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I somehow had one ripped off (and lost) yesterday. When I remove the bucket I have just been letting them dangle, obviously this was the wrong decision.
 

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I somehow had one ripped off (and lost) yesterday. When I remove the bucket I have just been letting them dangle, obviously this was the wrong decision.
This is another case where the loader operator's manual is your friend...

Detach Bucket or Attachment



  1. W27066-UN-11SEP15

    W27171-UN-10DEC15
    A - Quick-Lock Pin
    B - Storage Position
    C - Hook
    D - Holder
    E - Holder Strap
    F - Bucket Pin
    Procedure is the same for all attachments. Bucket attachment shown.Start engine.
    [HR][/HR]
  2. Release parking brake and place transmission in NEUTRAL.
  3. Retract bucket cylinders and raise boom 460 mm (18 in) above the ground.
  4. Engage tractor parking brake and place transmission in PARK. Shut off engine and remove key.
  5. Remove quick-lock pin (A) from each side of bucket.
  6. Store pins in storage position (B).
  7. Start engine.
  8. Extend bucket cylinders until the pin (F) releases from holder strap (E) on each side of bucket.
  9. Lower loader boom, place transmission in REVERSE and move away from bucket. Holder (D) releases from hook (C) on each side of bucket.
 

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I dont leave them loose for long. Either my bucket is on, or the forks. If I dont want either on there, I remove the whole loader.

Honest question, when would you want the loader on, but nothing attached to it?
 

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I dont leave them loose for long. Either my bucket is on, or the forks. If I dont want either on there, I remove the whole loader.
That's all it takes. If dangling they can get torn off when removing or attaching the bucket.

Honest question, when would you want the loader on, but nothing attached to it?
I have seen a lot of folks remove the bucket when mowing. I have also seen the bucket removed in certain transporting situations.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I dont leave them loose for long. Either my bucket is on, or the forks. If I dont want either on there, I remove the whole loader.

Honest question, when would you want the loader on, but nothing attached to it?
When the dealer came out to give me some "how-to's", he removed the entire loader except for disconnecting the hoses, but then we spent nearly an hour trying to get it re-attached, eventually he drove it into a small tree and it finally aligned.

So I have been terrified of removing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is another case where the loader operator's manual is your friend...

Detach Bucket or Attachment



  1. W27066-UN-11SEP15

    W27171-UN-10DEC15
    A - Quick-Lock Pin
    B - Storage Position
    C - Hook
    D - Holder
    E - Holder Strap
    F - Bucket Pin
    Procedure is the same for all attachments. Bucket attachment shown.Start engine.
    [HR][/HR]
  2. Release parking brake and place transmission in NEUTRAL.
  3. Retract bucket cylinders and raise boom 460 mm (18 in) above the ground.
  4. Engage tractor parking brake and place transmission in PARK. Shut off engine and remove key.
  5. Remove quick-lock pin (A) from each side of bucket.
  6. Store pins in storage position (B).
  7. Start engine.
  8. Extend bucket cylinders until the pin (F) releases from holder strap (E) on each side of bucket.
  9. Lower loader boom, place transmission in REVERSE and move away from bucket. Holder (D) releases from hook (C) on each side of bucket.
Thank you, I never noticed there was a spot for it!
 

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I dont leave them loose for long. Either my bucket is on, or the forks. If I dont want either on there, I remove the whole loader.

Honest question, when would you want the loader on, but nothing attached to it?
I often times remove the bucket when I'm brush hogging.
 

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Don't feel bad you are not the first one to knock these pins off. your loader should come off easy nothing to be afraid about any problems see your dealer, it might have a setup problem.. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Don't feel bad you are not the first one to knock these pins off. your loader should come off easy nothing to be afraid about any problems see your dealer, it might have a setup problem.. good luck
Is that something that's included in the warranty? Because my deck wont come off either, when its lowered all the way it still sits off the ground enough to prevent me from moving the bar/lock underneath.
 

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Is that something that's included in the warranty? Because my deck wont come off either, when its lowered all the way it still sits off the ground enough to prevent me from moving the bar/lock underneath.
Have you tried tilting the bucket about 20-degrees or so in the dump position? That should give you more lift height.
 

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When the dealer came out to give me some "how-to's", he removed the entire loader except for disconnecting the hoses, but then we spent nearly an hour trying to get it re-attached, eventually he drove it into a small tree and it finally aligned.

