles or it damages the material, so they when they are this "complicated", they are done in stages. I had to finish the cracks not filled when this material cured enough, which is usually just a few minutes.

The material cures so quickly, you can drive across it in less than 20 seconds and not damage it or get it on the vehicle. Your shoes are another matter entirely, it bonds so strongly to the work boot soles, it can trip you and cause you to fall......as your boots stick to the material like its super glue............I have a dedicated pair of work boots just for working on this project each year.......I need to take a picture of the soles and post it. They feel like Herman Munster boots when walking in them the soles are so thick now.....and stiff....

Often, when I am filling a crack which is all the way across the road, I will carry "Chick Grit" with me on the machine and throw it over the filling as I lay it down. That way, the repair can be crossed immediately with a vehicle and not harm the repair or get it on the vehicle.

The chick grit is crushed cherry granite and its fine. Since chicken and birds don't have teeth, they consume the grit or larger birds larger stones, which go into their gizzards and grind up the food they eat, so they get nutrition from it. Otherwise, without the stones or the grit, the birds can starve to death. Some bird feeders actually mix in "Cherry Grit" or "cherry stone" in the winter to help keep the birds diets healthy. They have to eat rocks of different sizes, based upon their body mass to process their food and digest it.

The Chick Grit also works very well for filling larger cracks which are going to be hot rubber filled as the chick grit is angular and it packs very well and stays put in the cracks. Otherwise, they just keep consuming the rubber. The chick grit is about $8 for a 50lb bag at our local mill............It comes out of a quarry in Minnesota.........

I bet someone learned something new about their feathered friends in this post.......or maybe not. :unsure:

Cherry Stone® Poultry Grit – TCC Materials

cracksealing.jpg
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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Here is the hot crack machine....
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 couldn't help myself

The chick grit is crushed cherry granite and its fine. Since chicken and birds don't have teeth, they consume the grit or larger birds larger stones, which go into their gizzards and grind up the food they eat, so they get nutrition from it. Otherwise, without the stones or the grit, the birds can starve to death. Some bird feeders actually mix in "Cherry Grit" or "cherry stone" in the winter to help keep the birds diets healthy. They have to eat rocks of different sizes, based upon their body mass to process their food and digest it.
Absolutely learned something! Thanks!

Cool pics, great post!
 

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'20 1025R, 120R, 54D
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Installed 1.4" Bro-Tek wheel spacers.

I'll have to put some hours on them to be sure.
Mowed tonight. The ground is slick from all the rain we've had and the grass was damper than I'd like, but with more rain coming I didn't have much choice.

The spacers seemed to make the machine much more stable on the side hills. Wasn't sure 1.4" per side would be noticeable but it is (unless I'm suffering from the placebo affect).

I also got to try my new Tera Pump. The model I bought comes with 3 adapters for various gas cans and one fits my No-Spill cans perfectly. I like this model for that feature alone as the others just drop in loosely.

Pumps about as fast as I can pour from the No-Spill nozzle (2.4 gal/min) and it has an auto shut-off sensor that actually works.

I'm quite pleased with the performance on its first use.

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