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Optilube or Standyne as a second choice. The others are not even close.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 

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I have a little bit of an advantage I guess.
View attachment 796256

My hardware store/ag supplier has an entire aisle of Fill-rite products since they cater to farmers and contractors. Buddy that's in the business like you has them on their service trucks. After wanting one for years for generator gas I splurged on a 12 volt 8 GPM one. Not cheap, but using their cash discount it bested bozos online price. When I get a buried propane tank and don't need it for anything else I'll use that pump on a transfer tank for the tractor.

Great quality stuff, those Tuthill/Fillrite pumps are. Even the smallish 8gpm empties a 5 gallon can in no time.
 

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And time saved to build it. (but that's half the fun, right?)
I like to tinker and build things like this. I have a ton of projects that I have put off due to sky high wood prices. this is something i have been thinking about since i started using the crappy 5 gallon "non spill" cans. once I bought the VP cans, that changed things a lot. I saw on facebook marketplace someone selling a ball valve hose for the vp cans and it gave me the idea to make this gas can stand.
 

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I'm sure you've heard it before, but from this new guy, thanks for the solid info you've shared. Rather than fiddling with other less ideal options I was able to ultimately save money by buying once. Really do appreciate that.

As for fuel treatment for these small diesels, what do you recommend and why? If you've previously explained, my apologies for a redundant discussion. I've used the search function and it seems folks are all over the map, but I'm leaning toward Hot Shots, based largely on this comparison :
Being new, ask questions, that's how you learn................

I run Howe's year around and have NEVER had an issue. I also run the Hot Shot Diesel Extreme in every 3rd fuel jug, which I add when I place them in the order I use them in the barn, where I add the Howe's to every jug before I fill them at the truck stop. So yes, every third jug has both Howe's and Diesel Extreme in it............Overkill? Yes, but it won't hurt and I want the Howe's in all diesel and the enhanced cleaners of the Diesel Extreme (from Hot Shot) to treat the fuel system about every 15 to 20 hours of use.................

You will find people have different brand preferences. My suggestions are;

1. Most importantly, it MUST be a non alcohol based product which is not an emulsifier. Emulsifier's bind chemicals together, like diesel fuel and water. You don't want that in my opinion and if Yanmar and most diesel engines wanted their engines to burn water, they wouldn't put in a separator with filters.

2. It must be a diesel fuel ONLY product. This is why I don't use Lucas Fuel treatment in my diesel engines as they claim it works in either, which is a contrast I don't support. Most fuel treatment products for gasoline engines use alcohol as a primary active ingredient. Alcohol is VERY dry and actually damages seals and injector pump components. I used to race with Alcohol racing fuel and its a very different product than gasoline or diesel in terms of how it burns and what it does to components in the fuel system.

3. Pick a good product and stick with it. Don't jump from brand to brand as it can result in mixing an emulsifier and a de-mulsifier which simply isn't good.

4. And despite what anyone tells you, the Power Service Rescue 911 product in the red bottle is NOT a fuel treatment, its a rescue product which is an emulsifier. It even says right on the bottle, it's not a diesel fuel treatment product, but we have some who use it that way.........
 

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I live about 50 miles east of Houston. Every few years might get a dusting of snow, hard freeze (below 20F) about once a decade. When I was tractor shopping one of my questions I asked several times was what diesel additive I should use. Universally the opinion was not needed down here. But following this thread, sounds like I should be using an injector cleaner like hot shot extreme?
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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I live about 50 miles east of Houston. Every few years might get a dusting of snow, hard freeze (below 20F) about once a decade. When I was tractor shopping one of my questions I asked several times was what diesel additive I should use. Universally the opinion was not needed down here. But following this thread, sounds like I should be using an injector cleaner like hot shot extreme?
I'm no expert, but many people recommend using a treatment year round for the added lubrication it provides. Based on what I've read, the new EPA friendly ULSD 15PPM sulfur diesel doesn't have the same properties as diesel of the past. This ULSD is what lubricates the injection pump. I'd guess it's akin to running a 2cycle engine with 100:1 gas/oil, when the engine wants 40:1. is it going to fail immediately, not likely, will it wear faster than it should, most likely. Does running it hurt the engine, nope, just the wallet. Depending on the product, I use Howes, it's about $17 to treat 300 gallons (or just a bit over 5 cents a gallon or $0.28 a 1025R tank.)
 