So I have been terrified of removing it.
I wouldn't be terrified, I never got the how too demo, I read the manual and just went for it. Had your delivery guy actually disconnected the lines and backed all the way out he could have set himself up better by allowing a nice straight shot in. It always shoves a little off to one side when disconnecting (at least mine does this) because the right side hydraulics work a little quicker than the left due to the fact that they receive fluid first.
 

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I dont leave them loose for long. Either my bucket is on, or the forks. If I dont want either on there, I remove the whole loader.

Honest question, when would you want the loader on, but nothing attached to it?
Any time you need a bit of ballast weight up front, but are working in confined spaces.

I often remove the bucket/forks when tilling other gardens as I need the weight to offset the tiller, but am often limited by fences/trees/buildings in size.
 

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Glad I asked. You dont know what you dont know!


I sure wouldnt be worried about taking the loader off. I never got the demo either, and the only thing I "messed up" on was not raising it far enough on the parking stand to release the locks.
It wasnt an issue for me, as I was just taking it off to learn how to do it, but next time Ill know!
The best way Ive found to get it to lock in easily is to get everything lined up then lower it into position until it actually lifts the front of the tractor.
Now, I havent done it all that much, so there may be a flaw in my way that Ill find down the road...
 

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When the dealer came out to give me some "how-to's", he removed the entire loader except for disconnecting the hoses, but then we spent nearly an hour trying to get it re-attached, eventually he drove it into a small tree and it finally aligned.

So I have been terrified of removing it.
Understandable, especially after the "example you have been given"........

But not to worry, it's really very easy. Your dealer should have unhooked it correctly and he would have had no problems as Pat said, he would have had to drive back up to it. Banging into a tree after an hour would have scared the heck out of me also. Normally, you bang into trees to either push them over or in error, not as part of the implement attachment and alignment process......I must have missed that in the loader manual.:laugh:

Your warranty should definitely cover such setup and operational issues. The one thing to be careful about when you do unhook the loader for the first time, take a picture of your hydraulic lines right at the connection ports by the foot platform as I have seen many people hook the loader back up and attach the hoses and have them at odd angles with the couplings, etc which can put a strain on the actual connection and make it harder to attach and unhook.

Also, attach the hoses furthest under the tractor first and then the pair on the outside as it's easier than trying to work around the couplings on the outside of the connections. Take a picture of the actual hose connections so you can see how the hoses are pointed and angled. You don't want to put any unneeded pressure on the hose connections.

If you are dropping the loader someplace where you may want to move it, you can also set the loader bucket and the stand on dolly carts for moving furniture, etc. That way you can push the loader around on the concrete floor and store it out of the way. This is how I store my loader in the winter months as I rarely use the loader in the winter, except if I need to stack snow piles.

Never hesitate to ask anyone here on GTT for help or advice, there are a bunch of great people on GTT and then a few of the rest of us.....:laugh::lol:
 

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The best way Ive found to get it to lock in easily is to get everything lined up then lower it into position until it actually lifts the front of the tractor. Now, I havent done it all that much, so there may be a flaw in my way that Ill find down the road...
The loader operator's manual has a detailed step-by-step procedure for removing and attaching the loader.
 

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Here's the part number OP :laugh:

-PpuHReoiNAnKOT1r8nXsM1px2RKwuYN7rABo0wcNfyajNEnD-KZ7VToUu4pbesNhFePKUQnXRP_HPXeFgcIC6ZQrphBlp-X.jpg

(Amazing how I just happened to have that # handy, huh?)


I dont leave them loose for long. Either my bucket is on, or the forks. If I dont want either on there, I remove the whole loader.

Honest question, when would you want the loader on, but nothing attached to it?
Front ballast without the extra length. Do it all of the time.

lXxn85UwOUywemQLgS68D0p7MsV44SzlfTJ2DKSGQNh-HZI8ZvPgmnhSpOnhSckeos_Fd0nD_xPrjbbtYnD9uyq_RaK83Un8.jpg
 

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The loader operator's manual has a detailed step-by-step procedure for removing and attaching the loader.
Get out of here with that manual nonsense! We dont need no stinking manual!



On a serious note, it is certainly very helpful to read it.
 

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Is that something that's included in the warranty? Because my deck wont come off either, when its lowered all the way it still sits off the ground enough to prevent me from moving the bar/lock underneath.
Are you putting the mower height dial in the install position?


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