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My 2012 1026R has been in Wisconsin its entire life. Nothing but diesel fuel. No additives, stabilizers, treatments or others ever used. It always starts and runs great. Same with all of the gas engines in everything that I own now or ever have owned.
 

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I didn't do a thing today but yesterday I mowed, so I hope that helps. While mowing I stopped to take pics of the tree limb that I now have to use my tractor so I can take care of it. That's not happening today but I thought I'd post the pics.
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In the pic above is where I thought it would break. Probably still will if I don't cut it down first.
 

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So sad to see.

We have two silver maples that I'm constantly watching and trimming where I think it makes sense. Our landscape guy advised me to cut off one side of one of the trees to keep it from splitting in half. Instead I've trimmed out excess weight limbs on both sides and it's filling out nice and symmetrical with no sign of stress to either side. A lot of trees benefit from thinning. If a limb is redundant with another or growing in the wrong direction, I remove it. All of our lawn trees get inspected and adjusted frequently.
 

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'20 1025R, 120R, 54D
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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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Two can play this game! ;)

When I grow up I wanna be just like @Kbar! :cool:
Thank you for literally making me laugh out loud!!

I cut the Inlaws neighbors - enjoyed a stick on the ride to/from, then put on the front weights, the 3pt/iMatch and the MCS. Got ambitious and corrected the "twist" in my top link hoses so they sit nicely in the rear outlets and finally put on the KBOH chain box. I've been concerned that it would interfere with the MCS battery box, but... it's just barely enough room. Another positive about filling it with 20' of 5/16th chain and a chain shortener - Additional ballast on the opposite side of the little Yanmar- which helps.
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For those that are curious about hydraulic fluid temps - Ambient temps of 82° - "Commuting" in to a headwind WOT, H gear, just a mower deck (60D) on the tractor - Peaked at just over 165°. While cutting, no wind (shielded by trees/house), peaked at just over 190°. Cutting with a light breeze available basically static at 190°.
Commute home, tail wind - cooled to around 180° after 3.2 miles. Finally, low idle for about 15 min (putting the weights, 3pt and MCS on) brought it down to ~130°. Looking forward to Cutting tomorrow with the MCS and extra ~1k lbs on it and see where the temps are. (Front ballast 308lbs, MCS 450 or so and when full of clippings - 250-300lbs).
 

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That’s funny right there Mark
 

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Thank you for literally making me laugh out loud!!

I cut the Inlaws neighbors - enjoyed a stick on the ride to/from, then put on the front weights, the 3pt/iMatch and the MCS. Got ambitious and corrected the "twist" in my top link hoses so they sit nicely in the rear outlets and finally put on the KBOH chain box. I've been concerned that it would interfere with the MCS battery box, but... it's just barely enough room. Another positive about filling it with 20' of 5/16th chain and a chain shortener - Additional ballast on the opposite side of the little Yanmar- which helps.
View attachment 796437

View attachment 796438

For those that are curious about hydraulic fluid temps - Ambient temps of 82° - "Commuting" in to a headwind WOT, H gear, just a mower deck (60D) on the tractor - Peaked at just over 165°. While cutting, no wind (shielded by trees/house), peaked at just over 190°. Cutting with a light breeze available basically static at 190°.
Commute home, tail wind - cooled to around 180° after 3.2 miles. Finally, low idle for about 15 min (putting the weights, 3pt and MCS on) brought it down to ~130°. Looking forward to Cutting tomorrow with the MCS and extra ~1k lbs on it and see where the temps are. (Front ballast 308lbs, MCS 450 or so and when full of clippings - 250-300lbs).
Thanks for the hydraulic oil temps info - interesting 🤨
I still want to install one on mine. I have the gauge but just haven't gotten around to it
 

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Two can play this game! ;)

When I grow up I wanna be just like @Kbar! :cool:

View attachment 796430
All fun and games aside that fuel tank and pump are a bane at times because I’m here twice a day sometimes and the big iron is hungry all the time
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I gotta get up a lot earlier than everyone else to get fuel which can be sometimes 1/2 hr outta the way. Sometimes I’ll make 2 fuel runs before the crew shows up at 7 on remote sites
 

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'20 1025R, 120R, 54D
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All fun and games aside that fuel tank and pump are a bane at times because I’m here twice a day sometimes and the big iron is hungry all the time
View attachment 796524 I gotta get up a lot earlier than everyone else to get fuel which can be sometimes 1/2 hr outta the way. Sometimes I’ll make 2 fuel runs before the crew shows up at 7 on remote sites
That's why you make the big bucks! ;)
 
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